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Old 03-11-2013, 05:00 PM   #7726
Baja Dad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoged View Post
Answered my own question with a call to Steve at IMS (the tank folks....I got it now).

Steve clarified that the hose they use in fuel tanks is simply a transfer hose that delivers the fuel from one section/compartment of the fuel tank to a separate compartment which houses the stock FI fuel pump assembly which has retained the stock fuel pump-to-regulator immersible-approved fuel line....

So..... the IMS hose is not to be used in place of fuel injection hose/line which needs to meet pressure demands (the Napa stuff is tested at 500psi).

So thanks for the link/info BajaDad.....but no go for that line for our purposes here
Sorry
I thought it would help.
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Old 03-11-2013, 05:27 PM   #7727
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baja Dad View Post
Sorry
I thought it would help.
No need for apologies....we are all trying to sort out these ideas and issues....and close up some issues with definitive solutions that we can all apply.

I am far from being a good mechanic, but have certainly benefited from the guys here that know their stuff....and the others that, like me, learn from others as well as trial and error.
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:00 PM   #7728
shipwrek12001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoged View Post
but have certainly benefited from the guys here that know their stuff....and the others that, like me, learn from others as well as trial and error.
+1 on learning from others...

pulled my fuel pump yesterday, I have the filter, pump, I get the line from napa tomorrow...




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Old 03-11-2013, 06:28 PM   #7729
Uller
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Rest in Peace Beany. My 690 will forever have just a little bit of you (his programming) in it.

Best wishes to his loved ones.

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Old 03-11-2013, 06:37 PM   #7730
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Hmmmmmm ?????

Is that a kink I see in the fuel line by the clamps?????




If so, I would think that the sturdy Napa line would not do that in that configuration. My thinking is to use the Napa line, externalize the filter, and use Noah's "in-line splice" to compensate for deletion of internal filter. This being said with the cautionary info that the Napa line makes applying the hose clamps a challenge. I would be using a FI line clamp which is a screw clamp with rounded edges less likely to cut into line than regular worm-style screw hose clamp:

Proper clamp:



Improper clamp:




I haven't included the type of clamp that requires special tool....whatever they are called...
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:46 PM   #7731
Uller
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Hi Ged! Hope your trip went well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by motoged View Post
The Napa fuel line (and similar line w/ industry standard approval) ranges from $20-$30 a foot....the part # Uller provided is for 12 inches of line (#H209 -- 5/16” x 1’)

Question #1: Uller, it looks like you have not replaced the in-line filter in the tank and have externalized your filter....if my understanding is correct, was the 12 inches long enough to connect fuel pump assembly to regulator, and have fuel pump assembly remain in lowest position possible in tank (i.e. as in stock set-up), or did you do a "splice" as it appears Ronin did when he externalized his fuel line filter in order to meet this positioning requirement ?
I did only use (1) 1'-0" section of the submersible hose. It is more than enough.

I do have my fuel filter outside my tank in the location of the quick disconnect. I didn't route it lower like Noah or others (didn't need to add hose here) however, I can get my airbox out much quicker though.

If you hold the pump & regulator in relation to one another as they sit inside the tank; while they are out of the tank, you will understand better why 1'-0 is enough. In reality, I only used 9" of the submersible line. You need just enough to allow you to work with the hose while it is connected to the regulator and sticking out of the pump opening of the tank. I believe that the shorter the better to stop kinking. If you want you can connect the entire length to the regulator, install it and route the hose out the pump opening and then trim to desired length.

I originally left 5" of the return line still connected to the regulator and then used the remaining 3" of submersible line to connect it to the fuel pump cup cap. If this line kinks, maybe it isn't an issue????? If I were to do it over again, I would probably leave the entire return line and just use the submersible for the pump to regulator connection.

It is a challenge to get the hoses secured to the regulator body as it is designed for a thin walled hose as Baja Dad mentioned. I made it work though and it has withstood over 5,000+ miles now. I believe I sanded a little and trimmed a certain spot of the outside of the hose.
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:57 PM   #7732
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Anyone have a link to valve adjustments? I checked the 690 wiki but no pics. Thanks!
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:03 PM   #7733
shipwrek12001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoged View Post
Hmmmmmm ?????

Is that a kink I see in the fuel line by the clamps?????




If so, I would think that the sturdy Napa line would not do that in that configuration. My thinking is to use the Napa line, externalize the filter, and use Noah's "in-line splice" to compensate for deletion of internal filter. This being said with the cautionary info that the Napa line makes applying the hose clamps a challenge. I would be using a FI line clamp which is a screw clamp with rounded edges less likely to cut into line than regular worm-style screw hose clamp:

Proper clamp:



Improper clamp:




I haven't included the type of clamp that requires special tool....whatever they are called...


I let a dealer put in the fuel plate adapter for the safari tank... Thinking i'd be safer.... not..... that set up lasted a season.. even a trip to Moab..



The new pump came with the band clamps but only two, for pump and filter.

the napa 3095 filter is 5/16, the pump is 1/4, the napa h209 fuel line is 5/16 I haven't seen the reg. yet I assume it is 1/4.... I have to figure how i'll come up with the difference on the high pressure line...
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:17 PM   #7734
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post


Rest in Peace Beany. My 690 will forever have just a little bit of you (his programming) in it.

Best wishes to his loved ones.
Same here. I used some of his Tune ECU programming tips to get rid of the stalling issue with the stock ECU. I am running the Vortex now but my stock ECU still has his stuff in it. Terrible news........
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:31 PM   #7735
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruno T . View Post
Wrong.

Same procedure for both.

If/when you upload a new FI map via tune ecu it automatically instructs the ecu to reset the adaptations, that's why you don't need to preform that step in that case.
I missed the part about uploading TuneEcu maps. Thats good news!
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:53 PM   #7736
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Slowly working through my new 2012 690. Was hoping that KTM would have replaced the aluminum shock collar by now with a steel one, but no such luck (not on mine anyway if my magnet knows what it's doing...). Anyway, is that a replacement that everyone is still recommending? Looks like something of a pain to get it swapped.


Lee...
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:11 PM   #7737
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slidefighter View Post
Slowly working through my new 2012 690. Was hoping that KTM would have replaced the aluminum shock collar by now with a steel one, but no such luck (not on mine anyway if my magnet knows what it's doing...). Anyway, is that a replacement that everyone is still recommending? Looks like something of a pain to get it swapped.


Lee...
Superplush offers one, it's what I have.

There's a good shock removal vid on the wiki.
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:17 PM   #7738
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
I find burning the bike to the ground does wonders for resetting the ecu
Cleans out the fuel filter too.
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Old 03-12-2013, 02:52 AM   #7739
Bill the Bong
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoged View Post
Hmmmmmm ?????

Is that a kink I see in the fuel line by the clamps?????


If so, I would think that the sturdy Napa line would not do that in that configuration. My thinking is to use the Napa line, externalize the filter, and use Noah's "in-line splice" to compensate for deletion of internal filter. This being said with the cautionary info that the Napa line makes applying the hose clamps a challenge. I would be using a FI line clamp which is a screw clamp with rounded edges less likely to cut into line than regular worm-style screw hose clamp:

Proper clamp:


Improper clamp:



I haven't included the type of clamp that requires special tool....whatever they are called...
This is what I used in my EVO 2 build (actually previously when I externalized my filter):



Here is a link to page 2 of my build thread showing what was done (sorry, don't know how to crop a single post). Post 38 shows this.

http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/inde...750#msg2283750

As for the correct clamps, if you use new clamps, it should not really matter too much. I've used common garden clamps on the FI system of a lot of bikes. If I'm particularly concerned, I'd use some safety wire to keep it together. Access to the KTM pump is a 10 min deal, so no real worries. On my R1150GS, it was a real mission, so I used extra care.

Before you asked, I could not get FI clamps in my town. Before you ask more, mail ordering from the USA takes 4 weeks.
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Old 03-12-2013, 03:03 AM   #7740
MeinMotorrad
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Valve adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by scholz View Post
Anyone have a link to valve adjustments? I checked the 690 wiki but no pics. Thanks!
Try this: http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/ValvesLC4.pdf
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