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Old 10-26-2011, 06:10 AM   #16
pjm204
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I'd be happy to sell you the fairings from my ninja, PM me if you're interested.
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Old 10-26-2011, 10:25 AM   #17
jake28 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoffa509 View Post
After my wife's Buell Blast went down it lost all power. I surfed the Buell forums and got the technical solution of tapping the lean angle sensor. It seems it gets stuck once it is tripped. Worked fine afterward.
But a stuck lean angle/tip over sensor wouldn't kill power to everything, correct?
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Old 10-26-2011, 10:26 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by pjm204 View Post
I'd be happy to sell you the fairings from my ninja, PM me if you're interested.
No fairings are going back on this bike. Nature decided to remove them by force and who am I to argue with nature?
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Old 10-26-2011, 10:27 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by dentvet View Post
Good energetic narrative.

I have a pretty nice blue tank available.

The headlights won't fire up until the bike is running but that doesn't explain the total loss your describing. Most likely in the main switch.

Here's a great 650 site
http://homepages.slingshot.co.nz/~shanetp/Index.html#_Manuals_&_Parts_1

Say more about this main switch.
And many thanks on the 650 site, that is most excellent and I added it to the list of resources.
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Old 10-26-2011, 11:34 AM   #20
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I've gone through the wiring harness, everything seems to be intact and plugged in.

ECU fuse is good.
Starter fuse is good.
I tapped on the tip over sensor thinking it might reset.
I tried pulling on the clutch and starting to over ride the starter interlock.

Ideas?
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Old 10-26-2011, 12:55 PM   #21
sanjoh
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WTF is a "roadie-adventurer"


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Old 10-26-2011, 01:02 PM   #22
jdrocks
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has all the indicators of a blown main fuse. did you pull this fuse located under the cover at the starter relay? if the fuse is good, do you have voltage there?

the bike has two ground wires, engine and chassis. make sure these are tight. no ground, no go.

when you get it running, put the volt meter on it and check the charging system, your looking for 14V. wrecked Ptwin bikes that have gone down on the left (generator cover side) sometimes have stator damage.
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:59 PM   #23
Roadracer_Al
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Modify your own cables. If you can solder copper plumbing (or know someone who can), you can make your own cables.

1: understand that the most important part of a cable is the "stick-out" -- i.e. when you pull the cable all the way to one end, how much of it sticks out from the sheath. When you modify the cable, you need to install the new end so it has the same stick-out. While you're measuring stuff, measure the diameter and length of the cylindrical "ball" on the cable.

2: when you figure out how long the sheath needs to be, mark the sheath. The cable *should* have a little bit of solder holding the sires together so it won't fray. Use a dremel tool to cut the cable, then cut the sheath, and slide it off the end.

3: use a small pick or screwdriver to release the crimp from the end cap - it could be a plain cap, it is probably a threaded adjuster. Transfer this to the new, shorter end. Cut the cable to match the stick-out. Don't forget to allow for the width of the ball before you cut. If you cut too short, you can always compensate by shortening the sheath -- up to a point.

4: make a new "ball" for the cable. I've made them by chucking a brass screw in a drill and filing them to size, but these days prefer to use a lathe. Cross drill slightly larger than the cable, and install the new ball on the shortened cable. Using an awl or small screwdriver, flare out the wires in the cable so the ball end doesn't fall off. You could also put a couple tiny little "L" bends on the wires to capture the ball. If you do this, you'll have to clean up excess cable at the end of the process.

5: here's the key technology: a solder pot. I use a 1/2" cap, a standard copper plumbing fitting. First I put a dollop of flux inside the cap, and hit it with a propane torch, then melt solder into the cap until it's about 1/2~3/4 full. This is several feet of solder. When you re-use the solder pot, wipe off the old flux (it will congeal on top) and replenish it with new flux before heating.

6: apply flux to the cable, and to the ball. Heat your solder pot with a torch until the solder is completely melted. Remove the flame from the solder pot and insert the ball/cable assembly into the solder pot and keep it there. The flux will melt, and the ball & cable will come up to soldering temperature. Remove the cable from the solder pot only when you see shiny solder wick upward in the cable. It may require a little extra heat from the torch ONLY on the solder pot - don't burn the sheath. Quickly clean the flux off the cable and ball with carb cleaner -- this also has the effect of cooling the cable so it doesn't melt the teflon liner. If you have excess cable sticking out the back of the ball, touch it up with the dremel.

It's beer o'clock!

---

On edit - I just saw your post in my own build thread that you're local -- you can bring the cables by and I'll help out.
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Old 10-26-2011, 05:09 PM   #24
sailah
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The clutch, side stand switches won't kill power to the main fuse just the ignition circuit so your problem is before that.not sure on tip over though.

As stated those ignition bolts are a bitch. I had some creative swear words on that project. Course they are designed to not get drilled out...once you either grind them off or drill them they are easy to back out with vise grips.
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Old 10-26-2011, 06:05 PM   #25
OaklandStrom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake28 View Post
In an upbeat and totally serious manner, Gerry broke the hushed apprehension with: "Yeah, I can fix that. I'm going to rip out a section, weld a section, pocket the metal, pump it out, put it the frame press, hit with about 6 tons, throw the motor in it, check the mounts, laser align it, and then you can race it in about three weeks. Pricing will be fair but not bad."
I'm not surprised that a bike that twisted can be fixed - but doing it for less than the price of a used frame is impressive.
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Old 10-26-2011, 06:26 PM   #26
jake28 OP
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Originally Posted by OaklandStrom View Post
I'm not surprised that a bike that twisted can be fixed - but doing it for less than the price of a used frame is impressive.
I didn't even consider the finances. What impressed me was the ease, optimism, and honesty with which Gerry looked at the wreck and said he could fix it.
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Old 10-26-2011, 06:29 PM   #27
jake28 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadracer_Al View Post
Modify your own cables. If you can solder copper plumbing (or know someone who can), you can make your own cables.

Snip

It's beer o'clock!

---

On edit - I just saw your post in my own build thread that you're local -- you can bring the cables by and I'll help out.

Yah, I'm going to take you up on that offer. I've heard that you can build your own cables, but I've never done it or seen it done. I would do it just for the experience. Let me know what your preferred beverage and moto work area is and I'll see you there.
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Old 10-26-2011, 06:48 PM   #28
jake28 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanjoh View Post
WTF is a "roadie-adventurer"
Short answer: If you have to ask, you are not riding the right roads. More accurately, you are not riding any roads with the correct perspective.

Longer answer: There is a mistaken belief prevalent on this website that dirt has to be involved to have an adventure and that GPS routes, imported CNC-machined master cylinder guards, and extensive debates over tire compounds and oil viscosities are necessary to prepare for an adventure.

No.

I'm building a bike that will see road and tarmac 99% of the time. I admit that. I know it. The fact that this is a road bike has nothing to do with the level of 'adventure' which it will provide the platform for. Riding to work on potholed streets in an urban environment is an adventure, daily. Riding through rural areas with a tent and pocket stove bungied to the seat is also an adventure. And if I find gravel, I will ride gravel. And if I find dirt, I will ride dirt. And if I find you, your wife, or your gorgeous daughter, I will politely wave hello and and continue riding on whatever surface I have come across.


The bike never has been, never is, and never will be the limiting factor in my, your, or anyone else's ability to have an adventure.



From "Song of the Sausage Creature" by Hunter S. Thompson

"Pure speed in sixth gear on a 5,000-foot straightaway is one thing, but pure speed in third gear on a gravel-strewn downhill ess turn is quite another.
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Old 10-26-2011, 06:51 PM   #29
jake28 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrocks View Post
has all the indicators of a blown main fuse. did you pull this fuse located under the cover at the starter relay? if the fuse is good, do you have voltage there?

the bike has two ground wires, engine and chassis. make sure these are tight. no ground, no go.

when you get it running, put the volt meter on it and check the charging system, your looking for 14V. wrecked Ptwin bikes that have gone down on the left (generator cover side) sometimes have stator damage.
These are excellent leads. I didn't know there were two grounds, the only one I have come across and saw in the manual was on the engine case. I'll hunt down the frame ground later (hints appreciated).

EDIT:
Located the frame ground (no help from kawasaki manual on that one). Intact, connected.

I borrowed a multimeter and went at the bike in a rather simian fashion. I readily admit I'm not sure what I was doing, but I did get results. Multimeter set to Ohms (Omega sign) resistance (I think). Battery leads hooked up directly to a tender.

There was power at the ECU fuse, the main fuse, the ignition, and both grounds. There was no sign of life at the dash, or the starter. What next oh electircal lords?
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jake28 screwed with this post 10-26-2011 at 10:14 PM
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Old 10-26-2011, 07:55 PM   #30
ben2go
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Originally Posted by jake28 View Post

I'm building a bike that will see road and tarmac 99% of the time. I admit that. I know it. The fact that this is a road bike has nothing to do with the level of 'adventure' which it will provide the platform for. Riding to work on potholed streets in an urban environment is an adventure, daily. Riding through rural areas with a tent and pocket stove bungied to the seat is also an adventure. And if I find gravel, I will ride gravel. And if I find dirt, I will ride dirt. And if I find you, your wife, or your gorgeous daughter, I will politely wave hello and and continue riding on whatever surface I have come across.

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