2012 Ninja 650

[p0diabl0]

Originally Posted by ghostdncr

Not sure if the bars are stock, but they have been raised approximately 1.5 inches. The tires are Kendas, which are so similar to the TKC80 you have to count the lugs to differentiate between the two. What I think is coolest about this bike is that anyone with basic hand tools can build one. You don't need a CNC mill and a tig welder to put one together and that's why I'm planning to document all the details in case anyone else wants to go down this path.

Ah I see. Also, looking again, a raised front headlight/fairing area.
Still not much clearance after all that work though...

[ghostdncr]

Originally Posted by p0diabl0

Ah I see. Also, looking again, a raised front headlight/fairing area.
Still not much clearance after all that work though...

True, but if a bunch of clearance is needed, I'll take the WR450F. Still, I've got a lot of faith in that skidplate.
Good catch on the lifted fairing, too. I'd already forgotten about that. My main use for this bike will be secondary and gravel roads, and linking them together with occasional stretches of interstate.

[nachtflug]

Originally Posted by p0diabl0

Looks like the stock Ninja 650r forks. Tires look like TKC 80s. The front fender has been raised. Touring windscreen. Most of the body fairing was cut away and SW Motech crash bars and skid plate look to be installed along with a rad guard. Handlebars look similar to stock but I think they might be a bit wider, hard to tell. Mirrors are bar mounted instead of fairing mounted. SW Motech rear rack, probably their side racks too but cant tell from this pic. Pelicans all around. I think I got everything

edit: almost forgot the seat pad/cover!

so this started as a versys and the fairing is versys with a touring windscreen?

sw moto tech bars and rad guards are off the shelf ready for this bike?

is it as simple as buying a versys and bolting on a few aftermarket items with tires to duplicate this bike?

[ghostdncr]

Mine started as a 650R, but you've nailed the general concept. It's pretty much off-the-shelf.

[pachap]

Nachtflug, about the engine... Versys and the Ninja 650 are the same. The engine is nearly bulletproof. Many owners report no valve adjustment needed until 50k miles. That is part of the reason I will buying a Versys early this summer.

My father, who is 62, has had a 2011 Ninja 650 for over a year now. He bought it at Christmas 2010. It has been very comfortable for him to ride and doesn't give his back any problems. I have had some seat time on it and loved it. It was very easy to handle and the had a smooth even powerband.

That earlier pic of the dirt-Ninja still makes me laugh thinking about all the fun I could have on it :).

[dddd]

-1 on the engine of the ninja 650r.
I own a 2010 with 65000km.
I dont know about the global stats here, maybe I was unlucky, but the valves (checked every 24000km as expected) got noisy after 45000km, and I changed the cam chain tensioner which was gripped (would not extend). Even adjusted, something is still clicking in there, they say it is normal wear... I hate them for that...I wish I could find a good honest mecano.

It also has more blowby since 55000km (and its not a broken piston ring). I burned a lot of oil one month (the crankcase breather tube feeds oil mist because of pressure in crankcase due to blowby, to the air box to be burned), enought to see the red light as oil level got low. I really didn't expect that to happen so quickly.

I think this twin parallel wont live to be 200'000km... I may try to re-hone, oversize the piston once, just to refresh its performance and reduce oil burning (that is, if it is not a total loss).

Oh, another tip for the owners: check your air box drain hose, some are badly installed and corked. From the airbox, this is the clear tube on the right side, and it should go down and horizontally to the left side near the front sproket cover, not down then slightly up over the frame then back down and in front of the real wheel! This tube is supposed to gather condensed oil vapors at the bottom of the air box, but if it is corked, it wont. As your engine gets old, you will end up with a pool of oil in the air box and the pulsing pressure may, just like it happened to me, break the breather tube seal at the air box and drain all this oil all around that area. Once the drain hose is placed correctly (it might be impossible to do without removing the air box, so wait until the next opportunity), you can examine easily now (the tube is easily visible) the amount of oil drained (this hose has a plug at the end) and judge how old (at least based on blowby) your engine is getting.

please note that the removal installation of the airbox is partucularly hard on the breather tube seal at the air box, as thing don't align easily until in place. This is likely how the seal got torn in the first place by a mecano during some rushed reinstallaion ...

[Bongolia]

Originally Posted by Dranrab Luap

If you ever park your bike in a heavy wind, it is much more stable on a center stand. I was at an ADV gathering where a versys was blown over in a strong wind.

Toothies farts are the blasts of legend.

[Matticus91]

Originally Posted by dddd

-1 on the engine of the ninja 650r.
I own a 2010 with 65000km.
I dont know about the global stats here, maybe I was unlucky, but the valves (checked every 24000km as expected) got noisy after 45000km, and I changed the cam chain tensioner which was gripped (would not extend). Even adjusted, something is still clicking in there, they say it is normal wear... I hate them for that...I wish I could find a good honest mecano.

It also has more blowby since 55000km (and its not a broken piston ring). I burned a lot of oil one month (the crankcase breather tube feeds oil mist because of pressure in crankcase due to blowby, to the air box to be burned), enought to see the red light as oil level got low. I really didn't expect that to happen so quickly.

I think this twin parallel wont live to be 200'000km... I may try to re-hone, oversize the piston once, just to refresh its performance and reduce oil burning (that is, if it is not a total loss).

Oh, another tip for the owners: check your air box drain hose, some are badly installed and corked. From the airbox, this is the clear tube on the right side, and it should go down and horizontally to the left side near the front sproket cover, not down then slightly up over the frame then back down and in front of the real wheel! This tube is supposed to gather condensed oil vapors at the bottom of the air box, but if it is corked, it wont. As your engine gets old, you will end up with a pool of oil in the air box and the pulsing pressure may, just like it happened to me, break the breather tube seal at the air box and drain all this oil all around that area. Once the drain hose is placed correctly (it might be impossible to do without removing the air box, so wait until the next opportunity), you can examine easily now (the tube is easily visible) the amount of oil drained (this hose has a plug at the end) and judge how old (at least based on blowby) your engine is getting.

please note that the removal installation of the airbox is partucularly hard on the breather tube seal at the air box, as thing don't align easily until in place. This is likely how the seal got torn in the first place by a mecano during some rushed reinstallaion ...

Thanks for this info I'll have to keep an eye on that. At least it's an easy thing to check on.

I'm flying up on my first service (1,000 miles in a few days!). Would anyone recommend not bringing it to the dealer again and just doing it myself? I am mechanically inclined but I have never worked on a bike.

[Grainbelt]

Originally Posted by Matticus91

I'm flying up on my first service (1,000 miles in a few days!). Would anyone recommend not bringing it to the dealer again and just doing it myself? I am mechanically inclined but I have never worked on a bike.

I tend to let them do it, if only to keep it from becoming part of the warranty discussion if you were to need it.

That said, no reason you shouldn't at least pull a bunch of the plastics off, do a good thorough inspection, and get to know it a little better.

[Matticus91]

Understood. Took it in for it's first service, hit me for $285. Seems like alot, their hourly rate is huge.

Looks like I'll be getting some little additions for the bike too. New brake/clutch levers, HID's, and a 12volt socket for my phone.

[southwade]

2012 Ninja 650 by Southwade, on Flickr

[pachap]

Well I am going to the dealer tomorrow to take another look. I was set on a Versys, but once again have changed my mind. Looking like a Ninja 650 or a FZ6R. I really think I would be very happy with either one. It is still going to be a few weeks before I buy one as I am waiting for some stuff at work to shake down.

[Matticus91]

An update on my bike for anyone interested. I've owned it roughly 3 months now and have decided on 2 things. Firstly, the handlebars need to be replaced with something more aggressive. Even straight bars would be better than these "beach cruiser" bars they have stock. Second point is that the windshield needs to be replaced. It's just way too big IMO.

Other than that, I still love the bike!

[southwade]

I agree with you on the bars, but not enough to spend money on it.

I really dislike the screen too... I needs to be either much bigger or much smaller, it doesn't work well as is.

I'm waiting for Zero Gravity to release their stuff, I contacted them on Facebook and they said it should be soon.

[RaY YreKa]

Originally Posted by southwade

I agree with you on the bars, but not enough to spend money on it.

I really dislike the screen too... I needs to be either much bigger or much smaller, it doesn't work well as is.

I'm waiting for Zero Gravity to release their stuff, I contacted them on Facebook and they said it should be soon.

Puig make very good d/bubble screens; a bit spendy, but I really rate them on sports-touring type bikes.