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Old 04-29-2013, 10:11 AM   #8476
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
Is there anybody on this forum who has had frame damage or at least damaged the brake pedal mount while using the Rally Raid or Cleanspeed brake pedals on their 690?

I believe I speak for myself when i say no.

The hit would have to be significant...and such a hit is likely to destroy a lot of other pieces...including the rider...in the process.
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:13 AM   #8477
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanadianX View Post
Aftermarket was cheaper than stock piece for me . I had not considered the brake pedal being designed to fail to spare other more expensive bits so it's good to hear both sides of the discussion on whether stronger is better. I ended up going with stronger part in this case, but also added the adv-spec covers to protect the cases.

I'd be interested to hear if anyone has had a problem with the aftermarket piece causing damaged to the mounting point.

The mounting point is not part of the steel frame but part of a bolt on aluminum piece that is mounted with 3 bolts to the frame. Though I am sure its possible to hit the brake pedal in such a way that frame damage would occur...but I suspect its such a rare scenario you are unlikely to see it.
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:45 AM   #8478
FriedDuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
Is there anybody on this forum who has had frame damage or at least damaged the brake pedal mount while using the Rally Raid or Cleanspeed brake pedals on their 690?
Lukas,

I had a minor spill on that bent the touratech folding tip but didn't do damage to either the pedal or frame.

Jeff
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:13 AM   #8479
shipwrek12001
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easier to set a fire

08 690

Quote:
Originally Posted by BK.RD.RNR View Post
The 690? What is it doing, or not doing?
4 long and one short code.... already chged the fuel pump... w/ ca cycle pump...

failed last fall no codes, I'm sure someone has the video for that.. failed in my drive way a month or more ago setting the 4L1S code, chged the fuel pump... had a grnd failure a week ago, fixed that easily, then failed again yesterday 4L1S code again.... wtf........................

no sound from the fuel pump to be heard..........
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:14 AM   #8480
ktmmitch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
Is there anybody on this forum who has had frame damage or at least damaged the brake pedal mount while using the Rally Raid or Cleanspeed brake pedals on their 690?

Lukas,

In 3 years of selling our Billet Rear Brake Pedal,I have never heard of one causing damage to the alloy footrest hanger.We have never had a pedal break,only a couple of the pressed steel tips flatten,and we sell those as a spare part.

As with all things,its a personal decision,but we sell as many Billet Front Sprocket Protecters/Clutch cylinder protector,and you could argue that if a stone went through it and wedged between the sprocket,then it could break the screws into the crankcases,whereas the OEM plastic one might break/deform......as I said,it's the riders choice.

Personally,I want something fitted to the bike that is not going to break easily on a long trip,and let me down.
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Old 04-29-2013, 12:43 PM   #8481
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ktmmitch:

When are you guys gonna put out some decals/graphics for the Evo-2 Tanks Only (No Fairing)?

Thanks, Dan

PS Loving the kit. Top notch.

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Old 04-29-2013, 12:46 PM   #8482
ktmmitch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellow Pig View Post
ktmmitch:

When are you guys gonna put out some decals/graphics for the Evo-2 Tanks Only (No Fairing)?

Thanks, Dan

PS Loving the kit. Top notch.

We should have them next week.....
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Old 04-29-2013, 01:23 PM   #8483
Yellow Pig
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Teaser?
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Old 04-29-2013, 07:51 PM   #8484
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Two questions:

1. Back in the dark ages on this thread, there was a discussion on what to do about fairing screws spinning the nuts in the gas tank. I've looked in my notes and I can't find what the consensus solution was. Mine are spinning and there doesn't look to be any room in the nut well to get any JB Weld (or similar) in there to lock them down. Should I put the screw back in without the fairing as far as I can and then lever them out, fill the cavity with JB and then set them back in to cure? What's the websitewisdom say?

2. Also, I can't find anything that screws into the smaller, middle screw hole in the picture. Was that something that was removed when my dealer did the canisterectomy, or something? Any idea what was there or what it is that I'm missing?



Thanks,



Lee...
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Old 04-29-2013, 07:55 PM   #8485
sdd04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slidefighter View Post
Two questions:

1. Back in the dark ages on this thread, there was a discussion on what to do about fairing screws spinning the nuts in the gas tank. I've looked in my notes and I can't find what the consensus solution was. Mine are spinning and there doesn't look to be any room in the nut well to get any JB Weld (or similar) in there to lock them down. Should I put the screw back in without the fairing as far as I can and then lever them out, fill the cavity with JB and then set them back in to cure? What's the websitewisdom say?

2. Also, I can't find anything that screws into the smaller, middle screw hole in the picture. Was that something that was removed when my dealer did the canisterectomy, or something? Any idea what was there or what it is that I'm missing?



Thanks,



Lee...
That hole is empty on my 2013, and I think I found a picture in the owners manual also showing it empty.
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Old 04-30-2013, 04:54 AM   #8486
sprouty115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slidefighter View Post
Two questions:

1. Mine are spinning and there doesn't look to be any room in the nut well to get any JB Weld (or similar) in there to lock them down. Should I put the screw back in without the fairing as far as I can and then lever them out, fill the cavity with JB and then set them back in to cure?

2. Also, I can't find anything that screws into the smaller, middle screw hole in the picture. Was that something that was removed when my dealer did the canisterectomy, or something? Any idea what was there or what it is that I'm missing?
If it's a brand new bike I would take it to the dealer and tell them it's defective and let them sort it out before I pulled them out. Because once you do they're going to want nothing to do with it. If it's not new or they're unwilling to help, I'd contact KTM directly and see what they say.

Also that smaller, middle screw is empty on mine (2013) as well.

BTW, while you have the fender/cover off inspect two areas: the top of the tail light and both sides of the gas tank that it covers. Mine was rubbing and it was cutting a pair of notches in the tail light and there was significant abrasion on the tank on the left side of the gas tank. I needed to add some nylon washers between the cover and the nut to provide clearance in both areas.
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Old 04-30-2013, 07:11 AM   #8487
DirtJack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shipwrek12001 View Post
08 690



4 long and one short code.... already chged the fuel pump... w/ ca cycle pump...

failed last fall no codes, I'm sure someone has the video for that.. failed in my drive way a month or more ago setting the 4L1S code, chged the fuel pump... had a grnd failure a week ago, fixed that easily, then failed again yesterday 4L1S code again.... wtf........................

no sound from the fuel pump to be heard..........
In case you didn't see this response.
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Old 04-30-2013, 05:23 PM   #8488
kingby
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Dumb things we do.

Keep in mind I am learning as I go here and am fairly new at bike maintenance.

I guess I wasn't reading the manual carefully enough and managed to incorrectly adjust the chain tension (don't ask... way too tight... I am an engineer who reads plans and dimensions all day and still managed to read the diagram wrong). Promptly went out for about 200 miles of riding over the next couple of days. Some dirt, some road.

Anyway, I just have this feeling that I didn't adjust the chain correctly, and of course do some reading online, re-read the manual and sure enough, I have the chain way too tight. I also read about the catastrophic potential of riding with a tight chain. So now I am a little worried.

I don't think I damaged anything, the transmission still is working fine, no leaks from countershaft seal (at least from what I can tell), sprockets and chain look no worse for the wear, no play in wheel bearings, so I think I am OK.

I have re-adjusted the chain using the method in the manual (push the chain up towards swing-arm from a point 30mm back from the chain slider with 5mm clearance to the swing arm itself). Now I am second guessing myself that it is too loose. My last bike was a Honda 450X a few years back and I recall the chain being tighter than this.

Do KTM chains operate a little looser than other bikes? What is everyone's thoughts on possible damage done to the bike due to my nice tight chain run, that just hasn't appeared yet?
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Old 04-30-2013, 05:48 PM   #8489
slidefighter
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Thanks for the info, guys. Unfortunately, my dealer is a 400 mile round trip away from here. I'll give them a call and see what they suggest though, that is a very good idea.

What a great bike!


Lee...
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Old 04-30-2013, 05:48 PM   #8490
sprouty115
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Was the chain tight when the rear axle, swing arm pivot and front sprocket formed a straight line? If not, then absolutely no damage was done. If it was then it's a matter of "how tight". If there is no visible damage, no leaks, and nothing is bent (you should probably put a dial indicator on the front sprocket shaft), then you may be ok.
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