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Old 11-23-2011, 08:57 AM   #31
surtees
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thanks Oz. Opened up the other 40mm and it also has just a few pits. Guess I will probably bite the bullet and get new pistons in the OEM kits. Strange that there is not a source for the just rubber OEM kits. Now on to the MC...
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Old 11-23-2011, 10:49 AM   #32
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I may get my new pistons delivered today. In the meantime, I'll take the fork tubes off and clean everything well. A good article is at http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/frontforks.htm .



Got the forks apart and cleaned up. (Yes, I did both fork tubes, one at a time. Only showing one.)


Forks back together.


Back on the bike.

craydds screwed with this post 11-23-2011 at 12:02 PM
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Old 11-23-2011, 11:04 AM   #33
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1/4" x 10" x 12" plate glass.


Dial indicator.


Forks aligned. see http://aatherton06.home.insightbb.co...age/TITLE.html




Pictures show the basics, for demonstration only. Notice, gauge is not zeroed. This is only a prototype fork gauge. Stay tuned as it is developed.

craydds screwed with this post 11-23-2011 at 11:06 AM Reason: addition
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Old 11-23-2011, 02:15 PM   #34
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You bet I'll stay tuned, I have been waiting for someone to show a proper fork alignment procedure, we were trying on another forum to put that one passed someone who did not want to understand how critical it can be.

How are you doing with them calipers? Sometimes hard to push the pistons back in there, lubing with brake fluid is the way to go but it is important to remove all traces on the outside/behind the dust seal. It is Hygroscopic and any leftovers will attract moisture and bring back the corrosion. Once cleaned and done I usually put a trace of good brake grease in there and also in the back of the dust seal, keeps it from eventually drying out and failing.

Can't see your cover too well through the glass (Or my glasses...)but looks like it could use some of that:

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Old 11-23-2011, 02:49 PM   #35
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Look at that article (above, #33) about fork alignment. Good information. For my calipers, I am expecting new pistons, seals, and dust covers (it was all in a kit) to arrive today; waiting on UPS. Calipers should go back together nicely, thanks for the tips. What is the brake grease? What brand/type to use? About my timing cover, they call that a "patina", not available in stores.

craydds screwed with this post 11-23-2011 at 02:54 PM
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Old 11-24-2011, 09:21 AM   #36
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Ah the Patina....darn went to the local shop to get some pics of a beautiful R90S they had in there last summer, it is gone. My old GS had a little too much of that "Patina" read corrosion, that Rub & Buff is good stuff, Wax & Pigment will help prevent the re-occurence of the Patina. Funny...it is sold to "Patinate" or "Antiquing" metal parts.

Anyway the Brake Grease, all Autoparts should have something like that, also very good to treat all the rubber bits on your bike to prevent cracking and even renew dried up rubber. All sillycone based now so maybe a warning not to use it to mount the pistons in the caliper it may not be compatible with some brake fluids.

There are some Brake Greases that can be used to mount internal brake system parts but I'll be darned if I can find some of that unless I go through industrial wholesalers. My very old tube of "compatible with brake fluids" grease is empty after 20+ years.

Your Kit may even come with a little package of grease, maybe enough to do the job.

The fork alignment thing...been there done that, I just get tired of seeing recommendations on other forums to do it like we used to do on dirt bikes in the old days, doesn't work too well on faster bikes.

Your pics just jogged me up a bit so I did buy some plastics yesterday, gave me a good idea how to mount the deflection gauge on the tire balancing jig so I can check wheel/rotors run out.
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H96669 screwed with this post 11-24-2011 at 09:27 AM
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Old 11-25-2011, 03:16 PM   #37
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Thanks for the info on the brake grease; I've looked at info online so I'll eventually get up to speed. I have the latest version of the dial indicator jig completed.
parts:

back:

front:

in use:

and:

craydds screwed with this post 11-28-2011 at 12:52 PM Reason: pics
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Old 11-30-2011, 11:26 AM   #38
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Now I am waiting on fork seals to arrive. So, back to the calipers.

I would like to find some of this ATE caliper assembly paste:
http://www.ate-info.de/en/products/d...-paste-180-ml/

One could use:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-290-11087/

Or:
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Automotive-...=3RK07TH8DCQZ5

craydds screwed with this post 12-05-2011 at 10:41 AM Reason: additions
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:13 PM   #39
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Got new brake pads, pistons, seals, dust covers, o-rings, etc. Brake pads are EBC FA22's from Ted Porter's, http://www.beemershop.com/ . Pistons and seals are a kit for 38 mm ATE, part no. 34-11-2-301-705, from Max BMW, http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/fiche.aspx .



Seals and pistons go in nicely.


craydds screwed with this post 12-01-2011 at 05:50 AM Reason: pics
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Old 12-01-2011, 10:44 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craydds View Post
back to the calipers.

I would like to find some of this ATE caliper assembly paste:
http://www.ate-info.de/en/products/d...-paste-180-ml/

One could use:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-290-11087/

Or:
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Automotive-...=3RK07TH8DCQZ5
Interesting you found some, the Summit Racing stuff looks like what I have been looking for.

Don't know about the 3M, too many diverging opinions on the Web as to what should be used and their compatibility with brake fluids. 3M says this on their sheet, a little obscure but looks like mostly external parts:

"General purpose lubricant for metal-to-rubber applications, caliper guides, caliper seals, wheel cylinder seals."


I see Parker O-Ring lube recommended here and there and checking their specs on the TDS, they certainly say "Not Compatible" with brake fluids.

A quick test I have seen would be to mix the lube with brake fluid and see if it dissolves, that's good if it does otherwise I may just be worried about little clumps of lube plugging the system and that wouldn't be good.

Or.....you may just like that one, good old Vaseline:

http://www.capeparts.com/Operational_Manual.pdf
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Old 12-01-2011, 03:57 PM   #41
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vaseline not good for rubber parts/seals, not compatible with brake fluid, nor is any other petroleum product such as motor oil, etc. I ordered some Wilwood assembly lube, for the next projects.

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Old 12-05-2011, 10:39 AM   #42
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master cylinder looks good.


disassembled and cleaned.
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Old 12-05-2011, 04:12 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by craydds View Post

All in good condition, just need a thorough cleaning.

Craydds,
What's happening with your forks in this pic? I'm not seeing the rubber bumper that sits inside the bottom cap and you have some short springs.

What sort of setup is this?
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Old 12-06-2011, 11:21 AM   #44
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Those are the "Luftmeister Anti-Bottoming Springs", installed many years ago (Luftmeister was still in business). They are springs that replace the bottom rubber bumpers, to slow and reduce fork dive under braking. Yes, I was a sucker for anything that was supposed to make the bike work like magic. I have ordered the stock rubber bumpers to replace the magical springs; the springs are going into the parts bin. The key is to have good fork springs, and set pre-load for laden sag correctly. Stay tuned (this project will take many more weeks to complete).

craydds screwed with this post 12-06-2011 at 11:25 AM Reason: additions
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Old 12-06-2011, 05:02 PM   #45
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Thanks craydds for that description. No wonder I couldn't find that setup in the parts diagrams.
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