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Old 09-26-2011, 11:03 AM   #61
larryboy OP
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Location: On a set of 50,000 mile tires.
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Aftermarket suspension tuners are also going for a full soft ride, I'm not. I'll probably go with longer pre-load spacers to get it to coil bind before the engine hits the ground.

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Old 09-26-2011, 11:44 AM   #62
Poolside
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Sorry to bother you.


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Old 09-26-2011, 12:09 PM   #63
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Sorry to bother you.



Oh come on, Jim. Didn't mean to hurt your feelers, sorry.


I mean lets think about it, nothing has changed except the bike lost 100 pounds. If the engine wasn't supposed to be a stressed member, then why do they still build them that way? I can't believe that the original design of the front suspension works at all with those little struts that the coil hangs on to keep the whole front end from hinging over on itself.
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:52 AM   #64
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Hey Poolside, I found a degree wheel on the 'net. I'll cut a hole for the crank snout and bolt it to the front cover, should work pretty good. Once I find 60* BTDC I'll mark a flywheel tooth so it's easy to find.




Also found some diamond scrap to make a center stand skidplate, I'll weld tabs to the stand and bolt the plate on.

Made up some shim blocks for the front seat mounts, about 3/8" taller than stock. I'll probably pull the tank pads off since they don't match the lines of the seat now.

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Old 09-28-2011, 11:49 AM   #65
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Curious about your front fender options ....

Universal from UFO, haven't put it on yet because I don't want welding spatter on it:




Headlights just got here:

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Old 09-28-2011, 09:27 PM   #66
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Rob......Just.........
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Old 09-28-2011, 11:10 PM   #67
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Rob......Just.........

Thanks, having fun with it.


Finally got an email back from SuperPlush, .49 is about as stiff as I can go with these forks. I could cut a few coils to increase the rate, then take up the room with longer spacers if needed. I should be pretty close with the .49 rate I think, this is a two-up dirt sight seeing bike, close is good enough.
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Old 09-29-2011, 07:01 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by larryboy View Post

Hey Poolside, I found a degree wheel on the 'net. I'll cut a hole for the crank snout and bolt it to the front cover, should work pretty good. Once I find 60* BTDC I'll mark a flywheel tooth so it's easy to find.

Excellent idea, attaching that degree wheel to the front cover.

How are you with a small soldering iron? You'll need to solder a resistor, LED, and a couple of wires together.

More whiteboard stuff:

Check the balance on the front hub. Maybe roll it on a hard level flat surface to see if it is already balanced. You know, see if it has a heavy spot.

You'll be removing 15 of metal from the 'timing window', which will change the balance. At thousands of RPM, that imbalance will make a buzz. If the hub is already balanced, then re-balancing it will be simple enough.

To check for a heavy spot, rolling the hub on a glass plate would be ideal. Many surfaces are not perfectly level. Use a ball bearing to determine the direction of the slope of the surface. Then roll the hub on a path perpendicular to the slope. That way the slope doesn't influence the balance check.


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Old 09-29-2011, 07:09 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside View Post
Excellent idea, attaching that degree wheel to the front cover.

How are you with a small soldering iron? You'll need to solder a resistor, LED, and a couple of wires together.

More whiteboard stuff:

Check the balance on the front hub. Maybe roll it on a hard level flat surface to see if it is already balanced. You know, see if it has a heavy spot.

You'll be removing 15 of metal from the 'timing window', which will change the balance. At thousands of RPM, that imbalance will make a buzz. If the hub is already balanced, then re-balancing it will be simple enough.

To check for a heavy spot, rolling the hub on a glass plate would be ideal. Many surfaces are not perfectly level. Use a ball bearing to determine the direction of the slope of the surface. Then roll the hub on a path perpendicular to the slope. That way the slope doesn't influence the balance check.

Damn you are smart!

Jim
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:13 PM   #70
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:16 PM   #71
larryboy OP
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Location: On a set of 50,000 mile tires.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside View Post
Excellent idea, attaching that degree wheel to the front cover.

How are you with a small soldering iron? You'll need to solder a resistor, LED, and a couple of wires together.

More whiteboard stuff:

Check the balance on the front hub. Maybe roll it on a hard level flat surface to see if it is already balanced. You know, see if it has a heavy spot.

You'll be removing 15 of metal from the 'timing window', which will change the balance. At thousands of RPM, that imbalance will make a buzz. If the hub is already balanced, then re-balancing it will be simple enough.

To check for a heavy spot, rolling the hub on a glass plate would be ideal. Many surfaces are not perfectly level. Use a ball bearing to determine the direction of the slope of the surface. Then roll the hub on a path perpendicular to the slope. That way the slope doesn't influence the balance check.


I need to pick up a new iron as mine croaked awhile back, but I can melt solder.

I've got the hub on the desk in front of me and the timing gap is right across from what I now know is the balance window on the front...learn something new every day!! Makes perfect sense now that you mention it, won't be any problem to balance it out!!
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:23 PM   #72
larryboy OP
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Originally Posted by Garthe View Post





Yellow fork boots got here today. Figured out the exhaust and started building that.

Buddy came over and did a VIN verification on my non-plated XRR, I might have to jump on that for a day so I can get a lamp inspection done...I miss not thumping.

Looks like we're getting a break in the weather soon, that's one of the hottest Septembers I can remember since living here...July and August were pretty nice for a change.
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:15 AM   #73
Nixels
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Not bad...

For a guy with a headache.

Looks like it's coming together nicely Rob.

Now get some studded leather, spike heeled boots, dye your hair, put on that special Motley Crue facepaint and ride that thing to WMRS next year!


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Old 09-30-2011, 12:17 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by larryboy View Post

Hey Poolside, I found a degree wheel on the 'net. I'll cut a hole for the crank snout and bolt it to the front cover, should work pretty good. Once I find 60* BTDC I'll mark a flywheel tooth so it's easy to find.
A couple more things about that. The Hall sensor plate must be in place during the hub modification. The paper degree wheel must account for that.

The Hall sensor is adjusted before the paper degree wheel is attached. After the degree wheel is attached you will not need access to the sensor screws.

I don't know if you plan to use the degree wheel with a scribed-line pointer on the hub. If you do, the above will be relevant.



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Old 09-30-2011, 12:28 PM   #75
larryboy OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside View Post
A couple more things about that. The Hall sensor plate must be in place during the hub modification. The paper degree wheel must account for that.

The Hall sensor is adjusted before the paper degree wheel is attached. After the degree wheel is attached you will not need access to the sensor screws.

I don't know if you plan to use the degree wheel with a scribed-line pointer on the hub. If you do, the above will be relevant.



I was thinking of using the degree wheel to find 60 BTDC, making a pointer, then getting the degree wheel out of the way.

You lead, I'll follow.

Gotta run to work.

Still waiting on carb manifolds and the ignition box, I hope Volker didn't forget me.
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