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Old 09-22-2011, 10:32 AM   #46
supershaft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igormortis View Post
Appreciate that observation, supershaft. That's always been my gut feeling, but without anything to back it up. Other than the fact that BMW tooled up a different sized horn for a reason.

Any thoughts on a round filter fitted to the top of the flat airbox ala HPN rally bikes? Only good for outright power?
I came to that conclusion by doing back to back tests with all three setups and then some.

I have no experience with the HPN setup. I do think that one could come to a conclusion from all the performance upgrades out there for cars and whatever that round filters do have the potential to flow better than flat filters. It's what is above and underneath our flat filters that makes all the difference.
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Old 09-23-2011, 11:42 AM   #47
nick_rhinocycles OP
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Ok, how do I get the battery box out?

Those rubber mounted bolts seem to be twisting inside...


...Edit...

Got it, you have to take off the nut closest to the frame.
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Old 09-23-2011, 11:50 AM   #48
supershaft
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Twist them some more and/or pull.
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Old 09-23-2011, 01:40 PM   #49
One Less Harley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick_rhinocycles View Post
Ok, how do I get the battery box out?

Those rubber mounted bolts seem to be twisting inside...


...Edit...

Got it, you have to take off the nut closest to the frame.
sounds like you're pulling the tranny!!
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Old 09-23-2011, 02:43 PM   #50
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Ok, so last night I worked late again trying to get this work project done.
Something that has been going on for months and it's just now wrapping up. But those loose ends keep dragging on.
It's burning me out.

So I'm doing the TAT.

But first I need to replace a simple switch on the bike.

Bur first I need ... to ... pull ... the ... transmission ...

Man, I think that just killed my momentum for a while. I got nothing done on the bike yesterday. Well, actually, one important thing got done.

I accepted the fact that I'm going to pull the Tranny.

So this morning I got up and got moving. Reading the docs, and being systematic.



















Hey look, I wonder... is that about Odyssey sized or what?







VERY close with the stock straps... hrm... wonder what to do there...?













Ok, break time.
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Old 09-23-2011, 03:05 PM   #51
SOLO LOBO
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You can cross the straps on the battery in an "X" shape to take up the slack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 09-23-2011, 04:26 PM   #52
supershaft
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Most put a spacer above or below the too short battery. It's yet another reason why I am still running wet cells. It's because they fit right and are held tight. A battery bouncing around in your box is a good way to a electrical fire! NEIN DANKA!

Man your airbox gives me the creeps. You are going to love seeing it remain spotless. If you don't put too much oil on a K+N and your are running your crank vent out like you are, it will stay dustless and oil free. Not even any grimy oil in the velocity stacks! Absolutely spotless! Your carbs will stay clean for it too. Not to mention your engine.
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Old 09-23-2011, 07:18 PM   #53
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Ok the final push

Here we go. Break time is over. Feeling good.

Off comes the Shock



Shock Hanging peacefully out of the way





Need to remove the Swing Arm Nuts, but I don't have the right size socket that is also thin walled.
Call "my buddy Jerry", and as soon as my back it turned he starts doing self portraits.
It seems wrong to leave them out.



Out with the Bearing Nut? Race Nuts?










Swing arm is free!






Free at last.




Someone should clean up this mess!



Following instructions....









The Final Two!




This is how it's done.


Opened a crack!





Now transmission-less.

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Old 09-23-2011, 10:36 PM   #54
supershaft
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Nick, I am really just trying to give some good advise so don't take this the wrong way but the next time you work on your bike wash it first. You will stay cleaner. Your lift will stay cleaner. Most importantly, the inside of your bike is a lot less likely to get dirt in it. Plus you will be able to see things more clearly such as cracks and broken tabs and whatnot. Maintaining a dirty bike really is half ass since it really does hide half of what you are suppose to be checking out.
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Old 09-24-2011, 05:31 PM   #55
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The spacer went back in just as easy as you please:





Rear Motor Mount went back in with very little fuss. I had left the frame spacers in place. Piece of cake.

Notice how the leaking oil pressure switch has created a mess.




Giving it a good bath. Much easier to reach everything with no battery box, swing arm, or transmission to get in your way!





Much Cleaner!






Ugh! The Parts Fairy Came again today.

I hope she stops this I'm going broke!





I'm almost at the point where I forgot why I took this bike apart in the first place....

The rollchart holder kind of brought me back to my senses.

Ok! Back at it!

Soon I have some decisions to make. Prepare yourselves!
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:48 PM   #56
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consider putting a 2x6 piece of wood next to the Odyssey Battery to take up the extra space. You can always take it out and shave parts of it for fire kindling. Also getting a Tupperware container the same size will work too. You can put a small electrical volt meter, electrical tape, fuses, etc.
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Old 09-24-2011, 11:52 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
...wash it first.
My bike looked startlingly similar over the weekend while I finally put the rebuilt gearbox in. Perhaps dirtier. I have been cleaning as I go though...

Good to see the advice re. the K&N. I binned mine after finding dirt making its way in past the bowed bit. But the subsequent paper one didn’t do well after a water crossing. Might have to try a new modified K&N.
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Old 09-25-2011, 12:06 AM   #58
supershaft
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Mind my advise about K+N's that have already been bowed. The rubber gets a memory and it is damn near impossible to get even a modified filter to not bow. I would try pulling the front of the filter forward some way for a week or two before you even install it to reverse the memory of it being bowed back. I hope that makes sense. Follow my advise about oiling it and washing it too and you will be very impressed! In the past I have found it easier to just get a new filter and start from scratch!
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Old 09-25-2011, 03:16 PM   #59
nick_rhinocycles OP
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Anyone know the torque value for the "Drive Shaft to Transmission-output Flange" Bolts?

My manual refers to them as "nuts" and say ~165LBs Which I do not think is correct.
Also, Loctite? I'm thinking "yes".

Thanks for you help here guys!
-Nick

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Old 09-25-2011, 03:40 PM   #60
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I loctite mine and just make them as tight as I can with the little 6" wrench in the tool kit. Mine's a monolever but they're the same bolts. I haven't lost a bolt in 70,000 very bumpy miles.

How are you going to torque them anyways? Do you have something to offset the torque wrench? I can't fit a socket in there. Heck, I can barely fit the bolt! JT Wind makes a little 12-point 10mm adapter to use a torque wrench but you have to do a little math since the added length means the actual torque won't be what's set on the wrench.
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