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Old 08-28-2012, 04:59 AM   #3721
Tsotsie
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: South Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paultrue21 View Post
Hey guys,
New here, was turned on to this site by the man I am buying my 04 KLR from. With any luck will pick it up Friday night or Saturday morning. I am so excited and am planning a small road trip for the Labor Day weekend. I am in
New Mexico and so far I am really loving the site. Thanks to all you guys that keep things interesting.
Paul

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Old 08-28-2012, 05:39 AM   #3722
enz0
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thanks Tsotsie, 40K on the bike now but in km which is probably about reasonable for an engine freshen up, just a 685 no head work no vavles or cams? nice.
There isn't an advatage to the bigger big bores? I'm not sure how bad the cylinder is so I was thinking the sleeve may be an option but I imagine my lack of mechanical skill is showing
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Old 08-28-2012, 06:08 AM   #3723
Aprilia
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Location: Flagstaff, AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enz0 View Post
thanks Tsotsie, 40K on the bike now but in km which is probably about reasonable for an engine freshen up, just a 685 no head work no vavles or cams? nice.
There isn't an advatage to the bigger big bores? I'm not sure how bad the cylinder is so I was thinking the sleeve may be an option but I imagine my lack of mechanical skill is showing
705 kit takes some machine work to get it to fit into the stock cylinder. If you go that route then additional monies should be spent on headwork. From basic cleaning up to improve flow to oversized valves. The 658, 685 and 688 are simple swap overs. Another difference is the 658 and 705 pistons are both lighter than the 685 &688 thus reducing vibration even further, however, just going to the 685 & 688 offers a reduction in vibration from stock. I think the 658 is underrated. You'd have to have an awfully well calibrated butt dyno to feel the performance improvement with either 685 or 688 kits over the 658. 705 along with head work? Your neighbor kid could tell somethings up!
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:16 AM   #3724
SCQTT
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Joined: May 2005
Location: Mike's Sky Rancho
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Working on rebuilding / light restoration of a 90 KLR650 B Tengai.

A friend is doing the dohicky & valve adjustment and discovered my valve cover is cracked and has been repaired with some sort of epoxy.

Looking online at P/Ns I was not surprised that the Tengai valve cover is no longer avaiable.....Their engines are painted a different color. However I was surprised to find that the 1990 KLRs valvle covers are also disco-ed....and the the P/N has changed many times for this part of over the years. It does look like they all take the same gasket however.

Do any of you know if they are all interchangable? Why the change, is this cracking normal?
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:22 AM   #3725
yokesman
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Oddometer: 460
Enzo
Start 35 HP
1. 688 37.5HP
2. Carb work via KLX needle kit 39HP
3. Head stage 1 vs stage 2 (diff in price and performance 41.5HP)
4. Oversize Valves 42.5HP
5. FMF Q4 and power bomb 43HP
6. Airbox mods 43.3HP
Removing Cal Mods 43.5HP
End 43.5

The 688 is a piston designed for the KLR rather than a race piston adapted to the purpose as in the 685. At least that's my understanding of it.....
This means longer piston skirt, best rings for longevity etc.

Scqatt welding will fix that if a replacement is not found, do it on the inside and finish the out side...
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:38 AM   #3726
serangelc
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Medellín, Colombia
Oddometer: 22
Hello everyone!

A little more than a month ago, I bought a 2010 KLR with a few miles on it. It came with heatable grips and crashbars.

As I bought the bike for commuting as well as for various-term trips, I'm thinking about getting a top case for urban riding, and panniers for the tripping part.

I'd like to ask you guys if any of you has had any trouble with large top cases (>40 liters) when fully loaded. Such as seeing the top case on the road moving by itself, after getting a bump, or feeling some sort of loss of stability when leaning the bike in a curve... Any tips?

Thanks for your help.

Greetings from Medellín, Colombia!
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Old 08-28-2012, 12:28 PM   #3727
CA Stu
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Location: Riverside, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCQTT View Post

Do any of you know if they are all interchangable? Why the change, is this cracking normal?
I'm 99.9% sure they are all interchangeable from 87-07.
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Old 08-28-2012, 01:47 PM   #3728
SCQTT
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Originally Posted by CA Stu View Post
I'm 99.9% sure they are all interchangeable from 87-07.


Thanks man.
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Old 08-28-2012, 02:31 PM   #3729
Aprilia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CA Stu View Post
I'm 99.9% sure they are all interchangeable from 87-07.
I believe there was a change in 96 but can't remember what/why. I know they are interchangeable regardless...
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Old 08-28-2012, 04:49 PM   #3730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aprilia View Post
I believe there was a change in 96 but can't remember what/why. I know they are interchangeable regardless...
From the KLR FAQ:

"How has the KLR650 changed over the years?
No one will ever accuse Kawasaki of applying kaizen to the KLR production line. Aside from the paint job, not much has changed since it was introduced in 1987. The key mechanical differences are (per Eldon Carl):

1987: Crankshaft is unique to this year.
1988: Beefed up the engine cases with extra bolts between the crank and countershaft; crank has a different part number, and may be lighter.
1990: Countershaft improved with longer splines for increased engagement with sprocket.
1992: Changes to front brake master cylinder.
Mid-1996: Changed valve cover, added bracket to hold cam chain bumper; changed crank to heavier unit; improved clutch basket with more clutch plates; changed countershaft sprocket retainer from slotted plate to large nut; changed 2nd and 3rd gear ratios. Kickstarter no longer fits with new clutch basket. New left balancer weight/sprocket begins with engine #KLE650AE032206.
(?) Service manual indicates higher charging system output; only part number change is the rotor. The new power rating is 17A/14V (238 W) @ 7000 rpm; the earlier one was 14A/14V (196 W) @ 8000 rpm (yes, above redline).
2001(?) Assembly shifts from Japan to Thailand. Hard to say if there are any quality issues, as the parts still seem to be manufactured in Japan.
2007: New shift lever"

That only reflects changes through 2007, of course.

Ruh roh, looks like the valve cover is different from 96 and newer..
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Old 08-28-2012, 05:08 PM   #3731
Rode2Nowhere
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Location: Stillwater (next to Saratoga), NY
Oddometer: 2,170
Sorry. Semi-hijack:

Quote:
Originally Posted by CA Stu View Post
From the KLR FAQ:

"How has the KLR650 changed over the years?
No one will ever accuse Kawasaki of applying kaizen to the KLR production line. Aside from the paint job, not much has changed since it was introduced in 1987. The key mechanical differences are (per Eldon Carl):

1987: Crankshaft is unique to this year.
1988: Beefed up the engine cases with extra bolts between the crank and countershaft; crank has a different part number, and may be lighter.
1990: Countershaft improved with longer splines for increased engagement with sprocket.
1992: Changes to front brake master cylinder.
Mid-1996: Changed valve cover, added bracket to hold cam chain bumper; changed crank to heavier unit; improved clutch basket with more clutch plates; changed countershaft sprocket retainer from slotted plate to large nut; changed 2nd and 3rd gear ratios. Kickstarter no longer fits with new clutch basket. New left balancer weight/sprocket begins with engine #KLE650AE032206.
(?) Service manual indicates higher charging system output; only part number change is the rotor. The new power rating is 17A/14V (238 W) @ 7000 rpm; the earlier one was 14A/14V (196 W) @ 8000 rpm (yes, above redline).
2001(?) Assembly shifts from Japan to Thailand. Hard to say if there are any quality issues, as the parts still seem to be manufactured in Japan.
2007: New shift lever"

That only reflects changes through 2007, of course.

Ruh roh, looks like the valve cover is different from 96 and newer..
Anyone know if this was intended to decrease vibration vs. previous years? I swear my '88 vibrates more than I remember my '03 vibrating, at similar mileages.
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Old 08-28-2012, 05:46 PM   #3732
Simple.
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Location: Troy, MI
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My 2012 with 1500 miles smells like coolant when I fire it up. Also see some dried coolant residue on the front down tube, and under the right fairing. (not coming from the engine) I have not investigated it yet, but I was wondering if this was a common problem? I'll take it to the dealer because its under warranty still, but if its just a clamp or something stupid i'd rather just fix it myself to avoid leaving it for who knows how long at the dealer.

Jon
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Old 08-28-2012, 05:52 PM   #3733
the kawasaki kid
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I want a KLR so bad... This thread is only making things worse.
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I tossed her in a gas station garbage can,fuckin hoe.
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Old 08-28-2012, 05:54 PM   #3734
paultrue21
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The fever...

Quote:
Originally Posted by the kawasaki kid View Post
I want a KLR so bad... This thread is only making things worse.
You got the fever. I got it too, I get my KLR this Friday. I am so excited. Buying a 2004 in mint conditions, alot of extras. It is like a dream come true.
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:37 PM   #3735
beechhunter
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Location: Vienna, GA
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Georgia to Prudhoe Bay? KLR?

A little background on my riding experience. Most recently I have owned a 2008 KLR, bought in June or so of 2008. I did some light farkleing and rode the bike 11,000 miles in one year. It did not burn oil, at any speed, but the blinkers did fall off. I mainly commuted on the KLR and the few trips I did take were never more than 300 miles in a day. I sold the KLR to purchase a 2004 BMW GSA for 2 up traveling. My wife and I put about 15,000 miles on that bike and then decided to start a family. Sold the GSA. My longest day on the GS was from Key West back to my home in GA. Only stopping for gas, solo. 690 miles according to google. No sweat on the GS.

Well 2 years of no riding has passed and I couldn't take it anymore. A new to me 2008 KLR.
[IMG][/IMG]


So on to the inquiry. My brother and I planned on doing the TAT next summer on our KLRs but we have invited our dad.
Us: Dad, do you want to go?
Dad: Sure, but lets go to Alaska instead.
Us. OK.
The stage is set. We all have 5 weeks off next summer to travel from GA to AK and back.

I feel once we hit the "good parts" of the trip the KLR will shine,but I am skeptical about riding the KLR that far. Mainly because of the speeds we will need to travel just to get there. My first KLR was not an interstate machine. Lots of vibs and not much left after 75mph. Changing the seat is a given on any bike, for me at least. My day long saddle was awesome. We plan to make 500-700 mile days for the first few days until we get to the good stuff. We have all traveled extensively in the eastern and mid-western US. No need to repeat that boredom. We have not ruled out trailering the bikes to a point and then starting our trip.

So, should we sell the KLRs and get something else, or man the F up and just go?

Any advice or links to RR with KLRs in AK would be greatly appreciated.
PS. According to google it is 4879 miles from our home to Prudhoe Bay. A very very long way to ride a motorbike.
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