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Old 02-09-2007, 11:16 PM   #76
mtrcycllvr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markjenn
It's discussed in the instructions. My take is that it doesn't matter mechanically, but if you do washer first, you have the ability to pull the race from the outside in the future which might be a big help if you ever (heaven forbid) have to do the repair again.

- Mark
I wouldn't do this "washer first" for any amount of money. I suppose you're right, and I suppose your reasoning is valid, but I did and would do over again, inserting the BEARING, then the washer...



Just my questionable two bits..
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Old 02-10-2007, 04:55 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtrcycllvr
I wouldn't do this "washer first" for any amount of money. I suppose you're right, and I suppose your reasoning is valid, but I did and would do over again, inserting the BEARING, then the washer...
Okay, but why?

- Mark
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Old 02-10-2007, 09:07 AM   #78
mtrcycllvr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markjenn
Okay, but why?

- Mark

Mostly becuase I can't SEE the inside retainer, if there even is one. Note the earlier post from someone who poked the bearing iin too far. The thought of shoving the washer end in first just seems wrong. I don't have any more reasoning than that. Well, I put that bearing in quite a while ago, and I don't hear any noise from down there.. ;-)

Wish I had more rigorous logic than that, but I don't.
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1987 Yamaha Venture XVZ-13 (A project...) Wanted, one wrecked VMAX.. PM me!
2001 KTM-300EXC (Sold for cheap, and SO regretting it!!!)
1999 Honda VTR-1000 (the pavement weapon and ass beater..)
2002 KTM-LC4 640 (Eats gravel roads for breakfast..)
2008 KTM-530 EXC-R (The 'sexy beast')
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Old 02-11-2007, 10:11 PM   #79
JP4
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Well, the deed is done. I constructed my own tool and removed the bearing. It came out without any drama or bent pullers. Reassembly was also surprisingly easy thanks to all the folks who have posted here and at Ktmtalk.
FWIW, after reading the recommendation of Sommer and talking to Munn Racing, I decided to put it together with the inner bearing race to the inside and the washer on the outside. Runs smooth like butter now.
I have the tool available to anyone who needs it.

Jeff
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Old 02-12-2007, 02:34 AM   #80
Kaineb
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400, did the bearing swap...

I just finished mine as well with a home made puller. I had a hell of a time getting the bearing retainer bolts out as the stripped like they were made of lead. HEated them and with allot of trouble was able to remove.

The rest went easy and i put the innter race in forst as well witht he washer on the outside. Just seemed the right thing to do and i dont plan on removing the bearing anytime soon.
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Old 06-10-2007, 01:58 PM   #81
boyscout
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So I made my own puller and got the bearing out. It was reasonably straight forward with the exception of finding grade 8, fine thread, 4 inch bolts. They were not to be had in the Bay Area on a Saturday. I ended up with Grade ?, course thread, 4 inch bolts. I figured if they didn't hold up at least it would be good practice at grinding the hooks. I made sure to constantly quench them as I ground them so as not to weaken an already weak bolt. They worked fine so mine must have been one of the "easy" bearings.

A question while I wait for the new bearing to cool and I get over the PTSD of taking a drill to my engine.

I drilled out the rivets and removed the retainer. Looking at the inside of the old bearing race, there is quite a bit of metal bits from the drilling. Although I had everything on the outside covered I figure some of this must have made it into the engine.

What are peoples thoughts on how to make sure anything that got inside does as little damage as possible. I know I will fill it with oil, fire it up briefly and immediately change the oil, but what about flushing some oil in through the empty bearing race before putting the new one in? Should I use a paper lower oil filter for this first run or go with my Scott's? Any other ideas?

Here's a a couple pictures of my hooks. The one on the left was the last and the best one I made. It doesn't look as refined but it did the job and had the least metal removed.


Here's a close up with some measurements


Still thinking on which way to put the inner race in.
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Old 06-11-2007, 11:19 AM   #82
NICO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boyscout
Still thinking on which way to put the inner race in.
What's to think about? Put that bugger in there and button it back up.
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Old 06-11-2007, 12:21 PM   #83
boyscout
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NICO
What's to think about? Put that bugger in there and button it back up.
It's back in. Put the inner race in first and the washer on the outside even though I can't figure out a functional difference between that and putting the washer in first.
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Old 07-20-2007, 07:37 AM   #84
=jompy=
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BIG thx

Hey guys n gals
just wanted to say thx for all the geeky tec stuff , uve saved me at of 's could have saved more if i wasnt so stessed at the time & broke my clutch basket too but hey ho she's back on the road now with more attitude than ever
btw the bikes an 02 Duke II with ive been told an 03 motor(although the motors still black) it had 2600 miles when the mainshaft bearing collasped !!
SOSDD

jomps
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Old 08-20-2007, 10:05 AM   #85
kg23
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Does anyone have a copy of the original KTM technical bulletin (paper/scan)? I can only find the tiny scan in this thread. My KTM dealer knows nothing of this issue and says my bike is only tagged for a subframe bracing retrofit.

I have a 2000 Duke II with 8500 hard miles on it. Owned since new. I suppose the bearing would have failed by now if it was going to, but I would love to get the dealer to replace it on their dime.

BTW, Great effort on all the photos and descriptions of the repair in this thread!

-Kip
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Old 08-20-2007, 10:14 AM   #86
dgunther
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kg23
Does anyone have a copy of the original KTM technical bulletin (paper/scan)? I can only find the tiny scan in this thread. My KTM dealer knows nothing of this issue and says my bike is only tagged for a subframe bracing retrofit.

I have a 2000 Duke II with 8500 hard miles on it. Owned since new. I suppose the bearing would have failed by now if it was going to, but I would love to get the dealer to replace it on their dime.

BTW, Great effort on all the photos and descriptions of the repair in this thread!

-Kip
Not a chance of the dealer replacing the bearing on their dime. It wasn't so much of a service bulletin as a note that basically said - "You can now use this new part # if you want to".

And I wouldn't assume that at 8500 miles it should have happened already if it was going to. From what I've heard they can go early, late, or never.
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Old 08-20-2007, 11:01 AM   #87
NICO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgunther
And I wouldn't assume that at 8500 miles it should have happened already if it was going to. From what I've heard they can go early, late, or never.
+1000 Change out that bearing. If/when it goes, the repair goes from one of easy/moderate difficulty level to major overhaul/PITA/$$$$.

If you are unable to do the work yourself, ask around a bit here and at KTMtalk.com. Someone may be able to help you out. If you live near the Detroit area, I would be willing to come over and lend a hand. (Fill out your profile, so we know where you are. Will help if someone wants to lend a hand.)

Also, there is a penny-tech tool kit floating around via the list at KTMtalk.com that I used. Made removing the bearing pretty painless. The dealer will insist the cases must be split to remove the bearing.

Good luck,
Nico

EDIT: After signing up at KTMtalk.com, use this link: http://ktmtalk.com/index.php?showtopic=44168
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Old 08-20-2007, 02:27 PM   #88
kg23
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Thanks for the feedback.

I guess I will tackle it myself. I need to replace the clutch anyway.

I am in San Francisco if anyone has a bearing puller tool they want to lend/rent/sell. Contact me via PM.

Thanks

-Kip
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Old 08-20-2007, 04:41 PM   #89
NICO
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kg,

Read MarkJenn's guide carefully and heed the advice to use a puller as described in his write-up as opposed to a standard bearing puller that puts the extraction forces on the transmission shaft. Not alot holding the shaft in place laterally and, if it becomes dislodged axially, you are then thoroughly screwed into splitting the cases.

Also, if you have access to a grinder, fabricating the puller should be quite easy. Well described in MarkJenn's write-up as well.

Good luck, and feel free to ask any questions. You are certain to get the right answer here.
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Old 08-23-2007, 02:39 PM   #90
REVjimenez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markjenn
Building a Puller
bloody smart bit of shade tree engineering work...well done indeed
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