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Old 04-28-2013, 03:16 PM   #8461
poondangle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldbear View Post
Have you checked your clutch fluid reservoir? The fluid level rises as the clutch wears so you could take a peek to see that it's not overfilled. The fluid level should be 4 mm below the top.
Took a peek, level looked OK. I just took the same route home, and the bike was doing the same thing. Hit the gas at 5k and revs shoot up to 8k, but no corresponding increase in power??? After a second, RPMs drop, and the bike makes power. It's just like the clutch is slipping?
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:37 PM   #8462
MrHix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christophe View Post
I worry about these high strength brake pedals, I have broken the stock pedal at least 2x (maybe more, I can't remember), and the G-it side guard has prevented the pedal from piercing the engine cover, but if the pedal could not bend I wonder what damage could be done to the frame pedal mount point. I still prefer the cheap OEM replacement pedal than an unbreakable pedal that creates a risk with the frame, so I just carry a spare brake and clutch pedals on my longer trips (the spare clutch pedal proved useful for a friend recently).
If you worry, don't put one on. I worry more about the stock pedal bending easily and the pad breaking a hole in the clutch cover in the middle of nowhere. I laid the bike over in a gravel ditch when it stalled (where is my Rekluse?) and the pad bent up 90 degrees towards the clutch case. I know a small hole can be fixed with putty and oil can be replaced, but I can ride the bike for quite a distance without the rear brake (especially as someone said if it breaks at the pivot bolt).

Your choice.

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Old 04-28-2013, 04:15 PM   #8463
Roadracer_Al
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Sure sounds like it. Smell the engine oil -- does it smell burned? If so, it's definitely clutch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by poondangle View Post
It's just like the clutch is slipping?
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Old 04-28-2013, 05:34 PM   #8464
CanadianX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrHix View Post
I just put a Clean Speed Eng pedal on my '12. Nice & sturdy and a good fit. Looks similar to the RR, but less $$$.

http://www.cleanspeedeng.com/Brake%20Pedal.htm

Cheers,

MrHix
Ordered! Now what about the toe tip part, dealer or is there something else out there? Part number? Mine is somewhere out in the woods still attached to the tip of my brake pedal.
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Old 04-28-2013, 06:00 PM   #8465
FriedDuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poondangle View Post
Took a peek, level looked OK. I just took the same route home, and the bike was doing the same thing. Hit the gas at 5k and revs shoot up to 8k, but no corresponding increase in power??? After a second, RPMs drop, and the bike makes power. It's just like the clutch is slipping?
I had that happen after the bike had sat for a long time. It only happened once and I babied it for the rest of that trip. I don't know if it's sound logic but can that discs dry out after sitting for a long time (or at least the part that's not submerged in oil?)

In any event it never recurred and so I didn't worry about it. Swapping the clutch pack is easy in any event if that turns out to be the issue.

Jeff
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Old 04-28-2013, 06:24 PM   #8466
poondangle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FriedDuck View Post
I had that happen after the bike had sat for a long time. It only happened once and I babied it for the rest of that trip. I don't know if it's sound logic but can that discs dry out after sitting for a long time (or at least the part that's not submerged in oil?)

In any event it never recurred and so I didn't worry about it. Swapping the clutch pack is easy in any event if that turns out to be the issue.

Jeff
Interesting! I'm just having a hard time believing that the clutch is burned. Call me crazy, but I believe the first clutch should outlast the first tire
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Old 04-28-2013, 06:24 PM   #8467
FriedDuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fluff34567 View Post
Is there a clutch pack replacement walk through somewhere or anything special to look for such as half plates etc ?

sent using my fingers and voodoo magic.
Someone did a nice write-up but I think it was lost in the megathread blow-up. It's an easy procedure, some notes from memory:

--Obviously you'll be changing the oil too, so plan for that
--Go ahead and soak the clutch discs when you get them. I think the kit says they need to soak for at least 2 hours?
--You'll have to pull the footpeg mount (3 bolts) and the cover (9 bolts)
--The outermost section of the pack has a convex-shaped ring and a half-size friction disk. Pay attention to which side of the ring is facing out. The remaining stuff is just alternating friction/steel disks.
--Before disassembly note the arrow on the pressure plate (see pic below--it's pointing straight up) that lines up with a notch in the clutch pack. (I think it's a notch--i'll have to consult the service manual)
--The service manual recommends using a factory tool (screws with a shoulder on them) to hold everything together during assembly. It's not necessary but it was a bit fussy getting everything lined up during reassembly. Not a big deal
--Finally the bolts on the cover are 3 different sizes. There's 1 long, 2 medium, and then the rest are short. See the pic below.


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Old 04-28-2013, 06:29 PM   #8468
poondangle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FriedDuck View Post
Someone did a nice write-up but I think it was lost in the megathread blow-up. It's an easy procedure, some notes from memory:

--Obviously you'll be changing the oil too, so plan for that
--Go ahead and soak the clutch discs when you get them. I think the kit says they need to soak for at least 2 hours?
--You'll have to pull the footpeg mount (3 bolts) and the cover (9 bolts)
--The outermost section of the pack has a convex-shaped ring and a half-size friction disk. Pay attention to which side of the ring is facing out. The remaining stuff is just alternating friction/steel disks.
--Before disassembly note the arrow on the pressure plate (see pic below--it's pointing straight up) that lines up with a notch in the clutch pack. (I think it's a notch--i'll have to consult the service manual)
--The service manual recommends using a factory tool (screws with a shoulder on them) to hold everything together during assembly. It's not necessary but it was a bit fussy getting everything lined up during reassembly. Not a big deal
--Finally the bolts on the cover are 3 different sizes. There's 1 long, 2 medium, and then the rest are short. See the pic below.


Thanks. Doesn't seem too hard. I think I'll contact the dealer in the morning. Too bad he's 3 hours away. But I just feel this is a warranty issue. I'm both old and slow, and there's no way it should have gone this quickly.
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:11 PM   #8469
MrHix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanadianX View Post
Ordered! Now what about the toe tip part, dealer or is there something else out there? Part number? Mine is somewhere out in the woods still attached to the tip of my brake pedal.
I think that anything that fits the stock lever will work (may want to wait for confirmation). The CSE pedal uses the 2 bolts from the top to install the tip. I used the stock tip since I still had it. Looks like the Touratech folding tip MAY work (give em a call to make sure): http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/1...KTM-690-Enduro

Cheers,

MrHix
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Old 04-28-2013, 09:10 PM   #8470
RoninMoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanadianX View Post
Ordered! Now what about the toe tip part, dealer or is there something else out there? Part number? Mine is somewhere out in the woods still attached to the tip of my brake pedal.

You have some cheaper options then the touratech part... probably stronger also.
http://www.ktmtwins.com/ktm-690-rall...ized-brake-tip
http://www.ktmtwins.com/ktm-690-950-...ver-step-plate
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Old 04-29-2013, 01:01 AM   #8471
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stronger brake pedal

Sorry guys, I didn't mean to start a fight on the pedals, just to provide another opinion, which apparently some others here share.

Anyway, in france the stock pedal is ~3x cheaper than the stronger pedals (incl delivery and taxes). I have protected the engine case with the glue-on side protector from G-it (I busted a hole there falling on a rock, costly repair, learnt the lesson and added the protection, and it now also protects the engine case from the twisting brake pedal). I also guess that KTM has made the pedals weak for a reason, not just to sell lots of them every year. I also understand that for some riders it is too weak, and a stronger unit is better.

If the stronger brake pedal was only slightly more expensive than the stock unit, and if it was designed to bend or break BEFORE twisting the footpeg bracket or frame, then I would buy it. Has anyone bent or broken the RR or CS pedals?
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Old 04-29-2013, 01:23 AM   #8472
GezwindeSpoed
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Hellas rally

Just back from the Hellas rally. Bike performed flawlessly, no maintenance needed. Replaced air filter once (was not really dirty) and mounted my spare wheel because the rocks ate my rear tire for lunch. Became 3rd in my class (a lot of 690's).

There is 32 Gb of video footage awaiting editing.....
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Old 04-29-2013, 01:34 AM   #8473
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Hellas rally

Once is enough
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:47 AM   #8474
CanadianX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christophe View Post
Sorry guys, I didn't mean to start a fight on the pedals, just to provide another opinion, which apparently some others here share.

Anyway, in france the stock pedal is ~3x cheaper than the stronger pedals (incl delivery and taxes). I have protected the engine case with the glue-on side protector from G-it (I busted a hole there falling on a rock, costly repair, learnt the lesson and added the protection, and it now also protects the engine case from the twisting brake pedal). I also guess that KTM has made the pedals weak for a reason, not just to sell lots of them every year. I also understand that for some riders it is too weak, and a stronger unit is better.

If the stronger brake pedal was only slightly more expensive than the stock unit, and if it was designed to bend or break BEFORE twisting the footpeg bracket or frame, then I would buy it. Has anyone bent or broken the RR or CS pedals?
Aftermarket was cheaper than stock piece for me . I had not considered the brake pedal being designed to fail to spare other more expensive bits so it's good to hear both sides of the discussion on whether stronger is better. I ended up going with stronger part in this case, but also added the adv-spec covers to protect the cases.

I'd be interested to hear if anyone has had a problem with the aftermarket piece causing damaged to the mounting point.
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:51 AM   #8475
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christophe View Post
I also guess that KTM has made the pedals weak for a reason, not just to sell lots of them every year.
Is there anybody on this forum who has had frame damage or at least damaged the brake pedal mount while using the Rally Raid or Cleanspeed brake pedals on their 690?
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