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Old 10-05-2012, 12:57 AM   #421
Steve canyon
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Pakse

Hey Big Fella..

I've caught up, great reading...we stayed in that Hotel last year, man where we pleased to see it



Same place?



Nice place with great food.

Chock Dee..
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Old 10-05-2012, 01:37 AM   #422
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Thanks for the updates bigfella, loving the continued adventure. I have been in asia long enough that not much sets me off, but those dogs tied up in the baskets would have had me fit to be tied. Yeah, I know, everyone has to eat and all that, but I would have had a hard time being a passive observer with that...I have a soft spot for dogs I guess, and not much gets me as riled up as seeing them treated poorly.
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Old 10-05-2012, 05:47 PM   #423
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Smacka - yes, I'd love a nice shiny pair of new boots... and did try to obtain some when I was in Chiang Mai, but they didn't even come close to my size. There's no point flying some up either... I have to spend a fair bit of time shopping for boots to get something to fit. There is good news though... I took a day off yesterday and finally found some gaffer tape. I've been able to keep the insulation tape on the leg of the boots - both zippers are shot - but keeping it on the soles has been impossible. Its gone after the first bit of water or pushing through mud. Hopefully the gaffer tape will last.

Yes.... the airbox is an issue, I've been lucky enough to find boats at all the deeper crossings so far. I've had it deep enough to be wondering why it wasn't dying on me though. The Super Enduro is much better in that regard. The guys I was riding with up on Cape York told me the water got onto the headlights in one river crossing there on the Frenchmans Track. This thing wouldn't have a hope there. I believe there are both deep and muddy river crossings on the agenda for today.... and its probably time I got moving.

Steve.... no. I'm in Attapeu at present. Stayed two nights at the Attapeu Palace. Quite nice. Good food too... even had Ostrich kebabs. I'm aiming for Pakse today... but will be staying cheaper there. There's a hard to get map of Cambodia waiting for me at a guest house.

Motomuppet.... yes, agreed. I've got a soft spot for dogs too. I've even been known to pat some of the local ones. I'll not be deliberately eating dog.

Sheesh... time to drag these weary bones down to breakfast and try out the southern loop to Pakse. I believe there's some nice waterfalls on the way.
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Old 10-06-2012, 07:07 AM   #424
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Methinks I'm a tad stuck at present. I found the bike's water depth limit... and then some. It took on a bellyful and I've got water in the oil... which is no great worry, as I'm carrying enough spare.

A dead flat battery brought the day's proceedings to an early end after I'd managed to get the bike running (kick started it). I'm 5km up the track from the bike.... with the battery and all my gear, which I paid some young lads to move up here for me. Hopefully I can get some charge into the battery tomorrow.... and "tomorrow", in Laos, is what the locals keep saying.

I'll be heading back the other way... I've waded through a lot of deep water and clinging mud between the bike and this village and the locals say its more of the same further on. I think I've convinced them to take me back to the bike tomorrow on a farm chugger. What I really want is a hand back through the creek that drowned the bike. I reckon that with a bit of effort back in Oz, I could fashion up a MUCH better airbox setup. The bike would be safe in another foot depth of water.

I had a rather nice rodent soup for dinner... with some forest birds thrown in too. What was that about not eating forest birds?

The boots gave up the ghost today too.... and that's a problem. When I stalled in another mudhole, the right boot fully disgraced itself. Too much frigging rain. Fancy that in the monsoon season. Who'd a thunk it?
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Old 10-06-2012, 07:14 AM   #425
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You are a fucken legend !!!
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Old 10-06-2012, 07:21 AM   #426
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Hey BigFella you'd be better off with a pair of flip flops than those boots - at the very least you would save half a roll of gaffa tape everyday.
Great report and yes legend status
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Old 10-07-2012, 04:46 AM   #427
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Not so sure about that. It would be possible to get through there methinks... but not solo. A group of four could do it... or someone solo with plenty of time and maybe a couple of big tubes to float the bike across.

I'm a tad worried that I might have a head shave coming up. The cushions I got last night for a pillow had never been washed and were somewhat grimy. Then I watched everyone in the village removing nits from everyone else's head for half the day until the solar panel got the battery happening and I could summons up enough help to carry the bike back out. That didn't happen until 2pm. Village life is somewhat relaxed.

If I'd taken the bike back to the village, there'd have been two more carries just to get there.... and a lot more on the other side, so I came back to Attapeu. I'd have tried it but my visa is just about expired. Gotta get near the border.

I got back here just before dark. Knackered. Had to change the oil, of course. Wasn't too watery, but better safe than sorry.

.... and my boots did the trip back, thanks to most of a roll of gaffer tape.

I'll post up some photos of the rat roast later.
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:57 AM   #428
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Here's a short clip of what it was like trying to get through from Attapeu to Pakse. This was the easy bit.... then I drowned the bike



At least the food was good





In fact, rat seemed the most readily available protein.

And, of course, the locals were friendly.



More later... the net's a bit thin here.
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:11 AM   #429
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Getting back to my drowning the KTM.....

I'd had a pretty decent, if tiring, ride out from Attapeu... The plan then was to do the southern loop to Pakse. It rained pretty heavily, as usual and the road out to the first river crossing was wet and sloppy in places



It pays to watch where you are going with the bridges. Its 20' down there...



and more here



These young guys tried to stay ahead of me and paid the price. They drowned it.



I showed them how to lift the bike up to drain the exhaust... and left them to sort out the rest of it



The rider was the small kid... second from the left.

First river crossing... now a couple of hundred meters from where it used to be



It wasn't looking good





That was the easy part. I diverted around some real sloppy bogs, but got to a creek where there were no other options. I made it most of the way over. Here's where the waterline ended up, which is apparently too high




For once, I would have been better on the Super Enduro. It'll take much deeper water in its stride.



I got it out of the stream, but she wasn't going anywhere.... until some local lads came along and helped me push her up through the mud to some flat ground.... which wasn't easy btw.



She'd gulped some but I drained the carb, cleaned out the airbox and got her where she'd almost keep running before the battery shit itself. I managed to fire her up properly with the kickstart... which wasn't doing my foot much good...



Dunno why it was hurting?

Anyhow, I pressed on, trying to reach the village... but dropped into another mudhole and stalled it. Some more locals came along on foot and helped me push her out again... and we decided to push to the village when I couldn't start it again.

That lasted for about 500 metres until it became a bad joke. I pulled the battery and left the bike on the track and we walked and waded the last few km to the village. The lads were carrying my gear at first, but ducked into the jungle and came out with a trolley



Plenty of this stuff on the way... with my boot flopping around. The "dry" bits meant I grew about 40mm in height with a layer of clay on the boots... which felt like they weighed half a tonne.



We went through two spots where the bike wouldn't have made it....



I'll admit to being knackered by the time I got to the village. This is where they lodged me... one of the little "shops" attached to a hut.



The locals were welcoming



Nothing like a bit of Giant Squirrel to pick things up again though...



All such protein gets a quick roasting to remove the fur or feathers.... creating quite a stink, before being gutted (and the nice bits, like the liver, being thrown in the fire and cooked. The meat goes into a stew or is roasted. Yep, we had squirrel, rat, bird and lots of jungle vegetation. My gut hasn't recovered yet.

Boots are fixed now and I've picked up another four rolls of masking tape to keep them together for a while longer



I had a really nice time in the village. Its dirt poor. Lots of naked kids wandering around... simply no clothes for them. My large breasted friend with the training bra simply had one shirt... and if it was being dried, she wandered around in that little bra. Lots of people came over to see the Farang. I counted 30+ people in the kitchen area of our hut at one stage.... and its about 4 metres square.... under the main hut. All the huts did their cooking on one of those simple log fires under the hut. Water out of a barrel.... either rainwater or fetched from the paddy field. I still dunno if or where the latrines were. I didn't see one anywhere... and I was told to pee in the bushes.

I entertained folks showing them some of my photos on the laptop. The only TV I saw was when a genset cranked up and a TV was on in another of the little shops, watching kickboxing for an hour.

Some random village shots





My hostess



Her hubby slept just outside the shop in a hammock. Not sure if it was to make sure I didn't pilfer the stock... or to make sure I behaved with the locals?

















Four or five rats, one squirrel



One guy wandered in and showed me some bullets he'd found



Getting out took some effort. I charged the battery off a solar panel. It was dead flat... 11.7 volts. I got it up to the proper 12.7... and then spent some hours assembling a team to get me and the gear back to the bike... leaving about 2pm, then the bike back to the deep creek... and then we carried it back across



Payoff time for the crew....



I was a happy chappie



I still had some trouble getting out. Here's me stuck in some bamboo that the locals could get under but I had to drag the bike back out and go through the slop instead.



I did a quick and dirty oil change.. sump plug and oil cooler only.



... and had a shitty ride back down the same road... now even sloppier after more rain... lots of bogged trucks and motorbike crash marks





Interesting fish traps on the paddy field outflows




Here's some photos from yesterday. The day started with another totally collapsed wheel bearing.



Luckily they had that size in Attapeu. I've got a spare set coming down from Vientiane now, along with brake pads, filter oil, some synthetic oil (5 litres... a change now, a litre to use and a change for the next drowning.... a new undersized knobby and tube (all I could get was an IRC 110/80/18) Unfortunately I couldn't source a new front sprocket. I had a horrible noise happening yesterday which seems to be the front sprocket. $300 for the bits.

I headed up the tar towards Pakse, with the thought in mind of doing the dirt track that branched off and headed to Paksong and then Pakse if it looked OK. I found that and slip slided my way along it for a while - it was quite slippery and I went down a fair bit on the rear tyre pressure. I found a dam construction site along the way

.

Not tall, but very wide

I started to get a bit suspicious when the only visible tracks were bikes....



I was having serious doubts when a bad graunching noise... metal on metal started..... that front sprocket.

There was a fabulous waterfall, visible by riding up onto the bank beside the road. It was a couple of hundred feet high at a guess... and absolutely thundering



It wasn't the safest perch up there though. These aren't rain ruts... its the start of a landslip.


It will go in the next big rain. I'd already found out why the trucks had stopped... landslides that had to be ridden over.



There's no getting a truck or 4WD over that... certainly not without some winching as just this little bit of it is about 15' up, very steep and soft and slippery, with a very nasty surprise off the edge if you make a mistake... you'd have a long time to consider your departure from the planet on the way down.

I had to dig a few trenches... about 12" deep by the time I'd chugged through



I got through the bad landslips and came back into an area with people

I headed into one of the little villages off the road to try and sort out what was going on with the graunching



It was all very National Geographic when I rode in, but I better not post those shots. The lads gave me a hand and a bit of sump oil on the chain quietened it down





I headed to Pakse, in a massive rain dump for 50km or so.... and met up with two fellow Aussies, Clarissa and Neil, who I'd met in Malaysia. They are on airhead BMWs - highly modified. A 1000cc and a 650cc.

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Old 10-10-2012, 05:12 PM   #430
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We made some progress with the bike yesterday. The bus from Vientiane with the parts, oil and tyre was late, of course, but showed up eventually. Neil, who is a mechanic, and I found a bike shop and we set to on it. The bike shop owner, who, of course spoke no English, did the tyre. I supervised while Neil went off to get some baby powder.. It was the first time I've seen the bead broken with a cold chisel and hammer.

The front brake pads were just onto the metal and the rears had about a half mm left. Its almost laughable, but I've retained the rears as "spares". Despite me using engine braking where possible and also having run out of fluid in the front master cylinder.... I rode a couple of days with zero front brake.... I only got from Nakia to Pakse on a brand new set of EBC red front pads. Without spending an hour on Basecamp... I'd guess at maybe 600 to 700 kilometres from brand new to totally gone. The mud here is rather abrasive.... and its deep, so the caliper is in it a lot. The disks are shot too, of course... but they aren't getting replaced just yet.

The new rear wheel bearing already have some movement in them... they've got 200 km on them. I'm guessing Chinese manufacture. They seem to have perfected micro-thin hardening as a manufacturing technique. At least I'm carrying good spares now.

This workshop had some decent tools and I was able to get the short screen out... the intake screen for the oil pump that handles the gearbox. I'd had a set of scooter forks on a T-bar at the first place I changed the oil... and was twisting the T-bar.... but with a decent 1/2" drive socket and breaker bar, I got it here. Just as well. The damn thing was covered in silicon. When I pulled the main oil filters the first time, someone had siliconed the o-rngs. I'd cleaned all that out of course... and hopefully this is the last of it gone. None came up anywhere else. It was a good ten minute session with a toothbrush and petrol to get it all sorted.

Everything done, I did the usual and bought some Beer Lao for the lads at the bike shop. It was Red Bull while they worked on my bike... Beer afterwards. Of course. A local came in on a Honda Shadow.... 200cc cruiser... for a new front tyre. His was totally bald... with a 2" round patch of canvas showing. I've got a photo of that somewhere.

We were watching a Farang woman in the street opposite. Her body language wasn't good and her boyfriend turned up and spoke with her a couple of times as she walked down the street and then rode off again. It didn't look good and we decided she needed to be asked if she required rescuing. So... my brand new IRC knobby.... slick, of course, with the new tyre coating... and still with bead seating pressure.... about 4 times what its designed to be ridden at.... left a 30' black arc down the road with a 2' chord in it. A nice sideways departure that Neil said really impressed the lads. Unintentional.... of course. Fortunately, we'd misread the situation with the woman. Nothing new with that. She and her boyfriend were simply gettng used to riding a scooter in a quiet street. Maybe her body language had something to do with how badly he was riding?

I'd promised Neil and Clarissa dinner atop the Pakse Hotel as a thank you for his assistance with the bike. That's something well worth doing in this town. Get there early, grab a good seat overlooking the Mekong and watch the sunset. Lovely. Food was great too. Wine was even better. Lovely Rothschild Bordeau.

Today is suck it and see what happens day. I'm off to the police station after brekky to see if they will give me a week's visa extension. I'm told its $2 a day and that they will. I'd like to have a look around here before dashing for the border. If they won't... my visa runs out today. I doubt they'll extend the bike import permit.... so I'll have to pay a fine for overstaying that. The guideline for the fine is $5 is reasonable $10 is unreasonable. I can handle that.
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:18 PM   #431
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I've been a tad slack on the updates, and given last night was a bit punishing... I'll sit here and catch us up.

I ended up dodging flying bullets in Pakse. At least one person appears to have ended up dead.

I was riding over to the market when I passed an obvious "ruckus" at a tyre service. I pulled up for a stickybeak at how the local cops handled things (I developed a customer service strategy for a certain police force, once upon a time - a very interesting assignment). There was a plainclothes cop there with a handgun and I heard several gunshots from inside the building and then bottles came flying out, smashing on the road. I decided that being "different" might not be a good thing if events erupted into the street and I moved on. When I came back past an hour later, it was all over. I asked the plainclothes cop how it ended and he gave the thumbs down sign.

I went to the market to get a new rucksack to replace the one that had a minor, losing, altercation with the rear wheel the other day. I guess I better start safety roping again. The only damage was to the rucksack and an oil container... but it could have been nasty if the oil had got onto the tyre in the rain



The volume of gear I'm carrying had increased, of course. I got extra oil in - and this stuff is packed appallingly - a one litre bottle has damn near a two litre outside space the way its packaged... handle on it, etc. I'm carrying gaffer tape too - as can be seen above. The only other extras are a MAG t shirt and a string hammock.

I like this photo Neil took the other night when I shouted he and Clarissa at the Panorama restaurant atop the 5 or 6 storey high Paske Hotel as a thank you for his assistance with the work on the bike.



The farewell feast for Neil and Clarissa was our best effort at a wine and cheese evening here. We got the only bottle of olives we could find, the only cheese (sliced cheddar from the US... think Big Mac cheese), some nuts, Pringles and a bottle of plonk from France.



The Bigfella numberplate was a bit of an afterthought.... and it didn't last long. I lost it on my first offroad ride, heading down the west bank of the Mekong to the border. That's why the bike's plate is in my backpack. Neil and I bought a few other stickers too...

I'd said goodbye to Neil and Clarissa a day before I left Pakse. They headed to Vientiane or thereabouts. I'll probably see them again in Chiang Mai... before they head back to KL and fly their bikes to Europe.



After leaving Pakse, I headed down to Wat Phou and then stayed in a guesthouse near there. The guesthouse restaurant consisted of wooden poles, floorboards with 1" gaps, tin roof, no walls - and also doubles as the accommodation for the family of, I think 7 that run the place. It is 25' above the Mekong and 15' from the water's edge.... grey. overcast but bright and the air has been hazy... like smoke .for several days.

My waitress was, oh, maybe 7 years old, and well polished at the art. It turned out there were five of them there in the morning plus the parents... all sleeping on a long bamboo mat on the restaurant floor. This one, the eldest, was my waitress. All kids work here it seems.




The Mekong at Champasak is wide - I checked on the GPS and its over 2km wide - and still fast flowing. I had the pleasure of a race boat going past for a training run. I saw it being repaired on the way in... all the seams had been filled with epoxy and they were scraping it down as I rode past it on the bank.



They had 33 paddlers in it... chanting as they went hard at it. I love these boats.

They were doing some chainsaw slabbing for boatbuilding there too. The boat was being repaired at the spot the bike ferry lands.

I shared a small ferry with a Corsican guy and his Balinese girlfriend.



30,000 baht per bike. $4. The guy had tried for 50,000 and I offered 5,000. So... 30,000 it was.

There's a lot of water out there - all headed that last 100 metres down to sea level.



I came across the river (yet again) to visit the ancient Pre-Khmer ruins of Wat Phu.



There's a lot of similarities to the temples at Siem Reap.





Yeah - I climbed the damn thing wearing cordura/leather trousers - and my taped up boots. Sweated like 40 bastards. At least I had water.



I knew by now that my Chinese rear wheel bearings weren't going to get me far. They wern't too flash... at about 250km on them. The bike had a leaking front tube too, but I wasn't in the mood to fix it. I pumped it and rode the day before ... and did the same again. I decided to do that until I saw a bike shop or it started going down too fast. I've been carrying 3 spare front and 2 spare rear tubes, so that wasn't an issue... just the lifting it up (or laying it over) and doing the damn tyre. I would, of course, regret not fixing it then. I damn near bit the bitumen as a result.... with a rather wild and exciting 95km left hand corner and flat front tyre featuring strongly.... but that was two days down the track.

I ended up escaping rom Laos that day... about 3 days ago now. It felt good to be back in Cambodia (I spent a bit over a week here a couple of years back). The friendly nature of the Cambodians hasn't changed. I love it.

I'll admit to being less than friendly in my last Laotian encounter... just a few km from the border. I went in to see the cascades, which are the largest in SE Asia... where the kilometre wide Mekong drops 15 metres. Its a lot of water. I arced up when faced with a sign that said:

"Entry, locals 5,000 kip... Foreigners 30,000 kip".

I complained about the discrimination and the guy at the gate's attitude got up my nose. I ended up throwing 5,000 kip at the guy's feet and riding in (he wouldn't take it out of my hand). They had a go at me at the falls too and we had a "discussion" about racism... although, I guess if they charge Cambodians as foreigners, maybe it isn't racism. Nothing pisses me off more than this sort of tripe. Its illegal in Thailand I think and I did refuse to pay this sort of stupid premium at a museum in Melaka, Malasia. Some places handle it better... eg the temples. They don't flaunt the price discrimination on a big sign, they just tell you the price and hand you a VIP ticket. Yeah - they still rip off the Farang, but it hasn't got the "up you" element to it.

The Mekong at the cascades



... and earlier in the day.


I posted a photo of the local race boat being tuned up. Here it is in the morning, they were taking it out for a training session blast



Yep. 33 of them.... plus the coaches in another boat



Not a lot of freeboard there when they all dig in

.... and one more of the guys training... heading back upstream



The local tourist boat for the southern Mekong in Laos came past. The smoky looking humidity haze is apparent.

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Old 10-16-2012, 08:12 PM   #432
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Epic as usual - thanks for the update, it's a great adventure to follow.

I'm back on Koh Tao after a few weeks in Adelaide and a few days in Penang. I'm trying to get a few people together for a white water rafting trip in northern Thailand but everybody here is too cheap to do it!
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Old 10-16-2012, 08:38 PM   #433
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.... and there goes over an hours writing. Poof. Gone. The second half of that update. Just about to post and the window decided to close and that's it.

Why don't we get autosave on this forum? Seriously. I've never had this issue on another forum. If that happens it comes up "Restore Autosaved Content?" Yes please.

Compiling in Word doesn't work.... unless there's some merlin magic I'm not aware of for getting photos and videos to work.

I guess its just me and my big boofy hands. I don't like writing a five-photo post.... but I guess I'll have to resort to that.


.... and Finch. Thanks. So when are you thinking of going rafting? I've seen some amazing white water up here... and a hell of a lot of brown water, of course.
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Old 10-16-2012, 08:48 PM   #434
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There are autosave extensions for Chrome and Firefox and Opera, you should check them out. No idea if there's similar for Internet Exploder but that's a shitty browser anyway.

We're probably going to do the typical overnight Pai to Mae Hong Son thing, though I've heard that there is one operator that does a multi day trip somewhere else in better water. Will have to investigate further, at this stage I'm still looking for recruits.
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:08 PM   #435
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well behave the middle man in between

after found out who they, thou shall not save anymore bullets

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