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Old 11-10-2011, 07:05 PM   #76
Leo.G
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Location: Marcos Juárez, Córdoba, Argentina
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Hey guys!

Help needed here!

I was wondering if you could tell me the lenght of part 19 in this scheme, and also the external diameter of the bearing labeled as 27 in the scheme. (The internal diameter of the housing of the bone for the bearing would be allright too)



The code of the hub Nº 19 is 52473-KY7-000
And the code of the bearing Nº 27 is 91071-KY7-003
The code of the whole bone with hub, bearings, dust seals and screw is 52470-KY7-000


I'm asking this because as I told you later (or I think I did so), the bearings of the bones of my rear suspension are extremelly worn, and now there are only external parts of old bearings there. So I'm doing something different with that.
I am going to have new hubs made out of bars of grillon (a similar material to teflon), and I'm just using that, without any bearing, and just with a new hub with the internal diameter of the housing for the bearing as external diameter for it, and with the internal diameter for the screw that goes in there (10mm)


Is it understandable?
If not, tell me and I'll try to make a little drawing, je!

Thanks in advance!
Greetings!
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Old 11-11-2011, 06:43 AM   #77
Bronco638 OP
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Boy, that's going to require some dis-assembly to measure those parts. Do you need this right away or can it wait a few weeks? If it can wait, I'll measure them up when it gets too cold for me to ride.
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Old 11-11-2011, 08:08 AM   #78
Leo.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
Boy, that's going to require some dis-assembly to measure those parts. Do you need this right away or can it wait a few weeks? If it can wait, I'll measure them up when it gets too cold for me to ride.
If you want to...

But I think I'll try to disassemble that this afternoon or tomorrow afternoon so as to have a measure for that...

I have to do a little manteinance to a friend's cub, but I think I'll have enought time for that..

Anyway, I'll post the measures I got from it, in case it was useful for any of you...

Apart from that, did you understand what I was trying to say about swapping bearings for simple grillon hubs?

Greetings!
PD: I'll see if after this matter of hubs I can invite my friends fishing to a near river, so as to make a mini ride report. If I'm lucky, I would go to the country with one or 2 cubs, a Yamaha Raptor 700, and my black lady, je!
PDD: Bronco, the scenery of the country near here is very similar to the one on the first part of your ride report.
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Old 11-12-2011, 05:11 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leo.G
PDD: Bronco, the scenery of the country near here is very similar to the one on the first part of your ride report.
Wide open and flat as hell?

And, to be honest Leo, no, I did not really understand what you're trying to do with the sleeve and busing/bearing dimensions within that piece of the rear suspension.
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:05 PM   #80
Leo.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
Wide open and flat as hell?

And, to be honest Leo, no, I did not really understand what you're trying to do with the sleeve and busing/bearing dimensions within that piece of the rear suspension.
You call the cylindric piece of metal that goes into the bearing "bushing" don't you?

If so, I could tell you that I'm planning to make bushings to replace the whole bearing, out of grillon, a material that is very similar to teflon..
Better now?

Look at the new photos I posted in my Photobucket album...

http://s287.photobucket.com/albums/l...0de%20la%20NX/

I'm having problems to take off the bolt that is in the bone that goes with the swingarm... (The most damaged bearings are there)
I hitted it very hard, heated it up, put wd 40 and even coke, and it wouldn't go out. Any ideas?

This bolt...





Thanks for reading!
Greatings!
PD: The country near here is like that but with lots of crops of soybeans and as we are near summer, some corn too!
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:54 AM   #81
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Well, upon closer inspection, they may be bearings after all. I did not notice the needle bearings in the illustration. A bearing will have the little rollers inside (either flat or tapered) that require lubrication. A bushing is solid metal usually made of something (relatively) soft, like brass or bronze (and may or may not require grease).

By the looks of it, that bolt might be seized. I can see you've tried to turn it with a wrench. If you do decide to try a large hammer again, be sure to put the nut back on the threads so that most of the nut is on the bolt. Otherwise, if you hit the end of the bolt wrong, you'll mess up the threads and never be able to get the nut back on.

To be honest, I don't think something as soft as Teflon is going to hold up very well in that location. There's a lot of loading on those pieces and it may destroy the grillion. If it were me, I'd replace the bearings and leave it stock.
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Old 11-14-2011, 04:57 AM   #82
Leo.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
Well, upon closer inspection, they may be bearings after all. I did not notice the needle bearings in the illustration. A bearing will have the little rollers inside (either flat or tapered) that require lubrication. A bushing is solid metal usually made of something (relatively) soft, like brass or bronze (and may or may not require grease).

By the looks of it, that bolt might be seized. I can see you've tried to turn it with a wrench. If you do decide to try a large hammer again, be sure to put the nut back on the threads so that most of the nut is on the bolt. Otherwise, if you hit the end of the bolt wrong, you'll mess up the threads and never be able to get the nut back on.

To be honest, I don't think something as soft as Teflon is going to hold up very well in that location. There's a lot of loading on those pieces and it may destroy the grillion. If it were me, I'd replace the bearings and leave it stock.
Well, I got some more measures from a similar bike's parts manual, and it seem to be of 22mm, but we'll see..

First I have to take that bolt off there...
With some help I already heated it and hitted it even harder (It has been turned with the wrench while hitting it) and it didn't move a single mm. So after having little problems with the thread of the bolt, we used an angle grinder to cut the bad part of the bolt and I put the nut back in...

The relatives who helped me were talking about taking out the swingarm. Do you think that is extremelly necesary?
Isn't there another way?
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Old 11-14-2011, 06:16 AM   #83
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I think what's probably happened is the bolt (#23) has rusted to the sleeve/spacer (#19). You could try some penetrating fluid (we have something called PB Blaster in the US) to see if you can break down the rust. You may be fighting a losing battle though. f you do decide to remove the swing arm, you might be able to use a press to apply enough force to break that bolt free. Be sure to order a new bolt (and nut) though. By the time you're finished, the one in there now is going to be worthless.
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Old 11-16-2011, 12:50 AM   #84
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Today i have been working on the NX125. Still busy dissassembly the bike.

Today i took out the airfilter box, the rear wheel, ...
But when i was unmounting the exhaust system, i had a small problem. The exhaust is mounted with 2 screws into the engine. 1 one those screws snapped. It still sticks out of the engine for 0.5 cm. So the next week i'll spray WD40 on it every day. Then i'm going to grind a slot in the bolt. Then use a slotted screwdriver to try to remove the bolt.

You think this will work? Any other tips&tricks?
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Old 11-16-2011, 06:51 AM   #85
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jan, I think you might be better off using something that can provide more torque. A screw driver doesn't provide that type of leverage. What I might try is a pair of Vice-Grips and perhaps a little heat. If you have access to a brazing torch or soldering set-up (for sweating copper water pipe), apply some heat to the area around the broken stud and then clamp down (hard) with the Vice-Grips. See if the stud will break loose. An industrial heat gun might also provide enough heat to work it loose.
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Old 11-16-2011, 06:58 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jan.van.gent View Post
Today i have been working on the NX125. Still busy dissassembly the bike.

Today i took out the airfilter box, the rear wheel, ...
But when i was unmounting the exhaust system, i had a small problem. The exhaust is mounted with 2 screws into the engine. 1 one those screws snapped. It still sticks out of the engine for 0.5 cm. So the next week i'll spray WD40 on it every day. Then i'm going to grind a slot in the bolt. Then use a slotted screwdriver to try to remove the bolt.

You think this will work? Any other tips&tricks?
Tap it with a hammer to break up corrosion in there. Also, try something like liquid wrench rather then wd40, it might work better. And like above, use something with more torque. Other then that good luck!
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Old 11-17-2011, 06:49 AM   #87
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Hopefully you have something like Liquid Wrench and/or PB Blaster in Europe. You're looking for lubricating/penetrating fluid.
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Old 11-17-2011, 03:07 PM   #88
Leo.G
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So...

You are having problems with the bolts named as 11 here, aren't you?



Why don't you try with a pipe wrench first?

I'm still having problems with the bolt, but as the bike can be ridden anyway.. jeje!

I had to go to the local Dog pound yesterday, and I got a little lost, so well, I took a trail and then realised I was wrong, and I took a few photos in order to show you some countryside of my area...






And me.. je!



Greetings!
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Old 11-18-2011, 12:43 AM   #89
jan.van.gent
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Nice!

You're countryside looks a lot like mine (Belgium, Europe)

This is how my NX125 looks like today.
Now i'm going to sandblast everything, powdercoat everything and rebuild it!



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Old 11-18-2011, 06:45 AM   #90
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You were right Leo, it looks a lot like the central section of the US, also known as "The Great Plains". Most of Oklahoma is very similar but things begin to change as you approach New Mexico. Kansas, Nebraska and South Dakota are also like that, as is eastern Colorado. It can seem very desolate and make you feel very small. It's awesome.

jan: I'm going to do the same thing to my DR650 in a few weeks. Are you going to stay with the same color (silver) for the frame or are you going to switch to another color? My DR frame is purple (factory). I'm going with Honda silver or Suzuki grey (which is what later DR650s have).
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