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Old 10-14-2011, 07:18 AM   #31
jan.van.gent
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
Sorry jan, I misunderstood. I thought your counter-shaft sprocket was held on with a circlip (my old DR350SE was like that). My rear gear is held on with a circlip just like yours (and what's shown in the exploded parts view). Sometimes you can use a pair of needle nose pliers in lieu of the proper tool. But, you may as well buy one, chances are, you'll use it elsewhere.
I just took a circlip pliers from my work, i can use it during the weekend.
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Old 10-17-2011, 01:48 AM   #32
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It's done!
The rear gear is mounted, there is no play anymore. The old gear was just to worn...
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Old 10-17-2011, 12:13 PM   #33
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Great, glad you figured that out.
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Old 10-18-2011, 01:36 AM   #34
jan.van.gent
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This morning i removed the seat. Time for some new fabric on that!

I've put some rust bolt & nuts in a liquid which removes the rust. The result is OK.

The chain is now also mounted, now just have to make the tension right.
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Old 10-18-2011, 05:09 AM   #35
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Come on!

Just buy some new bolts!
They aren't sooo expensive!

Well, I can tell you that I separated my front tyre from the wheel in order to put it in it right position/way (The guy who changed my tyres put the front tire with the drawings pointing to the opposite side they should point) doing this, I did a little cut in the tube, but as it is the first I do this kind of job, it isn't sooo bad, je!
I'm repairing it tonight, je.

I've talked to a guy who works with hidraulic machines and he will get my bent fork straight for monday, so I'm doing other things meanwhile, so as to get a fully operating bike next week..

And I'll see if i can stay a little longer in the city this week so as to buy the transmision I need...

Well, that's all for now.
Greetings!
I have to go to school! jaja!
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Old 10-18-2011, 05:12 AM   #36
jan.van.gent
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There are so manny bolts on the NX125... I'm not going to replace them all
Now they are full of grease and a little rusty.

I use this:

Putting the bolts & nuts in it, removes the rust after a while.
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Old 10-18-2011, 08:22 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leo.G
I've talked to a guy who works with hydraulic machines and he will get my bent fork straight for monday, so I'm doing other things meanwhile, so as to get a fully operating bike next week..
I hope that works out OK.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jan.van.gent
There are so many bolts on the NX125... I'm not going to replace them all
No, but you could replace them as you go. I like all of my bike's fasteners to be of the Allen (hex) head variety. That way I can take just the Allen wrenches that I need (on a trip). They tend to pack smaller than open/box end wrenches (spanners).
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Old 10-18-2011, 09:49 AM   #38
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I don't think there are sooo much bolts on the NX...

Mine doesn't have so many and actually, it has some original bolts yet, jej!

I'm doing little things these days, so stay tuned, jej!
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:01 AM   #39
jan.van.gent
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In time i might replace the bolts, but if i can get them as new with this method, why bother... It's not the thread that is rusty, so the bolts are still as strong as new.
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:04 AM   #40
jan.van.gent
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In time i might replace the bolts, but if i can get them as new with this method, why bother... It's not the thread that is rusty, so the bolts are still as strong as new.

What should the tension be for the chain? I've read i need to be able to fit 2/3 fingers between the lifted chain and the rear axle, correct?
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Old 10-18-2011, 04:27 PM   #41
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That thing about the chain tension is more like a feeling than something that can be measured in my case but..

This is what my service manual say..



Jan, remember that if you grease your chain with what I use (SAE 90 oil) or with any kind of grease/oil that could finish in the rear wheel rim, you should let the grease/oil to dry or squeeze itself for some time (at least some hours) so as to have a lubricated chain and a clean wheel, je! (Sorry if I missed some words)

As regards chain lubrication...
Could you tell me what do you use to clean the chain before greasing/oiling it?
I use a piece of cloth with diesel fuel ("gasoil" here in Argentina)

Bronco, I haven't answered you.. je!
I hope the same, this will surely be allright, we'll se, but I hope it will be a good fix...
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Old 10-19-2011, 01:22 AM   #42
jan.van.gent
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I've cleaned the chain of my mountainbike a lot (and repllaced it a lot).
I used this kind of device:

You put it on the chain (while still mounted), fill it up with some degreasing liquid for example white spirit, and you turn the chain slowly so the brushes in the device + white spirit clean the chain.

I don't know whether this exists for motor cycle sized chains...
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Old 10-19-2011, 10:32 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jan.van.gent View Post
I've cleaned the chain of my mountainbike a lot (and repllaced it a lot).
I used this kind of device:

You put it on the chain (while still mounted), fill it up with some degreasing liquid for example white spirit, and you turn the chain slowly so the brushes in the device + white spirit clean the chain.

I don't know whether this exists for motor cycle sized chains...
That's really interesting, a very good way of cleaning the chains...

A piece of metal that could cover the chain would be better (like the ones that the C90's and also most of the Czech and Russian bikes had) but in spite of that, just cleaning it every 500Km can keep your chain good enough to last a lot of Km's more, jeje!

Personally I clean it the way I do just because it is the most practical way of doing it for me, and it doesn't matter (to me) getting my hands dirty doing manteinance to my bike je!

Today, after doing some maths excercises for the university I cleaned the device that goes from the front wheel to the speedo, it had about 20 years of muddy things inside, but the gears were beautiful after a little cleaning with gas, je!
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Leo.G screwed with this post 10-19-2011 at 11:02 AM
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Old 10-19-2011, 01:13 PM   #44
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jan: you can use this link, to the chain adjusting procedure, in the Maintenance PDF I posted to my blog: link

Also, here's a link to my chain cleaning procedure: link

I've used turpentine in the past. It works well but is not enviro-friendly. I switched to Simple Green because it's biodegradable. If you have a way to safely dispose of kerosene or turpentine, then they're OK to use. I also really like Liquid Wrench's chain lube. I also read (here) that DuPont makes a chain wax that works well, too. I prefer something like this over oils because of the "mess" factor.
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Old 10-19-2011, 01:38 PM   #45
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Leo, by any chance, do you have a wiring diagram for your NX? I just noticed that my shop manual lists a "Chapter 18 Wiring Diagram" in the table of contents but there isn't anything between Chapters 17 & 19. Thanks.
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