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Old 06-01-2012, 04:04 PM   #2491
685
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Multiple answers to stuff:

K&N. I wouldn't be running a 'sock' type K&N (or any other brand) on a KLR. I used to ride SR500's and there was a guy in Portland OR who raced 'em. Said that that the stock airbox was an important component in providing clean, non turbulent air to the carb. Take off the airbox and the air behind the engine is very turbulent (and probably hotter, too.) K&N's don't have the best rep among KLR riders anyhow. Something about being easily clogged and not providing the best filtration, letting small particulates through. I run a UNI on mine, and I have the suspicion that while the UNI DOES come with cool stickers and it DOES look awfully cool, it DOESN'T really filter much better than the stock MAMA KAW filter which really is probably as good as anything you can get

The guy with the tank problem--take all the smog stuff off, grind off the bracket as needed. You live in a state where it wasn't required for the OEM to sell the bike, and a tech inspection won't ever come up. Eagle Mike sells a nice little machined block off plate. To use the new tank, you're gonna get rid of the charcoal cannister system, aren't you? No fittings on the new tank for that, I'd guess.

"Will a gen2 stock muffler bolt on to a gen1 klr or will modifications be needed?" It will fit, no mods needed. The gen2 stock exhaust header is much nicer, too. Stainless, seamless. Just looks a lot better.
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685 screwed with this post 06-01-2012 at 04:12 PM
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:39 PM   #2492
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who knows?

Anybody know if a KLX (R) inverted fork will fit a KLR. Also, can the rear rim be swapped?
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Old 06-02-2012, 05:49 AM   #2493
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[QUOTE=685;18817135]Multiple answers to stuff:

K&N. I wouldn't be running a 'sock' type K&N (or any other brand) on a KLR. I used to ride SR500's and there was a guy in Portland OR who raced 'em. Said that that the stock airbox was an important component in providing clean, non turbulent air to the carb. Take off the airbox and the air behind the engine is very turbulent (and probably hotter, too.) K&N's don't have the best rep among KLR riders anyhow. Something about being easily clogged and not providing the best filtration, letting small particulates through. I run a UNI on mine, and I have the suspicion that while the UNI DOES come with cool stickers and it DOES look awfully cool, it DOESN'T really filter much better than the stock MAMA KAW filter which really is probably as good as anything you can get

Yes, The state of the art in motorcycle engine design has evolved way beyond that '66 BSA Hornet I once had. And my brain agrees that the airbox is an integral part of the intake tuning of a modern motorcycle engine. But my heart feels that the look of a bike without the airbox is cool. One of the reasons I ride a KLR650 is that it's a "back to basics" low tech design. Too hard to get a Goldstar these days so the KLR will have to do.
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Old 06-02-2012, 09:20 AM   #2494
Rainmaster
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Horn Troubleshoot question

Question for the collective. Driving back home from a short ride horn slowly starts making a gargle sound and in less than a mile is on full blast. Stopped and disconnected a lead wire to the horn to quiet it. What could be wrong? Bad multi function switch or a ground problem? Where do I start to trouble shoot? Thanks!
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Old 06-02-2012, 01:34 PM   #2495
derm75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdon View Post
I have the new Safari Tank.
Install was not easy but I got it on.
Be sure and get all the wires from the radiator fan and along the frame out of the way. Mine lined up good but did not go all the way on the rubber pucks. The rear lined up easy but I had to use force to get both sides of the front brace lined up.
After mounting it seems crazy strong and stable.
I have already crash tested it both sides with good results. Once on a log in deep grass in my pasture and once on a slick water crossing on the Tennessee TAT this weekend.
Put 2100 miles on the new tank in six days. It was really nice not to even think about gas for at least 350 miles. Mine took 10.1 gallons to fill the first time.

Bigdon likey!
Another question for you Bigdon regarding the front brace. Did you attach it to the bike at the lower radiator mount? Directions say nothing about this, but it looks like it's made with a hole in the right spot. The brace is a little too small to fit around the frame tube, afraid I'm going to have to grind the brace a little. I'm taking a quick break while I let the paint dry where I ground off the AIS bracket.

Safari brace

2klr radiator
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derm75 screwed with this post 06-02-2012 at 01:55 PM
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Old 06-02-2012, 01:44 PM   #2496
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I did not connect my brace to the frame. I did have quite a bit of trouble getting the holes in the end of the brace lined up with the holes in the tank!
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Old 06-02-2012, 02:25 PM   #2497
685
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[QUOTE=twinjet;18820199]
Quote:
Originally Posted by 685 View Post
Multiple answers to stuff:

K&N. I wouldn't be running a 'sock' type K&N (or any other brand) on a KLR. I used to ride SR500's and there was a guy in Portland OR who raced 'em. Said that that the stock airbox was an important component in providing clean, non turbulent air to the carb. Take off the airbox and the air behind the engine is very turbulent (and probably hotter, too.) K&N's don't have the best rep among KLR riders anyhow. Something about being easily clogged and not providing the best filtration, letting small particulates through. I run a UNI on mine, and I have the suspicion that while the UNI DOES come with cool stickers and it DOES look awfully cool, it DOESN'T really filter much better than the stock MAMA KAW filter which really is probably as good as anything you can get

Yes, The state of the art in motorcycle engine design has evolved way beyond that '66 BSA Hornet I once had. And my brain agrees that the airbox is an integral part of the intake tuning of a modern motorcycle engine. But my heart feels that the look of a bike without the airbox is cool. One of the reasons I ride a KLR650 is that it's a "back to basics" low tech design. Too hard to get a Goldstar these days so the KLR will have to do.
Yeah, you're right, I always let my heart make my engineering decisions, too. You helped me decide, I'm gonna go out and drain the coolant out of my car (it's got a coolant leak anyhow. . .) 'cus I miss my old 62 VW Bug--it was aircooled and a lot simpler!!!

Don't get mad, I'm just kiddin'. The thing about your old Goldie was that it was probably not a CV carbed bike--so variations in intake side pressure on the carb wouldn't cause a flutter. BTW, calling a KLR a modern bike is purely speaking comparatively. People that were born the year the airbox on your 04 was designed are probably out of college by now and may have a passel of kids. KLR is modern compared to your old Goldie or my first bike, a Suzuki X6. (I think my brother has a goldie in his garage.) And several Notruns.
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Old 06-02-2012, 02:33 PM   #2498
derm75
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Any pics of the fit down there? I don't think I can get mine on unless I use that hole, but i think I have to grind the bracket a little.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdon View Post
I did not connect my brace to the frame. I did have quite a bit of trouble getting the holes in the end of the brace lined up with the holes in the tank!
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Old 06-03-2012, 02:27 AM   #2499
Sourjon
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Is there any consensus on aftermarket shock for the KLR? I'm in research mode and want to get this done before summer is over. I see the Cogent Moab which seems highly recommended and well supported although I know of one that failed on a big trip. Progressive offers one but what worries me is they never ask about rider weight and load when ordering. Can't be a one size fits all spring can it?

edit to add I just looked at Ricor. They ask for rider+gear weight at checkout.

What to do...what to do...

Whatcha using and are you happy with the purchase?

John
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Sourjon screwed with this post 06-03-2012 at 03:13 AM
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Old 06-03-2012, 04:07 AM   #2500
NHMatt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sourjon View Post
Is there any consensus on aftermarket shock for the KLR? I'm in research mode and want to get this done before summer is over. I see the Cogent Moab which seems highly recommended and well supported although I know of one that failed on a big trip. Progressive offers one but what worries me is they never ask about rider weight and load when ordering. Can't be a one size fits all spring can it?

edit to add I just looked at Ricor. They ask for rider+gear weight at checkout.

What to do...what to do...

Whatcha using and are you happy with the purchase?

John
And let the debate begin.



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Old 06-03-2012, 04:11 AM   #2501
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Or you can splurge on remote pre-load. Looks sweeeet.
KLR650 465 Series with RAP from Progressive Suspension - KLR650 & Adventure Touring Motorcycle Luggage and Aluminum Panniers
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Old 06-03-2012, 05:22 AM   #2502
twinjet
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[QUOTE=685;18822782]
Quote:
Originally Posted by twinjet View Post

Yeah, you're right, I always let my heart make my engineering decisions, too. You helped me decide, I'm gonna go out and drain the coolant out of my car (it's got a coolant leak anyhow. . .) 'cus I miss my old 62 VW Bug--it was aircooled and a lot simpler!!!

Don't get mad, I'm just kiddin'. The thing about your old Goldie was that it was probably not a CV carbed bike--so variations in intake side pressure on the carb wouldn't cause a flutter. BTW, calling a KLR a modern bike is purely speaking comparatively. People that were born the year the airbox on your 04 was designed are probably out of college by now and may have a passel of kids. KLR is modern compared to your old Goldie or my first bike, a Suzuki X6. (I think my brother has a goldie in his garage.) And several Notruns.
Funny how a car will run a lot longer without oil than without water. (Don't ask how I know this)
Is you brother's goldie a runner? Big time nostalgia hit there. But, nostalgia aside, I don't miss kick starting big singles. Had a XT-500 and several old Sportsters (kick starting a Sportster qualifies as kick starting two big singles at the same time).

I forgot that the KLR has a CV carb. Maybe a Keihin FCR should go along with losing the airbox. Has anyone done a Mikuni or FCR conversion?
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Old 06-03-2012, 01:16 PM   #2503
Bigger Al
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[QUOTE=twinjet;18826066]
Quote:
Originally Posted by 685 View Post
Funny how a car will run a lot longer without oil than without water. (Don't ask how I know this)
Is you brother's goldie a runner? Big time nostalgia hit there. But, nostalgia aside, I don't miss kick starting big singles. Had a XT-500 and several old Sportsters (kick starting a Sportster qualifies as kick starting two big singles at the same time).

I forgot that the KLR has a CV carb. Maybe a Keihin FCR should go along with losing the airbox. Has anyone done a Mikuni or FCR conversion?
I believe that there is an issue with the bottom of an FCR carb interfering with the head pipe on the KLR. This is just my dusty memory at work, so you might want to do some digging before you spend any money.
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Old 06-03-2012, 02:09 PM   #2504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainmaster View Post
Question for the collective. Driving back home from a short ride horn slowly starts making a gargle sound and in less than a mile is on full blast. Stopped and disconnected a lead wire to the horn to quiet it. What could be wrong? Bad multi function switch or a ground problem? Where do I start to trouble shoot? Thanks!
A horn wire is shorting ( could be the insulation has worn thiugh) to ground somewhere. As the horn is under the right front of the tank- remove the tank and start there.
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Old 06-03-2012, 02:20 PM   #2505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsotsie View Post
A horn wire is shorting ( could be the insulation has worn thiugh) to ground somewhere. As the horn is under the right front of the tank- remove the tank and start there.
+ 1.

The horn picks up a ground through the BLACK wire when activated; could be a short anywhere along the length of this connector. Defective horn button possible, but not likely, IMHO.

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