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Old 11-05-2013, 09:40 PM   #11926
motoged
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Re: Using side stand for mounting the beast....

I sometimes put the sidestand up first and locate myself near something several inches high to swing my leg over (rock, stump, curb, friends head)....in order to reduce the frequency of straining sidestand....or weld a tab onto the stand that your heel can contact when sitting on bike.
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Old 11-05-2013, 10:02 PM   #11927
mezcal
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Pic of my setup.
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Old 11-06-2013, 07:02 AM   #11928
777
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Injector removal

How easy is it to remove the injector with a Safari tank on, is their a link anywhere, thanks gents?
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Old 11-06-2013, 07:25 AM   #11929
B_palmer22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teli Rides View Post
This happened to me on a tar road on the way home, after doing a Gnarly single track and gravel roads.

When accelerating (not shifting) in 5th or 6th gear everything went fine until 5,000 rpm, after that if I twisted the throttle suddenly to WOT the engine speed went immediately to 8 K RPM (as if it were in neutral), but nothing happened immediately in the speed department, after a second the rpm's dropped to 6 k and the bike started to accelerate slower than expected. This can be a bit scary if you are overtaking with limited space. I had to be very smooth with my right hand in order to accelerate without the "rubber band effect".

After I stopped for gas, the effect condition seemed to go away, I couldn't test the acceleration under those circumstances (5th or 6th) more than once or twice, because traffic got heavy...

I have an '012 with 2,000 kms on the clock, I got a left over some months back. The dealer "had" to replace the whole top end under warranty at 1,000k.
I'm still not sure about that one as the bike ran fine when I left it for the first service. (I have changed dealer since then)

Any insight will be greatly appreciated
Its a false neutral. My 690 gets them fairly frequenly if you dont give it really positive upshifts. Try lowering the shifter one notch.
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Old 11-06-2013, 07:33 AM   #11930
TheMuffinMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B_palmer22 View Post
Its a false neutral. My 690 gets them fairly frequently if you dont give it really positive upshifts. Try lowering the shifter one notch.
Gotta show these bikes you mean to shift! I also find that the false neutrals get more prevalent the closer I get to oil change time.
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:04 AM   #11931
DirtJack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biped View Post
Yup, probably the difference between 15 and 25 psi tire pressure.
Way less than the difference between running a T63 rear and a Scorpion Rally. Stand the Scorpion Rally next to almost any other rear to see that it is a bit larger.
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Old 11-06-2013, 09:26 AM   #11932
AccelRus MaxiMus
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Kouba (or other) Lowering Links

Not sure, but is the concern about ride height change
from the lowering link not really a bit of an aside ?

No offense intended ! :)

A number of responses re daily weight variations (pre
or post big dump), seating position (fore or aft) tires
sizes, and/or air pressure making larger changes than
the 3/8" drop

Certainly changing only one end of the bike up or down
upsets suspension balance - I would think raising the
forks through the triples to equalize to the lowered rear
would restore the bikes balance with minimal changes to
wheelbase or other geometry (trail would change minimally
if both ends went down the same amount)

I would expect a 3/8" loss of ground clearance

One issue with the lowered rear (even with lowered front
to balance it out) is the swing arm angle - which is quite
important in relation to traction, and tire bite (road racers
know this well) - lowering the rear via the suspension (or
link) means less swingarm angle - generally a bad thing...

Perhaps larger underlying issue of importance is the change
to the suspension leverage caused by a shorter rear
suspension link

Changes to the link produces a change in the leverage of
the swingarm working against the rear spring/shock - and
in the rate of speed the shock/spring moves for unit of
deflection (up or down) at the rear wheel - effectively
changes spring rate seen by forces at the rear wheel

Question is whether the present rear shocks (stock or
otherwise) are able to work as effectively (maybe better ??)
with a link of different length...

Saw some discussion on this on the NZ forum a while back,
(2010) see post #22 at the link below - he was using an
1' 1/8" drop link

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...dventure/page2

No idea where the OP there got the data for the chart below,
but interesting read for sure...



Illuminates some of the potential issue with changing
out for a shorter rear link

For those that are swapping in the shorter link (dad2bike,
The Letter J) maybe post up what you do/don't notice
about the bike with the new link !

We have 2 x 13 690's here and one will be getting a < EDIT >1"
lowering link (shorter rider needs the room) - not sure I will
have a direct comparison (both bikes getting set up for a
different rider weight) but will know a bit more about this
in a couple of months

AccelRus MaxiMus screwed with this post 11-06-2013 at 11:21 AM
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Old 11-06-2013, 09:37 AM   #11933
jm65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mezcal View Post
Pic of my setup.
hi Mezcal

What is the bracket triple clamp for steering stabilizer in your bike ?

thanks
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Old 11-06-2013, 10:20 AM   #11934
dad2bike
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AccelRus MaxiMus View Post
Not sure, but is the concern about ride height change
from the lowering link not really a bit of an aside ?

No offense intended ! :)

A number of responses re daily weight variations (pre
or post big dump), seating position (fore or aft) tires
sizes, and/or air pressure making larger changes than
the 3/8" drop

Certainly changing only one end of the bike up or down
upsets suspension balance - I would think raising the
forks through the triples to equalize to the lowered rear
would restore the bikes balance with minimal changes to
wheelbase or other geometry (trail would change minimally
if both ends went down the same amount)

I would expect a 3/8" loss of ground clearance

One issue with the lowered rear (even with lowered front
to balance it out) is the swing arm angle - which is quite
important in relation to traction, and tire bite (road racers
know this well) - lowering the rear via the suspension (or
link) means less swingarm angle - generally a bad thing...

Perhaps larger underlying issue of importance is the change
to the suspension leverage caused by a shorter rear
suspension link

Changes to the link produces a change in the leverage of
the swingarm working against the rear spring/shock - and
in the rate of speed the shock/spring moves for unit of
deflection (up or down) at the rear wheel - effectively
changes spring rate seen by forces at the rear wheel

Question is whether the present rear shocks (stock or
otherwise) are able to work as effectively (maybe better ??)
with a link of different length...

Saw some discussion on this on the NZ forum a while back,
(2010) see post #22 at the link below - he was using an
1' 1/8" drop link

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...dventure/page2

No idea where the OP there got the data for the chart below,
but interesting read for sure...



Illuminates some of the potential issue with changing
out for a shorter rear link

For those that are swapping in the shorter link (dad2bike,
The Letter J) maybe post up what you do/don't notice
about the bike with the new link !

We have 2 x 13 690's here and one will be getting a 1 3/8
lowering link (shorter rider needs the room) - not sure I will
have a direct comparison (both bikes getting set up for a
different rider weight) but will know a bit more about this
in a couple of months
Thanks for the input.
My son picked up the link at the Post Office today. I'll be putting it on this weekend.

I have run the 1-5/8" original link , the 1" link and now the stock link.
I had forgotten about my rebound/compression adjustments during the process. I was really screwed up and very harsh initial impact.

My set up will be very interesting as I will also be swapping out the forks for my 2003 EXC forks. It will be interesting to see how this changes my handling. I don't expect to notice much rear difference with only 3/8" drop. I don't recall much felling difference between the stock and 1". I just noticed ground clearance issues. I also have a Center stand. That requires me to get as much clearance as I can.
With me being in the extra chunky boy club and short 28" inseam I have to really swing to get my leg high enough to get over my tailbag. I'm NOT always successful to the delight of those around watching the ensuing comedy prat fall.

I'm figuring to like the extra long front end geometry. I used to love my old 80's Husky 390. The smoothest bike I knew then at high speed bumpy roads.
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Old 11-06-2013, 10:22 AM   #11935
wsmc831
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If you are putting on forks from an 03, what are you doing about the caliper/rotor difference?
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Old 11-06-2013, 10:44 AM   #11936
dad2bike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wsmc831 View Post
If you are putting on forks from an 03, what are you doing about the caliper/rotor difference?
I'll be looking at all that this weekend. From my initial look the Caliper bracket will move to the EXC forks. The bracket moves the caliper out to the larger position. It is the speedo pick up that I will have to do a temporary fix for until I can order in the RR kit.
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Old 11-06-2013, 10:46 AM   #11937
LukasM
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Speedo mount is the only difference, everything else will swap right over, including wheel with disc, caliper with bracket, fork guards, etc.
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Old 11-06-2013, 10:47 AM   #11938
wsmc831
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Hope it works...I thought about putting on my nice forks from my now dead 530, but the difference in caliper size and spacing differences stopped me before I got all that interested.

Post up results.
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Old 11-06-2013, 10:56 AM   #11939
LukasM
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530 forks will work, too.

The hole spacing and offset on the axle clamp side is 95mm on all 48mm USD forks that came with an axial Brembo twin piston caliper, just bolt on your 690 caliper with bracket + RR speedo sensor mount and you'll be good to go.
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Old 11-06-2013, 11:18 AM   #11940
Uller
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Location: Arlington, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AccelRus MaxiMus View Post
Saw some discussion on this on the NZ forum a while back,
(2010) see post #22 at the link below - he was using an
1' 1/8" drop link

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...dventure/page2
Thanks for the link. That was an interesting discussion on lowering links.

I liked this bit, "Sorry to sound like a stuck record but these things are over-hyped as a magic bullet bolt-on solution, such that people are quite happy to part with their cash for them without really investigating the negatives and/or alternatives. Friends don't let friends do lowering links! "

This was interesting too, "Thanks for posting Mr Kouba's reply. I was really interested to see that he completely ignored the "loss of rising rate effect". I think that this may be key and that you will find that your rear suspension bottoms out much more easily than you want."
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