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Old 09-14-2013, 08:39 AM   #10936
RoninMoto
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Joined: May 2010
Location: In the mountains?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickW909 View Post
Thanks for the info Gen.


Most people appear to have routed the output of the R/R direct to the battery and use a 30A fuse. The advantage of doing this is what exactly?

Looking at the 690 wiring diagram then thats pretty much what is happening with the 2 red/white wires right?

Thanks,

Nick.
almost the same. But with the stock wiring, the ground goes to frame. the red and white wires have plugs on the way. you have the chance to eliminate some crappy spade connectors. make sure you run your ground all the way to the battery also.
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Old 09-14-2013, 11:52 AM   #10937
BK.RD.RNR
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Location: Livin' in the 90's
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I am in Moab for the week, and I'm having an issue with my 690.

Just filled up with gas this morning. Bike started running like there was water in the gas.

Managed to get back into town eventually by not letting the rpms drop below 4k. Put some drygas in the tank, and it does not seem to be helping.

If I keep rpms at 4k or better, bike runs strong to redline. If I choose to give it full throttle to get there, it cuts out hard enough to throw me forward at 60mph.

It's a 2012. I have the akro map, fmf q4, and uni foam filter if that makes any difference.

I'm planning to pull it apart and check the fuel injector 1st. Fuel pump sounds like it is priming normally.

any suggestions appreciated.
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Old 09-14-2013, 12:05 PM   #10938
DirtSolace
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Joined: Mar 2013
Location: Santa Barbara
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyborg View Post

I think this makes the most sense, your thoughts?

Low, Mild, Standard, Wild

I'll let you guys know when I finally make a few more. I sourced all the connectors to make it plug-and-play for map switch and tripmaster switch and have all the parts on my bench, just need the time. I'll post pix then.

I think your "logical" order is great. I too want one when you've got some to sell. Just a note for others: I've already got mine wired to the right side of my bike attached to a smog equipment fastener I no longer need. Happy to have the ease of switching between asphalt and dirt without needing to remove the seat.
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Old 09-14-2013, 12:27 PM   #10939
christian
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My bet is on clogged injector. Do you have the little extra in line fuel filter from the 530?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BK.RD.RNR View Post
I am in Moab for the week, and I'm having an issue with my 690.

Just filled up with gas this morning. Bike started running like there was water in the gas.

Managed to get back into town eventually by not letting the rpms drop below 4k. Put some drygas in the tank, and it does not seem to be helping.

If I keep rpms at 4k or better, bike runs strong to redline. If I choose to give it full throttle to get there, it cuts out hard enough to throw me forward at 60mph.

It's a 2012. I have the akro map, fmf q4, and uni foam filter if that makes any difference.

I'm planning to pull it apart and check the fuel injector 1st. Fuel pump sounds like it is priming normally.

any suggestions appreciated.
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Old 09-14-2013, 03:06 PM   #10940
MeinMotorrad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by christian View Post
My bet is on clogged injector. Do you have the little extra in line fuel filter from the 530?
When I pulled the injector on my '12 there was no in line filter fitted but, the replacement had one (grey) included in the box. I wonder if the filter in the tank is getting filled up with crap from a failing pump - happened to me. I can't say if the original injector was blocked or not as it got cleaned before testing, but having to use high revs sounds familiar.

If a new injector is the culprit it's a good idea to order up a few spare o rings just incase one of the originals gets damaged when being removed or when fitting the new injector - remember to apply a (very) little grease to help them slide into place.

When I ordered my new injector I got the Rally Raid hex bolt things at the same time, and I'm glad I did. The original screws were stuck fast - had to use an impact driver on one (scary with the plastic body), and hack saw on the other before they would budge.
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Old 09-14-2013, 03:22 PM   #10941
Nowwhat
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Location: On the Ground Laughing
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Picked her up this A.M.

been taking stuff off and putting stuff on ever since.....

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Old 09-14-2013, 05:49 PM   #10942
BK.RD.RNR
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Thanks for the replies, it turned out to be the injector. I backflushed it quick, and added some seafoam to the gas. It seems all better now.
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Old 09-14-2013, 06:36 PM   #10943
ba_
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BK.RD.RNR View Post
Thanks for the replies, it turned out to be the injector. I backflushed it quick, and added some seafoam to the gas. It seems all better now.
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Old 09-14-2013, 06:53 PM   #10944
DirtJack
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Location: San Antonio, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyborg View Post
Hey FD, just back a bit in this very mega-thread I also flogged this this map switch thing a bit.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=10008

even made a small proto switch, just been too busy lately to build any more.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=10162

Count me in if you decide to make some. Nice design.
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Old 09-14-2013, 07:02 PM   #10945
DirtJack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palmstatecrawler View Post
What do you guys use to ensure your rear tire is straight after adjusting the chain? I have a motion pro chain alignment tool http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0048/ but the chain guard is not easy to take off.
I built one of these



out of aluminum rod from Lowe's, Bend right angle end and file point. Then put zip tie with angle cut on the rod and adjust for one side then compare on other side. 690's have a nice reference point on the center of the swing arm nut. Works on all my KTM's. I think I first saw this on the original (pre 2007) LC4 thread.
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DirtJack screwed with this post 09-14-2013 at 07:08 PM
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Old 09-15-2013, 12:45 AM   #10946
fluff34567
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Location: choco land AKA switzerland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez View Post
Guys if you haven't already, grease those headset bearings. I took the front end off yesterday and couldn't believe the amount of grease )or lack of grease) they use on the triple clamp bearings.

The Austrians must have some sort of severe GREASE shortage going on. I've always heard bike mfg's are chincy on grease but never really took it to heart.

The bike is a '12 with about 4.5k miles on the odo, but there were already very faint signs of roller wear on the top and bottom race which are indicative of an improperly torqued steering stem. If you really don't want to take the whole front end off of the bike at the very least, lift the front end of of the ground, loosen that pinch bolt on the top triple and torque that big aluminum nut to 7.5 to 10ft/lbs. Torque the nut to seat those bearings again, then torque the pinch bolt to spec.

I did this to try and eliminate the easy stuff in an effort to calm down that headshake and front end nervousness from 75mph on up.

Be mindful of the top stem nut torque (7.5ft/lbs), the O-Ring that goes over the top cup, and the torque of the pinch bolt on the top triple.

Next up the swingarm linkage bearing re-grease.

Dirty

surely by leaving the front end on, the torque loading will be incorrect due to the additional weight?
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Old 09-15-2013, 12:48 AM   #10947
fluff34567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palmstatecrawler View Post
What do you guys use to ensure your rear tire is straight after adjusting the chain? I have a motion pro chain alignment tool http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0048/ but the chain guard is not easy to take off.

use the standard adjuster marks, and remember to find the chain tight spot first and adjust the tension using that section.
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Old 09-15-2013, 04:17 AM   #10948
Oldbear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fluff34567 View Post
surely by leaving the front end on, the torque loading will be incorrect due to the additional weight?
10 Nm with the front end on and lifted off the ground is the spec in the repair manual.
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Old 09-15-2013, 05:03 AM   #10949
fluff34567
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thats good - got a link for the repair manual ?
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Old 09-15-2013, 12:03 PM   #10950
Oldbear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fluff34567 View Post
thats good - got a link for the repair manual ?
KTM sells it for less than 20 euros, part # is 3206153 (or 3206090 for the old edition).

If you'd rather spend the money on spare parts or gas you can just Google "KTM 690 repair manual" and grab the pdf you'll find.
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