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Old 07-25-2013, 05:40 AM   #9916
dirty_sanchez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyborg View Post
If it's those round plastic snap-in connectors:

NAPA 77-4031

Call me a dumb-ass, but how in the devil do you use those things?

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Old 07-25-2013, 08:54 AM   #9917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez View Post
Call me a dumb-ass, but how in the devil do you use those things?

Dirty
I don't have a picture of one of the round internal fuel line connectors I have on my Husaberg FE (which I assume the 690 has too) but that kit I pointed to is for various sizes. You pop off the size you need then over the hose, slide it into the round hose connector and it pushes all the tabs at once and opens up.

Best I can do without pix.
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:56 AM   #9918
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This sucks but doesn't blow.

Further to my pump and filter install a few pages back.

Now it wont start

After changing out the pump and filter I did about 50+ miles in short runs to the shops etc. all was fine or so I thought. Yesterday evening I got the bike out and it wouldn't start - pump primed, engine turned over at a healthy pace but no go.

Took the air box off this morning and checked the injector was getting fuel and yes and no. There's fuel getting to the injector but nothing comes out. I took the injector for testing thinking it must be blocked up from crud stirred up when I change the pump and filter. The injector passed the tests - sprays fuel and electrics work.

I tried the original injector I had kept as a spare - bike turned over and fired once (so the injector is getting electricity) then no more, just turned over.

So: Injector is fine, fuel is getting through, engine will fire, what have I missed? Checked the quick disconnect and it's fine.
I wondered if my make do and mend Mercedes clip is not up to the job and is letting fuel through at the filter so the pressure is too low.

Does anybody know the internal diameter of the fuel line at the quick disconnect? I'm thinking of putting a glass fuel filter there. I don't want to cut the oetiker clips to measure because I haven't got any spare to replace them with (yet on their way from ebay)

I have to wait until Wednesday before my clips arrive which means I have to use my legs to get around
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Old 07-25-2013, 09:05 AM   #9919
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Meinmotorrad- I'd double check your pump installation to ensure all of your connections are solid.
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Old 07-25-2013, 09:08 AM   #9920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyborg View Post
I don't have a picture of one of the round internal fuel line connectors I have on my Husaberg FE (which I assume the 690 has too) but that kit I pointed to is for various sizes. You pop off the size you need then over the hose, slide it into the round hose connector and it pushes all the tabs at once and opens up.

Best I can do without pix.
I was just having fun with that question. I did not know that the special tool was available at NAPA though. Thanks!

Yeah, there are (4) or (5) tabs that all need to be pressed at once. I bet it would have been a funny video of me trying to shove a bunch of small screwdrivers into it all at once over and over. I finally realized that I didn't want any of this hose/connector nonsense anymore and got the nips out. Two cuts and it was gone.....

My thinking at the time was, "If I can't get this damn thing off to change the pump here in my garage how in the hell am I going to do it trailside...."

For those who weren't here then, at that point in time Rickypanecatyl (an inmate also with an 08) was having repeated fuel pump failures that caused him to have to push the bike on quite a few occasions. I read the stories of his and decided I really didn't want to have to do that and wanted to be able to replace a failed pump wherever and whenever with readily available components. With Bobzilla's, and a few others, help I came up with replacement components that you could get from NAPA (if you already had a spare pump) and be on your way in no time at a minimal cost.

Uller screwed with this post 07-25-2013 at 09:30 AM
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Old 07-25-2013, 09:39 AM   #9921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyborg View Post
I don't have a picture of one of the round internal fuel line connectors I have on my Husaberg FE (which I assume the 690 has too) but that kit I pointed to is for various sizes. You pop off the size you need then over the hose, slide it into the round hose connector and it pushes all the tabs at once and opens up.

Best I can do without pix.
For this type of hose clamp?



I've always wondered how I get those freakin' things off AND wonder what sort of tool I'd need to clamp them.

Do I need a new tool?!?!?!

Dirty
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Old 07-25-2013, 09:59 AM   #9922
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez View Post
I've always wondered how I get those freakin' things off AND wonder what sort of tool I'd need to clamp them.

Do I need a new tool?!?!?!

Dirty
Yes and no. The type shown above with "ratcheting" notches can sometimes be assembled with waterpump (aka channelok) pliers.

The solid-band type is best done with either a modified (dulled) "hoof cutter" plier or a proper tool.

Here's everything you need to know, and more:



To remove the ratchet type, grab the loose end and lift it off the tab. It's possible to use a small screwdriver to spread the solid band crimps, but the crimped hose is usually damaged with this method. The crimp itself is easily cut off with the above-mentioned hoof-cutter pliers, which look like this:

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Old 07-25-2013, 10:01 AM   #9923
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez View Post
For this type of hose clamp?



I've always wondered how I get those freakin' things off AND wonder what sort of tool I'd need to clamp them.

Do I need a new tool?!?!?!

Dirty
The tools posted by Cyborg are for a different, plastic quick release fitting that is part of the fuel line. Go look at the microfiche of the fuel system and you will see the connector that needs a special tool to operate.

The clamp you posted holds the hose to the fuel pump/filter/regulator

To easily get them off, take a small flat head screwdriver the slide it between the bands at the end of the overlap. You can see the spot in the pic above. It is where the ends are tapered, just before the holding tab. Then twist. It will easily release the tab and the clamp.

You can order the tool and clamps from Motion Pro

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/12-0078/

I like the side jaw set for the hard to reach places.

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/12-0073/

You can also buy larger quantities (25 +) from McMaster-Carr for less $

http://www.mcmaster.com/#ear-hose-clamps/=nrz989

Uller screwed with this post 07-25-2013 at 10:09 AM
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:20 AM   #9924
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I dremel those off and then replace them with something I can take off trail-side in the middle of nowhere if I have to.

For fuel lines I buy the fuel injection clamps with a screw (not the standard hose clamps with a screw) for everything else that's low pressure I usually do regular hose clamps or plastic zip ties if it's thermally viable.


's just me though.
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:50 AM   #9925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
I was just having fun with that question. I did not know that the special tool was available at NAPA though. Thanks!

Yeah, there are (4) or (5) tabs that all need to be pressed at once. I bet it would have been a funny video of me trying to shove a bunch of small screwdrivers into it all at once over and over. I finally realized that I didn't want any of this hose/connector nonsense anymore and got the nips out. Two cuts and it was gone.....

My thinking at the time was, "If I can't get this damn thing off to change the pump here in my garage how in the hell am I going to do it trailside...."

For those who weren't here then, at that point in time Rickypanecatyl (an inmate also with an 08) was having repeated fuel pump failures that caused him to have to push the bike on quite a few occasions. I read the stories of his and decided I really didn't want to have to do that and wanted to be able to replace a failed pump wherever and whenever with readily available components. With Bobzilla's, and a few others, help I came up with replacement components that you could get from NAPA (if you already had a spare pump) and be on your way in no time at a minimal cost.
For those who are not familiar with the connectors Uller and I were talking about, the KTM690's have basically the same exact parts inside the tanks as my Berg FE390. Carrying the one small plastic remover tool in the toolkit would not be too bad if you wanted to stay OEM, at least within the warranty period.

It's the round connectors/couplers at the top of this 690 Fiche pic






I also did safety wire the cap on my Berg 390 fuel pump and will do that to my 690 fuel pump when I get to opening it up. Note that my fuel pump lower housing is metal (for the 70degree Tank I have on it, but the OEM body is normally black plastic.

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Old 07-25-2013, 12:12 PM   #9926
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Originally Posted by Uller View Post
Meinmotorrad- I'd double check your pump installation to ensure all of your connections are solid.
Hmmm. I'm going to get stuck into the tank when the clips are delivered. I didn't safety wire in the pump, I wonder if this is an issue.
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Old 07-25-2013, 02:59 PM   #9927
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Rally Raid sells this custom tool for removing the OEM fuel pump...



Fuel Pump Connector Tool
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Old 07-25-2013, 04:11 PM   #9928
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadracer_Al View Post
Yes and no. The type shown above with "ratcheting" notches can sometimes be assembled with waterpump (aka channelok) pliers.

The solid-band type is best done with either a modified (dulled) "hoof cutter" plier or a proper tool.

To remove the ratchet type, grab the loose end and lift it off the tab. It's possible to use a small screwdriver to spread the solid band crimps, but the crimped hose is usually damaged with this method. The crimp itself is easily cut off with the above-mentioned hoof-cutter pliers, which look like this:
You can also use regular side cutter pliers to cut off the crush clamps. You don't want to use a hoof-cutter to install (crush) a new clamp. As someone mentioned, you can get the install tool from Motion Pro, but I bought mine from Lowe's in the plumbing section. $19.00 This tool is usually located in the area where 1" or 1 1/4" black PVC above ground water line is sold. In Texas this PVC is often used on ranches to plumb water to stock tanks, etc. fastened with crush clamps.
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Old 07-25-2013, 04:31 PM   #9929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtJack View Post
You can also use regular side cutter pliers to cut off the crush clamps. You don't want to use a hoof-cutter to install (crush) a new clamp. As someone mentioned, you can get the install tool from Motion Pro, but I bought mine from Lowe's in the plumbing section. $19.00 This tool is usually located in the area where 1" or 1 1/4" black PVC above ground water line is sold. In Texas this PVC is often used on ranches to plumb water to stock tanks, etc. fastened with crush clamps.
Who's hiding that LIKE button around here?

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Old 07-25-2013, 06:37 PM   #9930
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Who's hiding that LIKE button around here?

Dirty
FaceBook, never heard of it.
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