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Old 07-20-2013, 08:34 AM   #9841
777
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Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Durban South Africa
Oddometer: 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by dad2bike View Post
Pics would help. Several versions out there.
Not sure how to post pic, but it seems you remove the grab handles and it fit over where the handles will go COVERING the petrol filler cap, the plate has a lever you pull and it lifts up on a hinge system to allows acces to filler cap.
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Old 07-20-2013, 10:45 AM   #9842
Bigbugberg
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Location: 1313 Mockingbird Lane
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Top End Oil

Looking at PalmStates 690 above, I see an oil line off the filter cover on the right side. My 2010 does not have this. I assume it pushes oil up to the top end spraying the rockers etc.

Question, can the earlier models be retrofitted for this extra oil? Would I want to do this? Does this help alleviate the cam spalling of previous years?

Inquiring minds want to know.
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Old 07-20-2013, 10:51 AM   #9843
cyborg
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Location: Pacific NorthWet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 777 View Post
Not sure how to post pic, but it seems you remove the grab handles and it fit over where the handles will go COVERING the petrol filler cap, the plate has a lever you pull and it lifts up on a hinge system to allows acces to filler cap.
Do the mount bars look like this?


KTM 690 SMC/Enduro Rear Top Bracket
KTM Part Number: 76512027050

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Old 07-20-2013, 11:02 AM   #9844
BIG-E
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Location: Phoenix, Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt33 View Post
I use balancing beads in my tires. My shop installs them with the tires for a modest fee ($15-ish per tire). 2 oz in my tires and they are very smooth at speed.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...ing-Beads.aspx
+1!

2 oz's in a 908 and you are good to GO!!!

If your wheel fills up with mud, all bets are off, until the wheel is clean. Same with regular weights.

I even carry 2 oz's in my tool pack in case I loose all the beads from a flat.

Everyone says I am crazy, but I love the Dyna-Beads..
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Old 07-20-2013, 11:05 AM   #9845
DirtJack
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Location: San Antonio, Texas
Oddometer: 1,579
Rocker Woes

Reading the discussion of rocker issues a week or so ago and my bike being occasionally hard starting, I began to fear I might have rocker issues too (15,400 miles on my 2008). So I ordered up replacement rockers (they are backordered like others had said). Well I needed to check valve clearance (plus a ton of other maintenance things to prep for a trip to Ouray August 9) anyway, so off with the valve cover.



Some scoring on the outer surface of the rollers. The exhaust valves are outside the upper range (.008 fits, but .009 does not). Intakes are at the upper limit of proper range (.004 and .005). The side clearance of the roller is above .01 on both rollers. Anyone know what the side clearance should be?

Hope I get my replacements before August 9.
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DirtJack screwed with this post 08-01-2013 at 06:42 PM Reason: Correct valve clearance values
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Old 07-20-2013, 11:17 AM   #9846
DirtJack
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Location: San Antonio, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyborg View Post
Here is a simple, easy to install voltage monitor that will show you under or over voltage conditions.

These are great. I have them on my 690 and 990. Great to see exactly what is happening to bike voltage levels. You can see all of the indicator levels as you roll up to a stoplight with LEDs on, Euro light on high beam, Heated Grips and the dual fans start to run. Flashing green indicates RR failure. Fortunately haven't seen that one yet.
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:58 PM   #9847
shipwrek12001
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Location: Ottawa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StepOnIt View Post
That sucks about your bike, wish i was closer and could give you a hand or at least pull parts off my working bike and see if that helps .
Also I am sure you are not a grounded type of man

I wish I had a bike to share parts for trouble shooting.....

fuel pump in the spring, v-regulator now... what is up for the fall?
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Old 07-20-2013, 01:04 PM   #9848
777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyborg View Post
Do the mount bars look like this?


KTM 690 SMC/Enduro Rear Top Bracket
KTM Part Number: 76512027050

Nope it is a flat plate the mounts on the holes were the grab handles are the holes closer to the seat has a hinge on the flat plate and the holes near the tail light has a relese spring you pull and lift the flat plate up to get to the filler hole
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Old 07-20-2013, 01:27 PM   #9849
Biped
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Location: Oregon, Wet Side
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbugberg View Post
Looking at PalmStates 690 above, I see an oil line off the filter cover on the right side. My 2010 does not have this. I assume it pushes oil up to the top end spraying the rockers etc.

Question, can the earlier models be retrofitted for this extra oil? Would I want to do this? Does this help alleviate the cam spalling of previous years?

Inquiring minds want to know.
That is just an extension hose to an oil pressure switch for low pressure warning. The rally bikes had the switch on the filter cover, wonder why the added the extension hose. Not sure if the earlier models have wiring to use this function.
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Old 07-20-2013, 01:57 PM   #9850
mbrick
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I have a few questions for a 690 rebuild:

1. What is the proper piston ring orientation? 120 each apart for all 3? Which one forward? The manual did not say anything that I could find. I also thought to place the oil ring spring joint opposite the ring opening.

2. These two parts for the clutch, is #1 supposed to be flat? I noticed both of them looked like bellville springs. And if they are, which direction does the inside face on #1? These both fit underneath/within that larger ID friction disk.

Also, there should be engine oil in the cavity behind the slave cylinder, surrounding the push rod, correct? I didn't see anything in the basket area that would seal it off.




mbrick screwed with this post 07-20-2013 at 02:13 PM
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Old 07-21-2013, 01:00 AM   #9851
MeinMotorrad
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Location: Faro, Portugal, for a couple of weeks.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG-E View Post
+1!

2 oz's in a 908 and you are good to GO!!!

If your wheel fills up with mud, all bets are off, until the wheel is clean. Same with regular weights.

I even carry 2 oz's in my tool pack in case I loose all the beads from a flat.

Everyone says I am crazy, but I love the Dyna-Beads..
I'll give another vote for Dyna-Beads - used them with tubeless tyres (on a scooter) and were very good - didn't know they worked with tubed.

I'm using Ride On anti flat goo stuff at the moment which is supposed to balance the tyres and heavy duty tubes but with mixed results - rear is great front wobbles at 37-42mph then is fine.

Anyone know if wheel wobble causes problems with bearings or spacers etc?
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Old 07-21-2013, 02:22 AM   #9852
StevenD
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Location: Holland, Amserdammed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbrick View Post
I have a few questions for a 690 rebuild:

1. What is the proper piston ring orientation? 120 each apart for all 3? Which one forward? The manual did not say anything that I could find. I also thought to place the oil ring spring joint opposite the ring opening.

2. These two parts for the clutch, is #1 supposed to be flat? I noticed both of them looked like bellville springs. And if they are, which direction does the inside face on #1? These both fit underneath/within that larger ID friction disk.

Also, there should be engine oil in the cavity behind the slave cylinder, surrounding the push rod, correct? I didn't see anything in the basket area that would seal it off.


1 just start anywhere and work in a 120degrees pattern.
2 first the flat, than the springring, than a steel on top of that.
3 that is correct.
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Old 07-21-2013, 08:55 AM   #9853
Michelangelo
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Anyone here using Flexx bars? Just bought a set and need some ideas on throttle cable routing.
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:40 AM   #9854
mbrick
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Location: West coast red sticker territory
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenD View Post
1 just start anywhere and work in a 120degrees pattern.
2 first the flat, than the springring, than a steel on top of that.
3 that is correct.
Thanks Steven. I'll do that for the piston rings.

For the clutch, is #1 supposed to be flat? Because both of them look like bellvilles, #1 a little less though. So depending on the orientation of #1, it will change the stack thickness. I can see in the manual the orientation of #2. If all else fails, I'll put them back in how they were when I took them out, I think I reassembled it on the bench in the same order. It worked before.
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Old 07-21-2013, 04:30 PM   #9855
dad2bike
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Fixed my Leaking Safari Tank.

After the last ride I noticed some leakage coming out of the back corner of the tank.
This is what I found. Upon pushing on the corner I could see a slight wet spot when the tank was that full.


The plan is to plastic weld the corner. Tank emptied of fuel and left to air dry for a few days here in the desert.

I cleaned it off with carb spray and put a welding shield behind it.



I started using this little devil. I cut strips from a HDPE vinegar bottle to use for material.



It wasn't very long until I noticed the heat going away. Damn!

Had to finish the job with this.


Here's the finished product. You'll notice it is a little more blunt than the original corner. As I was heating it up it seems the corner was extremely thin and started to give way to become a hole. Yikes!
Pushing the tank material into the center and adding some it sealed up very good.



Here it is with the seat on.



The other side.



To test the integrity of the weld we filled the tank with water and used a blow nozzle to pressurize the tank some. No leak!

Ginger taking a leak.


I plan on leaving the bike with the tanks open & empty in the shed for a week. Should dry out any remaining water.
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