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Old 03-24-2012, 08:41 PM   #1591
coop74
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Location: Alcoa, TN
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I have found them to be great all around tire... the suck on wet grass deep mud but very few street rated tires do well in mud.
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Old 03-25-2012, 07:43 AM   #1592
Mile Maker
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Location: Southern Alberta, only 150 km to a curvy road
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon B. View Post
I've given quite a bit of thought to this device.

And, I've decided that it simply, for me, is a waste of money. Here's why I think so:

The stock thermostat isn't a sealed "valve". There's a significant gap that allows coolant to pass through even when it's "closed".

A thermostat is an analog device,not digital. It isn't "open", then "closed" (on/off or one/zero). It opens gradually, as the coolant temperature increases.

The idea that your KLR's engine experiences shock cooling is probably absurd. As it gradually warms, coolant 'leaks' past the thermostat, allowing a gradual warm-up. When the engine finally reaches its upper operating temp, the thermostat very gradually opens, allowing coolant to pass through the water jacket, slowly cooling the cylinder.

Is the T-Bob an improvement over the stock t-stat? Very likely. Is it a required piece of hardware? Probably not.

Want one? Hell's Bells; buy it. Please don't tell me that I'm a damned fool for not installing one, though!

Jon

Simply watch the temperature gauge on a cold day. Do you see how the temperature slowly builds up to the
160 deg it takes to open the t-stat, then the temp drops quickly, and slowly rises again. If you havent seen this, go riding.

With the thermo bob the temp rises to 190 and stays there. period.

The bike run better at proper operating temperature. Get out and ride on a cold day and you will see for yourself. if its 50 deg and sunny out i'm riding. In those temperatures the bike runs crappy with the stock setup.

This is one of the few products on the market that does exactly as described. period.
Anyone who hasn't seen these wide temperature swings on the temp gauge is blind. And odiously the temperature swings are worse when it is colder out.
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:16 AM   #1593
nakedwaterskier
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Location: Woodland Hills, CA
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Thermo Bob could do some good but there are at least 40 mods to my bike I would do before it.
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Old 03-25-2012, 12:28 PM   #1594
jonyfi
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Location: Greenbrae, California U.S.A.
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basic headlight on/off switch install

Well after 10 years since I last had a KLR (since then had a GS 1100, then a KTM 950) I am back with one...
I bought a '93 for cheap ($300) that was in pretty good condition (ya it needed a little tlc) for some extended moto touring/adventures that lie ahead.

Now that most of the repairs and mods are done...one of the remaining things is trying to maximize power usage/availability. With the BMW GS (especially) and the KTM I paid little attention to all the power I was using for heated and powered gear, but with the limited KLR electrical power output, I need to be more attentive. I did a little research on past postings and have a better understanding of what extra power is available, and it seems like one of the best things I can do is just be able to turn off the headlight to get more watts. Initially I don't want to spend the almost $100 it will take to buy a new switch and relocation bracket, so I want to see what simpler switch mods others have installed...

I realize I can just unplug the headlight, which is simple enough (and I may just keep it at that), but a switch would be a little more convient...

Look forward to seeing some mods...
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Old 03-25-2012, 12:32 PM   #1595
BigT
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I like the switches that turn off all the lights and have an option to turn off just the tail and brake light.
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Old 03-25-2012, 01:44 PM   #1596
RandoCommando
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Location: Philthadelphia, Pennsylvania
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HID and LED is the way to go.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonyfi View Post
Well after 10 years since I last had a KLR (since then had a GS 1100, then a KTM 950) I am back with one...
I bought a '93 for cheap ($300) that was in pretty good condition (ya it needed a little tlc) for some extended moto touring/adventures that lie ahead.

Now that most of the repairs and mods are done...one of the remaining things is trying to maximize power usage/availability. With the BMW GS (especially) and the KTM I paid little attention to all the power I was using for heated and powered gear, but with the limited KLR electrical power output, I need to be more attentive. I did a little research on past postings and have a better understanding of what extra power is available, and it seems like one of the best things I can do is just be able to turn off the headlight to get more watts. Initially I don't want to spend the almost $100 it will take to buy a new switch and relocation bracket, so I want to see what simpler switch mods others have installed...

I realize I can just unplug the headlight, which is simple enough (and I may just keep it at that), but a switch would be a little more convient...

Look forward to seeing some mods...
I actually switched out my instrument lights, high beam indicator bulb, neutral bulb, license plate bulb and tail/brake bulb to LED bulbs. I also have a 35W HID light to install that will shave about 20 watts down from the 55W halogen bulb.

With these changes, I stand to free up 60watts maybe? I haven't done the math yet.

In Pennsylvania, it's illegal to ride a motorcycle without lights on. It may be that way in other states as well, so check your laws.

The only reason I would have an on/off switch for the headlight is for initial starting of the bike. This way I don't blow the HID out. I can't fathom driving a motorcycle without lights. We're hard enough to see as it is.
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Old 03-25-2012, 02:03 PM   #1597
jonyfi
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[QUOTE In Pennsylvania, it's illegal to ride a motorcycle without lights on. It may be that way in other states as well, so check your laws.[/QUOTE]

Ya, i realize that and am willing to do the disconnect thing in the U.S. (and just play ignorant "oh, look it just came undone") outside of the U.S. though I would rather not have to do that...

Ultimately, I do want to install some kind of basic switch...hopefully there are some folks out there who have done it..

Where did you get the L.E.D. lights for the instrument panel? I guess I could go check out the local auto parts store for an L.E.D. light for the rear, I like the super bright $80 ones but I have spent all my budget on the bigger more important upgrades and repairs so from this point on (unless absolutely nec) I am trying to keep things on the cheap...
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Old 03-25-2012, 03:06 PM   #1598
RandoCommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonyfi View Post
[QUOTE In Pennsylvania, it's illegal to ride a motorcycle without lights on. It may be that way in other states as well, so check your laws.
Ya, i realize that and am willing to do the disconnect thing in the U.S. (and just play ignorant "oh, look it just came undone") outside of the U.S. though I would rather not have to do that...

Ultimately, I do want to install some kind of basic switch...hopefully there are some folks out there who have done it..

Where did you get the L.E.D. lights for the instrument panel? I guess I could go check out the local auto parts store for an L.E.D. light for the rear, I like the super bright $80 ones but I have spent all my budget on the bigger more important upgrades and repairs so from this point on (unless absolutely nec) I am trying to keep things on the cheap...[/QUOTE]

I ordered all of my LED lights from superbrightleds.com.
I'm actually going to spend $90 for that LED flashing tail/brake light and either keep this LED bulb as a spare or sell it.
I'm also in the process of having a dash made for my KLR that will have a cigarette lighter plug, BMW powerlet plug and 4 switches. Two switches will operate the plugs, one will operate the HID headlight, and one will be spare for other lights or items.
There are quite a few that have installed a switch for the headlight setup. Give it time and someone will post about it.
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Old 03-25-2012, 03:33 PM   #1599
nakedwaterskier
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Location: Woodland Hills, CA
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When I got my HID setup from China for 25 dollars incl. shipping, I also added a cheap little dash where I added a swtich for the headlight.

I bought a high ouput stator but never put it in since I don't need extra juice in SoCal for heated stuff.

The high output stator came from a high rated seller on ebay for 100...60 dollars incl. shipping if anyone
wants it. Probably Chinese but probably works fine.
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Old 03-25-2012, 03:39 PM   #1600
Thanantos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mile Maker View Post
The bike run better at proper operating temperature. Get out and ride on a cold day and you will see for yourself. if its 50 deg and sunny out i'm riding. In those temperatures the bike runs crappy with the stock setup.
I would challenge this statement. The last two weeks have seen me riding my KLR in temps from 40 to 85, and I did not notice any change in performance at all.

Unless you can provide some evidence of this like MPG studies, etc. I would say the above statement is more perception than reality.
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Old 03-25-2012, 04:05 PM   #1601
woodmnctry
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Location: Up------in the bumpy part ---in CO
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??

More current info on the HID headlight pleez -- source, price, etc
TKS
G
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Old 03-25-2012, 04:17 PM   #1602
mff
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Worlds Fastest KLR650 at the TEXAS MILE

did 115 & 121mph - great weekend of racing-
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Old 03-25-2012, 05:05 PM   #1603
nakedwaterskier
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hid was from a high rated ebay seller; forgot SN
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Old 03-25-2012, 05:35 PM   #1604
Mile Maker
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Location: Southern Alberta, only 150 km to a curvy road
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thanantos View Post
I would challenge this statement. The last two weeks have seen me riding my KLR in temps from 40 to 85, and I did not notice any change in performance at all.

Unless you can provide some evidence of this like MPG studies, etc. I would say the above statement is more perception than reality.

really? how a person provide any evidence on a observation? Maybe a audio recording, or a youtube video shot from a cell phone. give me a break. those mediums are terrible are conveying any kind of information.
All i can give you is my word, that my trained observation skills of being a journeyman mechanic of 14 years tells me that, on a cold day, my bike likes running at 195 deg, over the constant cycling from 110 ish to 160.
There is less stumbling upon acceleration. it doesn't stumble like it is a cold engine without the choke on. it runs like it is a warm summer day.

Is that evidence enough for you?
I'm just tired of listening to people saying that the thermostat upgrade is worthless voodoo, The thermo - bob does exactly as it is advertised. it allows the engine to warm up to 195 deg, and keeps it stable.

Do YOU need it? well that is for you to decide. I installed it. It works as advertised. I belive that my engine will continue to run better and last longer, than without. My opinion is based on my 14 years of pulling wrenches.
I have been around enough to see what proper maintenance and care can do for an engines longevity.

People also claim that the doohickey is a non issue. Evidence everywhere suggests otherwise. Are there stock engines out there still surviving without upgrades? Yes. Is it a weak spot? Yes. Is it cheaper to fix the weak tensioner and spring before it fails? yes
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Old 03-25-2012, 06:00 PM   #1605
Tsotsie
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: South Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon B. View Post
I've given quite a bit of thought to this device.

And, I've decided that it simply, for me, is a waste of money. Here's why I think so:

The stock thermostat isn't a sealed "valve". There's a significant gap that allows coolant to pass through even when it's "closed".

A thermostat is an analog device,not digital. It isn't "open", then "closed" (on/off or one/zero). It opens gradually, as the coolant temperature increases.

The idea that your KLR's engine experiences shock cooling is probably absurd. As it gradually warms, coolant 'leaks' past the thermostat, allowing a gradual warm-up. When the engine finally reaches its upper operating temp, the thermostat very gradually opens, allowing coolant to pass through the water jacket, slowly cooling the cylinder.

Is the T-Bob an improvement over the stock t-stat? Very likely. Is it a required piece of hardware? Probably not.

Want one? Hell's Bells; buy it. Please don't tell me that I'm a damned fool for not installing one, though!

Jon
Several observations;
1.Speculative opinions as to how an 'anlog' Tstat works are just that. Opinions without numbers. Did you take the trouble to review the actual test and graphs results of the before and after the installation of a TBob? If not - visit Wattman's site and read this- http://www.watt-man.com/uploads/TB_Testing.pdf. As for 'gradual' leaks, my expreince going back 40 years with Tstats is that they are less than 'gradual'. The graphs indicate the typical significant temperature spikes as the Tstat opens and closes.

2. If Tstats were/are such significant and sophisticated instruments to be able to 'gradually' open and 'slowly cool the cylinder' on their own, why do by far the majority of liquid cooled motors use the same added bypass system?


If 'absurd' is contrary to reason (your opinions of others reasons), intentional ignorance must be its corrolary. You dont like others (whomever they may be- when and where?) insinuating you are likely to be a fool, why not stop calling their ideas absurd then?

Wattmann took the time and trouble to test, to document and publish his actual test results and reasoning. How many aftermarket parts dealers do that? He did not play a keyboard opinion expert. Find fault with his actual tests, his results and his opinions and share them with us please?

The Tbobo not is 'required'. Its fitment is a choice and one that gives those interested in it actual insight into its workings and not some copy editors sales blurb.

Tsotsie screwed with this post 03-25-2012 at 06:07 PM
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