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Old 08-05-2012, 08:41 PM   #3496
WARRIORPRINCEJJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bifsteel View Post
Have you checked all the welds on the Motech bars? Friend had one hairline crack ,drove him nuts for 3000miles until we found it.couldn't see it unless your off the bike reving it up.

That was the first thing I went after. I had heard they had a history of that.

Is there any particular weld I should be looking at? I was pretty thorough with my inspection (but still coulda' missed something).


Thanks to all for the help...


.
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Old 08-06-2012, 03:13 AM   #3497
XDragRacer
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Originally Posted by revolut10n View Post
I'm not much of a mechanic, but would be willing to guess it's fuel related and would give it a shot if someone could help point me in the right direction.
No guarantee this is the "right direction," but I'd check 1) Fuel delivery; and 2) Carburetor.

I'd make sure the vacuum-actuated petcock delivered fuel; easiest, fastest, and dirtiest way, I suppose: break fuel line to carburetor, confirm fuel flow when engine turns over, or vacuum otherwise applied to petcock vacuum hose. Since the engine runs normally, sometimes, you might assume the petcock's o.k. and move on to the carburetor.

With fuel flow confirmed (or assumed), I'd drain the carburetor float bowl. A piece of trash may be clogging a jet intermittently, causing your problem; sometimes dumping the residual fuel in the float bowl will purge such a nuisance. Also, moisture collects sometimes in the float bowl, the lowest point in the fuel system. Draining the float bowl can rid the engine of contaminated fuel in this location, replacing it with "righteous" fuel from the tank.

Still have the problem? I think you're about to discover what the carburetor innards look like! I'd drop the carb fuel bowl as a minimum; ideally, remove, disassemble, clean and adjust the carb.

My best effort; others may have better suggestions; good luck!
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Old 08-06-2012, 05:01 AM   #3498
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revolut10n View Post

I'm not much of a mechanic, but would be willing to guess it's fuel related and would give it a shot if someone could help point me in the right direction. After all, this is <1 week after the bike got out of the shop for other issues..
If/when you remove your carb. take the screw out of the choke lever at the handle bar. Push the cable toward the carb. to give it some slack at the carb. Where the cable enters the carb. is made of plastic. Very easy to break.
Be aware, it's easy to tear/separate the rubber boot at the air box when removing the carb.
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:06 AM   #3499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revolut10n View Post

I'm not much of a mechanic, but would be willing to guess it's fuel related and would give it a shot if someone could help point me in the right direction. After all, this is <1 week after the bike got out of the shop for other issues..
I've dealt with this issue a number of times on several KLR's. XDragracer has pointed you in the right direction. In my experience the most likely cause is a petcock that is beginning to fail. Our Ethanol laced fuels wreak havoc on that rubber diaphragm. It can be very intermittent while diagnosing i.e. pull the line, apply vacuum and fuel seems to flow just fine. Also be sure and pull your vacuum to see if fuel has worked its way into that line. If so then you definitely found your problem.

The other thing to look at is your vent line for the carb as well as for the tank. If either is clogged or partially clogged they can give same symptoms. My money is on the petcock...
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:34 AM   #3500
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Originally Posted by Aprilia View Post
My money is on the petcock...

That's the first thing that popped into my head too.
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:41 AM   #3501
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I'd have to agree with this...

"My money is on the petcock..." But I'm not there.
On my 1990 KLR a few times while riding my regular commute (110 miles round trip) I'd be cruising along and within about 10 miles of my destination bike would start backfiring and eventually stall. This was very consistant, whether coming or going from my destination, and always after running 30-40 miles. Searched high and low for an electrical problem, nothing. Became very insecure about taking off on the bike even though I always managed to get to where I was going. This past winter I found a rotted vacum line (main source) going to the little frame mounted liquid/vapor seperator. Bottom line, I was losing vacum which allowed the diaghram on the fuel petcock to close causing a fuel supply problem, I was running out of gas. Repaired that vacum line, haven't had a problem since
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:48 AM   #3502
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+++1 on the fuel starvation theory. Start where XDR stated, and work your way into the carb if needed. Dont be skired, simple, logical process. Good luck!
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:50 AM   #3503
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thanks for the replies. I'll take a stab at looking at the vacuum line > petcock > carb later on in the week when i get some time. Fortunately, I had a brother that's taken his 09s apart less than a month ago. :) I'll be sure to post what it was.
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Old 08-06-2012, 09:49 AM   #3504
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LOW LOW low beam

Low beam is very dim on KLR even with new Silverstar bulb. Bright is good to go,atleast as good as stock KLR light can be.

I cant find anything that could be shorting it out,and both high and low are putting out similar voltage.

I am getting nervous about riding to work in the dark.
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Old 08-06-2012, 10:33 AM   #3505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KneeKicker View Post
Low beam is very dim on KLR even with new Silverstar bulb. Bright is good to go,atleast as good as stock KLR light can be.

I cant find anything that could be shorting it out,and both high and low are putting out similar voltage.

I am getting nervous about riding to work in the dark.
Take a voltage reading at the plug
Then to the frame for ground and on the plug

I'd bet you have a bad ground

tom
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Old 08-06-2012, 11:06 PM   #3506
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Hot cams & KACR ???

I've gathered a nice little pile of engine parts for a 685 massage on the bike...

Among the pile is a set of hot cams, which, besides the promise of a claimed power increase, claims to eliminate the automatic compression release at the end of the exhaust cam. One less mechanical thing to worry about, and I assumed the increased duration would bleed off enough cylinder pressure to help the starter.
Inspecting the cams, though, I found sheet instructions for fitting the kacr on the new exhaust cam. I was thinking about leaving it off anyway, but thought I would check with those in the know.

What say ye? Any experiences?
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Old 08-06-2012, 11:58 PM   #3507
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I was gonna leave mine off too but the ones who know said leave it on, so I did. I guess it is just a bit too much strain on the starter system if you remove it. If you leave it off I would like to hear how things go....
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Old 08-07-2012, 05:00 AM   #3508
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Originally Posted by SkiBumBrian View Post
I was gonna leave mine off too but the ones who know said leave it on, so I did. I guess it is just a bit too much strain on the starter system if you remove it. If you leave it off I would like to hear how things go....
The spring on mine had been broken for I dont know how many miles - 10k possibly? I fixed it when discovered while doing a valve check, but have not noticed difference between when it was broken or fixed. I have run an Oddessy battery for the last 4 years so the starter gets a good charge.

It works for the 1st crank rotation or two and then is disengaged. I do not rate it as critical but nice to have.
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Old 08-07-2012, 06:38 AM   #3509
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Personally, I think you'd be fine if you stay with a stock compression ratio.
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Old 08-07-2012, 06:52 AM   #3510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsotsie View Post
The spring on mine had been broken for I dont know how many miles - 10k possibly? I fixed it when discovered while doing a valve check, but have not noticed difference between when it was broken or fixed. I have run an Oddessy battery for the last 4 years so the starter gets a good charge.

It works for the 1st crank rotation or two and then is disengaged. I do not rate it as critical but nice to have.
I wasnt so much worries about CCA's but starter gearing, etc. You are probably right but I have never had a problem with the KACR, if I did I am sure I would have no problem ditching it...
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