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Old 09-15-2011, 01:50 PM   #16
kellymac530 OP
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sh0rty, I feel the same way. Stude's came as big as 2 1/2 ton for both commercial and military applications but you rarely ever see a big one on the road. I am planning on keeping it a heavy duty model. I may not keep that old style split center rear end simply because of parts and rebuild ability of it. I doubt I will use the stock spring packs cause they look trashed, but I will replace what I have to with 1 ton type components. I wish I could find a rear axle with that huge 6 bolt lug pattern. Not sure if that is a reality tho.

I seem to remember some of the old Grumman trucks like UPS vehichles were a large 6 bolt pattern, maybe I can find something for one of those I can adapt. I will try to see if that stock rear end is useable first, but I have my concerns with most of the components...I will try to keep it true to its origins but not likely all original Stude stuff.
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Old 09-16-2011, 08:09 AM   #17
bmwhacker
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When I was 14 I drove a 1947 Studebaker Truck (not this one) hauling grain for the local elevator. If I remember (I also drove a early International) it had a windshield crank and you could crank open the bottom of the windshield for ventilation.
An unsynchronized gear box made for some pretty fancy clutch work to catch the gears. I got really good at it and seldom "ground" a gear. I think it had a flathead 6. Those old flatheads were bullet proof. I remember the oil pressure would sit at 6-7 lbs. when the engine was hot at idle. With the 2 speed rear axle in High, she would easily run 45 mph with a load of grain. Stopping quickly was a real white knuckle experience.
I could barely see over the steering wheel.
I made a whopping $2.00 an hour which was damn good for 1970.
Paid for my 1967 Camaro SS350 that summer.

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Old 09-19-2011, 11:36 AM   #18
sh0rtlife
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to be honest as much as i love my hondas..my real tallents lay in vintage iron fabrication...i "had" a 47 for 1 1/2 ton..aka 6 ton axles..i stilll have the axle and intend to build a rat around them useing a willys pu body stretched and chopped to hell and back

your right about some of the old grumans and such....im not entirely sure youle find anything in the right pattern but honestly if you could get both the FRONT and REAR from a 80s or 90s gruman your going to gain better brakes and keep the look as the grumans had an i beam upfront maybe even disc's?......and since your doing the spring packs.....just seems to make sense to me......depending on what you do for an engine...gearing may be your only real fight...
.im no purist but depending on what its got in it id likely run that engine or if your going to change it...do yourself a favor and pick something somewhat unique......IE dont just go chevy 350 350 ..ugh so sick of that crap its played out and BORING they all sound and look the same...personaly if i was to change the engine id likely go with a IH diesel or older IH inline for that application...actualy i wonder what a grumans got under the hood...hmmmm

speaking of IH..some of there smaller big trucks (uhaul/ryder)would also do for keeping a large pattern and i beam but going mildly updated..so would some of the 70s and 80s ford uhauls....also the gmc topkicks tho i think they had a 8 lug instead...and imo once you drop the lugnut size it looks like its a 3/4 ton with big wheels
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Old 09-19-2011, 01:18 PM   #19
jbcaddy
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I picked up an Isuzu NPR to remotor my '47. 235 c.i. 4 cyl diesel w/5spd. the '47 has a flathead six and there isn't much room in the engine compartment. I plan on using the axels also. disc brake front on an I beam. still have not figured out the steering, as the Suzy is cabover and the steering shaft is near verticle out of the box. lots of small trucks are out there rather cheap as the new smog rules mean they are no longer compliant. our old trucks don't have to worry about that so far
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Old 09-20-2011, 02:05 AM   #20
sh0rtlife
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id be willing to bet in that case you could use your old stock box...or even go with a dodge/chevy 4x4 powersteering box..the 70s 80s and early 90s were shared dodge and chev...good solid unit with plenty of power to turn a set of 35s
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Old 09-20-2011, 05:08 PM   #21
vtwin
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Nice 1-ton, I really like the less popular trucks, Studes, Intl, Willys, COEs rock also.
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Old 09-20-2011, 09:55 PM   #22
kellymac530 OP
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SHorty, NOT gonna get a typical small block in this puppy...no way. The lump it has in it now looks like I may be able to get it running, at least at my first inspections. No water or goey sludge in any component. Still need to pull the valve covers and do some inspection and a compression test later this week, but so far so good. The lump in it is a 232 cu in Stude v8 out of a later model Lark or something. Very cool to me if I can salvage that motor. Not gonna spend a fortune on it just to salvage it, but I will give it hell to try and use it. If I just cant get it running...it will probably be a Blue Flame L6 or something like that just because they are cool, cheap, readily available, and lots of cool hot rod stuff like offy intakes with multiple carbs, blowers, headers....and they just sound bitchen with a cherry bomb glass pack on them.

I drained the rearend and the oil was in great shape!! No water or rust in the oil at all. Obviously I cant actually see much of the gears because of the split center pumpkin with no cover, but looking thru the drain and fill plug holes and seeing the condition of the oil, I truely feel the rear end is 100% useable. I also pulled an axle and the brake drum, they looked GREAT. A light turn and the drum will be fine {I have a brake lathe at my avail} even the shoes look fully useable as well as the hardware. They just need a good cleaning and maybe a bit of sanding up. All of the rubber parts like the wheel cylinder boots and cups are just gone but that is expected.

Now it is just dig into the trans oil and get into the motor....

BTW, while I like the idea of a more modern front axle...no disc brakes for me! Then remeber, this is a C cab and not very wide so a Grumman or Top Kick or IH uhaul truck style front end will be WAY too wide, and I am not comfy cutting and welding a front axle. If the front end is anything like the rear, I am sure it will be fine. As to brakes, If they are scary, I will add a booster or some other type of MC and wheel cylinders combo to help improve them.
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Old 09-21-2011, 02:09 AM   #23
sh0rtlife
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sweeet someone after my own heart on the RIGHT way to build something!!!!....i paid hell talking myself into going disc on the front of my 58 ford custom300 but the drums even for the day were too small...i kept the 312 non syncro 3spd with od

i only tossed the "slighty" modern stuff up cause no one useualy thinks about keeping the ibeam and useualy you find it with basicaly a new f350 under it or motorhome stuff...actualy...come to think of it you might keep your eye out for the 70's ibeam MH setups if the brakes are too scary...they really arnt that wide......ive got a early 70s dodge sitting on the farm i should measure up...i intend to build an l-600 out of it using a modified a-108

id be VERY supprised if you cant salvage pretty well everything save for the wheel cyl's and brake/fuel lines and probably the fuel tank....they built em to last back then...however on the wheel cyl's if you cant save em you should be able to hone em out to something you can get cups for....if its got lines the size my 47 ford stuff is im actualy thinking DUAL mc's...seems like the only solution...i really doubt the brakes will be all that scary unless you plan to load it down like it was intended....oh..and if you cant find brake shoes..contact otts friction supply they can pretty well make you brakes and clutches so long as you have all the metal parts..and a fraction of the price of new stuff "if" anyone stocked it LOL

ill definatly be watching this one
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Old 09-21-2011, 12:11 PM   #24
kellymac530 OP
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On track width, my truck from center of tire to center of tire is only about 60" + or- 1/2" {hard to tell with this old and trashed out tires} and the track width of late 60's and up pickup trucks run 65-70" I doubt any MH or box truck will be narrow enough since I wanna keep the tires tucked under the stock wells.

I think the stock front axle may work fine. The more I am digging in to this thing the better it looks. So far everything I have fiddled with seems in working order...other than rubber bits.

Check out my new thread I am posting on brake ratios that I need help with. Maybe some of you will have answers for me.

Thanx again guys pics to come soon.
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Old 09-21-2011, 06:04 PM   #25
sh0rtlife
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considering how low of miles most farm trucks see...and how much time is spent just sitting...it doesnt really suprise me that its in that good of shape really..and id bet there is probably no slop in the king pins either
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Old 09-24-2011, 05:31 PM   #26
kellymac530 OP
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Update

Well I have been digging in. The odo reads 70089. It was a straight 6, I believe a flat head, now has been converted to a V8. The guys on the studebaker forums think it is a 232ci but there is still some question, looking for serial numbers on the block today. The diff is in great shape. Front and rear brakes seem great, outside of any rubber parts of course.

The coolest news is that the trans is in perfect condition. An added plus is that it is a factory overdrive unit. The truck has a 3 on the tree but there is a splitter on the rear end of the trans that technically makes it a 6 speed....But that is a very tricky driving experience I hear. If nothing else it is an overdrive that makes it a 4 speed that top gear is actually overdriven.

I have drained all of the fluids from all units, diff, trans, OD, and engine and there wasn't a spot of rust or a drop of water in any one of them...good news.

The mixed news is that I pulled the valve covers and the top end is very sludgey. Bad from the stand point of having sludge in the motor which can clog oil passages and starve areas of lubrication and potentially cause a failure. Good from the satnd point that all parts are nicely covered with a coat of oily sludge and has prevented ANY rust from forming on anything I can find. Even the inside of the valve covers, which are notorious for holding condensation and rusting inside on barn find vehichles, are completely coated with a film of oily sludge and NO rust.

Anyone know a good product for removing sludge from a valve train?

I had to laugh a bit. After shop vacing out all of the sticks and leaves and mouse nests from the interior and the engine compartment and under the open plenum on the intake manifold, I start to fiddle with things just sorting thru things and the throttle plate wouldnt rotate so I squirt all of the linkage with some PB blaster and shoot some down the carb venturi. I was not on a stool so I could not look straight down the carb. I let it sit a bit and try to rotate the butterflies again, nothing, so I get on a stool and look down the venturi...guess what, yep another mouse nest packed into the carb....damn mice..
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:15 PM   #27
sh0rtlife
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LOL 10-1 odds are rthe muffler will blow when its fired...too many times ive see those as one HUGE nest...ive actualy seen nests INSIDE the engine...1 open valve on a big enuf engine and..well you guessed it urinated piston...sad shame

as for the sludge..theres alot of good chemicals out there.....take a pic and toss it up..id like to see how bad it is.....if its not crazy bad id actuay probably run som marvle thru it a few times while running and do some oil changes and forget about it...modern oil will break alot of that down
if its crazy bad?...id pull the pan and then hose down everything you can get at with some diesel to start loosening it all up..then blast it with some brake clean and then more diesel..after that it will probably be pretty clean....


70k miles..wow...thats ALOT for a farm truck ...but for something over 50 years old thats crazy low..LOL

WICKED news finding out shes got a splitter on the case...yes they are tricky to master but once mastered are quite fun to drive.......

the fast that the butterflys still open on a nested up setup like that...your VERY lucky!!!
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:18 PM   #28
jbcaddy
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I'm suprised to hear of a three on the tree. most trucks of that GVW had 4spd trannys. drove a Chevy with a 4 and 2spd rear, don't remember all the details now, but you will master it quickly I am sure. Jan
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Old 09-25-2011, 11:08 AM   #29
JonnyCash
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbcaddy View Post
I picked up an Isuzu NPR to remotor my '47. 235 c.i. 4 cyl diesel w/5spd. the '47 has a flathead six and there isn't much room in the engine compartment. I plan on using the axels also. disc brake front on an I beam. still have not figured out the steering, as the Suzy is cabover and the steering shaft is near verticle out of the box. lots of small trucks are out there rather cheap as the new smog rules mean they are no longer compliant. our old trucks don't have to worry about that so far
I'd really like to see how this turns out. I have been contemplating a similar setup. Cool old truck with historic plates with a somewhat modern small diesel transplant. Perfect!
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Old 09-28-2011, 08:05 PM   #30
sh0rtlife
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toss up some more pic's!!!!!


do your axles look anything like ...THESE buggers of mine?


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