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Old 10-03-2013, 05:38 PM   #11326
motoged
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Thanks....got it
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Old 10-03-2013, 06:33 PM   #11327
JParanee
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I wanted to bring my bike down a bit and I am impressed with the link and the quality of it

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Old 10-03-2013, 07:34 PM   #11328
DirtJack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
Sorry if I am becoming a broken record but, I just came across this last night while looking at suspension stuff.

I am not too familiar with the aftermarket parts for the smaller KTM's, mainly because I don't have one, so the Link Skid isn't something I immediately thought about when we were discussing the link failures that occurred lately.

Well, I found this picture very interesting.


This part is made for the "Slavens Link Skid for KTM 125,150,250,300,350,450 XC,XCF,SX,SXF"

Now lets take another look at the OEM Link for the 690, again.



Anyone notice a difference between the two? It looks to me like a much lighter, smaller bike has a substantially stronger link at the outer portions to strengthen it while the heavier 690's link is made of thinner material where the bearing race is. Why would a heavier bike that travels at much greater speeds have a weaker component in the suspension system?



Albie has been correct all along. Damn it....

I think the 690's suspension linkage is designed for road use only. The engineers didn't think to improve it when they created the Enduro Version from the Sumo version that it began as; and this is why the link on the 690 is made of thinner material than the same part for bikes that weigh close to 100 lbs. less. The engineers didn't think it would see the abuse other bike models do so they cheapened it up.

Just a theory though. Flame away.

Edit: I hadn't heard anything so, I just sent Norm Kouba an email to see where things are Re: the std. length link. I floated the idea of doing a possible Group Buy with a set number of units required. I'll let you know what I hear. And...on that note, I also sent Midwest Mountain Engineering an email to ask if there had been any progress on the Magura Clutch Lever. Anyone who has interest in either of these parts should give the respective companies a shout.
Just for grins, I looked at the links on a 2008 690 Rally Replica and they are a different design (separate dog bones rather than a 1 piece that our bikes have). It's hard to tell from the fiche picture whether or not they thicker around the bearings.
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Old 10-03-2013, 08:37 PM   #11329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtJack View Post
Just for grins, I looked at the links on a 2008 690 Rally Replica and they are a different design (separate dog bones rather than a 1 piece that our bikes have). It's hard to tell from the fiche picture whether or not they thicker around the bearings.
I just read this then jumped over to Facebook and I saw Lyndon Poskitt posted some photos of a new 690 Rally build he is doing. Whole Album Here

Here are a few close ups of the suspension. I'm not sure how different the links are.... It probably wouldn't work on the 690 enduro. The RR shock has a fork on the bottom that "straddles" the link.



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Old 10-03-2013, 10:42 PM   #11330
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On the phone so I can't look it up but a couple weeks ago I quoted a post by Beaney where he briefly explains how to use some rally parts to solve this issue but he also mentioned that the parts required machining and command rally prices.

I am drooling over those links in the picture above.

From the mobile...
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Old 10-04-2013, 01:05 AM   #11331
MeinMotorrad
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Accident

I hit a piece of concrete on the road at night doing about 70. I'm guessing the concrete was about 7 or 8 inches tall but really difficult to remember properly. Bike went airborne for some distance but landed straight and thankfully I was able to come to a stop without falling.

The front wheel is buckled but I can't see any other damage to the forks or steering. Should I be worried about other damage?

The tyre and HD inner tube are both history.
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Old 10-04-2013, 02:15 AM   #11332
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Does a 2012 SMC R triple tress serve any purpose if I fit it on E R, well other then blink factor. Got myself a set of 12 smcr wheels comes with triple trees, suspension etc etc.
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Old 10-04-2013, 03:04 AM   #11333
Bill the Bong
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Sintered pads

I fiitted new front and rear brakepads in preparation for a rally in 2 weeks. Pads were sintered SBS as per their website's recommendation. However, after 1 bedding run, I'm seeing some abrasion on the rear disk. Are they just soft or should I consider other options.
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Old 10-04-2013, 03:15 AM   #11334
RoninMoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill the Bong View Post
I fiitted new front and rear brakepads in preparation for a rally in 2 weeks. Pads were sintered SBS as per their website's recommendation. However, after 1 bedding run, I'm seeing some abrasion on the rear disk. Are they just soft or should I consider other options.
I'm going to assume you only replaced the pads and not the disk? When you first install the pads, they don't have the same surface profile as the disk. Your old pads and break disk wore together to make a shape that wasn't flat. You new pads also are rough right now. Soon they will become polished and you shouldn't see much more abrasion.
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Old 10-04-2013, 03:29 AM   #11335
RoninMoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13x View Post
Does a 2012 SMC R triple tress serve any purpose if I fit it on E R, well other then blink factor. Got myself a set of 12 smcr wheels comes with triple trees, suspension etc etc.
Blink factor?


The axle is in a straight line with the fork on the SMR. On the enduro the axle is offset forward a few cm. The tripple on the SMR makes up for this difference some. Lukas can probably go into it more. Look at this thread. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=698632
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RTW Ride Report --> http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781893
Blog ------------------> http://rtwwithnoah.blogspot.com/
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Old 10-04-2013, 04:31 AM   #11336
Bill the Bong
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoninMoto View Post
I'm going to assume you only replaced the pads and not the disk? When you first install the pads, they don't have the same surface profile as the disk. Your old pads and break disk wore together to make a shape that wasn't flat. You new pads also are rough right now. Soon they will become polished and you shouldn't see much more abrasion.
Yes, only the pads. I was just taken aback by the amount of abrasion on the rear disk, the front disk is not showing anything. Interesting enough, 1 of the rear pads had a lengthwise crack through the friction material. It had almost the same thickness left as the new pads.
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Old 10-04-2013, 04:47 AM   #11337
sprouty115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill the Bong View Post
...Interesting enough, 1 of the rear pads had a lengthwise crack through the friction material. It had almost the same thickness left as the new pads.
You should pull the caliper apart and clean it thoroughly (if you haven't done that already). That condition can indicate a sticky piston on one side.
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Old 10-04-2013, 05:31 AM   #11338
Bill the Bong
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Originally Posted by sprouty115 View Post
You should pull the caliper apart and clean it thoroughly (if you haven't done that already). That condition can indicate a sticky piston on one side.
Yip, thanks. I'm doing that this weekend. Quality time!
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Old 10-04-2013, 08:09 AM   #11339
ramjet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeinMotorrad View Post
I hit a piece of concrete on the road at night doing about 70. I'm guessing the concrete was about 7 or 8 inches tall but really difficult to remember properly. Bike went airborne for some distance but landed straight and thankfully I was able to come to a stop without falling.

The front wheel is buckled but I can't see any other damage to the forks or steering. Should I be worried about other damage?.
Hitting it straight on even at that speed likely didn't damage forks or head bearings. Just replace rim-you can get one of the DID rims that is lghter and stronger than OEM. You will be good to go.
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Old 10-04-2013, 10:34 AM   #11340
Seth S
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All of the links shown so far with the exception of the Kouba Link are cast units. In the world of manufacturing metal products there are 3 common ways to make shapes out of metal. In this case because we are talking about aluminum I will refer to (1) Casting, (2) Machining, and (3) Forging. The least expensive and least strongest method is casting. Most of the Aluminum (Aluminium) parts on the 690 are cast as this is an inexpensive and quick way to make the parts and for many of the parts the strength is adequate. The Kouba links are machines out of a Solid chunk of Aluminum (Billet)...Billet is a term that gets thrown around as if it has magical properties...people like to point out their Billet aluminum parts...but Billet just means the part started life as one big chunk. The last method is to forge the part. Forgings can be hot or cold and this refers to the temperature range that the metal is heated to before it gets worked in the forging process. Forged aluminum parts tend to be the strongest because of the way the parts microstructure gets arranged and because of the way the material gets worked during the process. Forging can be very economical but it depends on the scale of production. When you only make a few parts it is not economical.


So that said Casting is the chosen method as the strength is usually good enough and its cheap. Most of our aftermarket parts are machined from a piece of Billet Aluminiumumum.


If there is a need for an uprated link then It would make sense to have some pieces machined from a solid chunk and choose an uprated bearing. While the rally ones are nice they are pricey and still cast.
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