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Old 04-03-2012, 03:07 AM   #1741
RandoCommando
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Philthadelphia, Pennsylvania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BERZERKOWITZ View Post
Gentlemen, get rid of those sucky KLR fuses or this could be you!
LOL
Great picture. Sorry for your issue.
Kawasaki doesn't make the fuses though.
I've blown a couple, but that's because I tried using too much stuff.
The fuses saved my harness.
I've simply replaced the fuses.
What exactly caused your issue?
Are your fuses constantly blowing?
If so, maybe you have a short and need to start checking the harness for it.
Or did you fry the harness?
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1999 KLR 650 (her name is KLaRissa) DOOHICKEY DONE!
2013 BMW F800GS (her name is FranGelicaS)
Please. Ride careful, ride safe, ride defensively! This thread should be mandatory reading!
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Old 04-03-2012, 03:09 AM   #1742
RandoCommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHMatt View Post
I started a blog about my first time at re-building my 08's engine. http://myklr.wordpress.com/ It will be all about how I am doing it and what kind of problems I run into along the way. If you want, check it out. If not, then don't. Thank's.
A 500 pound rack???
LOL
Might want to edit that.
And change balk to back?
Oh. And the dates on your pictures are older than your bike. Heh heh
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1999 KLR 650 (her name is KLaRissa) DOOHICKEY DONE!
2013 BMW F800GS (her name is FranGelicaS)
Please. Ride careful, ride safe, ride defensively! This thread should be mandatory reading!
MySPOT

RandoCommando screwed with this post 04-03-2012 at 03:14 AM
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Old 04-03-2012, 08:15 AM   #1743
BERZERKOWITZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandoCommando View Post
LOL
Great picture. Sorry for your issue.
Kawasaki doesn't make the fuses though.
I've blown a couple, but that's because I tried using too much stuff.
The fuses saved my harness.
I've simply replaced the fuses.
What exactly caused your issue?
Are your fuses constantly blowing?
If so, maybe you have a short and need to start checking the harness for it.
Or did you fry the harness?
For the first time since I bought the bike, I decided to open the fuse box. Immediately after witnessing that abortion I ordered a blade fuse upgrade kit. You know how it goes. When you change the oil on a car with 200k miles that was probably never changed, yer fooked. The last ride I took was in the rain, I'm guessing water got in someplace. The new kit is in and everything works again, so we'll see.
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Old 04-03-2012, 09:36 AM   #1744
nakedwaterskier
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Everybody upgrades the headlight fuse to blade AND to 15 amps from 10.

There are also automatically resetting circuit breakers avail at auto parts stores.

Then, you don't have to ever touch the fuses...though you would have to figure out what is
causing it--with luck after you make it home.
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Old 04-03-2012, 12:54 PM   #1745
NHMatt
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Location: Newport News VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandoCommando View Post
A 500 pound rack???
LOL
Might want to edit that.
And change balk to back?
Oh. And the dates on your pictures are older than your bike. Heh heh
That was my lame attempt at sarcasm. Yea I never set the damn date on my camera. I think that's a sign of getting old. Like the old clock on the VCR thing in the 80's.


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Old 04-03-2012, 07:26 PM   #1746
Mile Maker
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Southern Alberta, only 150 km to a curvy road
Oddometer: 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by lgottler View Post
New KLR owner. First bike with water cooling.

Anyways, took it for a 30 minute ride tonight temps in 50's and temp gauge reads about 1/4 above C. Got home and let it idle for about 2 minutes while I walked it into the garage and temps rose to the middle of the dial and the fan kicked on. I left it idling to see if it would over heat, but it just stayed in the middle and the fan kicked on twice more. It also kicked on after the bike was turned off.

Is it normal to jump so fast to hot from normal riding temps? Coolant levels were good.

Also, few more ?'s.

1) If I can start it in gear with clutch pulled in with the kick stand down or up, has the safety switch mod been done? Or does it have something to do with the clutch lever being let out?

2) Adjusting the foot brake until it is only about 1/16" away from hitting the engine and the pedal is still not in line with the foot pegs....could I have aftermarket foot pegs? Mine are dark grey wide with steel serrations, no rubber. Very annoying position of pedal, any ideas how I can get it adjusted up better besides trying to bend it out away from the engine cover?

3) Gear shifter, I'm going to weld an extension on it about 1" longer. Any issues with that?

Thanks!

Lucas

KLRs use a sucky cooling system. They came from factory with a relatively cool thermostat. 160 deg. The fan doesn't kick on till way hotter, I don't remember the temp off the top of my head, but i'm guessing around 210?


Sounds like you have aftermarket foot pegs. There are a few of companies that make longer shifters. The IMS one looks like a quality made piece, but if you want to extend the stock one, i don't see why it wouldn't work.
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Old 04-04-2012, 07:31 AM   #1747
Chicken Helmet
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Jacksonville Fl
Oddometer: 4,738
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mile Maker View Post
KLRs use a sucky cooling system. They came from factory with a relatively cool thermostat. 160 deg. The fan doesn't kick on till way hotter, I don't remember the temp off the top of my head, but i'm guessing around 210?


Sounds like you have aftermarket foot pegs. There are a few of companies that make longer shifters. The IMS one looks like a quality made piece, but if you want to extend the stock one, i don't see why it wouldn't work.
My bike seems to run hot. 70-75 on the interstate and its at the half way, slightly higher. Stop for a few minutes in traffic and climbes to just off red. Take off and it goes back to where it was before. New fan last summer when the original died. I'm wondering if the original radiator isn't somewhat clogged being as old as it is.

I know myself and one other person who had an issue with getting the bolt tight enough on the IMS shifter. Even with loctite mine would eventually "wobble" on the shift mechanism. Don't know if the bolt stretched or what but I got a longer bolt and put a nut on it to tighten it up and so far after 150 miles all is well.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterWheel View Post
From what I've heard, riding a DR feels just like riding a KLR except you're head doesn't sway left and right constantly scanning the ditches for aluminum cans.
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:08 AM   #1748
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chicken Helmet View Post
My bike seems to run hot. 70-75 on the interstate and its at the half way, slightly higher. Stop for a few minutes in traffic and climbes to just off red. Take off and it goes back to where it was before. New fan last summer when the original died. I'm wondering if the original radiator isn't somewhat clogged being as old as it is.
YMMV, CH, but . . . as long as the coolant temperature remains within safe limits, What? ME worrry?

Radiator flush wouldn't hurt, but--as long as your fan is cycling and you stay out of the red . . . no problemo, AFAIK.
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:27 AM   #1749
Chicken Helmet
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Jacksonville Fl
Oddometer: 4,738
Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
YMMV, CH, but . . . as long as the coolant temperature remains within safe limits, What? ME worrry?

Radiator flush wouldn't hurt, but--as long as your fan is cycling and you stay out of the red . . . no problemo, AFAIK.
Kind of the approach I have been taking but I "seem" to remember it reading lower when I first got it a couple years ago. I checked the w/p impeller, replaced the radiator cap and topped it off along with purging the system. I think i'll pull the radiator, have it flushed and replace the hoses that look like they are fresh from 1988.
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1988 KLR 650 Bare frame,swing arm & title For Sale PM for Details 2009 KLR 650 1994 DR 350
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterWheel View Post
From what I've heard, riding a DR feels just like riding a KLR except you're head doesn't sway left and right constantly scanning the ditches for aluminum cans.
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Old 04-04-2012, 09:39 AM   #1750
nakedwaterskier
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The IMS shifter is softer metal than the stock shift lever. You have to take it off a few times a year and sand between the contact points.

You are better off welding a washer on the stock shift lever(to keep it from breaking the stator side case cover in case
of a wipeout on that side)
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Old 04-04-2012, 09:41 AM   #1751
nakedwaterskier
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The impeller shaft corrodes after 30K miles even with good strong coolant. It cleans up pretty easily. But, you have to pull the side case to do the water pump seals.

Follow Marknet's instructions carefully.
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Old 04-04-2012, 12:11 PM   #1752
n9udl
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Location: SW Wisconsin
Oddometer: 398
Mini KLR Tech Day in SW Wisconsin

Mini KLR Tech Day in SW Wisconsin
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=911

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Old 04-04-2012, 01:01 PM   #1753
SeanPNW
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Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Somewhere in Latin America
Oddometer: 385
KLR Tank

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 lunger View Post
What color is the tank and how much do you want? Thanks


---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?m2jy03
Life is good!

I've got a fair amount of parts off my '04 KLR that I'm looking to sell. A tank being one of them. Tank is pristine, no rust, no scratches, etc. I used the petcock though for my IMS tank.

If you are interested let me know.
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Old 04-04-2012, 07:01 PM   #1754
FixerDave
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Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Oddometer: 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chicken Helmet View Post
My bike seems to run hot. 70-75 on the interstate and its at the half way, slightly higher. Stop for a few minutes in traffic and climbes to just off red. Take off and it goes back to where it was before. New fan last summer when the original died. I'm wondering if the original radiator isn't somewhat clogged being as old as it is....
I won't take credit for this diagnostic advice... it was a response by broncobowsher to my queries here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=767986

The key is that the thermostat is at the top and the fan sensor is at the bottom. Thus, if it says hot but the fan is not on, then you have coolant flow problems - the water coming out of the rad is cool but there's not enough of it because it's not flowing fast enough. That means plugged passages, impeller, thermostat, etc.. If it says hot and the fan is on, then hot water is flowing quickly through the radiator but you are generating too much heat or the rad is not cooling enough. That means fuel mixture etc., or, OR... as in my case (so far, I'll know for sure this weekend when I get my first ride in) the radiator is losing efficiency. My radiator looked near perfect but, again according to broncobowsher, the solder holding the fins on can degrade with age and lose proper contact with the radiator tubes. I replaced my radiator with a Chinese aluminium unit and the bike idled for near 15 minutes before getting hot enough to turn the fan on. It's looking good... can't wait to confirm.

Hope this helps,

David...

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Old 04-04-2012, 07:53 PM   #1755
HellSickle
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Joined: Sep 2005
Location: Fort Collins
Oddometer: 8,514
Quote:
Originally Posted by two trackin fool View Post
I'm sure this has been asked but ,

After a chain adjment and with a pileon (daughter) I notice the chain seemed a bit tight with us both sitting on the bike.
If I loosen it just alittle it seems to loose.

What do you guy's use to regulate the chain with the bike on the side stand - how do YOU check it?

My dirt bike mentality is way to loose .
Check your owners manual.

When the suspension is compressed, and the axle, swingarm pivot, and countershaft all align, your chain slack can be zero. The owners manual will give the allowable slop completely unloaded, or on the stand.
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