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Old 10-01-2011, 06:20 PM   #91
larryboy OP
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The more I look at it...I think I need to add one of these on each side, there is room under the seat since I shimmed the front about 1/2" higher.

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Old 10-03-2011, 04:34 AM   #92
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it might be more important to have a tube go to the bottom of the headstock to prevent it from twisting when cornering/braking.
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Old 10-03-2011, 09:17 AM   #93
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It's tied in at four places on the front, nothing else I can do there, besides...there aren't twisting forces there. I've done much more than any other conversion I've seen, it's safe.

Pretty much the only thing I could do to add any strength is do make sheetmetal panels to fill the spaces between the tubing and dimple die them.
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Old 10-03-2011, 09:19 AM   #94
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Sorry fella but what does dimple die mean?
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Old 10-03-2011, 09:22 AM   #95
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It takes speed holes and makes them strong, very common in roll cages and race cars/trucks.

Here's how they do it:


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Old 10-03-2011, 11:59 AM   #96
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Ok, things are really coming together now!!

Igintion box from Germany has arrived. Much thanks to Poolside and Volker for figuring out what I need!!






Battery from herrhelmet here on the board arrived too, hard to believe that little thing has 410 CCA's.




Much thanks goes to Chad at Sudco for helping me pick out the right carb flange for my application. Unfortunate that they are out of stock, forced me to order from an ebay'er...time crunch, it won't break Sudco...hate to "use" them for the part number and expertise, but whaddya gonna do?


, just noticed my silly concert bracelet in the picture. I am completely destroyed from a night of pushing and shoving, gawd, what fun!!

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Old 10-03-2011, 01:01 PM   #97
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The timing box came with Kurven diagrams, 9 different settings. I had to look up "frühzündung", timing advance curve I think. I would probably benefit from some dyno tuning to see what curve is best?
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Old 10-03-2011, 08:33 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UngaWunga View Post
it might be more important to have a tube go to the bottom of the headstock to prevent it from twisting when cornering/braking.
Is this what you had in mind?

?
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:01 PM   #99
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Is this what you had in mind?

?

There is already a mid tube that serves the same function as what you drew in.

Here is what others have done, probably safe, but I've gone well beyond this example as I know myself and how I ride. I've more than doubled the strength of what you see here:

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Old 10-04-2011, 05:34 AM   #100
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That's cool, i was just trying to make sure i interpreted the suggestion correctly. It was a bit for you and also a bit for me to try and help my understanding of these things a little better.
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Old 10-04-2011, 07:36 AM   #101
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Looks good Larryboy. Yours looks roughly analogous to the HP2 trelllis. Keep up the pace, I'm following along to make one of my own soon based on an wrecked R1100RT. - Bob

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Old 10-04-2011, 11:24 PM   #102
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Thanks for the ideas, guys.

It all helps!! My main goal is safety and a margin of that.



Talking out loud, I think all the major stuff is inbound or here already. I haven't finalized the oil cool mounting yet and it looks like it will have to go on the forks below the headlights, so I might have to come up with a couple swivel fittings from Aeroquip to make that work right.
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Old 10-04-2011, 11:39 PM   #103
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Off topic, I'm a former HP 2 owner. It always bugged me that BMW had the sub-frame welded to the main frame. That bike was supposed to be a 'race bike' . They love to brag about their engineering. Then they pull a stunt like that, just to sell frames.
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Old 10-05-2011, 07:39 AM   #104
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Off topic, I'm a former HP 2 owner. It always bugged me that BMW had the sub-frame welded to the main frame. That bike was supposed to be a 'race bike' . They love to brag about their engineering. Then they pull a stunt like that, just to sell frames.

Cheaper to buy your own welder for repairs.
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Old 10-05-2011, 11:38 AM   #105
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Cheaper to buy your own welder for repairs.
You havn't seen my welding skills ...

My fix was selling the bike and buying another XRR .
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