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Old 01-16-2014, 03:46 PM   #13426
Velociraptor
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Not sure the 690 will ever be as plush as the 500 due to the extra weight, but with the fork extension kit and the Tractive Rally shock, the word "plush" does sometimes seep into my brain
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Old 01-16-2014, 04:03 PM   #13427
crankshaft OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudguts View Post
Scared of heights , not today having a heat wave 45*c + but I'll get some video of the suspension on weekend of a really good bike going really slow cause the rider is crap

Check list
Vio sport helmet +
690 rally +
Rider with skill -


I have got my forks real nice SX TC .52 springs 350ml oil height SKF seal kit
I put my SXS forks on my Enduro race bike and took the standard 2011 CC forks and put them on my 690. The SXS forks are like butter on my 250, I can hit anything and they just suck it right up. A lot of guys around here still swear by the open chamber forks but a properly tuned CC fork is like heaven to me. I'm running a .52 also, works well.

I'm really picky about suspension now after feeling what really good suspension is like. I did the Cord enduro in Canada last year and if it wasn't for the suspension, I might not have made it. Here is a taste of what it was like...


That's not me by the way, I was probably going slower Made it to the end of the two day event and got a finishers medal and even put it on the box and won my class. Suspension is soooo important.
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Old 01-16-2014, 04:53 PM   #13428
cyborg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crankshaft View Post
You've been fighting this fight for awhile now Alex did say that the Tractive stuff is amazing and he's seen enough of it to know. Mudguts, can you post a picture of yourself getting a foot of air, so I can see how good your shock is
Alex (Konflict Motorsports) is local to me and Uller and is my suspension tuner and riding buddy too. He has done all 3 of my bikes 990/690/390. He does really great work on the OEM WP suspension to make it so much nicer. Alex has recently come up with a new fork tuning mod I informally call 'Martens Magic Mod', but it's a new mod he has developed that he says transforms even forks he has already reworked into an even better configuration. Call it Stage 2 perhaps, but it's supposed to be "like butter" as Crank says, rail the whoops faster and under control, and even more compliant/plush in the first few inches of stroke. I can't comment directly on it yet because I just had it done on the 690 and 390 just based on what Alex told me and need to re-install the forks and go riding, but I take his word for it, he always does what he says. Looking forward to testing it!
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Old 01-16-2014, 05:30 PM   #13429
The Letter J
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Location: Santa Maria, CA
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Originally Posted by Hoots View Post
Can't say that I follow your logic ...

Your question was about the rear shock and yet the information you've just been given by Letter J is about the forks ...

You say you've already got 300mm forks and prefer them, so how can that meshes with what Letter J just told you about his preference for fully dialled in 275mm travel ...

Velociraptor seemed to be saying that there was a marked improvement with the Tractive shock over the Ohlins - ie 100% improvement over stock versus 30-40% - what is your interpretation of that ... ?

I suggest you temporarily enable PMs and ask Yellow Pig what he thinks about the whole RR set-up ...

I'm also quite keen to better understand how good the total RR set-up is ...
My response was in regards to the forks AND the WP shock. The ONLY reason that I ditched the 300mm travel in the forks to return to 275mm was to make the thing turn... handled a bit like a dump truck in back to back tight turns when on the throttle. It was never an issue in open terrain.

The shim stacks that I have written down are for the rear WP shock. The CC fork is pretty well known among tuners so nobody should have trouble getting that dialed in. The stock Open Chamber forks (even after getting 300mm travel and playing with the valves) still can't touch a CC fork in performance on big hits, so I'd rather have less travel in the CC than more in the OC if that makes sense to you. I'd really prefer to have 300 front and 335 rear like most MX bikes, but for the kind of money that it will take to get front and rear suspension to play nice together I could buy a well sorted YZ450F that will destroy the 690 offroad! Hence the buttload of bikes that cycle (get it?) through my garage.
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Old 01-16-2014, 05:41 PM   #13430
Mudguts
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I should pull my finger out and build the vacuum rig I've been planing to do for about 4 years cost should be under $500 have one shock for playing with the other (current one in use ) as base setting
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Old 01-16-2014, 05:44 PM   #13431
The Letter J
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudguts View Post
My tuner got 287mm / 3.4 mm of shaft out of my shock worth yes want those extra 13mm yes, every mm counts
How much travel does the shock itself stroke? Not wheel travel, just shock shaft? I'm pretty sure I'm done chasing the extra travel just kind of curious to see how everyone's claimed travel compares to actual shock travel.

On a somewhat related note:

I've got a truck with 19" of front wheel travel that now handles worse than it did with 14"-15". I should have just left well enough alone and used the damned thing instead of getting caught up in wheel travel wars with all the flatbiller trucks in the desert, the 690 is faster than almost all of them with 11"!
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Old 01-16-2014, 05:51 PM   #13432
Mudguts
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[QUOTE=The Letter J;23240135]My response was in regards to the forks AND the WP shock. The ONLY reason that I ditched the 300mm travel in the forks to return to 275mm was to make the thing turn... handled a bit like a dump truck in back to back tight turns when on the throttle. It was never an issue in open terrain

Too late now but you could have used an adjustable axle or different offset triple clamps to get the geometry back 20/22 triples would have done the job .


Mine is super planted at 150kph on ruff dirt roads but as you know a bit of a boat in the tighter stuff as with every thing on a bike that is so versatile their will always be compromise , my 500 light out handles the 690 in every way but have not rode it in 6 months
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Old 01-16-2014, 06:08 PM   #13433
Mudguts
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Ok there is 100 mm of shaft 70 mm to bump stop and bump to is 40mm but you loose 10mm with the shaft nut (under the bump stop ) so usable bumps top is really 30mm till metal on metal I believe the linkage ratio is 3-1 so usable shaft is 91mm which put you smack in the middle of the bump stop
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Old 01-16-2014, 08:07 PM   #13434
ArcticRider
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Location: Alaska, Costa Rica
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadracer_Al View Post
If my automotive repair experience is any indicator, the OEM part is the best quality part you can get for the application.
I used to think that OEM was the same as Original Equipment until I owned an Audi and had 2 OEM T-belt Hydraulic Tensioners fail very prematurely.

Then I learned OEM is not the same thing as a part which has the 4-rings stamped on it.

Cheers
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Old 01-16-2014, 09:32 PM   #13435
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"Original equipment manufacturer" is just whoever originally made the product. Many times aftermarket can be superior to oem parts. If the original part is crap it doesn't mean that ordering another is wrong. They may have made slight changes and it will still be considered oem. Just my two pennies.
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Old 01-16-2014, 11:10 PM   #13436
AccelRus MaxiMus
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Crankshaft - I am knee deep in my re-wire
job and wondering if you know where you
got the connector inserts for the ECU when
you did your wiring ?

I have found all the other connectors I
need, but those pins are unique, and not
available from KTM - nor are the connectors...

These are the ones...



They are essentially the female sockets for the
pins on the ECU's.

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Old 01-17-2014, 02:40 AM   #13437
Mudguts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AccelRus MaxiMus View Post
Crankshaft - I am knee deep in my re-wire
job and wondering if you know where you
got the connector inserts for the ECU when
you did your wiring ?

I have found all the other connectors I
need, but those pins are unique, and not
available from KTM - nor are the connectors...

These are the ones...



They are essentially the female sockets for the
pins on the ECU's.

When I rewrite a plug I use new matching pins it more work but a better job

So new male & female pin you can get them easy
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Old 01-17-2014, 02:50 AM   #13438
johnno950
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
The 690 was designed around the ergonomics of an orangutan. If you have very short legs and very long arms you will love the stock riding position. It will also help if you have an ass made from steel.

As a tall rider with short arms (T rex) I fitted taller bars and a riser along with lower pegs and an aftermarket seat.
got a good laugh out of that post!!
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Old 01-17-2014, 04:24 AM   #13439
TheMuffinMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
The 690 was designed around the ergonomics of an orangutan. If you have very short legs and very long arms you will love the stock riding position. It will also help if you have an ass made from steel.

As a tall rider with short arms (T rex) I fitted taller bars and a riser along with lower pegs and an aftermarket seat.
So true. I have shorter legs but short freaking arms (tall torso), I needed a large rise in the bars to make them comfortable.
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Old 01-17-2014, 05:02 AM   #13440
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnno950 View Post
got a good laugh out of that post!!
Hey now, don't be laughing at us orangutans! We're very sensitive that our knuckles drag the ground.
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