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Old 10-11-2011, 05:55 PM   #16
gunnerbuck OP
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: N.V.I, B.C.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tseta View Post
What's your long(er) term plan with this bike, Gunner, if you don't mind me asking?

The overlap with your current LC4 is basically 1:1, so will you be selling one or the other later on? Or just riding these two on alternate days? Won't the yearly insurance and registration cost be prohibitive for that?



Cheers,

Tseta
I don't think I'll sell either bike... I'm kinda thinking along the lines of having a 2 bike system where I run one till it needs a major service, then switching to the other... I can then rebuild bike #1 at my leisure and still have bike 2 to ride until it needs service... I also recently picked up components to start building another engine so I have a spare for either of the 2 bikes...

Probably the summer will be the only time I will have insurance on both bikes at the same time, it will cost me an additional $225 to insure the extra bike for 4 months..
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Old 10-17-2011, 10:09 AM   #17
overlandr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerbuck View Post
Remus Twinfire sounds expensive, maybe I shouldn't give up on the twin stacks so soon...
I think Remus is the Euro brand. Over in NA-land, it may be called Sebring. I read that somewhere - maybe - 'ere yer go:

http://investing.businessweek.com/re...capId=22139034

Why not remove it and build your own unique under seat silencer?? Then you could really squeeze any luggage racks that much closer.
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Old 10-17-2011, 11:36 AM   #18
Baja Dad
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I have a complete exhaust system off a 2002 640 adv
I will sell you.
send me a text ( 951-818-0350 ) I will send you a few pics
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Old 10-17-2011, 07:39 PM   #19
gunnerbuck OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baja Dad View Post
I have a complete exhaust system off a 2002 640 adv
I will sell you.
send me a text ( 951-818-0350 ) I will send you a few pics
I wouldn't want to put the smaller 2002 header on my 03 as this would be a step back, thanks for the offer though...
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Old 10-30-2011, 03:14 PM   #20
gunnerbuck OP
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Back at it...

I was stalled on this while waiting for parts, mainly a longer front brake line...

While waiting I picked up another project bike and spent some time to get it up and running:

I figure this bike will be perfect for my son to get his license on... The bike starts easy, runs like a clock And as expected from an unmodified XR 250 L is somewhat lacking in the power department...

So far I have fixed some electrical issues, installed small front turn signals, replaced the rear wheel bearings and added a new inner tube to the back tire... As the clutch cover seems to be always covered in oil residue I have ordered a complete engine seal and gasket kit and will replace all the seals on the clutch side...

I also added some fat bars and hand guards to give it some bling...





f
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Old 10-30-2011, 03:36 PM   #21
gunnerbuck OP
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640


The brake line was to short and instead of sliding in the guides it kinked at the midpoint

The speedo sender wire is routed funny and is probably broken inside and may be the reason the speedo does not show speed...

The keyswitch was smashed off as the P.O. lost the key so I will replace the whole switch assembly as well as the broken cable guide....

Here is the new cable for a RFS MX bike, I was hoping it would be longer but it turns out to be the same length as OEM so I now have ordered another 3" longer...

I spent several hours going through this mess...

This toggle switch was the key to the bike...

I worked on cleaning up this mess as well...

And will build a new bracket for the rectifier..

This is the right side after a bit of wiring clean up and got the brake light switch working...

Had to grind slots in the old keyswitch mounting screws with a Dremel and then use an impact screwdriver to get them out...

New switch in place

Under dash wiring now cleaned up and sorted, everything is tested and now works... All for now...
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Old 10-31-2011, 12:47 PM   #22
makazica
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Feck.

Noticed this thread today.....

I have an 2001 connecting pipe (with cat) and a matching muffler. 0$. You pay shipping if interested.

M.
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Old 11-24-2011, 03:32 PM   #23
gunnerbuck OP
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A few changes


Out with the giant "Braking" front brake and over to a stock unit from an 01 Adventure... This change allows me to swap wheels between both 640s without changing disks... Besides the 320 mm stock stopper has plenty of braking power for my needs...

Bent up a new cable guide out of 1/4" alloy rod and now the lines move up and down with the suspension instead of kinking mid way...

I spent about an hour + soldering and repairing breaks in the speedo sender wire...Lots of ugly tape to re-enforce the repair, hope it works...

Out with the dual pipes...

To be replace with this...
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Old 11-24-2011, 11:59 PM   #24
GodSilla
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Looks like fun there. Just curious, is the motor a shaker or a good 'un?
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Old 11-25-2011, 03:18 AM   #25
johnno950
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Big gun headers by the look,i had a set on my 640 adv many years ago,looks like a good project.
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Old 11-25-2011, 07:20 AM   #26
gunnerbuck OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GodSilla View Post
Looks like fun there. Just curious, is the motor a shaker or a good 'un?
I haven't really had a chance to test it other than a short ride home, but it felt much the same as my prime 640 which I wouldn't call smooth but very tolerable...

gunnerbuck screwed with this post 02-04-2012 at 11:15 PM
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Old 11-27-2011, 10:17 PM   #27
gunnerbuck OP
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Linkage woes...


Started on a linkage service, the dogbones to frame are in very bad shape and have been ridden a long time that way...

The rocker bearing still feel tight so I will clean up, repack them with grease and call her good...

Same for the swingarm...

Started tapping on the frame link bearings with a long drift and it became apparent that they were not going to move...

Worked from both sides and they just started braking apart, leaving the outer race frozen in with rust...

These bearings have never seen grease since the factory...

Next step is to rig a puller and try to force the races out...

A bit of heat might help....

They wouldn't budge so the next step is to cut them with a cold chisel...

Finally got them out....

Next I rigged an emery flapper to clean the tube...

As good as it'll get without removing too much...

Using the new shaft to press the bearings in most of the way...

Then a chunk of ready rod to finish seating the bearings and then to press the seals in....

Finally after much frustration the new shaft is in place...

Dogbones are ready...

And before putting the shock back on I wanted to get the header mounted in place... All for now...





f
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Old 11-27-2011, 10:48 PM   #28
Droptarotter
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Hey Gunner;
Before you put the swing arm back on, why not put a grease nipple in the frame for the linkage bearings?
Mine had to come out the same way yours did, and before replacing them, I drilled and tapped for the grease nipple.
Cheers
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:14 AM   #29
gunnerbuck OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Droptarotter View Post
Hey Gunner;
Before you put the swing arm back on, why not put a grease nipple in the frame for the linkage bearings?
Mine had to come out the same way yours did, and before replacing them, I drilled and tapped for the grease nipple.
Cheers

Yep, thought about doing that long ago on my prime bike, but that thought is as far as I got... I pull the links apart every couple years to repack anyways so it's not that much extra work to pull the dog bones and grease the front bearings at the same time...
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:51 AM   #30
bmwktmbill
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Oh boy, David.
What a nasty job.
Now I know why I regrease everything every 10K miles as part of my usual routine.

My swing arm bolt and bearings suffered some from neglect but I got to it in time to save them.

Are yours salvagable?
bill.
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The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
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