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04-10-2012, 08:39 AM
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#106 | |
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n00b
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Wine Country
Oddometer: 8
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Master Cylinder Rebuild
Greetings,
I'm new here and facing the dreaded master cylinder rebuild myself. I am looking for the o ring between the reservoir as well. Any help would be appreciated. My bike is a 9/1975 (year model 1976) Daytona Orange r90s w/41k on the clock. I've had it since 1980 and the brakes just failed. Ordered the rebuild kit from A&S since the main seal was leaking, not the reservoir seal, but I had to take it all apart and am suspect reusing the old o ring. Thanks in advance. Quote:
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04-11-2012, 10:02 AM
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#107 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Oddometer: 994
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Is the o-ring damaged? Was there a leak at the reservoir? If no leaking or no damage to the o-ring... re-use the o-ring. Need more info.
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Ray ABC #12947 '75 R90S |
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04-11-2012, 10:06 AM
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#108 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Oddometer: 994
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If you need a new o-ring, check with http://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=h27lun .
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Ray ABC #12947 '75 R90S |
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04-12-2012, 10:43 AM
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#109 |
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n00b
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Wine Country
Oddometer: 8
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Yes the o ring is toast. When I tried to remove it with a toothpick it cracked in 4 pieces. It did not seem to be leaking before the removal, but now needs to be replaced. The MC is 17mm, anybody know the correct size to spec a replacement ? Also, is the current consensus to replace brake lines when a rebuild job is done ? If so, when the new lines are made up, what about the in line rubber grommett ? I don't think it will fit over the end fittings. Does it come installed on the new lines?
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04-12-2012, 11:30 AM
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#110 | |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Oddometer: 994
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Quote:
2) Some have said to keep the stock brakes lines, that they last forever. Unless they are damaged, you can keep them. Oak recommends using only the stock BMW brake lines. However, several inmates make and sell brake hoses. I made my own. (pictures to come, soon) 3) Grommet does not come with new lines. It is a separate item. The small end of the brake hose will slip through the grommet.
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Ray ABC #12947 '75 R90S |
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04-12-2012, 11:37 AM
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#111 |
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because I can
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 6,076
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I wonder what Oak says now that some BMW's come stock with steel braided teflon lines? I know from first hand experience many times over that the stock rubber lines do not last forever. Steel braided teflon lines last a long time! Way longer than rubber and they work ten times better in between.
The rubber grommets will stretch over. #3 braided has a smaller OD than the stock rubber lines. I have been using the same stock grommets for decades with no problems. I went to steel braided lines in '88 I believe it was. I would never have rubber lines on my own bike. |
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04-12-2012, 12:11 PM
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#112 | |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Oddometer: 994
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Quote:
I just read an article by Oak about the brake hoses, but I think he was referring only to the older models that came with rubber hoses. He recommended using only the stock hose... curious. Don't think he mentioned the new bikes at all.
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Ray ABC #12947 '75 R90S |
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04-12-2012, 02:07 PM
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#113 | |
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n00b
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Wine Country
Oddometer: 8
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Quote:
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04-12-2012, 02:41 PM
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#114 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Oddometer: 994
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Look at post #42, see if that picture helps you.
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Ray ABC #12947 '75 R90S |
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04-12-2012, 03:54 PM
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#115 | |
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because I can
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 6,076
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Quote:
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04-12-2012, 10:43 PM
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#116 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Oddometer: 2,536
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Quote:
I had to match up correct oring at a local O ring supply house. finding correct size is no big deal... getting correct rubber compound that will withstand brake fluid is critical. all the information with part numbers is in my bringing R90S back to life thread if oring doesn't work
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Bringing BMW R90S back to life, R80G/S, LiFePO4 testing Which is more reliable ... Points or Electronic Ignition for Airheads? |
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04-13-2012, 08:42 AM
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#117 | |
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n00b
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Wine Country
Oddometer: 8
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Quote:
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04-13-2012, 09:57 AM
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#118 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Oddometer: 994
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You have to bleed the air out of the entire system in order to generate hydraulic pressure. Elevate the caliper above the master cylinder, open the bleeder screw on the caliper, squeeze the hand brake lever, close bleeder screw, release brake lever. Keep master cylinder full of fluid. Repeat, again, and again. It's nice to have a helper, but you can do it alone. Bleed 'em.
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Ray ABC #12947 '75 R90S |
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04-14-2012, 08:12 AM
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#119 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Oddometer: 994
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Fritzie, any luck getting that piston out? Let me know. There are several ways to remove a stuck piston. Here are some suggestions:
1. Remove the caliper; remove the external dust seal. 2. Soak the caliper in diesel. 3. Use a hammer and a drift; knock the piston inward. This may break the rust "bond". 4. Heat the piston with a torch. 5. Try the grease gun method as supershaft, et. al, have described. 6. Use curse words as needed.
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Ray ABC #12947 '75 R90S craydds screwed with this post 04-14-2012 at 08:58 AM |
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04-14-2012, 01:39 PM
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#120 |
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n00b
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Wine Country
Oddometer: 8
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Piston Still Stuck
I'm working on the grease gun method. Do you guys braze a zerk onto a bleeder screw ?
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