Picked up a 640 Project....

[meat popsicle]

Originally Posted by theGrinch

Thanks gunner, I need to do this to my "99 now you make it look so easy.

Meat Pop I vote this go in the LC4 index.



.

If I dig I could find where Creeper predicted it would be nigh impossible to remove that seal without splitting the cases - so kudos to you David!







(just between you and me, I've been trying to get this fella to take over the index because the material it needs now is outside of my expertise and in his)

[ChrisC]

Originally Posted by meat popsicle

Just between you and me, I've been trying to get this fella to take over the index because the material it needs now is outside of my expertise and in his

Dateline June 19, 2012

It has been reported that the remaining living members of La Famiglia are now showing signs of pre-senile dementia.

Sad but true...

[rz35027]

Awesome Gunnerbuck.

Manuals are great, but videos and a manual...priceless.

Thanks!

[overlandr]

Originally Posted by ChrisC

Dateline June 19, 2012

It has been reported that the remaining living members of La Famiglia are now showing signs of pre-senile dementia.

Sad but true...

Excellent instructional video GB thanks. On another note, long dark winter evenings down here lead one to believe members who move to NY suffer distorted thinking brought about by the greater toxic stress due to reduced east coast air quality. Frequent trips back to CO riding an M20 are prescribed.

[ChrisC]

Originally Posted by overlandr

Excellent instructional video GB thanks. On another note, long dark winter evenings down here lead one to believe members who move to NY suffer distorted thinking brought about by the greater toxic stress due to reduced east coast air quality. Frequent trips back to CO riding an M20 are prescribed.

Can we have an AMEN! Even Aussie wankers suffering from Seasonal Affective Disorder get it right occasionally. I am in the midst of divesting myself of everything eastern and heading west, can't wait.

[Lortdadu]

Great video GB!

[overlandr]

Originally Posted by ChrisC

Can we have an AMEN! Even Aussie wankers suffering from Seasonal Affective Disorder get it right occasionally. I am in the midst of divesting myself of everything eastern and heading west, can't wait.

OI! Repeat after me " I must take my medication before posting". Mood swings are to be avoided as well as posting stuff like this in GBs worthy thread.

[tdreyer]

Originally Posted by gunnerbuck

I noticed while out on the first couple longer rides that the project bikes clutch release point would change... When I would blast up a hill and shift from first to second I really could feel this point change through the lever... Last Saturday I decided to get to the bottom of this and at the same time shoot a bit of video:

Any update on how the new bearing retainer and re-seating of the bearing has worked out?

[gunnerbuck]

Originally Posted by tdreyer

Any update on how the new bearing retainer and re-seating of the bearing has worked out?

I guess I should of mentioned the results: the clutch action is right back to normal.. The release point at the lever remains constant no matter what I do with the throttle or gear selector... That's all good for now after about 100 KMs, but we'll see how it is after 4000-5000 KM, I'll report back then...

[tdreyer]

Good to here. After looking at my hydraulic unit as the possible problem, I must now conclude that this must be the cause of my clutch going limp once up to highway speed and operating temps around 160°.

How much more difficult is it to just pull the bearing, clean everything up, and use some form of loctite to aid in it's proper placement? Are there some special tools?

Also, I have been looking at aftermarket clutch fibers, which are considerable less expensive, but there is no mention of the oddball first plate and the associated o—ring that is shown in the parts listing's and your video. Any ideas on this?

[gunnerbuck]

Originally Posted by tdreyer

Good to here. After looking at my hydraulic unit as the possible problem, I must now conclude that this must be the cause of my clutch going limp once up to highway speed and operating temps around 160°.

How much more difficult is it to just pull the bearing, clean everything up, and use some form of loctite to aid in it's proper placement? Are there some special tools?

Also, I have been looking at aftermarket clutch fibers, which are considerable less expensive, but there is no mention of the oddball first plate and the associated o—ring that is shown in the parts listing's and your video. Any ideas on this?

First thing is make sure your slave and master are not the problem... I found that when the clutch cylinders seals start to go engine pressure at high revs will push slack in the slave piston as to where you need a couple tugs on the lever to put pressure back to the system... The erratic pressure point I was getting from the mainshaft axial play was really noticeable when accelerating and pulling the clutch in at the same time... You could actually feel the clutch spring pressure drop through the hand lever as the shaft slid towards it... Keep in mind that the clutch push rod only moves about 1/8-1/4 " so the extra 1/16" of axial slop I had in the shaft will cause the slave piston to have a sudden pressure drop in those gears that allow shaft movement {2nd}...

I would imagine that the EBC clutch plates would be OK and you could use the oem first plate and O-ring... But are you sure the OEM plates are shot? The stock OEM clutch is one robust unit, it takes a lot of abuse and shows little wear, my other bike had 127,000 km on the clutch and all plates still measured close to the new spec...

For pulling the bearing I was going to rig a system using spokes to fit between the rollers and hook the back lip of the bearing if they are small enough.. Then I would make a plate that the spoke ends would fit through and I could bolt my slide puller to... When the case is warm the bearing moves quite easily... I don't know if this would work but I figure it is worth a try...

[tdreyer]

I have had my share of hydraulic unit woes. I am certain that it is not the case. I have bleed it 6 ways from sunday and while I was triple checking it for the 3rd time I replaced the slave o-ring for good measure.

My issue always arises when either the bike reaches operating temp or when I get up to about 70mph. I believe it is more temperature related than speed because by the time I get out on the highway on my morning commute is probably when the engine reaches it's temp allowing for the bearing to shift?? The operation of the clutch will only return after the bike has set and allowed to cool for a few hours.

No I'm not sure about the clutch plates because I have not pulled it apart yet.Overall the motor has over 122,310km

Sorry for the hijack, thanks very much for your input.

[Faken00b]

Originally Posted by meat popsicle

If I dig I could find where Creeper predicted it would be nigh impossible to remove that seal without splitting the cases - so kudos to you David!

Not impossible... just a bit of creativity and consideration.

[gunnerbuck]

Originally Posted by Faken00b

Not impossible... just a bit of creativity and consideration.

Looks like a great bit of simple engineering...

[gunnerbuck]

Originally Posted by tdreyer

I have had my share of hydraulic unit woes. I am certain that it is not the case. I have bleed it 6 ways from sunday and while I was triple checking it for the 3rd time I replaced the slave o-ring for good measure.

My issue always arises when either the bike reaches operating temp or when I get up to about 70mph. I believe it is more temperature related than speed because by the time I get out on the highway on my morning commute is probably when the engine reaches it's temp allowing for the bearing to shift?? The operation of the clutch will only return after the bike has set and allowed to cool for a few hours.

No I'm not sure about the clutch plates because I have not pulled it apart yet.Overall the motor has over 122,310km

Sorry for the hijack, thanks very much for your input.

No hijack, good stuff, have you put in a rebuild into the master lately? With your mileage it would be a good idea regardless to inspect components under the left side, be sure to check the radial play of the needle set on the countershaft while your in there...