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Old 07-08-2013, 09:19 AM   #31
laser17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toro618 View Post
I always add 400cc's of oil, but at times that puts the level at above the sight glass...cannot see a little bubble....even after letting the oil settle in. When I just go by the sight glass, I pour until about 3/4-7/8 high.
Is the exact amount critical on a trials motor? Is it important to be able to see a little bubble in the sight glass?

thanks
Toro - you need to lean the bike to the shifter side to drain the oil trapped on the clutch side of the motor. Might explain why 400cc is so high in the glass as it should be about 3/4 high at 400. To answer your question - no the exact amount is not critical. +/- 25ml is quite common. (I use 375 in cold weather to reduce drag)
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Old 07-08-2013, 09:43 AM   #32
toro618
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laser17 View Post
Toro - you need to lean the bike to the shifter side to drain the oil trapped on the clutch side of the motor. Might explain why 400cc is so high in the glass as it should be about 3/4 high at 400. To answer your question - no the exact amount is not critical. +/- 25ml is quite common. (I use 375 in cold weather to reduce drag)

Thank you. I actually lean the bike on both sides.
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:45 AM   #33
Sting32
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Originally Posted by motobene View Post
I don't go by fears and prohibitions, but on what proves to work well without problems. I suspect the synthetic oil concerns came from the early `90s GasGas (pre-Pro) f
Unfortunately you are "off-facts" on this one. Goto gasgas uk site. I don't have computer right now to find link for you.


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Old 07-10-2013, 08:47 AM   #34
Sting32
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Originally Posted by laser17 View Post
Toro - you need to lean the bike to the shifter side to drain the oil trapped on the clutch side of the motor. Might explain why 400cc is so high in the glass as it should be about 3/4 high at 400. To answer your question - no the exact amount is not critical. +/- 25ml is quite common. (I use 375 in cold weather to reduce drag)
We usr 375 year round. This is perfectly just about half sight glass full.

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Old 07-10-2013, 10:28 AM   #35
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Castrol Dextron 4?

I was at Autozone yesterday and purchased Dexron 4, which is a synthetic. From what I read here synthetic is not good for the bikes. I have been running Castrol Transmax dex/merc not a synthetic with limited success. When they bike gets really hot the clutch feels different. I have not put the Dexron 4 in yet so no harm done. Just want to make sure I am doing the right thing.
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Old 07-10-2013, 04:40 PM   #36
2whlrcr
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Not to be an oil nazi, but to the best of knowledge there is no Dexron 4. There have been several variations of Dexron III and then the jump to Dexron IV. No four or five in there. Also note there is no "T" in Dexron.

But there is a Mopar ATF +4 which is a synthetic.
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Old 07-10-2013, 04:55 PM   #37
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IV is four.When in Rome ---
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Old 07-10-2013, 05:13 PM   #38
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When I said 4 I meant IV. IV is 4 in Roman numerals. Sorry about the T.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2whlrcr View Post
Not to be an oil nazi, but to the best of knowledge there is no Dexron 4. There have been several variations of Dexron III and then the jump to Dexron IV. No four or five in there. Also note there is no "T" in Dexron.

But there is a Mopar ATF +4 which is a synthetic.
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:28 PM   #39
2whlrcr
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Well then I screwed up too, because it's Dexron VI as in six. There is no Dexron 4.

You didn't say what kind of trials bike? The GG Pro's work well with plain ole Dexron/Mercon III.
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:39 PM   #40
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Again my bad it is VI (so 6) The bike is a 2004 Gas Gas 280 Pro. Sorry for all the problems with this question. My basic question is do I run synthetic or not, and if not why? (I believe you guys just wondering what it does that is harmful.)
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:17 PM   #41
mung
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Have 04 300 Raga that since new have run GM auto trac.Incredible,smooth clutch action. A month ago tried ATF and right away noticed notchy, crunchy clutch and tranny action.Went back to auto trac and was immediately smooth again.Also have 12 300 Raga that has auto trac in it and it operates smooth and slick.I realize that GG says that auto trac is a no no but for ten years it has worked great for me with no problems.If auto trac creates problems, for me it has not happened in ten years.
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Old 07-11-2013, 04:36 AM   #42
2whlrcr
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Hah, another typical oil thread, there is no definitive answer. I've always used dino Dex in my Pros and have never had an issue either. It's cheap, can buy it anywhere and I make sure I change every 5-10 hours.

Others have good luck with the GM Auto Trak. Pick your poison.
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Old 07-11-2013, 06:23 AM   #43
motobene
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toro618 View Post
I always add 400cc's of oil, but at times that puts the level at above the sight glass...cannot see a little bubble....even after letting the oil settle in. When I just go by the sight glass, I pour until about 3/4-7/8 high.
Is the exact amount critical on a trials motor? Is it important to be able to see a little bubble in the sight glass?

thanks
I don't think it's crucial. I've been putting in oil until it is 7/8 up the bubble with the bike balanced upright. The 450cc Jim Snell recommends might be above the sight glass? Too high an oil level can add a little to the clutch-in forward impulse (aka 'drag') when cold.

I found a neat trick yesterday to filling the crank case through the tiny fill hole. I had an empty 15-ounce (440cc) plastic bottle of Lucas 2 stroke oil, which I use. See it here:

http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...id=16&loc=show

The tapered nozzle fits right into the fill hole and the volume at the 14-ounce line is 7/8 up the sight glass, so no more need to be careful measuring. BTW, it takes a bit for the oil to work into the center cases, so it'll be too high on the site glass if you fill it faster. give it a few minutes.

Jim Snell says not to use AutoTrac2 oil because the later model Pro lighter Bellville spring will allow slip and 'failure of the clutch.' I assume it is a synthetic because he says it is 'too slick'. I use a synthetic, ATF+4. Snell recommends Dexron-Mercon or Type F, but I've had better performance with the low cost synthetic ATF+4. As for the clutch slipping, I'd have to be pretty brain dead to not notice when that's happening, and so far, it's just not happened, even with higher gears on power climbs. Now that I have the 300, I'll be aware of that.
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Old 07-12-2013, 03:28 PM   #44
Sting32
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Again go to gas gas UK. fair warning people to stay away from synthetic transmission fluids. not everybody's had trouble but they had enough trouble to put out the warning especially about the auto Trac.

I'm using Yamalube its either 5w-30 were 10w-30 I don't have a picture of the bottle I got out of last but I haven't had any trouble like I had when I was using auto track 2
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Old 07-12-2013, 07:28 PM   #45
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I am at almost 6 years on my 07 GG300Pro. I have used the Chevron Dex II/III and a similar Valvoline product. Finally used up the original clutch about 4 months ago. The local dealer worked on it awhile back. Not sure what he put in it, but the clutch dragged horribly until very hot, when it behaved, better....
Drained and put in the Dex, no problems. It is cheap and readily available. I recommend rubber gloves. Makes my hands swell up.

Plus 1 for frequency. Now that the bike has almost no value, I have backed off to a oil change every 15 or so hours. When it was new I changed after every ride, and had to wipe huge chunks off the drain plug, like they never flushed the cases... Now it is just a magnetic sludge, I assume from the clutch.
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