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Old 11-23-2012, 07:18 PM   #6361
DirtJack
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Location: San Antonio, Texas
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No one mentioned that 2012's are 690 cc while earlier models are 654 cc (except for some SM models).
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Old 11-23-2012, 11:33 PM   #6362
rickypanecatyl
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Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hizzo3 View Post
Well I will debate your white LED's not being up to par with HID in CRI index.

In terms of your hid note though, Retro solution makes a multi watt mode ballast.


Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

http://retro-solutions.net/product-i...ST-pid674.html

Interesting... I haven't seen those before.

No question on average the CRI in HID's is higher than LED's... though the newer high CRI LED's are higher than the lowest HID's.
Many people confuse color temp usually measured in Kelvins with CRI - color rendition index. For light color 3000K is yellowish - good for fog lights, 4000 close to many halogens (lower K when underpowered), 4,500-6000 close to natural sunlight, 7000 looks purpleish.
CRI and Kelvin are not the same thing at all though in the past lower K lights often had higher CRI. It's higher CRI that helps you discern different colors, see the 3D effect of sand dune against sand dune or mogul against mogul when you are skiing.

The recent advancement in LED's has been not only the size of the emitors, but the lumens (total light shinning) per watt increasing greatly over halogens. Where it used to be 2X XML U3s at 2.5 amps are putting out well over 100 lumens per watt "out the front" vs halogens doing 15ish. However, those particular LED's are almost as low as 60-65 on the CRI index vs 100 for halogen. LED's in the 90 CRI range though are now doubling lumens per watt over Halogen. More important though is the reflector.

Sorry for the rant - I just rode 250 miles in the rain in the dark with the stock "R" headlamp and I have never seen anything so pathetic as that. The only good thing I can think to say about it is, if you look directly into the light while it's on to try and ascertain if the filament is broken and that's why it's not working, you won't hurt your eyes!
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:29 AM   #6363
blueillusion10
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Joined: Oct 2004
Location: canada
Oddometer: 103
Question water pump questions

Has anyone replaced the water pump/impeller shaft? My seals got pushed in to far and rubbed against the wall/bearing? that's at the engine side of the shaft. It;s now got noticeable wear to it where the seal has been rubbing on it. seal had some of the rubber pealed off the back. I can now see a small space between the wall/bearing and the case?. approx 1mm. is that space normal? the shaft has some play as well. cant find a spec as to what is normal.

Thanks for any input.
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:45 AM   #6364
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Anyone out there in 690 land have a spare owner's manual or one I could borrow and copy?

Mine is somewhere near Mosquito Pass....

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...59&postcount=1

PM me if you can help
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:56 AM   #6365
RoninMoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hosebag View Post
Anyone out there in 690 land have a spare owner's manual or one I could borrow and copy?

Mine is somewhere near Mosquito Pass....

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...59&postcount=1

PM me if you can help
Repair manual

Lots of good stuff
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Old 11-24-2012, 02:44 PM   #6366
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In-Line Fuel Filter

New to this bike and new to fuel-injection so I'm turning to you "wise guys" for advice and/or input. I realize many are switching to the metal Napa filter and I will probably do the same. That said...

How much benefit would a secondary, in-line filter like this be?
http://justgastanks.com/product_info...oducts_id=2511
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Old 11-24-2012, 03:17 PM   #6367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buzztail View Post
Mini, How far with testing are you willing to go? Drop it in a some fuel and attach a pressure gauge... About all you can do. Other than power it up and see that it spins up every time. After that you'll need to get technicial to trouble shoot it any deeper.

I spent the last couple of weeks building this high-tech test rig and clean room to test out the fuel pump. You may be able to see what I think is the issue in this video.

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Old 11-24-2012, 03:26 PM   #6368
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mini Trail View Post
I spent the last couple of weeks building this high-tech test rig and clean room to test out the fuel pump. You may be able to see what I think is the issue in this video.

I think you found the problem.
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Old 11-24-2012, 03:29 PM   #6369
Mudguts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modeselector View Post
New to this bike and new to fuel-injection so I'm turning to you "wise guys" for advice and/or input. I realize many are switching to the metal Napa filter and I will probably do the same. That said...

How much benefit would a secondary, in-line filter like this be?
http://justgastanks.com/product_info...oducts_id=2511
I,d go the golan , keep away from glass to much vibration IMO I will remove my internal filter and use a external filter , either a golan or a disposable



http://www.golanproducts.com/filters.html
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Old 11-24-2012, 03:57 PM   #6370
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I've been using the WIX 33012 and it seems to be working and as I recall, 21 Microns. 5/16 barb and $4, fits in the quick disconnect location pretty well.

Any forum thoughts?
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:05 PM   #6371
RoninMoto
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I added an extra loop of fuel line to get the filter out of the way of the air box. I am currently running a WIX (i think) universal plastic filter. It is visible from the side of the bike which is nice.

Sorry about the bad picture. I will try to get a better one up here soon if you guys want.
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:07 PM   #6372
crankshaft OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoninMoto View Post
I added an extra loop of fuel line to get the filter out of the way of the air box. I am currently running a WIX (i think) universal plastic filter. It is visible from the side of the bike which is nice.

Sorry about the bad picture. I will try to get a better one up here soon if you guys want.
Do you know what the micron rating is by chance? DO we really need 10 micron?
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:14 PM   #6373
RoninMoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crankshaft View Post
Do you know what the micron rating is by chance? DO we really need 10 micron?
I'll know when I look at the part number tomorrow and google it. My bike is locked up tight and tucked in for the night.. and its 1:00 am.

In Portugal the "95" (US 87 equivalent) was a dark color, almost black. The "98" (US 89 I think) was a nice blue. Almost like it had 2 stroke oil. I'm not sure if they add dye to it? Anyway, my filter is black now from 2 tanks of fuel from Portugal. No problems with the bike running but I will keep you updated.
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:26 PM   #6374
Mudguts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoninMoto View Post
I added an extra loop of fuel line to get the filter out of the way of the air box. I am currently running a WIX (i think) universal plastic filter. It is visible from the side of the bike which is nice.

Sorry about the bad picture. I will try to get a better one up here soon if you guys want.

Exactly what I will do , but use a golan or disposable car filter , 20 - 25 micron , 10 will block as with the EXC injector filters , we had a recall to swap out to 20 .

I will make it quick and easy to change . There is plenty o reusable filters on the market , earls do some rocket industries do some.

Mudguts screwed with this post 11-24-2012 at 04:31 PM
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:32 PM   #6375
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If you skip the internal filter, how do you connect the fuel lines? They took out a few feet of (crimped) fuel line when my pump was replaced, but the filter is close to the other end. Where do you get the little clamps?
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