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Old 03-28-2012, 04:04 AM   #1636
XDragRacer
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Oil Filter Changing Tip

(Previously posted; now illustrated.)

Sometimes, the oil filter cover fits tightly, and remains hard to grasp when removing the cover to replace the oil filter:



For easy removal, BEFORE any oil is drained, LOOSEN oil filter cover bolts about 1-1/2 to 2 turns:



Start the engine, and IMMEDIATELY kill it.

Oil pressure will force the oil filter cover outward for easy grasp and removal after bolts are removed:



Fear no oil leak when the oil filter cover is pushed slightly outward; the O-ring seals adequately 'til the cover is withdrawn from its recess in the case cover.

Oh, yes--do NOT throw away the oil tube and relief valve with the old oil filter!

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Old 03-28-2012, 05:16 AM   #1637
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommu56 View Post
Rode to work 21ºF was comfortable got a flat hat to wait for truck and trailer about 45 minuets "NOT COMFORTABLE WITH OUT POWER" till truck got there.

Got home from work and took tire off using the stock tools.
I never noticed to put wrench, pipe, wench all together to get enough leverage to take axle nut loose.

I didn't have any spoons to get tire off rim back to the axle wrenches used them and the pipe to lever tire off.

I patched tube removed nail from tire patched that JIC.

I fought for an hour to get tube back in and valve stem lined up and tube back in.
There has to be a trick I am missing bicycle and truck tubes are not this hard!

Tire went on with me kneeling on one side and working hands around rim dropped right on (it made up for the fight with the tube)

I aired it up to put on tomorrow.
It is usefull to carry rear tire spoons and a patch kit. A stock tire can be fixed in 20-30 minutes on the side of the road. Add a valve threader to your kit. It is a piece of cable that has an end that screws into the schrader valve tube where the valve goes. However, riding radial Conti tubeless tires I have had to add a bead breaker to the tool kit- they have very stiff side walls and hug the rim. They take longer to remove. Then I have 2 , 1x2x6" pieces of wood that I use to hold the tire open from the rim while working with the tube.

I have not had many flats fortunately, but go prepared. On longer trips I carry spare tubes too.
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:15 AM   #1638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
...Oh, yes--do NOT throw away the oil tube and relief valve with the old oil filter!


Relief valve?...


.
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:55 AM   #1639
Mile Maker
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Mefo tires.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan Mahrer View Post
Hello, I know this has probably already been already covered somewhere but I'm looking for tire suggestions. I really liked the mefos I have on now riding trails but now over 3/4 of my riding is on the street and I need something that will not cup on the front. Any suggestions?

Tires are a wonderful topic. Everyone has a different opinion.

I have been running a Mefo rear for about 3000 km now. Love it. It still has lots of life in it. I think i will be able to get another 2000 to 3000 km out of it!
That is a huge difference from the stock dunlop. 2300 km and bald. or the 2 sets of IRC GP1 tires. i got between 4000 and 4500 km with them. You can feel the side lugs on the IRC flex when cornering hard, not a big problem, but its there.

The mefo needs to be run at high pressure on street. 36 psi recommended by twisted throttle, I always air down when riding on dirt. Even gravel roads are more fun aired down slightly.

I wouldn't hesitate about buying another Mefo tire. But i also want to try the Heidenau-K60 Scout and if i was on a long road trip, the Avon-Gripster.
None of them are really cheap, But it seems you get what you pay for.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:03 AM   #1640
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Heidenau-K60

I've been running these front and back for 4000 miles now. Front looks brand new and the rear is darn close to new. I run interstate to work 130 miles round trip 5 days a week and dirt on the off days. I've been supremely impressed with the versatility of this tire. Fantastic grip on the road even when wet, and respectable in the dirt. They don't do real well in mud, but in my experience nothing but nobbies do.

I blew through an Avon rear in no time, wasn't impressed for the money.

And that's my two cents.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:08 AM   #1641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WARRIORPRINCEJJ View Post
Relief valve?...


.
Yes, XdragR is correct. It is internal to the tube.

It is supposed to regulate the oil pressure to between 11-20psi.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:10 AM   #1642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsotsie View Post
Yes, XdragR is correct. It is internal to the tube.

It is supposed to regulate the oil pressure to between 11-20psi.
Well, there's my new thing I learned today.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:25 AM   #1643
WARRIORPRINCEJJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsotsie View Post
Yes, XdragR is correct. It is internal to the tube.

It is supposed to regulate the oil pressure to between 11-20psi.

So it's inside that little steel tube (that the filter slips onto)?...



If it is, I question whether or not mine still has one...

.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:42 AM   #1644
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http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...7947#sch579431
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:10 AM   #1645
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Thanks, Thanantos.


So, it's all one captive (pinned) unit. As long as one doesn't toss the whole assembly, there ain't much chance of losing the relief valve...cool.


.
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"There's a WEALTH of cool people and knowledge on ADV, there's also a decent sized pocket of douche bag assholes that think their ADV forum Post Count (Oddometer) is their badge at being experienced riders." goodcat8
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:13 AM   #1646
flyjosh
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Well jeez.....I've been doing all my own maintenance and oil changes for 6 or 7 years. I don't remember ever seeing that. I'll have to check that next change.

Is it fit into the tube, or will it slid out easily?
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:13 AM   #1647
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It seems to me that it would be very hard to lose any pieces in that filter assembly. Also, I think it will only go back together one way...so you'd really have to work at screwing it up. At least that's how it seems on my '11.

However, I have a puddle of oil sitting on top of the engine case near the filler, so what do I know? Anyone ever had any oil like that? Seems like a bad gasket or something, but I haven't had time to investigate.
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:21 AM   #1648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommu56 View Post
Do you pull both beads off put tube in align valve stem then work both beads back on ?

I usually only take one bead off and work through one side both beads were loose.
Tube was partially filled
My big hands couldn't get in to straighten stem in to the rim hole, not counting the rim tape moved a couple times covering the stem hole.
you need a valve stem fishing tool: Link

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Old 03-28-2012, 11:24 AM   #1649
XDragRacer
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Quote:
So, it's all one captive (pinned) unit. As long as one doesn't toss the whole assembly, there ain't much chance of losing the relief valve...cool.
True enough (be sure you check the filter cavity of your used KLR, insuring the previous owner hasn't discarded a worthwhile component).

In hope of clarification, should the oil filter clog, the integral bypass valve (or relief valve) opens, allowing unfiltered oil to flow through the galleries and passages of the engine, preventing oil starvation and its attendant damage.

In the event of a clogged filter, the arrangement bypasses the filter, insuring a continuous lubricant supply. As Tsotsie reports, the bypass valve opens when the differential oil pressure exceeds its threshold as a result of an obstructed filter.
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:26 AM   #1650
Tsotsie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bunghole View Post
It seems to me that it would be very hard to lose any pieces in that filter assembly. Also, I think it will only go back together one way...so you'd really have to work at screwing it up. At least that's how it seems on my '11.

However, I have a puddle of oil sitting on top of the engine case near the filler, so what do I know? Anyone ever had any oil like that? Seems like a bad gasket or something, but I haven't had time to investigate.

People have been known to throw the tube out with a filter. That is why many KLR sites sell them.

Puddle? Clean it and then see. Behind the clutch lever is a bolt and jumction are the tubes that take the oil to the head and then to the transmission. If that bolt is not tight it will leak - copper washers there. Check that 1st.

The oil pump pumps oil in 3 directions - through the crank to the main bearings as well as through that junction.
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