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Old 09-30-2011, 02:23 PM   #76
Poolside
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post

I was thinking of using the degree wheel to find 60 BTDC, making a pointer, then getting the degree wheel out of the way.

You lead, I'll follow.
Well I don't know, we're both doing a little of both. You're the guy doing the work over there, I'm taking cues from you as well.

About the degree wheel and pointer and related, you get it just fine. I didn't know how far you were going with that paper degree wheel. One mark at 60 BTDC is enough.

Whiteboard stuff:

- I think BMW sells what they call a 'repair plug' that plugs into the Hall sensor cable. That will save you from cutting the connector from the factory harness, or conversely, cutting the connector off the sensor cable and splicing the wires directly.

- This ignition system uses only one of the Hall sensors. That leaves the other sensor that might be used as a backup. See if the sensor plate can be mounted 'upside down' to the front cover. This way, if the first sensor should fail, you can rotate the plate 180 degrees and use the second sensor.

- There's one more but I just forgot what it was


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Old 09-30-2011, 11:00 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside View Post
Well I don't know, we're both doing a little of both. You're the guy doing the work over there, I'm taking cues from you as well.

About the degree wheel and pointer and related, you get it just fine. I didn't know how far you were going with that paper degree wheel. One mark at 60 BTDC is enough.

Whiteboard stuff:

- I think BMW sells what they call a 'repair plug' that plugs into the Hall sensor cable. That will save you from cutting the connector from the factory harness, or conversely, cutting the connector off the sensor cable and splicing the wires directly.

- This ignition system uses only one of the Hall sensors. That leaves the other sensor that might be used as a backup. See if the sensor plate can be mounted 'upside down' to the front cover. This way, if the first sensor should fail, you can rotate the plate 180 degrees and use the second sensor.

- There's one more but I just forgot what it was


Yup, just using the degree wheel to find the 60 and mark it.

I'm cool with cutting the plug off the hall sensor and putting a new end on it. I have some ready made deutch connectors ready to go...two wires? I can make a three or more if needed.

Cool, a backup sensor!!


I'll work my tail off tomorrow, it's progress time. I'll have to mock up the carbs the best I can and get my final tubing welded in...still no manifolds, I think the shipping said Oct 6th as the latest delivery date.
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Old 10-01-2011, 12:35 AM   #78
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Forgive me for asking, but what are you gaining by doing the mods?
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Old 10-01-2011, 08:47 AM   #79
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Forgive me for asking, but what are you gaining by doing the mods?


$3,000 and a weight reduction of 149 pounds.
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Old 10-01-2011, 09:43 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post

I'm cool with cutting the plug off the hall sensor and putting a new end on it. I have some ready made deutch connectors ready to go...two wires? I can make a three or more if needed.
And I support that kind of initiative. The thing is the sensor cable is shielded, and for many reasons it would be better to break the shield after the connector than before. The primary reason is you'll then have a known-good timing input to work with. And to both our advantage, troubleshooting from 400 miles away is something I'd like to limit. If I was there, well, it'd be a different story

149 pounds? Wow!


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Old 10-01-2011, 09:48 AM   #81
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Thumb

Will we see this bike in another Death Valley ride report
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Old 10-01-2011, 09:56 AM   #82
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That RF shielded stuff, Jim? I can get some of that. Probably easier to just change the end, I can do weatherpak too.


Yes, this bike is going to DV in six weeks for a shakedown, then I'll come home and get ready for the longer two up trip to DV.



Edit: Crizzap, thought I had a rotor and pads on the way from Beemer Boneyard, checked to see where it was and it seems I missed 5 steps out of their 35 step purchase system. Glad I looked...on the way now.
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larryboy screwed with this post 10-01-2011 at 10:04 AM
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Old 10-01-2011, 01:50 PM   #83
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Got some weld in bungs for the petcocks and the carb flanges today. Flanges are wrong, exactly the same size as the BMW ones...that earlier part number will get you replacement flanges for your BMW 1150 with EFI if you need them.

This is why I say I don't have time to being doing stuff twice, now I need to do hours of research looking for the right flanges...dangit.

Making good progress with the frame, pictures later.
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Old 10-01-2011, 05:59 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
Got some weld in bungs for the petcocks and the carb flanges today. Flanges are wrong, exactly the same size as the BMW ones...that earlier part number will get you replacement flanges for your BMW 1150 with EFI if you need them.

This is why I say I don't have time to being doing stuff twice, now I need to do hours of research looking for the right flanges...dangit.

Making good progress with the frame, pictures later.
Yabbut you got to go to the dealer and see shiny new bikes and Italian scooters.
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Old 10-01-2011, 06:04 PM   #85
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Yabbut you got to go to the dealer and see shiny new bikes and Italian scooters.

The dealer was alright...not sure what they're thinking with the pricing.


The loaded Super Tenere was at Cycle Gear...waay cool, that is the future.
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Old 10-01-2011, 06:12 PM   #86
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Ok todays progress...I'm having to estimate where the carbs will end up, which made me push this lower tube in further than I really wanted. I'll have to pull the whole frame for finish welding now as I can't get position on the back of this tube.




Just gonna post the pictures for now. I'll answer questions if they come up.















One more tube to put in on the left side, then I can plan the battery and coil mounting. Thinking about just welding panels in for the airbox, was really hoping to have the right flanges for full mockup, I'll just call Sudco on Monday...time is short.
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Old 10-01-2011, 06:20 PM   #87
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The more I look at it...I think I need to add one of these on each side, there is room under the seat since I shimmed the front about 1/2" higher.

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Old 10-03-2011, 04:34 AM   #88
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it might be more important to have a tube go to the bottom of the headstock to prevent it from twisting when cornering/braking.
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Old 10-03-2011, 09:17 AM   #89
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It's tied in at four places on the front, nothing else I can do there, besides...there aren't twisting forces there. I've done much more than any other conversion I've seen, it's safe.

Pretty much the only thing I could do to add any strength is do make sheetmetal panels to fill the spaces between the tubing and dimple die them.
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Old 10-03-2011, 09:19 AM   #90
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Sorry fella but what does dimple die mean?
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