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Old 10-08-2011, 09:15 AM   #16
rico2072
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Never been a HD guy what so ever, but that one actually looks pretty good.
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Old 10-08-2011, 09:54 AM   #17
snowhawk jockey
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I like the Night Rod. Mom has always wanted a Vrod but the chassis have never suited her Ironbutt riding style.
The styling of the Night Rod is spot on with flat black and no chrome to clean, but the forward controls are a deal breaker for her.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Uglyprimate View Post
>snip<
I'd love to see what that V-Rod motor would do in an XR1200 frame.
+100 Thats a Harley I would dream of owning... Porsche powered street tracker!
It would easily line up next to my 950SM as a "big brother" with shiny paint, instead of plastic fantastic.

Harley you listening?!?! You will call it the X-Rod and all the streettracker/cafe/naked/bobber boys would love to own one, too.
It will keep the XR bike in the HD line-up for the future with a emission friendly motor.

snowhawk jockey screwed with this post 10-08-2011 at 10:03 AM
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Old 10-08-2011, 10:20 AM   #18
rudolf35 OP
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Laugh

Quote:
Originally Posted by snowhawk jockey View Post
I like the Night Rod. Mom has always wanted a Vrod but the chassis have never suited her Ironbutt riding style.
The styling of the Night Rod is spot on with flat black and no chrome to clean, but the forward controls are a deal breaker for her.
+100 Thats a Harley I would dream of owning... Porsche powered street tracker!
It would easily line up next to my 950SM as a "big brother" with shiny paint, instead of plastic fantastic.

Harley you listening?!?! You will call it the X-Rod and all the streettracker/cafe/naked/bobber boys would love to own one, too.
It will keep the XR bike in the HD line-up for the future with a emission friendly motor.
The scuttlebutt is that the V-R motor was intended for Buell. He took a look at it and stated that it was to heavy (it is a bit of a slug) and went the Rotax way. More scuttlebutt has it that the V-R was built/designed around the motor - we have this Porsche lump, now let us put a motorcycle around it - thus the length due to rake, trail and a place to put gas.

If the Porsche lump would be put in a XR you would have a V-Rod.

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rudolf35 screwed with this post 10-08-2011 at 11:07 AM
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Old 10-08-2011, 11:06 AM   #19
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First oil change, by me

OK, 578 miles on the Nightrod, it is time for a oil change. I know the book states 1k to the first change but I start at 500 miles and then at 3k intervals - been doing that for a long, long time and that is that.

Fist note, the Nightrod is to low for my Wally World oil pan. Since I am a true KLR owner at heart (never owned one but I am still a cheap bastard who does not spend at stealers and MAKES things work). Solution, two 2x4' under the Jiffy (WTF is so "Jiffy" I still do not know) stand and the old pan is still in business.


2, 2x4 Jiffy Stand accessories

Now checking the oil on the side stand is not the way with the V-Rod; it is checked with a temped up motor in the upright position. Not good on the road or in the shop. So, first modification. Was at the stealership to get my "thrown in" shop manual (beats the heck out of the sleazy "make a walking advertising for us" T-shirt) and had a shop guy check my oil while I was holding it upright. He pronounced a "right on the mark" verdict and I had him "hold that thought" while I placed the bike on the side stand. Placed the dipstick back in the motor, pulled it out and made a mark for a "full" on the side stand reference.


Side stand full mark

This is the drain plug with "fuzz" after 587 miles. Not bad, I am sure that there is more in the filter but since I am not as anal-retentive, as some of my GS riding buddies are, I did not dissect the oil filter. Oh, FYI the motor is metric so keep a set of metric and standard tools on hand!


Sump drain plug with 578 miles of fuzz

Once the oil was out, gave it some time to let it all drain, it was time to remove the filter. In the shop manual it recommends to remove the lower radiator bracket to make the filter removal easier - good point and it helped a lot.


Lower radiator bracket

Just to show how snug things are in the front, this is the left front. The oil filter is under the motor mount.


Left front of motor

Once the lower radiator bracket was out, dropping the filter was the same as any current H-D. The only difference is that the filter drops out the bottom and can not be pulled out the side; no issues there.


Removing filter

Yes, the oil drain pan was moved, once the motor drain plug was reinstalled, and a "custom" bakery shop device used in it's stead. Once the filter was replaced and the lower radiator mount installed it was time to oil up the motor. Yes I do measure the oil as I put it in. The 5 quart jug of oil had a wee bit more in it than advertised; 475cc's more to be exact. Now more oil in the jug is a good thing, but more to "much more" oil in a motor is not a good thing.


475cc's more than labeled

FYI, yes I use 20-50 Castrol in ALL bikes so do not bother with a semi-oil thread. The black MSR bottle is my on the road oil reserve I move from bike to bike while traveling (not a bad investment 10 years ago).

As far as tools needed for a oil change, minimal. A 17mm socket (motor drain plug), ratchet, 1/2" spanner (lower radiator bracket), 17mm spanner (to get a good feel while snugging up motor drain plug; yeah I carry a torque wrench on the road, not, finally a filter spanner from Auto Zone.


Oil change tool kit

All in all, a non event. As I wrench/ride the Nightrod I will keep this posting current.
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rudolf35 screwed with this post 10-08-2011 at 11:11 AM
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Old 10-08-2011, 01:29 PM   #20
mrbreeze
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nice bike, and keep the updates coming. I saw a V-Rod on the interstate around... some major city... when I was on a road trip a few years ago. It was decked out for touring with hard bags and a windshield. I gave the guy a thumbs up, and he showed me the fast way out of the city.

I've always liked the looks of the Night Rod, but I hesitate at the feet forward riding position. I am 5'9", maybe 5'10" if she's real pretty...
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Old 10-08-2011, 03:19 PM   #21
Murphy Slaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbreeze View Post
I am 5'9", maybe 5'10" if she's real pretty...


Good one.

Nice bike.
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Old 10-14-2011, 05:25 AM   #22
rudolf35 OP
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Laugh Add a little power

Since I use various devices that require 12V, a power outlet is in order. H-D does not supply one on the NRS, but they do have various points where one can tap into the harness to mount a 12v power outlet. Now since I want the 12v outlet to not only supply 12v power but also be a point to charge the battery a un-switched point had to be found. H-D again supplied that.


12v un-switched power tapp

To find this little bugger I had to remove the pillion "pad" but that is no issue a 1/2 and 3/8 spanner can not cure. Once the pillion pad was off it was time to remove the main fuse so I can not let the grey smoke out! The main fuse, on the NRS, is under the right front cover.


Main fuse holder, less fuse

What also shows up in the image above, is a accessory plug that I will use to mount a second, switched, 12v power outlet. My main reason not to tap into the switched accessory plug is that I have to figure out where to place the second 12v power outlet and I wanted the battery charging option.

Since I knew that I wanted two 12v power outlets I placed a order with Powerlet to get a V-Rod kit and a plain powerlet outlet.


Powerlet V-Rod kit

The Powerlet V-Rod kit is made to mount the 12v power outlet on the left side by the horn. As the picture above shows there is the harness, the outlet with mount and a rather large, but nice, fuse holder.


Fuse holder close up and personal

Once I had the parts laid out, the mounting was a rather simple matter. It started with taking off the chrome acorn nut holding the horn. Then there is a "L" shape retainer that keeps the horn from swinging back and forth; simple matter to just pull the horn and bolt back to remove the "L" bracket.



Frame tab for horn

Once I had the "L" bracket off and the horn free of the bike, it was time to see how the Powerlet bracket would fit (see if I need a longer bolt or......). No issues there. The Powerlet bracket mounts on the outside of the tab holding the horn bolt (horn being behind the frame tab) and the simply slip the "L" bracket back on and snug the acorn nut down.


Back view of Powerlet


Closeup of Poerlet mounted

OK fine, I have the physical mounting done, but how to route the wires and tap into the harness? The routing worked out very simple. Just run the Powerlet harness up and run along the main harness (zip tie in a few places) until the connector is under the seat on the left side of the airbox


Harness trace

Once the connector was under the seat it was a simple matter of plugging in the fuse holder and then mounting it to the bike. At that point I also choose the ground wire location. The ground is simply a bolt, with a star washer (scuffed up paint to get a good "bite") in one of the numerous holes under the seat (naturally in metal).


Preliminary layout


Finallayout of wire harness

With all the connections made, I tested the outlet with a device and it worked as it should. At this point is was just a matter of putting things up and closing the covers and seat - do not forget to remount the main fuse; reset the clock to!


All done ready to use

Once my windshield, H-D, come in I will figure out the front powerlet location and post the outcome.

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Old 10-14-2011, 08:44 AM   #23
scrannel
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Love this motor -- wish, like others, it were in a sport touring chassis. Heard the "it was meant for Buell" rumor, but also heard it was mean for a more modern e-glide, still keeping the V-Twin while giving the platform substantially longer legs. Which seems to make more sense considering its weight.
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Old 10-14-2011, 09:01 AM   #24
NewYorkLuke
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Oil drinker

Just a heads up i have a 2010 NRS it burns about a Qt of oil every thousand miles until just recently when it rolled over 7k seems to have stopped, its pretty common but its said to always stop by 10k so just keep an eye on it, love the bike
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Old 10-14-2011, 09:02 AM   #25
NewYorkLuke
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Oh and great wealth of knowledge at 1130cc.com as well
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Old 10-14-2011, 09:51 AM   #26
rudolf35 OP
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Thumb Oil and 1130.com

Thank you for the heads up on the oil usage. It seems a reasonable thing; give time for the rings to seat. I am religious about 3k oil changes and keep up with oil levels.

I am a member at 1130.com and have some posts running over there.
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Old 10-14-2011, 10:12 AM   #27
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rudolf35 View Post
Yes, the oil drain pan was moved, once the motor drain plug was reinstalled, and a "custom" bakery shop device used in it's stead. Once the filter was replaced and the lower radiator mount installed it was time to oil up the motor. Yes I do measure the oil as I put it in. The 5 quart jug of oil had a wee bit more in it than advertised; 475cc's more to be exact. Now more oil in the jug is a good thing, but more to "much more" oil in a motor is not a good thing.


475cc's more than labeled
Free "extra" oil seems unlikely. Is it possible you have a 5 liter jug?

Beautiful machine, keep the photos and info coming.
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Old 10-14-2011, 11:06 AM   #28
rudolf35 OP
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Cool2 "Free" Oil

Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
Free "extra" oil seems unlikely. Is it possible you have a 5 liter jug?

Beautiful machine, keep the photos and info coming.
Yes, I got a 5Qt jug.BUT! The 5qt jugs are over the mark full, hence the "free" oil comment. If one where not to measure the amount put in, trusting in the filler, the motor would be way over full - In the last few jugs I got, it was almost 500cc each time (1/2 liter). I know it is hard to see in the photo, but the amount of oil in the measuring cup is right at 475cc mark.
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Old 01-01-2012, 01:38 PM   #29
rudolf35 OP
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More farkles needed

OK, I have over 3k on the NRS and I figured out what I needed/wanted to add to the bike. Having installed the Powerlet outlets (I did not figure out the top location during the previous posts but now it is on and visible on the right switch cluster) I had a good idea where to tap the wire loom for a good switched 12v signal.


Gray Deutsch connector

The gray Deutsch connector, behind the right front panel, is the source for the 12v switched power. Once the cover is off the connector, one can see four pins. The top left pin, with the clip facing up, is the target. I obtained a male Deutsch connector (from a old accessory cigaret plug loom) and mounted a single red wire in a location to meet up with the one in the bikes female connector. I ran this wire, to a 12v relay (AutoZone special) as the switched signal wire.

Not a good image but the relay can be seen with the wire running to the male Deutsch connector

So, why all this electrical plumbing? I like heated grips! I had Polly Heaters on my Buell and loved them. The Polly Heaters are made by a small operation and are top notch quality (can be Googled as Polly Heaters). The brass heaters fit inside the handlebar and on high it better be very cold; low is great for the chilli mornings and as a good setting with simple gloves.


Polly Heater instructions


Brass heater

Once I had the relay sub loom done it was time to get after the "work", that is removing the handlebars from the NRS


"Topless" NRS

After getting the handlebars off the NRS it was time to drill two 3/8 holes between the yoke locations and running the wires through the bars.


Wires "loomed" and in the handlebars

Once the wires where in the handlebars it was a simple matter of putting the "top" back on the NRS and running the wires to the switch location. The Polly Heaters come with everything needed to make a setup and all I had to add where a few connectors for the relay and make a switch mount.


Electrical layout


Controls setup


Mounted switch and Powerlet

On the left side, picture above, one can see the Polly Heater switch (the waterproof cover was my doing). On the right side is the Powerlet.

While I was working on the electrics I had the foot controls and the hand levers at a local powder coating shop. The H-D stealership wanted $100 for the black hand levers! That is over the top. I managed to get a good quality powder coating of all the foot controls and hand levers for $50.00!!


Brake side


Shifter side

After all that, I tested my GoPro

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDeraZd9fKM&context=C31db1d1ADOEgsToPDskIL-NNPpU4a7p2FglsKTtFA
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Old 01-01-2012, 03:53 PM   #30
kraven
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Nice looking bike, man.

Get us some GoPro of that thing in action.
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