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Old 09-25-2011, 04:44 PM   #61
supershaft
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I think it's 28 to 32ftlbs. I guess you have a 10mm torque adapter? Go around a few times because the tight ones loosen as the others are tightened. No loctite needed if they are torqued correctly says my professional and personal experience.
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Old 09-25-2011, 04:53 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by bgoodsoil View Post
I loctite mine and just make them as tight as I can with the little 6" wrench in the tool kit. Mine's a monolever but they're the same bolts. I haven't lost a bolt in 70,000 very bumpy miles.

How are you going to torque them anyways? Do you have something to offset the torque wrench? I can't fit a socket in there. Heck, I can barely fit the bolt! JT Wind makes a little 12-point 10mm adapter to use a torque wrench but you have to do a little math since the added length means the actual torque won't be what's set on the wrench.
They are called torque adapters and you can get them from a variety of sources. Mine is Snap-On. If you angle the torque adapter 90 degrees you do not have to recalculate the value. I think most that have done it by hand will be surprised just how tight those are suppose to be. If they are as tight as called for, they don't come loose and they don't need loctite.
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Old 09-25-2011, 05:10 PM   #63
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Thanks for the response guys.

I need to seriously motate on this thing today and get it back in action.
I have almost 2 weeks until my departure, but my wife will be gone for some of that time, which means I have kid duty.
No way anything gets done then.

So here's what I did last night, Some light cleaning. Then I realized I'm cleaning the bottom of my transmission! WTF?:






Old Versus new:


Here's the shaft as it came apart:



Completely paranoid about putting too much grease on this thing. Not much seemed to be on it, so very little went back on.



New Switch installed:



Now I need to test it and make sure
1. The switch works
2. I hooked up the wires correctly


Of course the battery, and Box, etc. all had to be re-installed.


Htm.... No light...



Ok, Looks like it is in gear afterall...



So... need to put the shifter back on etc... And:


Bingo!

Reminder: Put transmission fluid in bike!

Ok, next up is to clean the swingarm and put that back in, torque everything up.
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Old 09-25-2011, 06:06 PM   #64
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Quote:
f you angle the torque adapter 90 degrees you do not have to recalculate the value.
Hey that's good to know. Thanks.

Don't forget the final drive fluid, Nick!

For as much fuss as I've heard about that spline lube, it doesn't seem to make a ton of difference. I wouldn't stress about it. I think BMW owners tend to worry about things too much. Of course, they don't call us Bitchers Moaners and Whiners for nothing

Do you know anything about how that fork is set up? Spring rate, valving, oil, etc? I'm hoping to get something similar next year. Do you know which fork it is? WP, Kayaba?
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Old 09-25-2011, 06:25 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by bgoodsoil View Post
Hey that's good to know. Thanks.

Don't forget the final drive fluid, Nick!

For as much fuss as I've heard about that spline lube, it doesn't seem to make a ton of difference. I wouldn't stress about it. I think BMW owners tend to worry about things too much. Of course, they don't call us Bitchers Moaners and Whiners for nothing

Do you know anything about how that fork is set up? Spring rate, valving, oil, etc? I'm hoping to get something similar next year. Do you know which fork it is? WP, Kayaba?


I had never heard that one before! IMO that is right up there with BMWobblyou!
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Old 09-25-2011, 08:09 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by bgoodsoil View Post
Hey that's good to know. Thanks.

...

Do you know anything about how that fork is set up? Spring rate, valving, oil, etc? I'm hoping to get something similar next year. Do you know which fork it is? WP, Kayaba?
Here is what I know about the forks:

Originally off a 1991 KTM 250, WP4054. Re-valved for a xr 600 Baja bike. There was about 1" of travel removed and the springs were shortened to work properly. The spring rate is approximately .51Kg. (stock measures:) capacity 500cc weight 5 S.A.E. Air chamber space 130mm 12.5 mm preload on forks stamped with K4T95L 15 mm on those marked K4T95K

I think you can pick up 4054s on ebay for next to nothing these days. If I was going to do this today, I would probably pick a 950/990 Adventure and use the entire front, brakes and all. Obviously would be more money but the less custom stuff to fab up the better.
--Nick
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Old 09-25-2011, 10:26 PM   #67
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Nick, I am really just trying to give some good advise so don't take this the wrong way but the next time you work on your bike wash it first. You will stay cleaner. Your lift will stay cleaner. Most importantly, the inside of your bike is a lot less likely to get dirt in it. Plus you will be able to see things more clearly such as cracks and broken tabs and whatnot. Maintaining a dirty bike really is half ass since it really does hide half of what you are suppose to be checking out.






















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Old 09-25-2011, 10:31 PM   #68
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I am one of those weirdos that rather just take out the tranny but here is a thought I never had before until I looked at those pictures. I wonder if the spacer comes out and goes back in again a little easier if you take a engine/frame spacer out first?
I put it in the freezer when I'm changing the switch. If I take my time on the switch, and hurry getting the spacer in, it slides in pretty well. Also, I ground small fillets on one edge of the radius on either side, to help it slide in a little better.




BE gentle on that screw! the case threads are a little weak.

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Old 09-25-2011, 11:09 PM   #69
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Some progress today.

I would have designed this a bit differently, but such as it is, 800 cc of liquid love.:





Ah yes, picked this up from my buddy's house. Craftsman torque wrench from my "Motorcycle Gang" the PNOs.
That of course stands for "Planned Non Operation".
It gives you some kind of idea of who "we" are. LOL.





A bit of cleaning on the swing arm




The boot is cracked for sure, glad I picked one up.
Oh and THANK YOU San Francisco BMW for having (yet again) this in stock! Woohoo!






Is it really supposed to look like this?




OK so there is NO WAY that they gave me the right part. No way. Nope. nuh uh.



Here is a really bad pick of how different they are.



However, upon really close inspection, the numbers on here are the same...
Ok, streeeetch it on. It actually works! Weird though.

Here it is, almost back on all the way.


Airbox is now all clean too.



Putting those bolts back in for the drive shaft to "output flange". I call them FUN NUTS.
My fingers hurt.






Starting to look like a motorcycle again.



Alright then. Sunday night wrap up.
About 15 minutes of clean up and I'm done. Put the tools away and find a frosty beverage.
Or was that, find a frosty beverage and put the tools away?

Next up: torque, clean, button up.
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Old 09-25-2011, 11:30 PM   #70
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I will likely go with a D606 or similar; basically I'm going with the most aggressive tire I can find. I will be riding this two days down the coast back home, but I will sacrifice road manners for super knobs for this trip.

My main concern is convincing my buddies to do the same.

Handling:
Loose stuff, this think is a tank. You sit back, stay on the throttle, and let the rear tire do it's thing. But you only want to pick up this bike a couple of times per day.


--Nick
man i would love to see this thing rip. It looks like a really fun bike. I agree about the lean back and letting the rear tire push the front end straight, but i cant sit down- I get all squirrelly!
I have found the D606's to be the most knobs you can get. Plus you sacrifice any road manners, i suspect! They're really loud at about 50, though.... wwwwwWWHHHHHHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO


Given your luggage choices, I'd probably lean towards the soft stuff if I was planning on their being reason to believe I'd be tipping over. THe stock cases kinda go Poof when you whack with hard stuff like the ground. I like the stock cases for regular touring, even dirt road touring, but anything else is iffy.
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Old 09-25-2011, 11:48 PM   #71
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...snip...
Given your luggage choices, I'd probably lean towards the soft stuff if I was planning on their being reason to believe I'd be tipping over. THe stock cases kinda go Poof when you whack with hard stuff like the ground. I like the stock cases for regular touring, even dirt road touring, but anything else is iffy.

But you *did* see *these* right? I call them Zega Cases for Real Men (tm).




Course, I might not have time to fab them up right (and they weigh 19.5 lbs EACH). BUT I DO have Jesse Racks that would work with these very nicely I think.
Sometimes hoarding stuff works!
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Old 09-25-2011, 11:53 PM   #72
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Real men! Ha! 40 pounds of box! I dont even want to carry forty pounds of stuff never mind forty pounds of stuff to carry more stuff! (I read most of the thread but not all apparently ) :sheepish


Then again, its good crash protection, with a little beefing up. Dont care if you beat em up pretty good. They do have a low profile, widthwise. They look bad ass. Its a toss up
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Old 09-26-2011, 08:29 AM   #73
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If you buy your gear oil in those 1 quart bottles with a pointy top you can squirt it right into the side of the gearbox.

Did you put new oil in the final drive?

You stand a fair chance of snapping your sub-frame with those boxes. I snapped the top right subframe bolt, the one that goes above the shock, with Jesses that were empty. Of course, I was riding hard offroad but that's exactly what you plan to do. I really don't recommend those boxes, man.

There's a company called Seahorse that makes good boxes. They're Pelican copies that are a lot cheaper. They're very well made and you can get two with matching keys for $120. I mounted a set with Happy Trails racks on a friend's KLR and I've been very impressed by them. I think they weigh 8 pounds each.



They make great tables.



I LOVE my Jesses. They're huge and they're only 29" wide. The lids work great as parts trays. The angle cuts give me lots of lean angle and my ankles don't hit the front edge. I've wrecked this bike in every way imaginable and they're held up like champs. The racks were pure garbage and I had to make my own after the boxes fell off in Guatemala but the boxes themselves rock. They're very expensive though.

Those racks were my first welding project. I'm darn proud of them.

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Old 09-27-2011, 07:43 PM   #74
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OK For today (so far..)

Wrassle the boot on. Yes it fit. Hard to believe, but if you use all of your fingers, some forceps and a beer, it *does* go on.



Doo de doo de doo....



Getting the swing arm centered (mostly).




And Torqued down. Making a mark to be sure it does not wander when I torque down the Nut.




yep.




Put it in 5TH Gear and then used my now Antique Honda Tool Kit 10mm Spanner to torque these guys down.
It said 26lbs or so, but as posted on this thread, I put them in clean and dry, and torqued these as much as I could this way, going round about, three times. I let you know if they come loose.




Getting the back half back together.




And realizing that the brake only goes on when everything is apart...




Interesting that the Shock upper and Lower bolts are about 25lbs, which did not seem like much.

Man I think I am going to bail on rebuilding the carbs for this trip.

I'll be lucky if I get a test ride in at this point.

More to do tonight....
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Old 09-27-2011, 07:47 PM   #75
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I use an allens wrench to center my swingarm. A 4mm will fit tight between the swingarm and the frame on either side. If I can barely wiggle in a 4mm on both sides it's centered. Yours'll be different of course, but you get the idea.
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