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Old 06-10-2013, 03:19 PM   #9241
Canadian_Bacon
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I hear you. I'm pretty upset with myself right now. There is still "some" material. The screw does thread downward, it just doesn't tighten up. It just keeps spinning and spinning (when trying to tighten). The upper one appears to be okay. I will give a helicoil a try and fingers crossed it will solve my problem.

Thx for helping a guy who just isn't that bright.


Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
No more drills for bolts in the future please, unless they are on the barely-any-torque-setting.

How much material is there around the damaged hole, will there be enough if you drill it out a millimetre bigger? Then you can put in a threaded insert, e.g. Helicoil, Time-sert or Nut-sert.
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:25 PM   #9242
SKINNY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canadian_Bacon View Post
Okay, I'm the worlds BIGGEST idiot... While finishing an oil change on my 690 and putting the oil filter cover back on (the left oil filter cover) the screws where not being very cooperative so being the impatient fool that I am I used a drill to zap in the screws. Big mistake. On riding the bike I noticed an oil leak coming from the bottom of the oil cover... just finished removing the cover and sure enough on one of the holes for the screws the threads are kinda... Gone. Metal filings where there when I pulled the screw. A major idiot for using the drill. I know... I suck...

My question is is there a way to re thread the hole so the screw will bite and hold the oil cover firmly in place? Or anyother options? Please help out my impatient, stupid, ignorant, and all around not so bright self.
Get the appropriate sized tap for the screw and see if you can re-tap the hole. You may be able to get enough usable threads to tighten the screw. There may be some untapped area at the bottom of the existing hole... If that doesn't work, then you can try the heli-coil method....be careful and don't break the tap off in the hole...
then you're really screwed....
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:38 PM   #9243
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And remember...no need to over-tighten. The torque value on that screw is 6 Nm. That's NOTHING. Most torque wrenches don't even go that low. So whatever bite you can get, just don't over-tighten.
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:41 PM   #9244
v8toilet
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When you drill the hole for the helicoil kit make sure that you don't drill past the bottom of the existing hole and make a new oil leak
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:52 PM   #9245
jorich
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not sure of your mechanical ability, but for piece of mind you may want to consider taking it to a machine shop or bike shop. Could be cheaper than buying a helicoil kit and the stress of drilling too much:) Bring a case of beer and go late afternoon, you would be surprised how far that can get you! (and don't beat your self up too much, your not the first person to do that and you won't be the last)
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:52 PM   #9246
Canadian_Bacon
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Thx again for all the advice guys!


Quote:
Originally Posted by JustBob View Post
And remember...no need to over-tighten. The torque value on that screw is 6 Nm. That's NOTHING. Most torque wrenches don't even go that low. So whatever bite you can get, just don't over-tighten.
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:05 PM   #9247
690Emaf10
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How are you guys mounting your Shorai batteries. I just got one for my 690 enduro and as it is so much smaller I was just wondering what others have done.

Thanks.
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:20 PM   #9248
Canadian_Bacon
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Under my battery there is a high density foam which props the battery high enough so the connectors reach. Not to sure if that is the way it comes from the factory or not. Bought my bike second hand.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 690Emaf10 View Post
How are you guys mounting your Shorai batteries. I just got one for my 690 enduro and as it is so much smaller I was just wondering what others have done.

Thanks.
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:39 PM   #9249
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
Triple clamp stiffeners seems like a pretty stupid idea to me. The triples are designed to have a certain amount of flex in them on purpose, and by twisting with enough force prevent you from bending the tubes as easily when you crash.

The Outex tubeless conversion kit on the other hand is supposed to work ok, some people on Supermoto-Junkie are using it.
Not a stupid thing for a sumo, especially for hard core track riding or racing where flex is a bad thing. Obviously not needed for a dual sport bike.
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Old 06-10-2013, 05:27 PM   #9250
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Not a stupid thing for a sumo, especially for hard core track riding or racing where flex is a bad thing. Obviously not needed for a dual sport bike.
Have you ever seen one of these on a factory team supermoto bike, KTM or from any other brand? If there was a benefit, I would say they'd have them on their bikes....

I don't think flex is an issue as long as the triples are designed correctly, not even for the fastest guys.

LukasM screwed with this post 06-10-2013 at 05:41 PM
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Old 06-10-2013, 05:30 PM   #9251
Baja Dad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 690Emaf10 View Post
How are you guys mounting your Shorai batteries. I just got one for my 690 enduro and as it is so much smaller I was just wondering what others have done.

Thanks.
HIGH DENS FOAM around it
works great !
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Old 06-10-2013, 05:37 PM   #9252
690Emaf10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canadian_Bacon View Post
Under my battery there is a high density foam which props the battery high enough so the connectors reach. Not to sure if that is the way it comes from the factory or not. Bought my bike second hand.
Thanks, I guess it helps to read the paper that came with the battery. Shows right there that it is what you are supposed to do.

Thanks again.
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Old 06-10-2013, 06:23 PM   #9253
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throttle's gone all wonky

Gent's,

My 2010 690 E R has 6600 rip roarin, flawless miles on it..not a single issue to date. Yesterday evening, while wrapping up another 200 mile San Juan classic ride, I was still about 60 miles from home, out in the mountains, the throttle went nuts. The bike had been running perfect all day. Not a single hint of problems...then I went to goose it up a short steep section of trail and got nuthin...all the way to wfo...nuthin. Then all of a sudden , instant wfo which, as you can all imagine, resulted in a rather scary accelerated wheelie associated with a lot of wheel spin and rock tossing while headed toward a big drop. Luckily, I got it shut down, gained control, blipped the throttle a couple times all seemed normal.

So, I got my shit together, started back up the trail and about 30 seconds later, same thing, only this time the throttle stuck wide open, nothing I did with the right had did anything. so I killed the motor with the kill switch. Got my shit together again went to start the bike again expecting the worst...started right up and idled perfectly. I cycled the throttle a couple times...everything was normal. WTF??

So, put her in gear, started on down the trail, again all was fine...for about a mile, when this time I had to throttle down to get around a switchback, and it just stuck at idle this time...again, nothing I did with the throttle changed anything. So I stopped, waited a few seconds while the bike sat & idled perfectly, then I grabbed the throttle again, gave it a twist and it worked perfectly.

So...this went on for the next 60 miles till I limped her into the garage.
I'm guessing its something to do with the TPS..all linkage from the throttle to the TB seems to be in good working order, but I'm not sure where to go from there. Anybody ever had to take the TB & TPS's apart?

Cheers
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Old 06-10-2013, 07:52 PM   #9254
Yellow Pig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellow Pig View Post
Seems like mounting a digital volt meter could be a simple way to keep an eye on the problem and see if the RR is going bad.


Got my Datel Digital volt meter installed. Wired it to a switched source so it comes on when the bike is on.

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Old 06-10-2013, 08:11 PM   #9255
RoninMoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellow Pig View Post
Got my Datel Digital volt meter installed. Wired it to a switched source so it comes on when the bike is on.
One thing to watch out for... if you have it wired to the switched source with other accessories.

You are measuring at the connection.. not at the battery or Reg/rec. Any change in what is being used (grip heaters, lights, etc) will change your voltage because of the losses in the wire.

I was seeing a voltage loss (on the wire, not at the battery) of almost 1 volt when I turned on my grip heaters. If it is a dedicated line from the battery or Reg/rec, you will have a better idea what is actually going on.

Other than that the install looks great!
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