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Old 08-07-2013, 12:32 PM   #10141
rickypanecatyl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by albie View Post
just installed my rr mcct. Took about an hour from start to finish. Man what a difference in engine noise.
mcct ?
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Old 08-07-2013, 12:40 PM   #10142
sprouty115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickypanecatyl View Post
mcct ?
Manual Cam Chain Tensioner
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Old 08-07-2013, 01:15 PM   #10143
rickypanecatyl
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Thanks! Are you saying it loses the classic LC4 rattle sound? Is the manual cam chain tensioner a bad idea to install if you tend to be forgetful and check up on it? IE is it better to have the automatic tensioner if you're prone to forgetting to adjust it?
Just asking cuz I know this guy...
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Old 08-07-2013, 01:32 PM   #10144
sprouty115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickypanecatyl View Post
Thanks! Are you saying it loses the classic LC4 rattle sound? Is the manual cam chain tensioner a bad idea to install if you tend to be forgetful and check up on it? IE is it better to have the automatic tensioner if you're prone to forgetting to adjust it?
Just asking cuz I know this guy...
I've got 1700Km on my bike so I'm not the one to ask. But I believe Noah (AKA -RoninMoto) made a good suggestion earlier in this thread:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=10078
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Old 08-07-2013, 06:26 PM   #10145
drunkenrich
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Hey guys
Picking up a 2010 690 and i want to replace the stock exhaust with an fmf, want something on the quiet side. I see there are alot of options from fmf, what do you guys recommend? Also, willi need to remap the fuel system?
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Old 08-07-2013, 06:32 PM   #10146
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FMF Q-4 is the only quiet exhaust FMF makes.
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Old 08-07-2013, 06:35 PM   #10147
drunkenrich
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Originally Posted by Yellow Pig View Post
FMF Q-4 is the only quiet exhaust FMF makes.
Do i need to remap the fuel system?
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Old 08-07-2013, 06:44 PM   #10148
sprouty115
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Do i need to remap the fuel system?
Anytime you add a free flowing exhaust it is a good idea to remap. Will your engine immediately blow up if you don't? No. But It's still a good idea. You can do it youself for the price of a cable and some time spent studying, or you can pay a dealer a small fee. See above.

Btw, the Q4 is an excellent choice for a "quiet" exhaust.
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Old 08-07-2013, 06:55 PM   #10149
drunkenrich
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sprouty115 View Post
Anytime you add a free flowing exhaust it is a good idea to remap. Will your engine immediately blow up if you don't? No. But It's still a good idea. You can do it youself for the price of a cable and some time spent studying, or you can pay a dealer a small fee. See above.

Btw, the Q4 is an excellent choice for a "quiet" exhaust.
Thank you for the help, what would a dealer charge ball park?
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:06 PM   #10150
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickypanecatyl View Post
Thanks! Are you saying it loses the classic LC4 rattle sound? Is the manual cam chain tensioner a bad idea to install if you tend to be forgetful and check up on it? IE is it better to have the automatic tensioner if you're prone to forgetting to adjust it?
Just asking cuz I know this guy...
Not like they need adjustment very often. I've been using manual CCT's for a while. Gixxers used to be notorious for badly designed auto CCT's. Some other Zuk models like the DRZ's and Busa's as well. Basically, when it starts to get noticeably noisier you give it a tweek. My 690's got almost 30K miles on the clock so I'm not surprised that things are starting to wear out.
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:09 PM   #10151
Albie
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Thank you for the help, what would a dealer charge ball park?
Depends totally on the dealer. The dealer that did mine twice didn't charge me a penny either time. I've seen prices as high as $150 posted on here by some inmates dealers, that's some good money for 5 minutes of work.

I went ahead and bought the ODBII cable and use the TuneECU software. I like being able to tweek it at will.
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:48 PM   #10152
Yellow Pig
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Yes, you are going to a higher flowing exhaust and getting rid of the cat

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Old 08-07-2013, 07:48 PM   #10153
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2km on my new 2013 690 Enduro, and...

I have 2km on my new 2013 690 Enduro, and I went to pull the shock and forks to send to the suspension shop.

So... to flip up the tank, I followed the Slavens video and when I undid the second bottom gas tank bolt it just spun. How are you suppose to get this second bolt out without spinning the darn bushing?

thanks.


P.S. It was a FUN 2km - what a smooth bike - wow.
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Old 08-07-2013, 08:24 PM   #10154
cyborg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneEffinName View Post
I have 2km on my new 2013 690 Enduro, and I went to pull the shock and forks to send to the suspension shop.

So... to flip up the tank, I followed the Slavens video and when I undid the second bottom gas tank bolt it just spun. How are you suppose to get this second bolt out without spinning the darn bushing?

thanks.
P.S. It was a FUN 2km - what a smooth bike - wow.
I just changed to the RR lower tank bushing/bolt and upper bolts. The OEM lower bolts/threaded rod can be a PIA because like you said, one side can be loose and the other just spins. You have to tighten the loose side again enough to get the other side loose, then work it back and forth until both sides are loose and come out. The internal threaded rod does spin, there's nothing to hold it other than the through-tank rubber grommet. It's a lousy design and best to switch it out with the Rally Raid UK lower bushing/bolt at a minimum. Makes removing it very easy after that.
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Old 08-07-2013, 08:54 PM   #10155
OneEffinName
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Originally Posted by cyborg View Post
I just changed to the RR lower tank bushing/bolt and upper bolts. The OEM lower bolts/threaded rod can be a PIA because like you said, one side can be loose and the other just spins. You have to tighten the loose side again enough to get the other side loose, then work it back and forth until both sides are loose and come out. The internal threaded rod does spin, there's nothing to hold it other than the through-tank rubber grommet. It's a lousy design and best to switch it out with the Rally Raid UK lower bushing/bolt at a minimum. Makes removing it very easy after that.
OK thats cool - thanks. I got a little lathe and some Delrin around here somewhere. Perhaps I will machine a couple of new bushings then get a stainless M8 x140 bolt and nut. Then I will take the existing rod and drill it through. I just dont want to wait for an order from the UK.
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