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Old 09-24-2013, 06:39 PM   #11206
The Letter J
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CordR View Post
Whoa, whoa, whoa... This whole time I thought that the shaft had stayed in place and the link broke away from it, but looking at this pic leads me to believe that the bolt broke first (isn't it only 8mm?) which would side load the link causing it to break? In other words, loose/ fatigued bolt was the problem, the link was just a catastrophic failure AFTER the bolt broke?

Then again, the shaft should take all the load while the bolts just locate the shaft side to side right? I know that the holes in my frame are ever so slightly ovaled out where these bolts penetrate, so they have to be under some shear load. Either way, it looks to me like something other than the link may be the root cause. I'm still on board for a sturdier piece though.
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:17 PM   #11207
Uller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dad2bike View Post
Hey Uller! How's things going with getting Kouba to make a standard link? I prefer not to be one of those rare broken parts.

Sent from outside my mind.
I replied to his email. No response yet but, not enough time either...

Told him that compared to the OEM link, I thought his link was "Dakar Proof". We just need the Std. length Dog Bones. (At the same price he already sells them for. )

Also attached a few of the pictures that CordR posted along with LVaverage joe's pic to let him know that there had been more than one in a short time and it had been the same failure.

I also told him that I thought he had orders waiting when he decided to make the part.

We will see. It seems like he is interested to me but, you read his email too. I will post here as soon as I hear something back.

I am not so sure that the bolt didn't break after the fact. When I looked at it, it seemed like the bolt/shaft were in place. The mechanic only discovered the sheared bolt upon removal.

Remember, in both instances that have been reported here; both of the bikes were ridden for some miles with the broken link. What was original damage compared to consequential damage is a hard thing to determine IMO.

I am no Engineer however, if I think about the linkage system in relation to the swingarm, wheel and the impact all in relation to the direction of travel; I don't think it would blow out the front of the linkage and shear the bolt at the same time. Reasoning is, in order for the backside of the link to blow out like that it needs a solid component to rip it out. If the bolt also broke you no longer have that.

If one released the stress of the impact, I don't believe that the other one did at the same time. And, with that in mind, I believe that the shear strength of the bolt is much greater than that of the weak, cast aluminum linkage.

I could very easily be wrong though...

If a stronger linkage leads to more sheared bolts. I'll source a stronger bolt. Once we get to frame distortion we have reached the limit. (After experiencing KTM's Tank Bolt Strength, I'm inclined to believe that there might be room for improvement there too.)

Uller screwed with this post 09-24-2013 at 09:28 PM
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:29 PM   #11208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vander View Post
I have been riding the 690 for some weeks now and two things are clear:



As for the position, is a bar riser the way to go, or are lower footpegs available? What is better?

Based on information I received today, I believe we will see lowered (.5 inch) foot pegs from Black Dog Cycle Works that will fit the 690. Not sure exactly when...
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:55 PM   #11209
pookguy88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CordR View Post
So I was all set to respond to the above with a line about checking the 690 wiki at http://ktm690.info/ but I'm getting a 'Bad Gateway'...server something...proxy geek speak etc.

Did I miss something? Is the wiki still around?


C
noticed this today too... looks like someone forgot to pay the hosting bills..
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:11 PM   #11210
palmstatecrawler
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Question In need of a seat bumper and radiator bumper. PLEASE HELP!!!

I was goin over the bike today and noticed one of the bumpers on the underside of the seat is missing. I also saw that the shroud bolt was missing and so was the threaded bumper that attaches to the radiator mount. Does anyone happen to have these somewhere?
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Old 09-24-2013, 11:19 PM   #11211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palmstatecrawler View Post
I was goin over the bike today and noticed one of the bumpers on the underside of the seat is missing. I also saw that the shroud bolt was missing and so was the threaded bumper that attaches to the radiator mount. Does anyone happen to have these somewhere?
Are you asking whether anyone happens to have picked up your missing shroud bolt ... ?

EDIT:

Hoots screwed with this post 09-25-2013 at 12:53 AM
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Old 09-24-2013, 11:23 PM   #11212
palmstatecrawler
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Someone that is using these? Just thought I'd ask.
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'13 KTM 690 Enduro R w/ full akrapovic exhaust, Evo1 lid, uni filter, Renazco seat, hard parts windshield and footpad, scotts damper with BRP submount, hammerhead shifter, flatlands skidplate, lost dog centerstand, Touratech engine guards, r&g front and rear axle and exhaust sliders, piaa 1100's, Doubletake mirrors, G2cam system,
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Old 09-24-2013, 11:46 PM   #11213
TheMuffinMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pookguy88 View Post
noticed this today too... looks like someone forgot to pay the hosting bills..
No, I just moved apartments and my new ISP is being stupidly slow in sending a tech out. The server should be up in a day or two. I didn't think anyone used the website .
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Old 09-25-2013, 04:02 AM   #11214
johnno950
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CordR View Post
For those of you that just can't get enough pics of broken things, my riding partner, and I guess he's now my mechanic, is sending me pics as he strips the bike down and we wait for parts.....






almost looks like the suspension travel completey bottoms out and the swing arm still has travel when the shock is fully compressed,looks like its been torn apart and made of sub standard material

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Old 09-25-2013, 05:56 AM   #11215
Bill the Bong
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Location: Kalahari South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudguts View Post
Mr the bong , you can adjust the idel by the set screw on the right side of the throttle body it is a PITA , it's is also in the vortex manual , just do set the idel to high or you will blow the TB off with a back fire
Mine was modified to allow the idle speed to be set from the outside. Used a cap screw and a lock nut. Takes 30 seconds once the seat is off.
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Old 09-25-2013, 07:44 AM   #11216
pookguy88
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question, I'm on a 1 5/8" kouba lowering link right now on the stock spring. I'd like to move back to the 1" kouba and get a softer spring.

what spring would you guys recommend for my weight? (145-150lb with gear)

I'm pretty sure I'm not getting the proper sag with the stock spring (too hard). But I figure if I have the shock out anyway to adjust the preload I should just get the proper spring.
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Old 09-25-2013, 10:41 AM   #11217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palmstatecrawler View Post
I was goin over the bike today and noticed one of the bumpers on the underside of the seat is missing. I also saw that the shroud bolt was missing and so was the threaded bumper that attaches to the radiator mount. Does anyone happen to have these somewhere?

PSC,
I lost one of the bumpers from the seat, went to auto parts store and had no luck. Then I went to my friend's auto-body shop and dug around in his box of "Bolts & Crap"....found exactly what I needed...

Good luck.
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Old 09-25-2013, 10:46 AM   #11218
motoged
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Brad,
I appreciate your efforts with this issue. I also know how meticulous you are with inventive solutions....so I am surprised that you haven't just suggested some JB Weld, a little buffing with your favourite Dremmel, and some WD 40 (as it has been proven to be an excellent lubricant... )....

A better designed pro-link with zerks (sp?) would be a marketable item....getting into that broken part of the linkage is a real PIA

I have heard, however, that even linkages w/ zerks don't always get grease to where it is needed...
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Old 09-25-2013, 11:04 AM   #11219
samppa2005
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I didn't read the whole thread on how the link broke but it looks as if the bolt broke and the link got wedged at an angle and then broke. It could be that the bearings were gone already before the bolt broke. In the end though it's sort of irrelevant. It takes quite a bit of abuse to break the link or there has been a manufacturing fault. The thing is though that before you go and put in a stronger link you should thenk what part will fail next? In engineering it's fairly common to use "fuse" parts. They break before anything dangerous or expencive breaks. If you make the link stronger what will break next? Shock, swing arm?
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Old 09-25-2013, 11:39 AM   #11220
Uller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samppa2005 View Post
I didn't read the whole thread on how the link broke but it looks as if the bolt broke and the link got wedged at an angle and then broke. It could be that the bearings were gone already before the bolt broke. In the end though it's sort of irrelevant. It takes quite a bit of abuse to break the link or there has been a manufacturing fault. The thing is though that before you go and put in a stronger link you should thenk what part will fail next? In engineering it's fairly common to use "fuse" parts. They break before anything dangerous or expencive breaks. If you make the link stronger what will break next? Shock, swing arm?
Thanks for your take on it.

I very much would like to discuss and debate this failure. It interests me. So, I am not trying to argue, but, to debate this when I state the following (It is sometimes hard to understand the tone in here and I know I seem to be argumentative at times....)

Again, I still don't see how the front of the link gets ripped out after the bolt shears. Under typical conditions, such as bike/rider weight and normal riding, I believe this link to be under compression. Only when the front face of the wheel contacts a large immovable object pulling back and up on it, in this case the backside of a ditch, does the link come under a tensional force.

IMO, the broken link exhibits signs of a tension related failure that could only come from the link being pulled backwards (the tension) while the shaft inside the bearing, which is held in place by the bolt, remains fixed.
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