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Old 03-10-2013, 06:57 PM   #7711
slidefighter
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: South Carolina Low Country
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I'm a new 2012 690 owner, going through this thread and slowly checking off things to do to my new wonderbike. I've been at it for days during my spare time but am still up to only page 153, so I'm asking for a little help. I see it's said to be a good idea to remove the main harness ground and sand it and the frame down for a better electrical connection to ground. I found what looks to be the grounding point on the right side of the frame just ahead of the right upper tank mount. Unlike the descriptions I've heard here, my 2012 seems to only have two relatively well insulated wires going to it and the grounding site itself seems pretty clean. It's a pain to get the bolt out of it since it screws out toward the inside and the airbox is definitely in the way, but I'll sand everything tomorrow and put it back together covered with dielectric as recommended.

Question: Is there another location that needs the same treatment that I don't know about/or haven't found yet?

Thanks!



Lee...
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Old 03-11-2013, 01:55 AM   #7712
nibby
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Joined: Feb 2009
Location: U.K.
Oddometer: 105
rally raid engine guard

Does anyone have the RR 690 Rally Engine Guard, the one with the water carrier.
Like the idea of having space low down to store tubes/tools or water if necessary.
cheers
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Old 03-11-2013, 03:25 AM   #7713
Sutherngintelmen
around the bend
 
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: ATL
Oddometer: 1,163
Too sad, RIP Beanie.
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Old 03-11-2013, 03:37 AM   #7714
MeinMotorrad
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Joined: Sep 2012
Location: In between Velez Rubio and Huercal Overa, Spain.
Oddometer: 814
Beanie

Goodbye Beaney and thank you

MeinMotorrad screwed with this post 03-11-2013 at 06:01 AM
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Old 03-11-2013, 03:41 AM   #7715
BygDaddee
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Joined: Oct 2012
Location: Brisbane Northside, OZ
Oddometer: 1,271
Quote:
Originally Posted by slidefighter View Post
I'm a new 2012 690 owner, going through this thread and slowly checking off things to do to my new wonderbike. I've been at it for days during my spare time but am still up to only page 153, so I'm asking for a little help. I see it's said to be a good idea to remove the main harness ground and sand it and the frame down for a better electrical connection to ground. I found what looks to be the grounding point on the right side of the frame just ahead of the right upper tank mount. Unlike the descriptions I've heard here, my 2012 seems to only have two relatively well insulated wires going to it and the grounding site itself seems pretty clean. It's a pain to get the bolt out of it since it screws out toward the inside and the airbox is definitely in the way, but I'll sand everything tomorrow and put it back together covered with dielectric as recommended.

Question: Is there another location that needs the same treatment that I don't know about/or haven't found yet?



Thanks!
Lee...
I've done a bit to mine

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....postcount=4082
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Old 03-11-2013, 05:32 AM   #7716
Maurizio
2 smoker
 
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Joined: May 2003
Location: Turin, Italy
Oddometer: 162
Godspeed Beaney.
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:51 AM   #7717
MrHix
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Joined: Mar 2012
Location: MO
Oddometer: 361
Quote:
Originally Posted by slidefighter View Post
I'm a new 2012 690 owner, going through this thread and slowly checking off things to do to my new wonderbike. I've been at it for days during my spare time but am still up to only page 153, so I'm asking for a little help. I see it's said to be a good idea to remove the main harness ground and sand it and the frame down for a better electrical connection to ground. I found what looks to be the grounding point on the right side of the frame just ahead of the right upper tank mount. Unlike the descriptions I've heard here, my 2012 seems to only have two relatively well insulated wires going to it and the grounding site itself seems pretty clean. It's a pain to get the bolt out of it since it screws out toward the inside and the airbox is definitely in the way, but I'll sand everything tomorrow and put it back together covered with dielectric as recommended.

Question: Is there another location that needs the same treatment that I don't know about/or haven't found yet?

Thanks!


Lee...
I have a '12 also and disconnected all the connectors I could reach and shot in some dielectric grease before I put them back together. If water gets into the plug, there shouldn't be any oxidation problems.

Have fun,

MrHix
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:11 AM   #7718
Velociraptor
TrackBum
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Location: Seattle
Oddometer: 994
Tragic news. RIP Beaney
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:38 AM   #7719
shipwrek12001
Shipwrek
 
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Ottawa
Oddometer: 2,028
Rip Beany THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP AND INPUT HERE!



So my question of the day here is, I am trying to get the fuel pump and lines replaced on the 08e....

I have the cycleworks pump, but looking for the filter and line at napa...
i read use the 3011 filter with is 1/4in then the 3095 filter which is 5/16....

what to use?

reassembling this stuff.. is it better to remove the regulator and insert both (pump and reg) pieces in at the same time? keeping the fuel filter line from kinking?
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:45 AM   #7720
RoninMoto
Wanderer
 
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Joined: May 2010
Location: Australia
Oddometer: 1,548
Quote:
Originally Posted by shipwrek12001 View Post
Rip Beany THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP AND INPUT HERE!



So my question of the day here is, I am trying to get the fuel pump and lines replaced on the 08e....

I have the cycleworks pump, but looking for the filter and line at napa...
i read use the 3011 filter with is 1/4in then the 3095 filter which is 5/16....

what to use?

reassembling this stuff.. is it better to remove the regulator and insert both (pump and reg) pieces in at the same time? keeping the fuel filter line from kinking?
On my 2010 and my 2008 I just replaced the filter with a small metal tube and relocated the filter outside the tank. When putting the pump back in the tank, you have to give it a "twist" as you are putting it in to avoid the kinking. This is how they do it from the factory.
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:55 AM   #7721
shipwrek12001
Shipwrek
 
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Ottawa
Oddometer: 2,028
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoninMoto View Post
On my 2010 and my 2008 I just replaced the filter with a small metal tube and relocated the filter outside the tank. When putting the pump back in the tank, you have to give it a "twist" as you are putting it in to avoid the kinking. This is how they do it from the factory.

thanks for the advice...

putting the filter after the reg, the regulator is not filtered gas, I would assume that it processes through more gas than the injector... would the reg not get dirty over time?
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:06 AM   #7722
Albie
Kool Aid poisoner
 
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Upstate SC
Oddometer: 8,384
Sad news. RIP Beaney.
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:14 AM   #7723
Bruno T .
N8YQ
 
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Joined: May 2006
Location: Detroit area, MI
Oddometer: 1,776
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtJack View Post
Just did a reset two days ago. For those not sure, read page 169 of the 690 shop manual.
You're wasting your time, the bs 15 min reset myth will never die.

In fact, i'm sure there are bikes all over magically resetting themselves while idling in rush hour traffic
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:47 AM   #7724
Albie
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Location: Upstate SC
Oddometer: 8,384
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruno T . View Post
You're wasting your time, the bs 15 min reset myth will never die.

In fact, i'm sure there are bikes all over magically resetting themselves while idling in rush hour traffic
Doubtful batteries are magically disconnecting in rush hour traffic to accomplish an actual reset.
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:48 AM   #7725
Noyah
poser
 
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Oddometer: 388
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruno T . View Post
You're wasting your time, the bs 15 min reset myth will never die.

In fact, i'm sure there are bikes all over magically resetting themselves while idling in rush hour traffic
O RLY?
So they put that in the manual and tell the KTM mechanics this just for fun?
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