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Old 02-18-2013, 05:07 AM   #7321
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dad2bike View Post
Hmm, not sure if I noticed.
Another development:

I decided to ditch the previous owners oils and put in my own with new filters.
I found that the PO was running scotts filters. Really tough to get out. Apparently too tough for him. This was what I found for the small filter.

The oil was clean. I thought it was rather thin. Even thinner than the T-6 I use.
Oils changed and fresh filters in. I'll get out for a spin tomorrow to see how she shifts.

I ran the Scotts stainless filters for a little while. I found that the filter on one side came out easy enough but it took an act of god to the get the other one out. The first time I did an oil change with it I made a tool to grip that little indented area...I had to pull on the filter so hard that I pulled the bike over on top of me...great night that was. Anyways I quickly ditched that one filter. I think I might have 1 stainless and 1 paper in there...or I just went back to paper given how inexpensive they are.
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:24 AM   #7322
dad2bike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
I ran the Scotts stainless filters for a little while. I found that the filter on one side came out easy enough but it took an act of god to the get the other one out. The first time I did an oil change with it I made a tool to grip that little indented area...I had to pull on the filter so hard that I pulled the bike over on top of me...great night that was. Anyways I quickly ditched that one filter. I think I might have 1 stainless and 1 paper in there...or I just went back to paper given how inexpensive they are.
Mine tried to come over on me while pulling this one too. I do run the scott in my 950A. That is due to the water pump issue. I even have a set of scott I had bought to start using in my RFS bikes. Then like you figured they are inexpensive. Stick with the Hi-Flo ones. I now have three bikes that run them. I guess it's time buy by the case.
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Old 02-18-2013, 06:06 AM   #7323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrHix View Post
That is not the "new" style. This is the new one:



The handguard bolts only thread into the first 1" of the outer end.

Cheers,

MrHix
The website indicates having to chop off the first 1" of bar. I run about 1/2" of spacer out to my cycra's now. I'm thinking I could just use these on the end. Have really good clearance from my lever ends.
They are local to us. I'm hoping they are open today. I can swing by and talk with Don. I've got 4 bikes to fit if they prove out good on the Ginger.
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:09 AM   #7324
MrHix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dad2bike View Post
The website indicates having to chop off the first 1" of bar. I run about 1/2" of spacer out to my cycra's now. I'm thinking I could just use these on the end. Have really good clearance from my lever ends.
They are local to us. I'm hoping they are open today. I can swing by and talk with Don. I've got 4 bikes to fit if they prove out good on the Ginger.
Yup,

Just have to slide the grips further onto the bars to leave the 1/2". Only drawback might be that it is easier to get grit under the throttle tube? Maybe not.

Cheers,

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Old 02-18-2013, 01:53 PM   #7325
dazler
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Hi I tought all KTM were high maintenance wise, so I overlook this one.
I been reading and found that some people say the 2012 have some issues how hard are they to resolve. is the 2013 the same?

separated the throttle body from the motor
bad tank bolts
pivot bolts
radiator fan shroud and blades wearing into radiator quickly
leaking coolant on metal pump face thingo
stalling at idle at lights,ecu fuel tuning etc
polycarbonate sub frame ?
rubber fuel or coolant? hose needs to be zip tied to frame to avoid wear

How long it takes to change oil/filter?
also what is the alternator rated at?
Thanks!
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:14 PM   #7326
MrHix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dazler View Post
Hi I tought all KTM were high maintenance wise, so I overlook this one.
I been reading and found that some people say the 2012 have some issues how hard are they to resolve. is the 2013 the same?

separated the throttle body from the motor
bad tank bolts
pivot bolts
radiator fan shroud and blades wearing into radiator quickly
leaking coolant on metal pump face thingo
stalling at idle at lights,ecu fuel tuning etc
polycarbonate sub frame ?
rubber fuel or coolant? hose needs to be zip tied to frame to avoid wear

How long it takes to change oil/filter?
also what is the alternator rated at?
Thanks!
I've only got about 1500 miles on my '12, but have had no problems. I did change the lower tank mount to a through bolt, but it only cost me about $2. I just did it because I could do it easily & cheaply, not because anything broke.

Oil & filter change only takes 20 minutes or so.

Alternator puts out 224 watts (according to the service manual).

Not all the 690s are falling apart!

MrHix
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:26 PM   #7327
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dazler View Post
Hi I tought all KTM were high maintenance wise, so I overlook this one.
I been reading and found that some people say the 2012 have some issues how hard are they to resolve. is the 2013 the same?

separated the throttle body from the motor
bad tank bolts
pivot bolts
radiator fan shroud and blades wearing into radiator quickly
leaking coolant on metal pump face thingo
stalling at idle at lights,ecu fuel tuning etc
polycarbonate sub frame ?
rubber fuel or coolant? hose needs to be zip tied to frame to avoid wear

How long it takes to change oil/filter?
also what is the alternator rated at?
Thanks!
So these are all well documented issues that have simple solutions know to the 690 crowd since about mid 08. Unfortunately every bike has its issues.

My 08 has about 12 rally motos on it, a hill climb, one endurance rally lots of trail riding and about 10000 miles on the clock.

I zip tied the rad guard on
replaced the clutch slave
Custom mapped the ecu
Insulated the fuel line
Changed air filter to foam
Changed to fmf exhaust
replaced seat
Changed upper and lower tank bolts.

My original fuel pump lasted 9500 miles and siezed due to dirty fuel in australia.
i fixed my "clouding" speedo problem but then got a new one warranteed.
Installed a different headlight.

Have done many other changes for ergo, performance, suspension etc.
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:53 PM   #7328
dad2bike
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My son TJ rode Ginger & I rode Big Orange over to Vibranator before lunch.

WOW! I can't say enough good about Don over a Virbanator/Ricor.:Pom

We did a bunch of experimenting before & after lunch at his place.

Finished results:
Big Orange now has a set of the regular Vibranators. Took my bars vibes to near nothing. Man I wish I had done this long ago.

Ginger started with the regular units. I rode her around the parking lot and still noticed considerable vibes.

After lunch we went back and changed up to the heavier units. Takes a huge Tap to do the end of the bars. I probably should have cut off some of the bar ends. They now stick out an inch. More clearance for the levers I guess. :p

I'm gonna say the heavy ends reduced my vibes about 70% on the 690.
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:15 PM   #7329
Hoots
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dazler View Post
Hi I tought all KTM were high maintenance wise, so I overlook this one.
I been reading and found that some people say the 2012 have some issues how hard are they to resolve. is the 2013 the same?

separated the throttle body from the motor
bad tank bolts
pivot bolts
radiator fan shroud and blades wearing into radiator quickly
leaking coolant on metal pump face thingo
stalling at idle at lights,ecu fuel tuning etc
polycarbonate sub frame ?
rubber fuel or coolant? hose needs to be zip tied to frame to avoid wear

How long it takes to change oil/filter?
also what is the alternator rated at?
Thanks!
Somebody just said that these were well-documented issues with easy fixes, but I disagree.

I have still not managed to solve the sporadically flashing oil light problem on my 2012 Enduro R - Twin Air filter seems to have cut down the incidence, but the light still flickers sometimes at low revs and at idle - oil pressure OK on test - KTM are concerned, and want to keep trying to find the issue - possibly just a buggered sensor - it's booked in for another look in a couple of weeks time - this bike is still under warranty, and has been off the road for more than half its short life ...

Great bike to ride - the Twin Air filter has given it wings - astonishing difference ...

But all my riding is out in the bush, a long way from civilisation - ie 400km or more - can't have flashing oil lights in the middle of nowhere - much as I hate to say it, at least the DR650 (with suspension and other mods) was completely dependable and completely fixable by the roadside - I sold the Husaberg recently for similar unreliability issues - twice had to leave it hidden under trees, and go back for it with a vehicle - a third time a mate left me by the roadside guarding it, and came back with the car ...

High-performance bikes are fun, but for some people they also need to be reliable ...

I'll hang onto this 690 and try to get the oil light issue fixed - after that, it will need to behave for 6 months or more before I consider it a genuine adv bike (c.f. high-specced toy) - planned run to the desert in May - you really don't want complex issues out there ...
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:32 PM   #7330
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoots View Post
Somebody just said that these were well-documented issues with easy fixes, but I disagree.

I have still not managed to solve the sporadically flashing oil light problem on my 2012 Enduro R - Twin Air filter seems to have cut down the incidence, but the light still flickers sometimes at low revs and at idle - oil pressure OK on test - KTM are concerned, and want to keep trying to find the issue - possibly just a buggered sensor - it's booked in for another look in a couple of weeks time - this bike is still under warranty, and has been off the road for more than half its short life ...

Great bike to ride - the Twin Air filter has given it wings - astonishing difference ...

But all my riding is out in the bush, a long way from civilisation - ie 400km or more - can't have flashing oil lights in the middle of nowhere - much as I hate to say it, at least the DR650 (with suspension and other mods) was completely dependable and completely fixable by the roadside - I sold the Husaberg recently for similar unreliability issues - twice had to leave it hidden under trees, and go back for it with a vehicle - a third time a mate left me by the roadside guarding it, and came back with the car ...

High-performance bikes are fun, but for some people they also need to be reliable ...

I'll hang onto this 690 and try to get the oil light issue fixed - after that, it will need to behave for 6 months or more before I consider it a genuine adv bike (c.f. high-specced toy) - planned run to the desert in May - you really don't want complex issues out there ...

I will say the stock efi, wiring harness is not so good. Wiring harness is ok at furst but no good after too short.

Flickering light should be easy to diagnose..install gage and ride. If light flickers and psi is good its electrical. Is idle set at proper spec? Proper oil filters...oil..valve cover sealed proper...vents clear etc.
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:32 PM   #7331
BygDaddee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoots View Post
Somebody just said that these were well-documented issues with easy fixes, but I disagree.
IMHO the ones in the list are well documented and easy to fix, that's what the person responded too.

You've introduced another early life random failure to the mix
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:00 PM   #7332
dunefreak
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Location: Henderson, NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dazler View Post
Hi I tought all KTM were high maintenance wise, so I overlook this one.
I been reading and found that some people say the 2012 have some issues how hard are they to resolve. is the 2013 the same?

separated the throttle body from the motor
bad tank bolts
pivot bolts
radiator fan shroud and blades wearing into radiator quickly
leaking coolant on metal pump face thingo
stalling at idle at lights,ecu fuel tuning etc
polycarbonate sub frame ?
rubber fuel or coolant? hose needs to be zip tied to frame to avoid wear

How long it takes to change oil/filter?
also what is the alternator rated at?
Thanks!

I have a 2012 with about 4500 miles on it. Not one issue yet other than a melted turn signal which I fixed by upgrading to smaller signals.

I still plan to upgrade my tank bolts. Never once had a stall that wasn't caused by myself.
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:31 PM   #7333
JustBob
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From what I understand the other fix to melted turn signal is an aftermarket can which eliminates the cat in the OEM can and thus all the heat. I pick my '10 up next week and it has this and other fixes.
Have really enjoyed this thread, learning all about my new to me 690ER.
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:01 PM   #7334
dunefreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustBob View Post
From what I understand the other fix to melted turn signal is an aftermarket can which eliminates the cat in the OEM can and thus all the heat. I pick my '10 up next week and it has this and other fixes.
Have really enjoyed this thread, learning all about my new to me 690ER.
I forgot to mention I upgraded to an FMF pipe as well.
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:58 PM   #7335
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustBob View Post
From what I understand the other fix to melted turn signal is an aftermarket can which eliminates the cat in the OEM can and thus all the heat. I pick my '10 up next week and it has this and other fixes.
Have really enjoyed this thread, learning all about my new to me 690ER.
Aftermarket can...reposition turn signal stalk...or switch turn signal model.
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My intuition nearly makes up for my lack of good judgement. Just installed my new trolling motor
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