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Old 06-21-2012, 10:30 PM   #2761
Argentian
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Joined: May 2012
Location: Nelson BC, Canada
Oddometer: 63
Bike's back from the shop today
Kawi gave me the new signal lights, wiring harness and muffler bolt that were on recall so if you've got an '08 don't forget about that - it's worth it. So while it was in I had the doo done and the deep hole fixed, valves checked (they were fine at 17,000 km), new tires and a few other details. Ready for some road time!
Question: my old '03 got hot at slow speeds and so does the '08 - not technically overheating but fairly hot in a short time at stop lights etc on a warm day. So why does that happen and will the thermo-bob change this?
Thanks
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Old 06-22-2012, 01:27 AM   #2762
DeusExMachina
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New KLR650 owner here...I just picked up a farkled-with '06 with needs some work. Basically, it needs some attention paid to it (cleaning, fluids), a good carb cleaning (starts right up but dies as soon as you touch the throttle) and a speedo cable. It also needs to be made less ugly.

I'll be going over the mechanicals with my new Clymer and should have it in tip-top soon enough, at which point I will start riding it. After that, it needs a modicum of attention paid to the exterior. Right now the only plastics it has is the front fender. It has an IMS 6.6 gal tank (in "natural" color). The front fairing/headlight assembly is gone and replaced with something from a dirt bike, just a flat piece of plastic and a very poor headlight. There's some random rear fender on it as well.

I'm looking for suggestions. Is there something from another bike that would work well? Should I just wire up some Hellas and have a go at it? Or dig up a new used headlight and fairing? I don't want to spend as much on a fairing as I did on the bike (Brittannia) so value is key.

Here's a pic:
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:55 AM   #2763
Old Kiwi#99
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Middle Earth, New Zealand
Oddometer: 273
Quote:
Originally Posted by Argentian View Post
Bike's back from the shop today
Kawi gave me the new signal lights, wiring harness and muffler bolt that were on recall so if you've got an '08 don't forget about that - it's worth it. So while it was in I had the doo done and the deep hole fixed, valves checked (they were fine at 17,000 km), new tires and a few other details. Ready for some road time!
Question: my old '03 got hot at slow speeds and so does the '08 - not technically overheating but fairly hot in a short time at stop lights etc on a warm day. So why does that happen and will the thermo-bob change this?
Thanks
The t/bob (my KLR has one) will cause the engine temp to rise to a normal operating point quicker, and will do a far better job (than the stock setup) of keeping the temperature stable. It cannot cure a temperature rise caused by lack of air flow through the radiator, thats why the bike has a fan. As long as the temp gauge is not in the upper red zone it's not overheating.

BTW, T/bob threads, like oil threads, tend to provoke serious shit fights for some reason
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Old 06-22-2012, 07:34 AM   #2764
685
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Joined: May 2009
Location: Tucson (east side) AZ
Oddometer: 998
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Kiwi#99 View Post
The t/bob (my KLR has one) will cause the engine temp to rise to a normal operating point quicker, and will do a far better job (than the stock setup) of keeping the temperature stable. It cannot cure a temperature rise caused by lack of air flow through the radiator, thats why the bike has a fan. As long as the temp gauge is not in the upper red zone it's not overheating.

BTW, T/bob threads, like oil threads, tend to provoke serious shit fights for some reason
No shit fight, the T-bob is a thermostat bypass to eliminate large temp swings when the engine coolant is cold. The earlier poster should read the T-bob web page to get a better picture.

The T-bob will do nothing about running hot in traffic or out on the trail (where you tend to run slow speeds but higher RPM's.) As long as the coolant is in good shape and the cooling system is full no problem. The cooling system is built to be able to cope with these situations.

However, it's another good reason to keep the oil fresh and frequently changed. Motorcycles like KLR's tend to shear the oil molecules in the gearbox--and that reduces viscosity. Oil changes at or before 2000 mile intervals assures that the viscosity of the oil is still sufficient to take the higher heat of stop & go traffic or severe duty out on the trail. No need to change the filter everytime, but oil is what keeps the engine alive and better safe from being too diligent than have the oil breakdown and damage cam journals and bearings.
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Old 06-22-2012, 07:43 AM   #2765
685
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Location: Tucson (east side) AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeusExMachina View Post
New KLR650 owner here...I just picked up a farkled-with '06 with needs some work. Basically, it needs some attention paid to it (cleaning, fluids), a good carb cleaning (starts right up but dies as soon as you touch the throttle) and a speedo cable. It also needs to be made less ugly.

I'll be going over the mechanicals with my new Clymer and should have it in tip-top soon enough, at which point I will start riding it. After that, it needs a modicum of attention paid to the exterior. Right now the only plastics it has is the front fender. It has an IMS 6.6 gal tank (in "natural" color). The front fairing/headlight assembly is gone and replaced with something from a dirt bike, just a flat piece of plastic and a very poor headlight. There's some random rear fender on it as well.

I'm looking for suggestions. Is there something from another bike that would work well? Should I just wire up some Hellas and have a go at it? Or dig up a new used headlight and fairing? I don't want to spend as much on a fairing as I did on the bike (Brittannia) so value is key.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acerbis-Led-...d65cd2&vxp=mtr The headlights on aftermarket fairings tend to be a bit crappy, so probably some sort of bulb upgrade would be needed (like HID?)
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Old 06-22-2012, 09:35 AM   #2766
DeusExMachina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 685 View Post
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acerbis-Led-...d65cd2&vxp=mtr The headlights on aftermarket fairings tend to be a bit crappy, so probably some sort of bulb upgrade would be needed (like HID?)
Pretty good looking suggestion but light output is definitely a concern.
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:28 AM   #2767
Half-a-Jeep
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: L'ville
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeusExMachina View Post
New KLR650 owner here..
...
... The front fairing/headlight assembly is gone and replaced with something from a dirt bike, just a flat piece of plastic and a very poor headlight. There's some random rear fender on it as well.

I'm looking for suggestions. Is there something from another bike that would work well? Should I just wire up some Hellas and have a go at it? Or dig up a new used headlight and fairing? I don't want to spend as much on a fairing as I did on the bike (Brittannia) so value is key.

Here's a pic:
You can always try to piece together a Gen 1 stock headlight and fairing using parts on eBay or the flea market. Similarly, if you want a small fairing instead of the large stock one, you could adapt parts from a KLR250 to work. This thread has a lot of pictures and info: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=571971 and there's some more info in post #2553 back on page 171. It's really easy to do, the parts are fairly cheap, and you end up with an OEM headlight and turn signals.
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:33 AM   #2768
DirtyDog
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Tulsa... it's OK
Oddometer: 7,480
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeusExMachina View Post
Pretty good looking suggestion but light output is definitely a concern.
Trailtech X2 Halogen http://trailtech.net/x2_kits.html
Decent light. Easy to replace or upgrade the bulbs at O'Reilly Auto. Buy the rock guard if you plan to use it offroad (or where the bugs are large and heavy).

Shop around. I think I found mine for about $75
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Old 06-23-2012, 02:08 AM   #2769
okieinoz
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Location: Mona Vale, NSW, Australia
Oddometer: 49
What coolent is best for my 2008 klr 650?

Hi All Replacing water pump seals and noticed a white/greenish coating on the inside of pump in places...a small knife what scrap it off fair but not easy...I tried boiling it off...worked ok but heaps still on it...no cleaner worked yet. Not sure what coolent was in the bike when I bought it a few months ago but I have added after a few jobs on the bike...it was a concentrat.... Ethylene glycol for aluminum engines(for cars)...and I didn't dilute it. So should I be using a MC coolent or is any auto coolent for alumimun engine with anti-corrsion inhibitors ok?
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Old 06-23-2012, 05:12 AM   #2770
Tsotsie
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: South Texas
Oddometer: 1,628
Quote:
Originally Posted by okieinoz View Post
Hi All Replacing water pump seals and noticed a white/greenish coating on the inside of pump in places...a small knife what scrap it off fair but not easy...I tried boiling it off...worked ok but heaps still on it...no cleaner worked yet. Not sure what coolent was in the bike when I bought it a few months ago but I have added after a few jobs on the bike...it was a concentrat.... Ethylene glycol for aluminum engines(for cars)...and I didn't dilute it. So should I be using a MC coolent or is any auto coolent for alumimun engine with anti-corrsion inhibitors ok?
Who knows what the crud is?

Regular, non silicate auto type Anti F is good. Must dilute it (50/50) - use distilled water! If not life rated for 5 years, change the coolant every 2 years. The anti-corrosion properties get used up.

It would be good to make sure the raidator is also clean on the inside. A chance the capillary tubes could be blocked too. Flush with cleaner! Also take the puke bottle off and properly clean it out too. Good time to also check the cap. Both the exit and return seals there.
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Old 06-23-2012, 07:00 AM   #2771
SkiBumBrian
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Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Redding, CA
Oddometer: 1,042
Quote:
Originally Posted by okieinoz View Post
Hi All Replacing water pump seals and noticed a white/greenish coating on the inside of pump in places...a small knife what scrap it off fair but not easy...I tried boiling it off...worked ok but heaps still on it...no cleaner worked yet. Not sure what coolent was in the bike when I bought it a few months ago but I have added after a few jobs on the bike...it was a concentrat.... Ethylene glycol for aluminum engines(for cars)...and I didn't dilute it. So should I be using a MC coolent or is any auto coolent for alumimun engine with anti-corrsion inhibitors ok?
Actually, the best "coolant" is distilled water. During the summer that is all I run, with some anti-rust/conditioner in it. Oops! Quoted wrong post..... You get the picture....
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Old 06-23-2012, 07:03 AM   #2772
Danger4u2
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Location: OKC
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I drain and fill with distilled water, run the engine to operating temp. and drain. I fill with a 50/50 white distilled vinegar and distilled water,
ride the bike for 15/20 minutes.
Drain and refill with straight distilled water, run the engine to operating temp. and drain. Then fill with 50/50 antifreeze and distilled water.
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Old 06-23-2012, 07:56 AM   #2773
Sourjon
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Oddometer: 2,051
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danger4u2 View Post
I drain and fill with distilled water, run the engine to operating temp. and drain. I fill with a 50/50 white distilled vinegar and distilled water,
ride the bike for 15/20 minutes.
Drain and refill with straight distilled water, run the engine to operating temp. and drain. Then fill with 50/50 antifreeze and distilled water.
Wow. I want to buy a used bike from you.

John
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Old 06-23-2012, 08:36 AM   #2774
VikB
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Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Oddometer: 459


Anyone have a big Safari tank mounted on a 2008+ KLR yet?...
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Vik...
www.klr650blog.com
I didn't done the doo!
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Old 06-23-2012, 08:51 AM   #2775
Velour Fog
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Location: Port Hedland - Western Australia
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Not me, don't have a spare 650 clams at the moment.
Though it is nearly tax time
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