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Old 03-11-2013, 06:28 PM   #7711
Uller
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Location: Arlington, WA
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Rest in Peace Beany. My 690 will forever have just a little bit of you (his programming) in it.

Best wishes to his loved ones.

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Old 03-11-2013, 06:37 PM   #7712
motoged
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Hmmmmmm ?????

Is that a kink I see in the fuel line by the clamps?????




If so, I would think that the sturdy Napa line would not do that in that configuration. My thinking is to use the Napa line, externalize the filter, and use Noah's "in-line splice" to compensate for deletion of internal filter. This being said with the cautionary info that the Napa line makes applying the hose clamps a challenge. I would be using a FI line clamp which is a screw clamp with rounded edges less likely to cut into line than regular worm-style screw hose clamp:

Proper clamp:



Improper clamp:




I haven't included the type of clamp that requires special tool....whatever they are called...
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:46 PM   #7713
Uller
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Hi Ged! Hope your trip went well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by motoged View Post
The Napa fuel line (and similar line w/ industry standard approval) ranges from $20-$30 a foot....the part # Uller provided is for 12 inches of line (#H209 -- 5/16” x 1’)

Question #1: Uller, it looks like you have not replaced the in-line filter in the tank and have externalized your filter....if my understanding is correct, was the 12 inches long enough to connect fuel pump assembly to regulator, and have fuel pump assembly remain in lowest position possible in tank (i.e. as in stock set-up), or did you do a "splice" as it appears Ronin did when he externalized his fuel line filter in order to meet this positioning requirement ?
I did only use (1) 1'-0" section of the submersible hose. It is more than enough.

I do have my fuel filter outside my tank in the location of the quick disconnect. I didn't route it lower like Noah or others (didn't need to add hose here) however, I can get my airbox out much quicker though.

If you hold the pump & regulator in relation to one another as they sit inside the tank; while they are out of the tank, you will understand better why 1'-0 is enough. In reality, I only used 9" of the submersible line. You need just enough to allow you to work with the hose while it is connected to the regulator and sticking out of the pump opening of the tank. I believe that the shorter the better to stop kinking. If you want you can connect the entire length to the regulator, install it and route the hose out the pump opening and then trim to desired length.

I originally left 5" of the return line still connected to the regulator and then used the remaining 3" of submersible line to connect it to the fuel pump cup cap. If this line kinks, maybe it isn't an issue????? If I were to do it over again, I would probably leave the entire return line and just use the submersible for the pump to regulator connection.

It is a challenge to get the hoses secured to the regulator body as it is designed for a thin walled hose as Baja Dad mentioned. I made it work though and it has withstood over 5,000+ miles now. I believe I sanded a little and trimmed a certain spot of the outside of the hose.
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:57 PM   #7714
scholz
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Anyone have a link to valve adjustments? I checked the 690 wiki but no pics. Thanks!
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:03 PM   #7715
shipwrek12001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoged View Post
Hmmmmmm ?????

Is that a kink I see in the fuel line by the clamps?????




If so, I would think that the sturdy Napa line would not do that in that configuration. My thinking is to use the Napa line, externalize the filter, and use Noah's "in-line splice" to compensate for deletion of internal filter. This being said with the cautionary info that the Napa line makes applying the hose clamps a challenge. I would be using a FI line clamp which is a screw clamp with rounded edges less likely to cut into line than regular worm-style screw hose clamp:

Proper clamp:



Improper clamp:




I haven't included the type of clamp that requires special tool....whatever they are called...


I let a dealer put in the fuel plate adapter for the safari tank... Thinking i'd be safer.... not..... that set up lasted a season.. even a trip to Moab..



The new pump came with the band clamps but only two, for pump and filter.

the napa 3095 filter is 5/16, the pump is 1/4, the napa h209 fuel line is 5/16 I haven't seen the reg. yet I assume it is 1/4.... I have to figure how i'll come up with the difference on the high pressure line...
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:17 PM   #7716
Velociraptor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post


Rest in Peace Beany. My 690 will forever have just a little bit of you (his programming) in it.

Best wishes to his loved ones.
Same here. I used some of his Tune ECU programming tips to get rid of the stalling issue with the stock ECU. I am running the Vortex now but my stock ECU still has his stuff in it. Terrible news........
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:31 PM   #7717
Noyah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruno T . View Post
Wrong.

Same procedure for both.

If/when you upload a new FI map via tune ecu it automatically instructs the ecu to reset the adaptations, that's why you don't need to preform that step in that case.
I missed the part about uploading TuneEcu maps. Thats good news!
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:53 PM   #7718
slidefighter
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Slowly working through my new 2012 690. Was hoping that KTM would have replaced the aluminum shock collar by now with a steel one, but no such luck (not on mine anyway if my magnet knows what it's doing...). Anyway, is that a replacement that everyone is still recommending? Looks like something of a pain to get it swapped.


Lee...
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:11 PM   #7719
TheMuffinMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slidefighter View Post
Slowly working through my new 2012 690. Was hoping that KTM would have replaced the aluminum shock collar by now with a steel one, but no such luck (not on mine anyway if my magnet knows what it's doing...). Anyway, is that a replacement that everyone is still recommending? Looks like something of a pain to get it swapped.


Lee...
Superplush offers one, it's what I have.

There's a good shock removal vid on the wiki.
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:17 PM   #7720
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
I find burning the bike to the ground does wonders for resetting the ecu
Cleans out the fuel filter too.
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Old 03-12-2013, 02:52 AM   #7721
Bill the Bong
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Location: Kalahari South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoged View Post
Hmmmmmm ?????

Is that a kink I see in the fuel line by the clamps?????


If so, I would think that the sturdy Napa line would not do that in that configuration. My thinking is to use the Napa line, externalize the filter, and use Noah's "in-line splice" to compensate for deletion of internal filter. This being said with the cautionary info that the Napa line makes applying the hose clamps a challenge. I would be using a FI line clamp which is a screw clamp with rounded edges less likely to cut into line than regular worm-style screw hose clamp:

Proper clamp:


Improper clamp:



I haven't included the type of clamp that requires special tool....whatever they are called...
This is what I used in my EVO 2 build (actually previously when I externalized my filter):



Here is a link to page 2 of my build thread showing what was done (sorry, don't know how to crop a single post). Post 38 shows this.

http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/inde...750#msg2283750

As for the correct clamps, if you use new clamps, it should not really matter too much. I've used common garden clamps on the FI system of a lot of bikes. If I'm particularly concerned, I'd use some safety wire to keep it together. Access to the KTM pump is a 10 min deal, so no real worries. On my R1150GS, it was a real mission, so I used extra care.

Before you asked, I could not get FI clamps in my town. Before you ask more, mail ordering from the USA takes 4 weeks.
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Old 03-12-2013, 03:03 AM   #7722
MeinMotorrad
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Valve adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by scholz View Post
Anyone have a link to valve adjustments? I checked the 690 wiki but no pics. Thanks!
Try this: http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/ValvesLC4.pdf
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:26 AM   #7723
Bumpaman
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Best windscreen for 2009-2011

Hi all,
Just wondering what windscreen is found to work best (least buffeting, best look and fit, etc...) with the 2009-2011 headlight mask? Maybe something new and great has come along. Thanks
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Old 03-12-2013, 06:50 AM   #7724
DirtJack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeinMotorrad View Post
This is for the old LC4 engine which had adjustable screws with lock nuts on the rockers. The current LC4 uses 10 mm shims and has a removable rocker shaft to access the shims.
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:48 AM   #7725
DirtJack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoged View Post
To keep this info flowing and clearer.....I have some observations and questions:

I have been into the tank once in order to install Safari Tank and will be in there again soon to do a filter change and maybe install my CA pump...bike has about 18,000 kms with no fuel delivery problems noted at this time.

Uller identified the Napa immersible fuel line and my research indicates that rubber injector fuel line is designed so the INTERIOR wall of line is fuel resistant while the EXTERNAL rubber wall is not. As such, the Uller-identified fuel line has the line's exterior wall made of the same fuel resistant rubber: regular FI line will expend/deteriorate when submersed in fuel over time and this will lead to fuel line deterioration and problems (there is an industry standard for such immersible fuel lines....the Napa line satisfies this standard as does the stock and some aftermarket "corrugated " fuel lines). Crankshaft recently sourced some of the corrugated fuel line....my research indicates it comes in various lengths, each length having a non-corrugated end so as to accept a clamp. It appears that the corrugated line is designed to resist kinking....and experience suggests that the immersible line is thick enough that it is highly unlikely to kink if the length of the line is not excessive.

The Napa fuel line (and similar line w/ industry standard approval) ranges from $20-$30 a foot....the part # Uller provided is for 12 inches of line (#H209 -- 5/16 x 1) a different part # is used for longer Napa fuel line "package", as it comes pre-measured and not on a spool in the back of the shop.....

So that's the poop on fuel line for use IN the tank as far as I have determined.

Question #1: Uller, it looks like you have not replaced the in-line filter in the tank and have externalized your filter....if my understanding is correct, was the 12 inches long enough to connect fuel pump assembly to regulator, and have fuel pump assembly remain in lowest position possible in tank (i.e. as in stock set-up), or did you do a "splice" as it appears Ronin did when he externalized his fuel line filter in order to meet this positioning requirement ?

#2: Crankshaft....did you purchase that aftermarket line you sourced (likely from the automotive world) and if so, what length did you buy (re: fitted line ends issue) ?

#3: Ronin, it appears that you kept the stock corrugated fuel line in the tank and simply spliced it. Any thoughts on the comments above and/or the value of replacing corrugated line with Napa type immersible line? And what about the risk of kinking line when reassembling?


Thanks folks.....
I was one who had problems with kinking the fuel line (see: FI Issues). The internal fuel line spec is J30R10 and seems to be available only in 1 ft lengths and 5/16 in size. If all you want to do is go to an external filter, I would recommend using a 1/4 in male-male adapter and crush clamps (available from Motion Pro in the correct size) to eliminate the internal filter. If you need to also replace the fuel pump with the CA Cycleworks pump, the OEM nylon line will fit the 1/4 in barbed output of the CA pump. A fuel line screw clamp can be used there for ease of replacement. You can use J30R9 (less expensive) line to plumb the external fuel filter.

The pressure regulator is close enough to the fuel pump to touch with your fingers from the fuel pump hole in the bottom of the tank, so you could shorten the lines considerably, the only issue being (with an external filter) being able to have enough slack to be able to access the clamp on the fuel pump output. The return line goes to the fuel pump housing and does not need to be disconnected when changing the fuel pump. My first CA pump now has several thousand miles on it and is working great, but I still carry a replacement kit on longer trips to remote areas just in case.



Even though my original pump stopped a number of times, it never left me in the middle of nowhere. After waiting a while, it would always re-start and often would run for hundreds of miles with out problems. I still have the original pump and someday will tear it apart to see what it looks like inside, but now I would rather ride.
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