Kawasaki take notice, another Ninja Mutant is being built - Page 4

elgato gordo · 12-29-2011, 04:43 PM

Aircraft spruce and Wicks Aircraft have good selections of tubing in both alum and steel.

sailah · 12-29-2011, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pjm204

Haha, I think you just want an excuse to use that lathe. I may take you up on the offer if I can't figure something out over the weekend. I'm trying to get the bike rideable by the end of the weekend.

I do love using my lathe, got me. Won't be by this weekend still in florida. Your machinist could do it in five minutesprobably has the material on hand too

Fastenal usually carries a decent selection of rod but you'll pay dearly. For the tiny amount you need best bet is that machinist. If not alum, he'll have steel which will get you roll ling

pjm204 · 12-30-2011, 04:36 PM

I got the triple and shock back from the shop. I'm working on getting the races out of the steering head. I also need to drop the muffler to get the shock on. The swingarm hits at full extension. Looks like I won't be using the stock exhaust.

sailah · 12-30-2011, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pjm204

I'm trying to get the bike rideable by the end of the weekend.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pjm204

...so tomorrow the bike should be a roller again.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pjm204

Looks like I won't be using the stock exhaust.

Quoted for posterity

ben2go · 12-31-2011, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pjm204

I got the triple and shock back from the shop. I'm working on getting the races out of the steering head. I also need to drop the muffler to get the shock on. The swingarm hits at full extension. Looks like I won't be using the stock exhaust.

I use a brass drift (aka punch) to drive out all bearing races.It is softer than the surrounding steel and will not mar it up causing the new races to be hard to drive back in.I got my brass drift and bearing race drivers from Harbor Freight fairly cheap.

This is the metric bearing driver set I have and comes in a nice red case.They are also marked for the size they fit.
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piec...set-95853.html

This set is cheaper and will probably work for you.It's SAE sizes.
http://www.harborfreight.com/bushing...set-38145.html

I couldn't find a brass drift on the website but they are usually in the area with hammers and punches.Sometimes they are with the misc tools.The one I have is about 3/8 inch round by 8 inches long.

bk brkr baker · 01-01-2012, 04:43 PM

A different kind of Ninja .

pjm204 · 01-01-2012, 09:54 PM

That exhaust looks damn good.

Got new bearings in the rear wheel. Sadly it appears I lost a cush drive rubber. I also cannot get these damn races out of the steering head. My cold chisel just keeps chipping apart. Trying to source a race puller I can borrow.

ben2go · 01-02-2012, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pjm204

That exhaust looks damn good.

Got new bearings in the rear wheel. Sadly it appears I lost a cush drive rubber. I also cannot get these damn races out of the steering head. My cold chisel just keeps chipping apart. Trying to source a race puller I can borrow.

See if you can borrow/rent a slid hammer from and auto parts store with attachments.There is an attachment that you install on the slide hammer,then push it through the bearing race,it pivots open,and catches the back of the race.Then you just give the sliding weight a few hard jerks,and it pops out.Gotta plumbing type hand torch?A little heat above the race may loosen it.

pjm204 · 01-03-2012, 06:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go

See if you can borrow/rent a slid hammer from and auto parts store with attachments.There is an attachment that you install on the slide hammer,then push it through the bearing race,it pivots open,and catches the back of the race.Then you just give the sliding weight a few hard jerks,and it pops out.Gotta plumbing type hand torch?A little heat above the race may loosen it.

I've asked at a couple autozones, it seems now of them have the race puller attachment. I'm going to keep checking. Otherwise I can borrow one from a buddy this weekend. But I hate wasting a week full of worknights

elgato gordo · 01-03-2012, 07:05 PM

If you don't need to save the race you can run a short bead of weld on the inside with a TIG or MIG. I think it shrinks a little after it cools and will come right out.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207549

pjm204 · 01-07-2012, 04:23 PM

I got the races out and the new ones in. Front end will be bolt on at this point. The issue I have is that I don't have the nuts for the stem and I don't know what stem it is to get replacements. I was told it is an Ohlins YZ450 stem, but someone else said it looked like a Pro-Taper. Dimensions for the threads are 30mm and 26mm approximately. The nuts from a YZ450 stem do not work.

Rear end is done once spacers are made...

ben2go · 01-07-2012, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pjm204

I got the races out and the new ones in. Front end will be bolt on at this point. The issue I have is that I don't have the nuts for the stem and I don't know what stem it is to get replacements. I was told it is an Ohlins YZ450 stem, but someone else said it looked like a Pro-Taper. Dimensions for the threads are 30mm and 26mm approximately. The nuts from a YZ450 stem do not work.

Rear end is done once spacers are made...

Check with a local tool supplier.They usually know all the hardware suppliers around and can get the od sizes sometimes used on motorcycle stems.Check here http://www.fastenal.com/web/home.ex and see if you have one close by.They have saved my but on many occasions.

sailah · 01-08-2012, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pjm204

I got the races out and the new ones in. Front end will be bolt on at this point. The issue I have is that I don't have the nuts for the stem and I don't know what stem it is to get replacements. I was told it is an Ohlins YZ450 stem, but someone else said it looked like a Pro-Taper. Dimensions for the threads are 30mm and 26mm approximately. The nuts from a YZ450 stem do not work.

Rear end is done once spacers are made...

Check the outside diameter and use a thread pitch guage so you know what need. I'll check my stock again to see if I have one.

pjm204 · 01-13-2012, 07:20 PM

Top nut is M26x1.25, Bottom nut is M30x1.25. Neither of these are common sizes but I was able to find nuts on a Roketa parts website so I ordered them. I also ordered the wheel spacers for the front wheel I was missing. Just need some spacers for the rear wheel made.

For people that are running the R1 shock. Have you found that it hits the stock muffler? I have no intention of using the stock muffler but I was planning to ride the bike to a different location to weld up the new headers

jdrocks · 01-14-2012, 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pjm204

For people that are running the R1 shock. Have you found that it hits the stock muffler? I have no intention of using the stock muffler but I was planning to ride the bike to a different location to weld up the new headers

very close, but no hit.

12-30-2011, 04:36 PM	#48
pjm204 ^OP Beastly Adventurer Joined: Jan 2010 Location: Philadelphia, PA Oddometer: 1,243	I got the triple and shock back from the shop. I'm working on getting the races out of the steering head. I also need to drop the muffler to get the shock on. The swingarm hits at full extension. Looks like I won't be using the stock exhaust. __________________ Current bikes:2006 DL650, 2006 Ural Past bikes: XT225, TTR125, CRF50 1974 DT125,1970 TS250,1985 v45, 1989 zx600c, 1978 GS400x, 1999 GS500E, 2001 GS500E 2005 Z750s, 1977 GS400e, 1982 GS1100ez, 1997 GSX600, 2007 VFR800, 2003 KLR650, 2003 FJR1300, 2006 DL1000, 2000 KLR650, 1999 WR360, 2008 DL650, 2005 DR650,2008 EX650r, 1996 CR500, 1982 GS450T

01-01-2012, 04:43 PM	#51
bk brkr baker Beastly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2006 Location: The Bluegrass Oddometer: 4,149	A different kind of Ninja . __________________ RR's Catnip Hill to Peoria ___Loopin' Seattle to WestFest It started with some beers __1500 miles to the Dentist Skeedaddle to Seattle______ A 30 year old on a Three Flags Run

01-01-2012, 09:54 PM	#52
pjm204 ^OP Beastly Adventurer Joined: Jan 2010 Location: Philadelphia, PA Oddometer: 1,243	That exhaust looks damn good. Got new bearings in the rear wheel. Sadly it appears I lost a cush drive rubber. I also cannot get these damn races out of the steering head. My cold chisel just keeps chipping apart. Trying to source a race puller I can borrow. __________________ Current bikes:2006 DL650, 2006 Ural Past bikes: XT225, TTR125, CRF50 1974 DT125,1970 TS250,1985 v45, 1989 zx600c, 1978 GS400x, 1999 GS500E, 2001 GS500E 2005 Z750s, 1977 GS400e, 1982 GS1100ez, 1997 GSX600, 2007 VFR800, 2003 KLR650, 2003 FJR1300, 2006 DL1000, 2000 KLR650, 1999 WR360, 2008 DL650, 2005 DR650,2008 EX650r, 1996 CR500, 1982 GS450T

01-07-2012, 04:23 PM	#56
pjm204 ^OP Beastly Adventurer Joined: Jan 2010 Location: Philadelphia, PA Oddometer: 1,243	I got the races out and the new ones in. Front end will be bolt on at this point. The issue I have is that I don't have the nuts for the stem and I don't know what stem it is to get replacements. I was told it is an Ohlins YZ450 stem, but someone else said it looked like a Pro-Taper. Dimensions for the threads are 30mm and 26mm approximately. The nuts from a YZ450 stem do not work. Rear end is done once spacers are made... __________________ Current bikes:2006 DL650, 2006 Ural Past bikes: XT225, TTR125, CRF50 1974 DT125,1970 TS250,1985 v45, 1989 zx600c, 1978 GS400x, 1999 GS500E, 2001 GS500E 2005 Z750s, 1977 GS400e, 1982 GS1100ez, 1997 GSX600, 2007 VFR800, 2003 KLR650, 2003 FJR1300, 2006 DL1000, 2000 KLR650, 1999 WR360, 2008 DL650, 2005 DR650,2008 EX650r, 1996 CR500, 1982 GS450T

01-13-2012, 07:20 PM	#59
pjm204 ^OP Beastly Adventurer Joined: Jan 2010 Location: Philadelphia, PA Oddometer: 1,243	Top nut is M26x1.25, Bottom nut is M30x1.25. Neither of these are common sizes but I was able to find nuts on a Roketa parts website so I ordered them. I also ordered the wheel spacers for the front wheel I was missing. Just need some spacers for the rear wheel made. For people that are running the R1 shock. Have you found that it hits the stock muffler? I have no intention of using the stock muffler but I was planning to ride the bike to a different location to weld up the new headers __________________ Current bikes:2006 DL650, 2006 Ural Past bikes: XT225, TTR125, CRF50 1974 DT125,1970 TS250,1985 v45, 1989 zx600c, 1978 GS400x, 1999 GS500E, 2001 GS500E 2005 Z750s, 1977 GS400e, 1982 GS1100ez, 1997 GSX600, 2007 VFR800, 2003 KLR650, 2003 FJR1300, 2006 DL1000, 2000 KLR650, 1999 WR360, 2008 DL650, 2005 DR650,2008 EX650r, 1996 CR500, 1982 GS450T

12-29-2011, 04:43 PM	#46
elgato gordo KTMRFS Joined: Oct 2007 Location: ABQ, NM Oddometer: 441	Aircraft spruce and Wicks Aircraft have good selections of tubing in both alum and steel.

01-03-2012, 07:05 PM	#55
elgato gordo KTMRFS Joined: Oct 2007 Location: ABQ, NM Oddometer: 441	If you don't need to save the race you can run a short bead of weld on the inside with a TIG or MIG. I think it shrinks a little after it cools and will come right out. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207549

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