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Old 02-01-2013, 06:10 AM   #7006
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shipwrek12001 View Post
thanks all for your input about water pumps


Seth, when you say yours failed, what failed on the water pump, and why do you think it failed.
The inner water pump seal failed. The coolant filled the oil chamber and the bike overheated. It was during a race...as a result the headgasket also failed. However I did not realize that the headgasket had failed until I replaced the water pump seals. When I fixed the pump seals I could see clear signs of coolant leaking past the inner seal (oil/water barrier) along the shaft.

it took 4 oil changes in rapid succession to clean all the contaminated oil out of the engine. The first batch of fresh oil turned instantly to a milkshake....so I drained it and filled with used oil...ran for a couple of minutes and then drained...refilled with used oil and repeated until the oil drained out clean.
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Old 02-01-2013, 06:14 AM   #7007
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dotbond View Post
Are you able to give me some guidance on how to soften up the compression damping on the front forks? There is a suspension guy in NZ but he hasn't really had much to do with 690's and in particular the 2012 model. I told him my problem of the front bouncing off bumps and rocks while trailriding ( I weigh 78kg in my birthday suit) and he said to unscrew the base valve from the bottom of the forks and send them up to him and he would replace the 0.15 shims with 0.10 shims. Does this sound right?

I'll pay you for your advise and buy the parts from you if necessary ktmmitch!!

Cheers
Trev
Easiest way to fix the 690 suspension is to pull it off the bike and throw in in the dumpster and then invest in some good stuff. I have a reworked set on my bike and though it is vastly better than stock it still doesn't feel as good as some of the older 525's and a 640 adventure I have ridden with well setup suspension.
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Old 02-01-2013, 06:57 AM   #7008
Bruno T .
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ktmmitch View Post
New Billet Clutch & Brake levers to suit KTM 690 Enduro,these have been specifically designed for these models by Rally-Raid Products,as the EXC clutch lever,whilst similar looking,will not actuate the clutch switch,so not giving full power.
Huh ?

The factory clutch lever has a cast in boss which depresses the clutch switch when the lever is pulled in to allow the m/c to be started in gear [provided the side stand is up].

Aftermarket lever replacements, such as Motion pro, which don't have that boss will result in nothing more than the clutch switch not being depressed when the lever is pulled in, therefore not allowing the m/c to be started when in gear.
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Old 02-01-2013, 07:37 AM   #7009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
Easiest way to fix the 690 suspension is to pull it off the bike and throw in in the dumpster and then invest in some good stuff. I have a reworked set on my bike and though it is vastly better than stock it still doesn't feel as good as some of the older 525's and a 640 adventure I have ridden with well setup suspension.
Actually, the stock reworked suspension works really well when you put 17" wheels and sticky tires on them.
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:27 AM   #7010
Bruno T .
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Originally Posted by Dotbond View Post
I have been recommended to take out the base valve stack and replace the 0.15 shims with 0.10 shims.
That's what i ended up with on my 10, but only the larger diam ones, not all of them. Removed the small backer too. It's certainly not the same as springing for closed chambers, but it doesn't deflect like it used to.

I'd pull the stack and measure it up as a 12 might be different.
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:05 AM   #7011
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruno T . View Post
Huh ?

The factory clutch lever has a cast in boss which depresses the clutch switch when the lever is pulled in to allow the m/c to be started in gear [provided the side stand is up].

Aftermarket lever replacements, such as Motion pro, which don't have that boss will result in nothing more than the clutch switch not being depressed when the lever is pulled in, therefore not allowing the m/c to be started when in gear.
this is true. And it is a major pain in the ass having to start the bike in neutral every time. Disconnecting the clutch switch and shorting it out will result in poor running and less power though
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:16 AM   #7012
Bruno T .
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
Disconnecting the clutch switch and shorting it out will result in poor running and less power though
Indeed.

Oh, so what he was saying is that if you were to install a non OE lever, and short the switch to get around not having to be in neutral to start the m/c, that would result in less power.

Makes sense. Thanks for clarifying, Seth.
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:31 AM   #7013
Baja Dad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
this is true. And it is a major pain in the ass having to start the bike in neutral every time. Disconnecting the clutch switch and shorting it out will result in poor running and less power though

WHY ???
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:32 AM   #7014
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baja Dad View Post
WHY ???
Because neutral is a bitch to find on the bike.
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Old 02-01-2013, 10:06 AM   #7015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baja Dad View Post
WHY ???
I assume you mean why the power loss . .

Good question.

atom7 confirmed it by rigging a switch that he could toggle on and off - here.

I wonder if the clutch switch simply activates the neutral throttle map. If that's the case, it'd be easy to modify that map [mine already is].

I need to rig up a similar switch and do some testing.
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Old 02-01-2013, 10:11 AM   #7016
dad2bike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruno T . View Post
I assume you mean why the power loss . .

Good question.

atom7 confirmed it by rigging a switch that he could toggle on and off - here.

I wonder if the clutch switch simply activates the neutral throttle map. If that's the case, it'd be easy to modify that map [mine already is].

I need to rig up a similar switch and do some testing.
Yes. Please do.
I found that switch a PITA on my 950A and simply jumpered it. I surely would want to do the same on this bike.
Please tell us where in the map to turn it off as well.
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Old 02-01-2013, 10:23 AM   #7017
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Because neutral is a bitch to find on the bike.
Its also a pain if you are racing...or riding in traffic or someplace inconvenient to have to drop down to neutral and start the bike.

In australia we had problems with an aftermarket brake lever as it did not hit the switch properly and thus required neutral to start. So we cut the switch wires and shorted them together. I ran the prologue of the Safari with it this way and the bike stalled left and right, was way down on power, and generally ran like crap. After that we reconnected the switch and I ran my "modified" stock clutch lever and it was back to normal. The clutch switch does something to the efi on the stock system...what exactly I do not know but it does run like poo
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Old 02-01-2013, 11:07 AM   #7018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
Its also a pain if you are racing...or riding in traffic or someplace inconvenient to have to drop down to neutral and start the bike.

In australia we had problems with an aftermarket brake lever as it did not hit the switch properly and thus required neutral to start. So we cut the switch wires and shorted them together. I ran the prologue of the Safari with it this way and the bike stalled left and right, was way down on power, and generally ran like crap. After that we reconnected the switch and I ran my "modified" stock clutch lever and it was back to normal. The clutch switch does something to the efi on the stock system...what exactly I do not know but it does run like poo
This is yet another topic which was discussed/explained several times on the old mega thread which is now lost. Don't know if I can remember all the details or not, but the Kehein ECU has logic (to save fuel/emissions) which cuts off fueling if the motor is in gear and above a certain rpm and the clutch is not pulled, when the throttle is closed, knowing the motor will restart when the throttle is opened. If these conditions are not met, then the idle map must be used to keep the motor running. If the ECU thinks the clutch is always pulled, then the idle map gets used in situations it should not be.

I don't think anyone had solved this problem while disabling the clutch switch.
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Old 02-01-2013, 12:24 PM   #7019
Dotbond
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swap View Post
i'm not realy happy whith ride comfort for the long travel track
i did'nt try to modify setting of fork and rear schock after 12 000 km yet
it's realy urgent for me now (my back is not happy)
Well, at least you are a lot closer to the UK and Rally Raid Products than I am ( New Zealand ) to get your suspension to them to sort out for you.
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Old 02-01-2013, 01:06 PM   #7020
Chris 690R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
Unlike 2012 there will be no adventure model offered in 2013
Man why don't they produce a true adventure version of the 690?????????

Because it will effect the sales of the 990 of course!!!!!!

I need a proper screen and dash for my 690, but don't want to spend $3k to do it!

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