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Old 10-04-2013, 04:31 AM   #11296
Bill the Bong
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Originally Posted by RoninMoto View Post
I'm going to assume you only replaced the pads and not the disk? When you first install the pads, they don't have the same surface profile as the disk. Your old pads and break disk wore together to make a shape that wasn't flat. You new pads also are rough right now. Soon they will become polished and you shouldn't see much more abrasion.
Yes, only the pads. I was just taken aback by the amount of abrasion on the rear disk, the front disk is not showing anything. Interesting enough, 1 of the rear pads had a lengthwise crack through the friction material. It had almost the same thickness left as the new pads.
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Old 10-04-2013, 04:47 AM   #11297
sprouty115
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Originally Posted by Bill the Bong View Post
...Interesting enough, 1 of the rear pads had a lengthwise crack through the friction material. It had almost the same thickness left as the new pads.
You should pull the caliper apart and clean it thoroughly (if you haven't done that already). That condition can indicate a sticky piston on one side.
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Old 10-04-2013, 05:31 AM   #11298
Bill the Bong
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Originally Posted by sprouty115 View Post
You should pull the caliper apart and clean it thoroughly (if you haven't done that already). That condition can indicate a sticky piston on one side.
Yip, thanks. I'm doing that this weekend. Quality time!
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Old 10-04-2013, 08:09 AM   #11299
ramjet
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Originally Posted by MeinMotorrad View Post
I hit a piece of concrete on the road at night doing about 70. I'm guessing the concrete was about 7 or 8 inches tall but really difficult to remember properly. Bike went airborne for some distance but landed straight and thankfully I was able to come to a stop without falling.

The front wheel is buckled but I can't see any other damage to the forks or steering. Should I be worried about other damage?.
Hitting it straight on even at that speed likely didn't damage forks or head bearings. Just replace rim-you can get one of the DID rims that is lghter and stronger than OEM. You will be good to go.
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Old 10-04-2013, 10:34 AM   #11300
Seth S
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All of the links shown so far with the exception of the Kouba Link are cast units. In the world of manufacturing metal products there are 3 common ways to make shapes out of metal. In this case because we are talking about aluminum I will refer to (1) Casting, (2) Machining, and (3) Forging. The least expensive and least strongest method is casting. Most of the Aluminum (Aluminium) parts on the 690 are cast as this is an inexpensive and quick way to make the parts and for many of the parts the strength is adequate. The Kouba links are machines out of a Solid chunk of Aluminum (Billet)...Billet is a term that gets thrown around as if it has magical properties...people like to point out their Billet aluminum parts...but Billet just means the part started life as one big chunk. The last method is to forge the part. Forgings can be hot or cold and this refers to the temperature range that the metal is heated to before it gets worked in the forging process. Forged aluminum parts tend to be the strongest because of the way the parts microstructure gets arranged and because of the way the material gets worked during the process. Forging can be very economical but it depends on the scale of production. When you only make a few parts it is not economical.


So that said Casting is the chosen method as the strength is usually good enough and its cheap. Most of our aftermarket parts are machined from a piece of Billet Aluminiumumum.


If there is a need for an uprated link then It would make sense to have some pieces machined from a solid chunk and choose an uprated bearing. While the rally ones are nice they are pricey and still cast.
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Old 10-04-2013, 01:31 PM   #11301
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Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
All of the links shown so far with the exception of the Kouba Link are cast units. In the world of manufacturing metal products there are 3 common ways to make shapes out of metal. In this case because we are talking about aluminum I will refer to (1) Casting, (2) Machining, and (3) Forging. The least expensive and least strongest method is casting. Most of the Aluminum (Aluminium) parts on the 690 are cast as this is an inexpensive and quick way to make the parts and for many of the parts the strength is adequate. The Kouba links are machines out of a Solid chunk of Aluminum (Billet)...Billet is a term that gets thrown around as if it has magical properties...people like to point out their Billet aluminum parts...but Billet just means the part started life as one big chunk. The last method is to forge the part. Forgings can be hot or cold and this refers to the temperature range that the metal is heated to before it gets worked in the forging process. Forged aluminum parts tend to be the strongest because of the way the parts microstructure gets arranged and because of the way the material gets worked during the process. Forging can be very economical but it depends on the scale of production. When you only make a few parts it is not economical.


So that said Casting is the chosen method as the strength is usually good enough and its cheap. Most of our aftermarket parts are machined from a piece of Billet Aluminiumumum.


If there is a need for an uprated link then It would make sense to have some pieces machined from a solid chunk and choose an uprated bearing. While the rally ones are nice they are pricey and still cast.

Somebody convince Kouba to make a stock length so I can buy one.
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Old 10-04-2013, 01:44 PM   #11302
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Originally Posted by RoninMoto View Post
Blink factor?

The axle is in a straight line with the fork on the SMR. On the enduro the axle is offset forward a few cm. The tripple on the SMR makes up for this difference some. Lukas can probably go into it more. Look at this thread. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=698632
well if it serve no purpose other then looks, no point for me to swap out the original E R clamps
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Old 10-04-2013, 01:55 PM   #11303
Uller
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Originally Posted by Okieboy2 View Post
Somebody convince Kouba to make a stock length so I can buy one.
You can help by sending him an email and expressing your desire to purchase one.

njkouba@ix.netcom.com

Edit:

I went back and found the parts list (created by Beaney) to upgrade the 690 with rally parts.

Pull rods from 450 rally bike
Rocker arm 660 rally bike ( requires machining)
Rear shock 450 rally ( Having a custom made Ohlins ttx made giving 305mm of travel)

Uller screwed with this post 10-04-2013 at 02:08 PM
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Old 10-04-2013, 03:14 PM   #11304
motoged
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[QUOTE=MeinMotorrad;22476720]I hit a piece of concrete on the road at night doing about 70. I'm guessing the concrete was about 7 or 8 inches tall but really difficult to remember properly. Bike went airborne for some distance but landed straight and thankfully I was able to come to a stop without falling.

The front wheel is buckled but I can't see any other damage to the forks or steering. Should I be worried about other damage?...QUOTE]

MM,
In situations like that I later discover that my underwear has been damaged... .
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Old 10-04-2013, 06:12 PM   #11305
gen
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Originally Posted by MeinMotorrad View Post
The front wheel is buckled but I can't see any other damage to the forks or steering. Should I be worried about other damage?
Big sharp hits like that can damage steering head bearings, so try to get the front wheel off the ground and check for any notches or clicks or play in the steering.

Also your forks may be out of alignment. If you know how to check this you should or have the dealer check.
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Old 10-04-2013, 06:15 PM   #11306
gen
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Does a 2012 SMC R triple tress serve any purpose if I fit it on E R, well other then blink factor.
The offset is different because the forks are different. I think the steering will be sharper- you may or may not want that.

Also if you are running any steering damper, I have been told that it not work on the SMC triple trees. I'd love to know whether it does or not.
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Old 10-04-2013, 07:57 PM   #11307
Gros Buck
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Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
All of the links shown so far with the exception of the Kouba Link are cast units ...
Problem is we do not know what alloy they are using.

You can easily triple the strength of a part with an appropriate alloy. Pretty easy to jump from 25,000 to 75,000 psi (707x T6) with an appropriated selection.

Drop forging will add up to 15% and extra life.

Heat treatment is critical to many aluminium alloy.

Paul Jr
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Old 10-05-2013, 05:06 AM   #11308
MeinMotorrad
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Thanks for all the advice guys.

I've been trying to get in touch with the nearest KTM dealer who is in a place called Boe, about a 60km ride from me, but no luck so far. Maybe Google translate isn't so great - pas de fumée française.

Wheels: Anybody tried these. I'm wondering if they're stronger. I've seen some Excel wheels (Wheels with hubs machined the lightest on the market. Wheel with strapping, hub and spokes. - That's the google translation), for 369 Euros but I don't know anything about them. Will I have to get bearings also? I've never bought a new wheel before.
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Old 10-05-2013, 09:39 AM   #11309
ramjet
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Originally Posted by MeinMotorrad View Post
?..
Wheels: Anybody tried these. I'm wondering if they're stronger. I've seen some [URL="http://www.shopktm.fr/produit.asp?Lng=5&NuC=7&DoC=ktm&Prod=921&NProd=Ktm-Roue-avant-Excel-noire"][COLOR
If that is the ST-X, that is the one I have. I replaced the OEM 1.85 with the DID ST-X 1.6. Used same tire as OEM. I just bought the rim and used existing spokes and hub and relaced.

http://www.didchain.com/LXSXDirtstar.html
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Old 10-05-2013, 10:45 AM   #11310
DirtJack
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Originally Posted by MeinMotorrad View Post
Thanks for all the advice guys.

I've been trying to get in touch with the nearest KTM dealer who is in a place called Boe, about a 60km ride from me, but no luck so far. Maybe Google translate isn't so great - pas de fumée française.

Wheels: Anybody tried these. I'm wondering if they're stronger. I've seen some Excel wheels (Wheels with hubs machined the lightest on the market. Wheel with strapping, hub and spokes. - That's the google translation), for 369 Euros but I don't know anything about them. Will I have to get bearings also? I've never bought a new wheel before.
The stock rims are 36 spoke rather than 32 spoke, so if you are re-using the original hub, you need a 36 spoke rim. If you are using a complete wheel, then the number of spokes is less of an issue. You need only be concerned about axle diameter, hub width, spacers, and rotor mount.
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