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Old 12-24-2011, 04:58 AM   #196
kramnamhoh OP
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auto hotel

It gets too late to make it to Antigua. I am sure Iíll be coming back to Guatemala some day soon, so I decide to leave that for the next trip. So, off to Copan I go. I got some great, very appreciated help researching where to stay (thank you Tania!) unfortunately, I cant make it that far before dark. I see Ďauto hotelí, so I pull in to see what the rates are. There is a bunch of garage doors that say Jacuzzi on them, but no hotel reception. I drive around for a few minutes, and then get frustrated and leave. I stop at the next Ďauto hotelí and itís the same thing. Inside of the garage is a phone and a sign saying ď3 horas for 80 quetzals.í Itís then that I figure out itís a prostitution motel. I park the bike outside of the garage and pick up the phone. It plays a jingle and the garage door starts to close. I step outside with the motorcycle while the door closes. About a minute later, it opens again. Very differentÖ
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Old 12-24-2011, 04:59 AM   #197
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,

,
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Old 12-24-2011, 05:00 AM   #198
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be happy!!!

be happy!!!
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Old 12-24-2011, 05:04 AM   #199
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mom n pop motel

Ok..i really need a motel for more than 3 hours. So I find a mom n pop hotel down the road. I make sure its for the entire night. It costs about $8 for the night, and there is a restaurant on site. I park the bike in the restaurant!!, and the Ďmomí makes me some really good tacos. I think they are the best ones Iíve had yetÖ.
Mom also has her son sleep on a cot next to my motorcycle for the night!!! that is really great, and also says something about theft in guatemala....
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Old 12-24-2011, 05:06 AM   #200
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i love these tacos!!!
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Old 12-24-2011, 07:45 AM   #201
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Oh Yeah! I will add Sumac Champey to my return trip in the spring.

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Originally Posted by kramnamhoh View Post
the bridge to sumac champey...way fun!!
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Old 12-24-2011, 07:27 PM   #202
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Lets go do some laundryÖin a riverÖ.

Lets go do some laundryÖin a riverÖ.
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Old 12-24-2011, 07:31 PM   #203
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honduras baby!!!

The Guatemala/Honduras border crossing takes about 2 hours to get all the paperwork done for immigration and customs on both sides, make multiple sets of copies, multiple checks of motorcycle, etc. Itís a really good place to test whether you are an optimist or a pessimist. I have heard so many people say how difficult it is to cross the borders in central America. All kinds of horror stories about it taking all day. I took the two hour crossing in stride. Was talking with people, making jokes, taking pictures and trying to have fun. I guess that confirms Iím an optimist. Hopefully, I will remain an optimist at the Nicaragua border crossing!!
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Old 12-24-2011, 07:35 PM   #204
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copan

Another set of ruins!! I had thoughts of just riding by, and continuing on to my destination. I didnít think anything would be as good as what I had already seen. Iím glad I stopped. Copan has some very interesting and unique stone carvings.
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Old 12-24-2011, 07:39 PM   #205
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lost again

Off I go to cross as much of Honduras as I can in one day. There is two routes across Honduras without going into el Salvador. I decide to take the shorter of the two with what looks like a short secondary road section. All is good. Traffic is a bit more crazy in Honduras. The road quality is a little bad here. There are some really bad, chewed up areas of the road with really big potholes. Itís a whole lot of fun weaving around the potholes, and dodging the cars that are weaving around them into my lane. The road is basically 2.5 lanes. The .5 down the middle is the passing zone that you can use at any time, even if there is oncoming traffic. Iím starting to get used to seeing cars coming directly at me in my lane, with only one crazy moment when one of them leaves me no room on my side, and I have to go around him on the left, and then whip back to the right before the next car.
At the gas stop I notice that the gas station attendant is carrying a pistol. That is something new. Iíve seen plenty of security guards with pump shotguns all over, but this is a first. There is also another security guard by the front door with a pistol.
I get to the town where Iím supposed to turn. Cool, itís right at the mileage I saw on the map, so I feel good about the way I am going. I pass through town and cantí find the road. So, I go back and look again. No road. I see one business sign that matches the town name on my map, but the entrance sign to the town says something different than my map. GreatÖfín AAA map has the wrong name. I make another pass through town about 5 miles in each direction and still no road. I stop at the Honduran police checkpoint, and in a whole lot of Spanish they tell me I have to go back to the town about 1.5 hours back to go where I want to go. Now, Iím thinking my AAA map shows a road that isnít there!!! I get kinda annoyed and decide to go to the next town called Marcala where another road turns off and goes my direction. Before I get to the mileage for Marcala, I come across some sort of checkpoint with gates. At the first one, they open it and wave me through. I get stopped by some very excited people at the second gate. WTF??? I can see immigration on the other side of the gate. Is this el Salvador already?? Iím so lostÖthis doesnít make any sense compared to my AAA map. I decide that Iím just going to check out of Honduras and go through el Salvador. Itís not that far through el Salvador, so what the hell. Meanwhile, the excited crowd of Honduras officials is rapid firing Spanish at me and pointing at all kinds of stuff on my map. Iím kinda used to that when the map comes out. I let them know that Iím going on into el Salvador. They track down someone that speaks passable English, and then it all starts making sense. Somehow, I got off on the wrong road 1.5 hours back. Iím about 50 miles from where I started the day. The reason I couldnít find the road I wanted and the town name didnít match was because I am completely lost. The reason they are so excited is that they do not want me going into El Salvador alone on a motorcycle. They are insisting that I go back and go through only Honduras to get to Nicaragua, and that going forward is a not a good idea. I think about the only story I know of El Salvador, where the motorcycle riders had to pay off the police at checkpoints to get through. The English speaker keeps insisting that the best way for me to go is all the way back to the north of Honduras, and then across the middle of the country. He points to the roads I was looking for and says the are gravel back roads the will take all day to cross. They sound like the screwed up road I ended up on yesterday (that my AAA map also showed as a secondary highway.) By this time itís getting dark, so back to the town with the wrong name to find a place to stay. I stay at the nicest hotel in town (it is my birthday) for $22. For that I get wifi, a shower with a real shower head and hot water, and breakfast with huevos and frijoles and a list of other Spanish words I donít understand. I have dinner across the street at the papusa place. I recently heard about papusas. I have no idea what they are, so I go get some. They are like mini-quesadillas, and are pretty good. I also have a pepsi with dinner. I think they are the same as Cokes down here in that they use sugar cane for sweetener instead of corn syrup, which makes them tastes a whole lot better.
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Old 12-24-2011, 09:02 PM   #206
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I got lost after leaving Copan also, ended up staying in La Esperanza, leaving La Esperanza I could not find the road to Marcala so went north out of town towards Seguatepeque then at Seg. turned south to Teguucigalpa and made it all the way to Ocotal Nic. in the 1 day. Hotel Bel Rives in Ocotal is 250 cordobas on your right when you see the esso station at the first main intersection in town. If you tell honduran aduana you will be returning on your way back, they will keep your information ( Se retiene temporalmente la forma..... por salida a nic.) for your TVIP and stamp your passport that they have your info and you will not have to pay for another permit, the only catch is you have to return at the same crossing that you left from, in my case Los Manos because they physically keep your info in a big pile of papers. Los Manos opens at 8am.so on my return I got there at 7.45 and was done by 8.05 and then rode down to El Salvador, you should not miss El Salvador!

Thanks for doing this report!
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Old 12-25-2011, 05:23 AM   #207
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wild west

It's like the wild west in Honduras...there is security everywhere with shotguns and pistols. The banks have multiple guards with shotguns or machine guns in hand. Last night the security guard at my motel sat out in the parking lot by my motorcycle with his shotgun. This gas station attendant had a pistol on his belt. The grocery store last night had at least 5 security guards roaming the aisles with shotguns. The store manager had a pistol. There was a lot of security throughout Guatemala too, but it seems more prevalent here in the wild west.
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Old 12-25-2011, 05:41 AM   #208
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more wild west....

Wild Honduras roadsÖ. The roads often turn to gravel with no warning. Iím happy to be on the KLR. I think Iím putting the overloaded KLR to the test as I hit some bumps really hard. I admire the people that come here on GSís and Vstroms. I wouldnít want to be on my Vstrom here. There are some sections of pavement filled with potholes too. The cars routinely go into the oncoming traffic lane to dodge potholes. I have a video of cars weaving all over road dodging potholesÖ.itís funny. It seems the rule is the smaller the vehicle, the more you have to make way. You canít ride along and daydream here. You never know when the road will turn into a 4wd path, that there is a giant pothole in front of you, or a bus/truck/car will be in your lane coming at you.
Earlier on this trip, I almost ran into a front tire size hole missing its cover in mexico in a road construction zone. I remembered to watch for missing manhole covers on this trip. Anyway, in Tegucigalpa, I learned that you can just ride right over them if you are going fast enough. I ran right over two manholes that were missing their covers.
I saw one pothole in the mountains that had to be at least two feet deep. There was no warning signs or cones or rocks warning you. I donít think I could have just rode over it. The overloaded KLR will take some surprising hits, but I think even it has its limitsÖ..
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Old 12-25-2011, 05:43 AM   #209
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.on my side of road...again....

.on my side of road...again....
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Old 12-25-2011, 05:46 AM   #210
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chaos in the gravel sections...it's not oncommon for cars to be passing the cars that

chaos in the gravel sections...it's not oncommon for cars to be passing the cars that are passing. It happens on the main highway too.
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