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Old 02-21-2013, 07:25 PM   #361
danedg
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And then set the rear bearing. I put a thin shmeer of ultra copper sealant on the gasket and set the 8 bolts. (Again with the bolt stopper strips).


I took Pete Ropers suggestion and wrapped the two bottom bearing bolts with teflon tape as they are full through to the case.

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Old 02-21-2013, 07:37 PM   #362
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New main seal. A thin shmeer of ultra copper on the outside rim and set it with the old bearing.



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Old 02-22-2013, 10:08 AM   #363
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I digress

In an earlier photo we can see the existing timing case setup. Of particular interest is the original timing chain "tensioner",
aka "The Blob" on the right. It actually never tensioned anything and sat 1/4 " away from anything. That chain was loose as a goose! (Pun intended)

The chain never really contributed anything to endplay alignment.
I just realized I've lost the second key on the crank.
Anybody got a spare 3 x 16mm Woodruff key in the parts bin?????

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Old 02-22-2013, 10:15 AM   #364
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Yes, I remembered to transfer my oil passage dowels in the front and rear main bearings but I still can't figure out why they are there in the first place.
The whole idea is to sploosh as much oil through the system as possible. Why constrict the flow with the dowels?
It is not as simple as splooshing as much oil around as possible, you need to retrict the flow in certain ways, so that the correct amount of oil goes to where you need it, at the right time, while all the time maintaining a good oil pressure.
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:20 PM   #365
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A good time for the oil breathers to go back in...







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danedg screwed with this post 02-22-2013 at 05:26 PM
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:40 PM   #366
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The timing train proved persnickity to reassemble. I replaced the missing keyway but the sprockets were hesitant to remount on the spindles. They eventually went on. I then threaded the new chain, lined up the timing marks and made the chain link. I got .006 clearance between crank sprocket and case.
The "Valtek" type tensioner sure seems squished in there.
I suppose it's better than the "Blob"...



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danedg screwed with this post 02-22-2013 at 06:01 PM
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Old 02-22-2013, 06:52 PM   #367
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Not to be picky, but was there a reason you didn't clean the block innards? Or is that some special block casting paint?
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Old 02-23-2013, 03:32 AM   #368
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Block casting paint!?
Yeah! That's the ticket!
It's a well known fact that painted aluminum dissipates heat faster.


Just lazy. I wasn't going to media blast it for fear of getting grit in the wrong holes, and I didn't feel the need to pretty it up for it's one and only photo op...
How long would it stay that way if I had taken it back to factory? 5000 miles?
I DID blast stuff like the timing case cover, oil pan, and they are covered with grit. I threw this is the parts washer overnight and will scrub the hell out it in the morning.

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Old 02-23-2013, 05:11 AM   #369
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Top Tip Time...

Take an old cable (throttle, clutch, brake, etc) and splay out the end, use this for cleaning out threaded holes with copious amounts of cleaning agent. The smaller the cable, the smaller the hole it will thread through, even tiny oilways.
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:22 AM   #370
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Block casting paint!?
Yeah! That's the ticket!
It's a well known fact that painted aluminum dissipates heat faster.


Just lazy. I wasn't going to media blast it for fear of getting grit in the wrong holes, and I didn't feel the need to pretty it up for it's one and only photo op..
The old hot-rodders painted the inside of engine blocks with Glyptol to allow oil to drain quicker to the sump.

I would never blast a block: too many small passages for that grit to hide in.

Guzzi blocks respond well to hot soapy (simple green, etc.) water, and then Eagle One etching wheel cleaner.
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:44 AM   #371
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Guzzi blocks respond well to hot soapy (simple green, etc.) water, and then Eagle One etching wheel cleaner.
careful here.
the block responds well, but IIRC my sump turned a dark grey after this.
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:57 AM   #372
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careful here.
the block responds well, but IIRC my sump turned a dark grey after this.
So do transmissions! The block is a different alloy it seems, from the case covers and transmissions. But most of the grey scrubs off with soap and water.
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Old 02-23-2013, 09:09 AM   #373
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Fooking Brilliant!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by England-Kev View Post
Top Tip Time...

Take an old cable (throttle, clutch, brake, etc) and splay out the end, use this for cleaning out threaded holes with copious amounts of cleaning agent. The smaller the cable, the smaller the hole it will thread through, even tiny oilways.
Thanks Kev!
That's just the kind of "insider" info that makes you realize what a damned idiot you really are!
The frayed end also gets into some of the crooks and nannys that the beady blaster missed!
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Old 02-23-2013, 09:22 AM   #374
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careful here.
the block responds well, but IIRC my sump turned a dark grey after this.


i REFUSE to polish my oil pan!
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Old 02-23-2013, 09:25 AM   #375
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To be honest i've blasted crankcases with MANY engine rebuilds and have never had any issues with residual blasting material. I suppose its all about the work involved. If you are happy to wash out/ rinse your work for hours on end afterwards using pipe cleaners, bottle brushes etc you will be rewarded with a finish no other method will provide. If you are not happy to do this work then proceed with any of the other methods that offer a lesser finish.
Rgds
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