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Old 04-11-2013, 01:40 PM   #8161
Hoots
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
Note #2. At 20 psi you shouldn't have any need for a rim lock...the pressure in the tires puts enough force on the bead to secure it in place. I run the rim locks when I have tubes in the tires and am running around 10 to 13 psi front and rear.
This was my concern also ...

I'm intending to drop the rear to about 15, but leave the front reasonably high to protect the rim from rock jarring ...

I'm not going to fit one to the front at this stage ...

I found some 2.5" light-weight billet alloy rim locks, which should be OK ...

Just a short term adjustment - keen to retry the couple of hills that undid me a month or so ago - want to see how much difference lowered tyre pressures actually makes to traction on long steep stretches of loose rock ...
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Old 04-11-2013, 03:46 PM   #8162
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Originally Posted by Hoots View Post
.....
I found some 2.5" light-weight billet alloy rim locks, which should be OK ...
J..
These?

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...?term=rim+lock

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Old 04-11-2013, 04:47 PM   #8163
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Originally Posted by motoged View Post
No

I've used those on a DR650, and didn't like them - too heavy and not well made.

I've ordered some from Torpedo 7:

http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/...y-cnc-rim-lock
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Old 04-11-2013, 05:03 PM   #8164
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I rum rim locks with bibs all the time allways have.
You need too or you will spin the tire.
Yes I know what I am talking about !
I worked for Michelin as a Tire rep at the SCORE races for 5 years.
I have mounted 1000' of Bibs!!!!
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Old 04-11-2013, 05:18 PM   #8165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baja Dad View Post
I rum rim locks with bibs all the time allways have.
You need too or you will spin the tire.
Yes I know what I am talking about !
I worked for Michelin as a Tire rep at the SCORE races for 5 years.
I have mounted 1000' of Bibs!!!!
How about running pinned rims instead? Will the beads remain seated on them with the bibs?

Cheers,

MrHix
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Old 04-11-2013, 06:48 PM   #8166
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Any of the US 690 owners on here have a stock taillight/turn signal assembly laying around they want to get rid of? My taillight/brakelight is getting wonky and I figured someone would have one based on how many posts I see about people replacing them with an LED unit. Shoot me a PM if you can help.

And just to keep in time with the recent posts about rim locks. I run one on the rear wheel of my 690. I don't run my tire pressures lower than maybe 18-20 lbs in the rear so I guess I probably don't really need one but I like the insurance against tearing a valve stem.
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:12 PM   #8167
modeselector
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Originally Posted by invisible monster View Post
Any of the US 690 owners on here have a stock taillight/turn signal assembly laying around they want to get rid of? My taillight/brakelight is getting wonky and I figured someone would have one based on how many posts I see about people replacing them with an LED unit. Shoot me a PM if you can help.
I have an almost new brake light minus signals. Send PM with email and I can shoot you over a photo.
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Old 04-11-2013, 08:32 PM   #8168
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baja Dad View Post
I rum rim locks with bibs all the time allways have.
You need too or you will spin the tire.
Yes I know what I am talking about !
I worked for Michelin as a Tire rep at the SCORE races for 5 years.
I have mounted 1000' of Bibs!!!!
Ran the rally bibs at the safari rally in 2011a and did not run rim locks. Never spun a tire or had any issues. None of my team mates ran rim locks either. We pulled and relubed them every day.


I do run rim locks with the enduro bibs though as they are much smaller
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Old 04-11-2013, 09:19 PM   #8169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrHix View Post
How about running pinned rims instead? Will the beads remain seated on them with the bibs?

Cheers,

MrHix
We did run Pins in our CR250 in the 1986 Baja 1000 the Rim came apart and left me standing on the Beach for 5 hours.
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Old 04-11-2013, 09:29 PM   #8170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
Ran the rally bibs at the safari rally in 2011a and did not run rim locks. Never spun a tire or had any issues. None of my team mates ran rim locks either. We pulled and relubed them every day.


I do run rim locks with the enduro bibs though as they are much smaller
Maybe in a Rally format you can get away with it.
do to the fact you can re-lube it .
But when you have to race all out for 19+ hours ( 1000 miles )
The High speed and heat during the day kills the best bibs
you need to change out your Rear tire and bib about half way thru the race.

I did go 600 miles at last years Baja 1000 on a Dunlop 606 and Dunlop Rally Bib. After that race both tire and Bib did a extra 1000 on my sons Husaberg 450 over the winter.
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Old 04-12-2013, 01:16 AM   #8171
Louisdut
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KTM690 Fault Code Help

Hi all

Im having an intermittent problem with my 690R (2009). At first the bike would cut out under acceleration but would restart ok (it felt like someone was flicking the kill switch off and back on), finally towards the end of the day it cut out and would not restart. Got the bike home, checked coil wires, connectors etc. Got the bike running but would only run on tick over and then cut out, then ran ok.

Next outing ran fine for 75% of the day then would cut out, difficult to start and would only run on around 1/3 throttle. After swapping out the injector it ran fine for for a 180 mile road test but next trail ride cut out on the 1st lane and would not restart and had no spark.

Got bike home and is now running again, did 15 minute idle test but does not seem to rev out properly.

Used Tune ECU to read following fault codes:

P0113 Inlet air temperature open circuit or short & battery
P0122 Throttle position sensor low voltage (short to ground or open circuit)
P0227 Grip throttle sensor low voltage (short to ground or open circuit)
P2119 Throttle position fault

Would suggest its a throttle sensor issue, but would this prevent a spark?

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

Louis
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:37 AM   #8172
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baja Dad View Post
Maybe in a Rally format you can get away with it.
do to the fact you can re-lube it .
But when you have to race all out for 19+ hours ( 1000 miles )
The High speed and heat during the day kills the best bibs
you need to change out your Rear tire and bib about half way thru the race.

I did go 600 miles at last years Baja 1000 on a Dunlop 606 and Dunlop Rally Bib. After that race both tire and Bib did a extra 1000 on my sons Husaberg 450 over the winter.

We saw a couple of bibs get smoked on the Safari but they were mostly on the big 950SE's that were running. I had one Bib get damaged thanks to a stick that punctured the tire and cut the bib in half...but it still worked fine.

When I was prepping for the Safari and asking about bibs and rim locks the consensus was that rim locks were not needed. We were running around 500km's of stages a day often pinned at 100 mph. The nightly ritual was to have ourselves or the team mechanic pull the bibs, recoat with lube, and reinstall. Both of my tires and bibs lasted all 5 days that the bike was run.

A lot of it depends on your riding style and the bike. I have always managed to be reasonably fast when racing but never wear tires and rarely get a flat and have never incinerated a mousse. I am sure I could run the Baja 1000 sans locks and quite possibly on one set of mousse...but I am going to be a 60% of pace rider vs a pace or even 80% pace.
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:41 AM   #8173
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louisdut View Post
Hi all

Im having an intermittent problem with my 690R (2009). At first the bike would cut out under acceleration but would restart ok (it felt like someone was flicking the kill switch off and back on), finally towards the end of the day it cut out and would not restart. Got the bike home, checked coil wires, connectors etc. Got the bike running but would only run on tick over and then cut out, then ran ok.

Next outing ran fine for 75% of the day then would cut out, difficult to start and would only run on around 1/3 throttle. After swapping out the injector it ran fine for for a 180 mile road test but next trail ride cut out on the 1st lane and would not restart and had no spark.

Got bike home and is now running again, did 15 minute idle test but does not seem to rev out properly.

Used Tune ECU to read following fault codes:

P0113 Inlet air temperature open circuit or short & battery
P0122 Throttle position sensor low voltage (short to ground or open circuit)
P0227 Grip throttle sensor low voltage (short to ground or open circuit)
P2119 Throttle position fault

Would suggest its a throttle sensor issue, but would this prevent a spark?

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

Louis
Before you do anything too complicated make sure that your battery connections are clean and tight. With the bike running make sure that your charging system is putting out around 13 to 14 volts. And make sure you have a good battery. Also make sure that all the ground wires that attach to the frame have nice clean contact. Sometimes you have to scrape some paint off the mount point on the frame.

All of your codes indicate a low voltage problem...most sensors run on a 1 to 5 volt range or something similar...if your charging system is not working properly or your battery is low it can through the whole system out of wack.


Aside from that the more common running problems have been with bad fuel injectors or malfunctioning pumps....bad fuel and or clogged fuel filters.
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:45 AM   #8174
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baja Dad View Post
Maybe in a Rally format you can get away with it.
do to the fact you can re-lube it .
But when you have to race all out for 19+ hours ( 1000 miles )
The High speed and heat during the day kills the best bibs
you need to change out your Rear tire and bib about half way thru the race.

I did go 600 miles at last years Baja 1000 on a Dunlop 606 and Dunlop Rally Bib. After that race both tire and Bib did a extra 1000 on my sons Husaberg 450 over the winter.

If you are running balls out full throttle and the bibs are getting hot and breaking down then you would benefit from rim locks because the bib will lose volume...however all the bibs I have seen that failed...were catastrophic...they get a hot spot and auto ignite into a withered useless piece of crispy foam. At that point even running 2 rim locks on the same wheel will only get you so far before the rim is less of a circle and more of a unique geometric shape.
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:00 AM   #8175
BK.RD.RNR
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Originally Posted by modeselector View Post
I have an almost new brake light minus signals. Send PM with email and I can shoot you over a photo.
I have the signals if you need them..
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