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Old 07-05-2012, 04:28 PM   #3016
studad
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Willow Springs, MO
Oddometer: 830
Too funny... I traded my second BMW for my second KLR. Love them.

I always wait patiently for used parts to come up. Save about half, maybe. This one came ready for anything, though.

I've got aftermarket seats, if you are interested. One Corbin, one Sargent. I don't know which I want to keep. Pm if you would like to start with the seat!
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Old 07-05-2012, 04:32 PM   #3017
XDragRacer
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Joined: Mar 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSMotorrad View Post
I've been going over the farkling options as well. From my limited (internet) research, the HT stuff looks sort of janky to me.
Well, if you saw it on the Internet, GSMotorad, your evaluation must be true and valid!



Got any more abstract product and manufacturer "endorsements?'

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Old 07-05-2012, 04:34 PM   #3018
GSMotorrad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
Well, if you saw it on the Internet, GSMotorad, your evaluation must be true and valid!



Got any more abstract product and manufacturer "endorsements?'

Well, strictly from the internet, I can tell you're a douche bag.
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Old 07-05-2012, 04:43 PM   #3019
mr. matteeanne
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Joined: May 2004
Location: Dualsport Paradise, Olympics
Oddometer: 14,273
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSMotorrad View Post
I've been going over the farkling options as well. From my limited (internet) research, the HT stuff looks sort of janky to me. Square tubing is not as refined as SW Motech or GIVI crash bars. I've read how they rub on the plastic and is hard to install. Comes with el-cheapo highway pegs.

SW Motechs all seem to crack in the same place. I've read at least twenty different people with that same crack post here and other forums. Most expensive, and mounts to footpeg holes, and needs a lot of removing of stuff to install. Thickest metal and largest diameter round tubing and new ones are "rubber mounted". Has a spot to mount hwy pegs.

I think I'm going with the GIVI, because it looks like neither of the two attachment points muck with the footpegs (weak point, from what I've read) and even though they're "weaker" than the SWMT, I don't plan on dropping my bike. Doesn't incorporate HWY pegs into its design.

I went with JESSE luggage and racks, instead of the HT stuff. I know from experience my old Jesses were BEASTLY and I don't think I'd be happy with HT. Also, I don't like the name, "Happy Trails" - reminds me of the runway of hair leading towards one's junk. I don't need pubes on my bike.

I have read a lot of bad things about all the available center stands. Most people take them off, after they shear the footpeg bolts, and so you can find 'em on the secondary market.
My last KLR had HT, fine stuff, snap to install. My Vstrom had Givi, I loved the ease to access it, but it was cheesy and cannot be banged out. I sort of have to have a center stand as I ride about 1k a week and it just makes chain maintenance so much easier. Though I am considering another scottoiler.
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Old 07-05-2012, 05:24 PM   #3020
Powderaddict
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Western Colorado
Oddometer: 148
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDog View Post
They may not be discern-able to the naked eye of a KLR noob unless they are aftermarket ones with a brand name stamping or something. Measure them center-of-bolt to center-of-bolt and we can likely tell you if it is lowered.

Btw- what you're measuring are the "dogbones" pictured below (stock).
It's 5 1/2 inches from the middle of one bolt to the middle of the other.

Here's a pic:

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Powderaddict screwed with this post 07-05-2012 at 05:45 PM
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Old 07-05-2012, 05:41 PM   #3021
redog1
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Magalia, CA./ Butte & Siskiyou C.
Oddometer: 1,791
The set up I run and love um'.

Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
A question akin to, "What oil should I use?"

O.K., suggestion: Kenda K270 3.25-21/5.10-17.

Why? Versatile, durable, and . . . INEXPENSIVE!!!!!!!!!

Hey, this IS for a KLR, right?

+1
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Old 07-05-2012, 05:44 PM   #3022
CalicoJack
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Bear Creek Pa (NEPA)
Oddometer: 234
Quote:
Originally Posted by Powderaddict View Post
It's 5 1/2 inches from the middle of one bolt to the middle of the other.

Here's a pic:

Wow those are ugly. They don't even really look safe. Is that just drilled bar stock?
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Old 07-05-2012, 05:50 PM   #3023
Powderaddict
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Location: Western Colorado
Oddometer: 148
Im not sure :( I only picked it up yesterday. Another item to add to the list of things to fix...

Edited: It's definately some kind of do it yourself homemade lowering links job. The forks are an inch and a half lower. Im guessing these would have a similar effect. Im thinking I'll just buy a set that lowers the rear 1.5 inches, and replace the steel bars. I like the height right now, I have short legs. And I just thought the bike sat lower than expected :/
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Powderaddict screwed with this post 07-05-2012 at 06:41 PM
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Old 07-05-2012, 07:29 PM   #3024
beemerjim
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: w mass
Oddometer: 421
Stock links are approx 5" center to center. Every 1/4" longer drops the rear 1", so your bike is lowered 2". I've got 5 1/4" links on mine and it's lowered 1". Lowering links soften the rear suspension considerably too. If you raise the bike 1" you'll notice a difference right away in the firmness. If it's got the stock rear spring, you may find yourself bottoming out on bumps with it lowered 2".
The stock position for the front forks is flush with the top of the triple clamp. What you do to the rear, do to the front.

jim
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Old 07-05-2012, 11:29 PM   #3025
Argentian
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Joined: May 2012
Location: Nelson BC, Canada
Oddometer: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
A question akin to, "What oil should I use?"

O.K., suggestion: Kenda K270 3.25-21/5.10-17.

Why? Versatile, durable, and . . . INEXPENSIVE!!!!!!!!!

Hey, this IS for a KLR, right?

I just put on another set of k270's - Love the price!!! Pretty good in the mud and gravel for a 50/50 tire as well.
Anyone who has some experience with them as well as others find them to increase high speed instability issues (aka "the wobble") ? or are they average in that regard at speed on the highway. By the way, I'm not talking really fast just good highway speed - 110-120 kph (60-70 mph)
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Old 07-06-2012, 01:17 AM   #3026
XDragRacer
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Joined: Mar 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Argentian View Post
Anyone who has some experience with them as well as others find them to increase high speed instability issues (aka "the wobble") ? or are they average in that regard at speed on the highway. By the way, I'm not talking really fast just good highway speed - 110-120 kph (60-70 mph)
No highway stability problems at even greater speeds myself, both on KLR650 and KLR250, spooned on without balancing.

Don't think I'd challenge a sport bike to a race on the twisties with 'em, mainly because of my lack of skill and daring and for my fear of the knobs folding (never actually happened, to me), but--I've found the K270's versatile and effective, 50/50, conservatively ridden on pavement.
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Old 07-06-2012, 03:21 AM   #3027
Sourjon
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Oddometer: 2,051
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSMotorrad View Post
I don't plan on dropping my bike.
Does anybody? Good luck with that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSMotorrad View Post
I don't like the name, "Happy Trails" - reminds me of the runway of hair leading towards one's junk. I don't need pubes on my bike.
WTF!?
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Old 07-06-2012, 05:19 AM   #3028
Gundy
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Philly 'burbs
Oddometer: 880
Another KLX needle question

Thought I would pick the minds of people over here. Asked this on the KLR site, and people seem to love the lean-on-the-verge-of pinging-setups-for-100-degree-Texas-heat-at-elevation setups in order to save mpg.

My riding conditions:
Sea level at year round temps from 35 on up to 90

Mods:
2009
685 kit with stock head
stock filter
snorkel removed
AIS removed
Leo Vince X3 with the hi flow short insert

Current jetting (used the Schnitz instructions as a guideline):
145 main
KLX needle on 3rd clip
Fuel screw at 2.25 turns

Previous jetting with the long, quiet insert:
142.5 main
KLX needle at 2.5 (2nd with shim)
Screw at 2 turns
Ran crisply but maybe a litte anemic at higher rpms

What are you all running?
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Old 07-06-2012, 05:56 AM   #3029
Danger4u2
KX & CR 500 Rider
 
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Joined: Mar 2007
Location: OKC
Oddometer: 592
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSMotorrad View Post
Also, I don't like the name, "Happy Trails" - reminds me of the runway of hair leading towards one's junk. I don't need pubes on my bike.

I have read a lot of bad things about all the available center stands. Most people take them off, after they shear the footpeg bolts, and so you can find 'em on the secondary market.
Inclined, Broken Bowling Ball Sized Rock Strewn Happy Trail was taken. So they just shortened it a little. That's my guess on how they got their name. My nerf bar/foot peg combo from HT is great on my Gen. 1 '07 bike. Yes the foot pegs are cheesy but so are the pegs on your KLR. When I replaced the cheesy KLR pegs I used them in place of the HT pegs. I needed a grinder to "grind and fit". When I installed the nerf bars I had to push down on the top right side to get the bolt thru. After about a year it broke next to the weld, not the weld but the tubing 1/4 inch from the weld. I called and they told me to send them the broken parts and they would send me a replacement. 3 days later UPS was at my door with the replacement. I hadn't taken off the old one yet. The new one fit fine and I shipped out the old. I run Caribou panniers with Pelican cases, sides and top box. The money we saved by cheaping out with a KLR paid for the boxes. http://www.cariboucases.com/store/?name=Home

I run a center stand and yes it has hung me up on some log crossings. It's worth it just for the maintenance aspect.
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Old 07-06-2012, 06:38 AM   #3030
dw8691
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Joined: Sep 2011
Location: communist state of MD
Oddometer: 8
does anyone know what size the exhaust bolts are that connecth the slip on the the sub frame? mine fell off recently (along with the pipe) and they're $1.90 from bandit.
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