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Old 01-07-2012, 04:06 AM   #91
AlpineGuerrilla
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I don't get the hotel reservation stuff either. On my trip to Russia this year, I had a reservation in St. Petersburg for the second night. They did make my registration, but they said it's only valid for that day/night, and I have to get another one for each day - thus staying only in hotels. I of course didn't do that.
They didn't give me any voucher or anything to prove the registration though. And the border controls in Murmansk didn't care or ask about the voucher. But I did find out, that the fine for not being registered is 50€ at the border. Still a lot less expensive than sleeping in hotels all the way through.
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Old 01-07-2012, 02:43 PM   #92
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This is Brilliant XDream keep it up. Really enjoying this
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Old 01-08-2012, 04:58 AM   #93
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This is Brilliant XDream keep it up. Really enjoying this
Thanks!

Also for all the other comments in this thread. So I know at least someoneīs reading
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Old 01-08-2012, 09:53 AM   #94
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Day 7 Novosibirsk - Krasnojarsk

The morning of day 7 started as lousy als day 6 ended. It was raining. At least the thunderstorms were gone. The cloth did not dry from last day, they were still soaking wet. So we get into the wet socks and shoes and gloves and *brrrrr*. After a hearty breakfast we decided to hit the road to Krasnojarsk. This was only 750km today.



During breakfast Yuri was talking about the next step of the route to Irkutsk south of Lake Baikal. This was the time when I had to tell him, that I want continue on my own from Krasnojarsk again. It was nice riding with him and he teached me lots of typical russian things that made life easyer, some more phrases, I learned to know some more different meals. But his pace was quite against my personal riding rhythm and I prefer to ride alone again. And I told him that I will take the BAM road north of Lake Baikal.

He replied: "This in not possible"
I said: "yes it is."
Yuri: "no, there is no real road, and there are rivers, and you might use railroad bridges"
me: "i know, thats why I want to go there"
Yuri: "itīs not possible"
me: "I have read of 3 guys (walters report) who did it"
Yuri: "yes, but they were 3 guys with lots of experience, you are on youīr own"
me: "I heard of one person doeing it solo (the rumors of the "red" motorcycle in walters report)"
Yuri: "yes, but this was a russian guy who speaks the language and he was on a light motocross"

Every time we stopped, everytime we had to get gas, everytime I stopped for pictures he tried to tell me, that the BAM road is not possible. He did not want to let me go. He was really worried about me and took every chance to talk me into going with him to the south.

The region where we were right now is famous for coal mining. This is all around the city of Kemerovo. If you are unhappy with you job, imagine living and working here. This is not a nice place indeed. Avarage live span is about 55 years or so.





On the road we met a couple going to Novosibirk for a big biker meeting. They were riding on that Hayabusa. Next time I travel through Russia I will take a Hayabusa without licence plate too. I can make it through Russia in 14 days, fly from Vladivostok to Seattle and make it in 5 days to New York. RTW in 3 weeks - sounds cool - but I guess no fun at all. So Iīm gonna skip that idea for now.



I knew you want a closeup of the Hayabusa - ah sorry, this is a biker forum, so we need a closeup of the chick. Here it is



Again some graveyards along the road. I canīt help, but I liked those graveyards in the middle of nowhere in the trees.





A stop along the road.



The good thing with the rain is, when it stopīs there is a rainbow



I did not really exactly plan my trip. It was more like: "lets see how far I can get". But of course I had kind of a goal that I wanted to reach. The first goal was to reach Krasnojarsk within 8 days, get new energy there for the challanges in front and do a bike inspection and maybe an oil change.

After 7 days on the road, I finally made it to Krasnoyarsk.







A bit less than 7.000 km and 1 day earlyer than expected. I was happy that everything went that smooth. I did not have major problems. the only thing that broke so far was my tank cap on the main tank and I fixed it with duct tape.

Here is a Video of my trip from Vienna to Krasnojarsk. You see how the roads look like. You see landscape (how it does NOT change for 7.000 km). You see the traffic and you see the rainy days. Not too much action though, but might still be interesting for some of you.

Video Part 1
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Old 01-08-2012, 02:03 PM   #95
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Thanks!

Also for all the other comments in this thread. So I know at least someoneīs reading
Greetings from Russian guys on motorcycles of Austria, is very interesting to see our route through the eyes of a foreigner
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Old 01-08-2012, 02:07 PM   #96
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Old 01-08-2012, 02:19 PM   #97
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Watching

I'm watching
Very enjoyable RR so far. Thank you
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Old 01-08-2012, 09:26 PM   #98
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Awesome X Dream Like a poor man's guide to the BAM Oh and next time you come through Oklahoma let me help you find the good roads, twice I've read about only flat and boring Oklahoma I'll show you the good stuff.



Keep up the excellent reporting. I know what you mean about running the three tanks on the bmw, I get craziest looks at all the stations in Latin AmericaThat can't believe it. I can just picture you trying to explain it to the Russian gas attandant

I hope you didn't let you 'bmb' crap out on you. Looking forward to the rest of this great ride
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Old 01-08-2012, 11:58 PM   #99
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Greetings from Russian guys on motorcycles of Austria, is very interesting to see our route through the eyes of a foreigner
Hey Mukaltin!
Thanks for the pictures

A few more comments of a foreigner:
- Russians were much more friendly and helpful than I excpected
- villages and cities were cleaner than expected (not much garbage)
- people spoke less english than expected
- roads were better than expected

So overall a very very positive experience so far
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Old 01-09-2012, 12:21 AM   #100
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Awesome X Dream Like a poor man's guide to the BAM Oh and next time you come through Oklahoma let me help you find the good roads, twice I've read about only flat and boring Oklahoma I'll show you the good stuff.
Thanks for your comment Throttlemeister!

If you are from Oklahoma, please donīt take my comments too negative. I have an "Oklahoma trauma" that I maybe have to explain.

Some years ago I attended at a Race called "Race Across America". This is on Bicycles. This is something like a Motorbike, but without motor The race goes from the Westcoast to the Eascoast of America. Itīs around 5.000 km (i did it in 11 days and took 13th place). You maybe could imagine, that riding through Oklahoma on a bike where you do 500 miles a day on a completely straight road is not as entertaining as you wish it would be.

I am not talking negative about Oklahoma, sorry if this was misunderstood. Riding through Russia during the first part of my trip just reminded me so much on the part through Oklahoma that I really had to mention it here. It also was for some comparsion to let you have an idea how BIG this Country is. It took me one and a half day through the flatlands of America on my bicycle and it took me 6 days from Belarus to Krasnojarsk (whis is landscapewise) comparable to those flats in America. Itīs just soooooo much bigger than everything you can imagine.

(And before some Russians complain now - I know there are some great twisty backroads too on the way to Krasnojarsk, especially in the Ural wich I found supernice even in rain and with heavy traffic)

Some pictures of Oklahoma on my Bicycle. maybe you understand now why I am comparing.
Landscape, Road conditions, Thunderstorms, Tornados, big sky country - just the same










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Old 01-09-2012, 12:26 AM   #101
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Like a poor man's guide to the BAM
Thats exactly what I wanted it to be
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Old 01-09-2012, 12:39 AM   #102
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Hey Mukaltin!
Thanks for the pictures
http://photo.qip.ru/users/motoadventure/96608922/all/

Hi Hans, Here you can take a photo for your story, it saw one of our Cameras
there is a button at the bottom to show more (показать еще фото)

Mukaltin screwed with this post 01-09-2012 at 12:46 AM
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Old 01-09-2012, 12:52 AM   #103
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Krasnojarsk

Krasnojarsk deserves itīs own Chapter

We arrived Krasnojarsk in the afternoon of day 7. We stopped in front of a hotel in the center which I had marked in my Garmin. I was staying with the bikes while Yuri went inside and asked for rates.

I was looking at the beautiful women all around and one of them came up to me and asked (in russian) if I would like to stay at her appartement overnight. I am not used to nice women approaching me and ask if I want to stay at their appartement so I was like:

I was kind of stunned, but kept talking to her. Yuri appeared and said, the hotel is too expensive. I replied that I found an alternative



Yuri talked to her a bit and we decided to take her offer. She was also a motorcycle enthusiast and Yuri thought itīs OK to take the offer. I was also excited to get some more insight in the dayly life of those people.

So we went to their appartement:



we got meatsoup for dinner, tee and beer. (no vodka)



this was her daughter, she learns some german in school and it was funny sitting together with her - me with my russian dictionary, and she with her german dictionary. That was supernice.



that was her brother. I had to lough all the time. He never hat a shirt on. And he showed me his training-room with old, rusty weights and stuff. Too bad i did not take a picture.



They told me, they had about 20 animals in their small appartement. They showed me everyone. Rabbits, Snakes, Lizards, Mice...



But I liked the sibirian cat most



I also think the whole family and friends appeared that night to see the "crazy austrian". Her Grandmother told me she is watching the "Vienna New Years concert" every year on TV.

Also the president of the local motorcycle club "the corsars" appeared. Nobody of them spoke a word of english, but with hands and feet and with some help from Yuri we were talking about dayly life in Russia, politics (very interesting, even I am not interested in politics at all). Late at night they showed me pictures of last weeks motorcycle meeting just outside of Krasnojarsk where I also spotted a picture of Doug (RTWDoug). That was superfunny. Long after midnight I went to bed.
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Old 01-09-2012, 01:00 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mukaltin View Post
http://photo.qip.ru/users/motoadventure/96608922/all/

Hi Hans, Here you can take a photo for your story, it saw one of our Cameras
there is a button at the bottom to show more (показать еще фото)


thanks
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Old 01-09-2012, 04:17 AM   #105
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Glad you are back!

This is great stuff!! Thanks for coming back and finishing.. Can't wait to see the rest.


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