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Old 03-11-2013, 09:06 AM   #7726
BK.RD.RNR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruno T . View Post
You're wasting your time, the bs 15 min reset myth will never die.
That must be why my bike goes from running a little rough, to obviously much more smoothly, in the seconds just prior to me getting ready to switch the bike off while looking at my watch.
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:23 AM   #7727
CanadianX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris 690R View Post
Well blew the throttle body of my 12 690 today. First real test in the bush and it failed. Stalled numerous times also. Tore the throttle body rubber boot while trying to get it back over the lip of the manilfold. Massive backfire! I will be making them put a new rubber boot on at its first service. Got home and literally flattened the battery trying to restart it again? Also the paper filter leaves a fine mist of dust on the inside of the filter box. My 300exc foam filter never did that? Most are know issues so why does KTM simply fix theses issues and use a foam filter?????? I am a little bit annoyed!!!

Chris
Had the same issue with mine, check your TPS and ATS sensors (they look identical and are on the left and right side by the TB). One of mine took a hit from the rubber connector when it got blown off and got cracked. Warranty replaced it but if either of yours took a hit it may be why the bike is having a hard start issue right now.

I added a unifilter and a FMF Q4 pipe with a new tune, no more backfires or stalls and the pipe is waaayyyy cooler. Highly recommend these mods to avoid having to setting your dealer on fire out of frustration.
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:28 AM   #7728
Bruno T .
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It's really not that hard, research "reset adaptations".

If you do that, you will learn that the ecu must be commanded to perform that function [via tune ecu or the ktm XC-1] prior to the 15 min idle procedure.
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:41 AM   #7729
blakrj
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RIP Beaney

Really sad news about Wesley. Your contributions and help will be missed, but never forgotten. Godspeed young man!
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:57 AM   #7730
Baja Dad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BK.RD.RNR View Post
That must be why my bike goes from running a little rough, to obviously much more smoothly, in the seconds just prior to me getting ready to switch the bike off while looking at my watch.

It works for me !!!!!!
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:26 AM   #7731
Bill the Bong
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Beanie

RIP.

Will miss your balanced view on 690 Rally issues.
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:47 AM   #7732
DirtJack
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Location: San Antonio, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Doubtful batteries are magically disconnecting in rush hour traffic to accomplish an actual reset.
A battery disconnect doing a reset adaptation is a myth too. The FI adaptation data acquired during the 15 minute idle procedure is stored in non-volatile memory. If the ECU were powered up to hold this data, battery life would be affected. Nothing in the manuals about needing to do a 15 minute idle after changing a battery.
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Old 03-11-2013, 12:28 PM   #7733
Noyah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruno T . View Post
It's really not that hard, research "reset adaptations".

If you do that, you will learn that the ecu must be commanded to perform that function [via tune ecu or the ktm XC-1] prior to the 15 min idle procedure.
No thats how it works on KTM 990, not 690 rtfm
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Old 03-11-2013, 12:49 PM   #7734
motoged
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Location: Kamloops, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoninMoto View Post
On my 2010 and my 2008 I just replaced the filter with a small metal tube and relocated the filter outside the tank. When putting the pump back in the tank, you have to give it a "twist" as you are putting it in to avoid the kinking. This is how they do it from the factory.
To keep this info flowing and clearer.....I have some observations and questions:

I have been into the tank once in order to install Safari Tank and will be in there again soon to do a filter change and maybe install my CA pump...bike has about 18,000 kms with no fuel delivery problems noted at this time.

Uller identified the Napa immersible fuel line and my research indicates that rubber injector fuel line is designed so the INTERIOR wall of line is fuel resistant while the EXTERNAL rubber wall is not. As such, the Uller-identified fuel line has the line's exterior wall made of the same fuel resistant rubber: regular FI line will expend/deteriorate when submersed in fuel over time and this will lead to fuel line deterioration and problems (there is an industry standard for such immersible fuel lines....the Napa line satisfies this standard as does the stock and some aftermarket "corrugated " fuel lines). Crankshaft recently sourced some of the corrugated fuel line....my research indicates it comes in various lengths, each length having a non-corrugated end so as to accept a clamp. It appears that the corrugated line is designed to resist kinking....and experience suggests that the immersible line is thick enough that it is highly unlikely to kink if the length of the line is not excessive.

The Napa fuel line (and similar line w/ industry standard approval) ranges from $20-$30 a foot....the part # Uller provided is for 12 inches of line (#H209 -- 5/16” x 1’) a different part # is used for longer Napa fuel line "package", as it comes pre-measured and not on a spool in the back of the shop.....

So that's the poop on fuel line for use IN the tank as far as I have determined.

Question #1: Uller, it looks like you have not replaced the in-line filter in the tank and have externalized your filter....if my understanding is correct, was the 12 inches long enough to connect fuel pump assembly to regulator, and have fuel pump assembly remain in lowest position possible in tank (i.e. as in stock set-up), or did you do a "splice" as it appears Ronin did when he externalized his fuel line filter in order to meet this positioning requirement ?

#2: Crankshaft....did you purchase that aftermarket line you sourced (likely from the automotive world) and if so, what length did you buy (re: fitted line ends issue) ?

#3: Ronin, it appears that you kept the stock corrugated fuel line in the tank and simply spliced it. Any thoughts on the comments above and/or the value of replacing corrugated line with Napa type immersible line? And what about the risk of kinking line when reassembling?


Thanks folks.....
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Old 03-11-2013, 01:17 PM   #7735
dad2bike
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FWIW- I used 2 pieces of the sumbersible fuel line to remove all the plastic lines in the tank. It was a royal PITA to get clamps on. That hose is much thicker than regular hose. Very tight on the housings. Clamp placement is critical. I noticed no kinking issues. When I go to put my shock back on in the next couple weeks I'll take things out for a couple of pics. I hope that helps some.
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Old 03-11-2013, 02:19 PM   #7736
Bruno T .
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noyah View Post
No thats how it works on KTM 990, not 690
Wrong.

Same procedure for both.

If/when you upload a new FI map via tune ecu it automatically instructs the ecu to reset the adaptations, that's why you don't need to preform that step in that case.
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Old 03-11-2013, 02:24 PM   #7737
Seth S
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I find burning the bike to the ground does wonders for resetting the ecu
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Old 03-11-2013, 02:33 PM   #7738
Bruno T .
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Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
I find burning the bike to the ground does wonders for resetting the ecu
Or that . . yes.

Full reset .
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Old 03-11-2013, 02:38 PM   #7739
RoninMoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoged View Post
#3: Ronin, it appears that you kept the stock corrugated fuel line in the tank and simply spliced it. Any thoughts on the comments above and/or the value of replacing corrugated line with Napa type immersible line? And what about the risk of kinking line when reassembling?
Quote:
Originally Posted by dad2bike View Post
FWIW- I used 2 pieces of the sumbersible fuel line to remove all the plastic lines in the tank. It was a royal PITA to get clamps on. That hose is much thicker than regular hose. Very tight on the housings. Clamp placement is critical. I noticed no kinking issues. When I go to put my shock back on in the next couple weeks I'll take things out for a couple of pics. I hope that helps some.
I never had trouble with the kinking. I knew it would be problem putting the pump back in the tank so I was very careful. When ever I worked on the fuel tank, I removed it from the bike. this gives you much more space to get it wright.

I had every intention of replacing the line with some different line but as dad2bike said, it was very very difficult to get the clamps on the fuel line at the regulator. The line I had purchased would not fit with the clamps on the regulator. this is why I stayed with the stock line.

When I set up the external fuel filter on the 2008 in the UK, I knew how much of a PITA replacing the fuel line is so KTMMitch machined me an aluminum tube to replace the internal fuel filter. This is the easiest way to do it in my opinion.
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Old 03-11-2013, 02:42 PM   #7740
Baja Dad
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IMS has the IN TANK fuel line They use it allthe time.
Call them they May sell it to you
800-237-9906 Talk to Steve
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