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Old 03-28-2012, 11:31 AM   #1651
WARRIORPRINCEJJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyjosh View Post
...Is it fit into the tube, or will it slid out easily?

Judging by the 'fiche pic, it looks like it uses a pin of some sort.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bunghole View Post
...However, I have a puddle of oil sitting on top of the engine case near the filler, so what do I know? Anyone ever had any oil like that? Seems like a bad gasket or something, but I haven't had time to investigate.

It has to do with porosity (perosity?) in the rear bolt hole of the oil filter cover. In post #1310, of this thread, I linked the information (from a Kawi Tech Bulletin) that I posted on "the other forum"...

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=1310


I have to go to work. So, if you are not a member, "over there", let me know, and I will re-type it in this thread (I probably shoulda' done that, anyway...as it should probably be in this thread, also.)



EDIT- I apologize. I read, "near the filter", not "near the filler".

If it's near the "filler", I don't know what to tell ya'. If it's near the "filter" (cover), you may want to give my information a read...


.
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"There's a WEALTH of cool people and knowledge on ADV, there's also a decent sized pocket of douche bag assholes that think their ADV forum Post Count (Oddometer) is their badge at being experienced riders." goodcat8

WARRIORPRINCEJJ screwed with this post 03-28-2012 at 11:37 AM
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:39 AM   #1652
sparkymcgee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WARRIORPRINCEJJ View Post
Judging by the 'fiche pic, it looks like it uses a pin of some sort.





It has to do with porosity (perosity?) in the rear bolt hole of the oil filter cover. In post #1310, of this thread, I linked the information (from a Kawi Tech Bulletin) that I posted on "the other forum"...

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=1310


I have to go to work. So, if you are not a member, "over there", let me know, and I will re-type it in this thread (I probably shoulda' done that, anyway...as it should probably be in this thread, also.)



EDIT- I apologize. I read, "near the filter", not "near the filler".

If it's near the "filler", I don't know what to tell ya'. If it's near the "filter" (cover), you may want to give my information a read...


.
Right on! Thanks for that. My warranty expires in a month, so I'm trying to get everything that can fail to fail and bring it in to the local dealer and make them deal with it. I'm watching my oil burn rate right now.
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:53 AM   #1653
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Sooooo, which one of you guys is this?:

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Old 03-28-2012, 12:15 PM   #1654
WARRIORPRINCEJJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
True enough (be sure you check the filter cavity of your used KLR, insuring the previous owner hasn't discarded a worthwhile component).

In hope of clarification, should the oil filter clog, the integral bypass valve (or relief valve) opens, allowing unfiltered oil to flow through the galleries and passages of the engine, preventing oil starvation and its attendant damage.

In the event of a clogged filter, the arrangement bypasses the filter, insuring a continuous lubricant supply. As Tsotsie reports, the bypass valve opens when the differential oil pressure exceeds its threshold as a result of an obstructed filter.

This ^^^ is why I love this thread.

I just learned that I don't have to worry about a collapsed/clogged oil filter.


Thanks, XDR...


.
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I spent all my money on motorcycles, 4X4's, whiskey, and women...The rest I just wasted. (edited to fit/original phrase by "WIBO")

"There's a WEALTH of cool people and knowledge on ADV, there's also a decent sized pocket of douche bag assholes that think their ADV forum Post Count (Oddometer) is their badge at being experienced riders." goodcat8
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Old 03-28-2012, 12:25 PM   #1655
jgormley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WARRIORPRINCEJJ View Post
Relief valve?...


.
If the relief valve is missing then you not filtering much oil...right/
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Old 03-28-2012, 01:27 PM   #1656
Aprilia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgormley View Post
If the relief valve is missing then you not filtering much oil...right/
Correct...path of least resistance.
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Old 03-28-2012, 01:34 PM   #1657
innathyzit
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Is the valve in the oil filter housing a normal oil pressure relief valve as in all (most) engines equipped with an oil pump, or is it a bypass valve for a possible clogged filter?

Is there another pressure relief valve in the engine somewhere?

FYI, a lot of auto engines do not have a bypass valve, rather the bypass valve is part of the filter itself, assuming the vehicle uses a screw on filter. Some cheap brand filters out there use poor quality filter paper and weak bypass valve springs making the filter bypass (not filter anymore) earlier than the manufacturers service interval. I have even seen a "budget" filter with nothing inside it at all, e.g. just an empty canister. Was cheap though.

Back to KLR's. Mine used to have a few oil leaks when the pcv valve mod was installed. Removed pcv valve and leaks stopped, presumably because the pressure inside the crankcas is now more even and not pulsing.
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Old 03-28-2012, 01:45 PM   #1658
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgormley View Post
If the relief valve is missing then you not filtering much oil...right/
Right; you're not filtering ANY oil whatsoever without a center pin oil tube and closed bypass valve; the lubricant simply flows freely through the center of the filter, while the porous paper folds simply loll about the filter cavity . . .. The bypass valve tube directs the oil through a sufficiently porous filter, or bypasses a clogged one.

Missing the oil tube and bypass valve is not necessarily an urgent calamity, if the oil is changed at reasonable intervals. Some Honda "three-wheelers" had no oil filters at all, depending upon owner maintenance for a clean-enough oil supply. And, like the on KLR650, an oil screen in the sump took care of the really big stuff.

Recommended, however: Oil filter with center pin oil tube and functioning bypass valve. Resist the impulse to discard the entire assembly, like a used automobile cannister-type oil filter!

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Old 03-28-2012, 03:00 PM   #1659
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by innathyzit View Post
Is there another pressure relief valve in the engine somewhere?
Yes, a relief valve is inside the right crankcase cover, set between 62-85 psi (Generation 1 Clymer, pp 139-140 (figure 11), p. 155).
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Old 03-28-2012, 08:37 PM   #1660
WARRIORPRINCEJJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bunghole View Post
Right on! Thanks for that. My warranty expires in a month, so I'm trying to get everything that can fail to fail and bring it in to the local dealer and make them deal with it. I'm watching my oil burn rate right now.

You're welcome. I'm glad I could help.

Like you, I have also been keeping a close eye on any oil usage.




I realize that (like anything on ADV) there may or may not be a lotta' interest in this, amongst the ADV "veterans". However, I also realize that there are always a lotta' new folks (and new-to-KLR folks, like myself) who might be searching for this information. When I went looking the answer, it kinda' filtered-in, in segments. So, I would like to share it here.

If you are experiencing a slow oil leak (or weep), in or around the area of the oil filter cover, this may help. Here is a piece of info that I posted on another forum...


Quote:
Originally Posted by WARRIORPRINCEJJ
The article is from K-tech News, and is in the "Tech Tips" section. It was written by Mike Norman, Product Quality Engineer, and reads...


"If you encounter a KLR 650 with a persistent slow oil leak near the oil filter cover, and replacing the cover O-ring doesn't stop it, the leak is likely from the rear cover bolt. Some engine side covers have a slight porosity in the bolt hole which allows oil to slowly seep through.

To stop the leak, clean the bolt and hole with contact cleaner, then either apply a small amount (of) case sealer deep into the hole or use a small amount of blue Loctite on the bolts threads."


Happy riding...


.
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I spent all my money on motorcycles, 4X4's, whiskey, and women...The rest I just wasted. (edited to fit/original phrase by "WIBO")

"There's a WEALTH of cool people and knowledge on ADV, there's also a decent sized pocket of douche bag assholes that think their ADV forum Post Count (Oddometer) is their badge at being experienced riders." goodcat8
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Old 03-28-2012, 08:52 PM   #1661
Gallowbraid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thanantos View Post
Sooooo, which one of you guys is this?:


That depends on how old that photo is. I went to a tech day at LtDan's in TN late last year and a fella was there doing a valve check on that very bike. He had just purchased it from a young guy that was giving it up. It has plastic pieces pop riveted to the body panels and then bed liner over that. Wasn't a bad looking bike but it was the bike that made me decide not to spray mine with bed liner.
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You like humvees and hate H2's
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:57 PM   #1662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandoCommando View Post
I replaced mine with 3000 miles on the bike.
It was broken, but did not cause any damage.
The spring was still intact.
I think when the spring breaks, it causes the most damage.
Even though my lever was broken, it was still in the same location.
Maybe I got lucky?
I thought it was better to spend about $100 for doohickey parts then have to do hundreds of dollars of engine work.
Mind you, the 2008 KLR bikes had an improved doohickey put in.
Mine is on a 1999 KLR.
Thanks for the info. I adjusted the Doohickey at 14500 and heard the spring take up the slack. At 15500 I checked it again and did not hear anything at the time of adjustment. I noticed what sounded like a faint rod knock at idle only. I became suspicious of the motor but didn't know what it was.

I ordered the Eagle Mike kit and installed it this week. After opening the cases I found the case end of the spring hook was broken and 3/4 gone. I located a small part of the spring hook in the oil pan. The hook looked like it went through the transmission. I found the rest of the hook in the pleads of oil filter. There were steel and aluminum shards in the filter. After installing the new Doohickey the rod knock sound went away. The engine still sounds good and I hope the bike will make the big ride this summer.

I had a 87 KLR and 20 years later Kawasaki still doesn't have it together.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:03 PM   #1663
RandoCommando
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LED Replacement Bulbs

Ok.
So I replaced my three white bulbs in the instrument cluster and the high beam bulb with WLED-WHP5.
I replaced my neutral light with 74-WHP.
I replaced my license plate light with 67-W9.
And I replaced my tail/brake light with 1157-W45-T.

According to superbrightleds.com, they draw the following:
WLED-WHP5: 60mA, which is equal to .06 watts. Multiply by four bulbs and you get 240mA or .24 watts.
74-WHP: 12mA, which is equal to .12 watts
67-W9: 30mA, which is equal to .03 watts
1157-W45-T: 35/235mA, which is equal to .35/.235 watts

Am I correct so far?
Now if all lights are active, I'm only drawing .317watts/.517watts

Am I really only drawing less than 1 watt of power?
Or is my math wrong somewhere?
Does anyone know what the incandescent bulbs draw?
I'm trying to figure out how much wattage I freed up.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:07 PM   #1664
RandoCommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdnman View Post
Thanks for the info. I adjusted the Doohickey at 14500 and heard the spring take up the slack. At 15500 I checked it again and did not hear anything at the time of adjustment. I noticed what sounded like a faint rod knock at idle only. I became suspicious of the motor but didn't know what it was.

I ordered the Eagle Mike kit and installed it this week. After opening the cases I found the case end of the spring hook was broken and 3/4 gone. I located a small part of the spring hook in the oil pan. The hook looked like it went through the transmission. I found the rest of the hook in the pleads of oil filter. There were steel and aluminum shards in the filter. After installing the new Doohickey the rod knock sound went away. The engine still sounds good and I hope the bike will make the big ride this summer.

I had a 87 KLR and 20 years later Kawasaki still doesn't have it together.
Great news that you didn't suffer any major damage.
I've heard stories about the spring bouncing around inside and wiping out lots of stuff.
I suppose you got lucky. Thankfully.
Now you have some piece of mind knowing that you won't have to disassemble the engine at major cost.
Hopefully there isn't any other metal floating around in there.
If there is, hopefully the oil filter will catch it.
You might also consider getting a magnetic drain plug.
I ordered one from Eagle Mike.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:19 PM   #1665
rdnman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandoCommando View Post
Great news that you didn't suffer any major damage.
I've heard stories about the spring bouncing around inside and wiping out lots of stuff.
I suppose you got lucky. Thankfully.
Now you have some piece of mind knowing that you won't have to disassemble the engine at major cost.
Hopefully there isn't any other metal floating around in there.
If there is, hopefully the oil filter will catch it.
You might also consider getting a magnetic drain plug.
I ordered one from Eagle Mike.
Already done. It also had some small particles on it. I was surprised the magnet didn't get the big stuff. I did run a magnet down in the sump but didn't get any more. If someone asks me I will recommend the upgrade no matter what others say.
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