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Old 08-31-2012, 07:05 PM   #3781
SteelB12
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Location: Prince William County, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simple. View Post
My 2012 with 1500 miles smells like coolant when I fire it up. Also see some dried coolant residue on the front down tube, and under the right fairing. (not coming from the engine) I have not investigated it yet, but I was wondering if this was a common problem? I'll take it to the dealer because its under warranty still, but if its just a clamp or something stupid i'd rather just fix it myself to avoid leaving it for who knows how long at the dealer.

Jon
Every so often I notice that smell from my 09 and see a little bit of green on the skid plate. Its been awhile since this first started and I just can't seem to tell where it is coming from. The overflow bottle is still at an acceptable level, so I guess its not that bad. I suppose I should look a little better one of these days.
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Old 08-31-2012, 08:50 PM   #3782
Adiventure
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Well, I tried most of the above to no luck. Ended up finding a shop that went at it for half an hour with a hammer and punch and only got as far as screwing a screw into the bolt remains. Seems like it will hold for the near future, and when I get around some tools I'll see about a real fix. I would have been annoyed but they did it on the house (late on a Friday three day weekend).

Now when I do actually grind it off, do I need to track down a barrel/nut the same height as stock?
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Old 09-01-2012, 10:08 AM   #3783
kckeeny
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Crash bars on the 08 were rattling where they join in the front. I so thought it was engine (bad) noise. Just discovered that it was the crash bars so ...Pulled the bars and used KLR approved electric tape on the joining part. No more rattle.... From there. Now I'll work on the dash rattle.
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Old 09-01-2012, 09:13 PM   #3784
SkiBumBrian
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Originally Posted by redog1 View Post
...on my 1990. Ground the remaining bolt down flush, carefully drilled it oversized and welded a new nut on, reinstalled the sheild. No problem since.
Like you and CycleDog I agree that is an ideal scenario... I busted mine off when I replaced it with an 08 headpipe, I figured, so what, aint using it. Since I have installed an AF headpipe and kinda forgot about a shield...... Always thought about what I would do and my first inclination was to just drill the existing bolt out and tap a size bigger, wouldn't that work?
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Old 09-01-2012, 11:04 PM   #3785
XDragRacer
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Originally Posted by SkiBumBrian View Post
Always thought about what I would do and my first inclination was to just drill the existing bolt out and tap a size bigger, wouldn't that work?
Worked for me (on another threaded hole on KLR); even used small drill bit and same-size tap. Better to go bigger, but thought--if this pulls out, I'm no worse off; THEN I'll go bigger!
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Old 09-02-2012, 07:40 AM   #3786
Danger4u2
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Grind it off and mig weld a stainless steel nut in it's place. It just needs a tack on each side.
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Old 09-02-2012, 02:35 PM   #3787
McJamie
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Location: Courtice, Ontario, Canada
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So I came close to buying a KLR a few years back, when they updated it. I bought a VStrom instead. Which I loved. Sold it this year, because I wasn't using it. I have a 250 Sherpa that will go where I want, but it's a little bike with a little gas tank, not really good for 2-up stuff. The VStrom was brilliant 2-up, I've ridden an older KLR by myself, how would it compare to the new ones, and do they work fine with a passenger and luggage?
And have you seen the 2013's? I think the best looking graphics they have done yet.
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Old 09-02-2012, 06:32 PM   #3788
redog1
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Thumb Yep, would work fine, but you know that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiBumBrian View Post
Like you and CycleDog I agree that is an ideal scenario... I busted mine off when I replaced it with an 08 headpipe, I figured, so what, aint using it. Since I have installed an AF headpipe and kinda forgot about a shield...... Always thought about what I would do and my first inclination was to just drill the existing bolt out and tap a size bigger, wouldn't that work?
.

I noticed you didn't have the sheild. You could always do header pipe wrap also, On your bike, That would look pretty good also. IMHO.
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Old 09-03-2012, 12:42 PM   #3789
Hessian42
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10,000 mile capable KLR tires share what you got!
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Old 09-03-2012, 01:19 PM   #3790
redog1
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Kenda K270's

Getting right at 9K front and rear primarily highway miles running at 30-35 psi. Very happy with them. Road worthy and plenty capable if I hit the trails on this bike.
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Old 09-03-2012, 05:16 PM   #3791
jeepsandbikes
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i got a used one for cheap , the shipping might be $$ cause im in canada
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adiventure View Post
Seems like someone done fuck up, possibly me, but I'm not pointing fingers.

How would one go about fixing this problem?



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Old 09-03-2012, 05:26 PM   #3792
Blackheart58
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Originally Posted by Hessian42 View Post
10,000 mile capable KLR tires share what you got!
MAYBE the Heidenau? I'm trying one on the back...only about 500 miles so far, but, I can't detect any wear, yet!
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Old 09-03-2012, 05:36 PM   #3793
Yokomo
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Originally Posted by Blackheart58 View Post
MAYBE the Heidenau? I'm trying one on the back...only about 500 miles so far, but, I can't detect any wear, yet!
Well I would hope not!
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Old 09-03-2012, 06:52 PM   #3794
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Originally Posted by Blackheart58 View Post
MAYBE the Heidenau? I'm trying one on the back...only about 500 miles so far, but, I can't detect any wear, yet!
A local buddy with an F800GS had a 10,000 mile K60 on his bike yesterday, said he loved it. I have a feeling it will be my next tire. It's twice as much as the Shinko 705, but I bet I get twice as much wear, and it is possibly a little better off road. Heck, even if they act the same, cost exactly twice as much and I only get exactly twice the mileage, it'll be nice not changing the tire every 4000 miles.
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Old 09-03-2012, 09:13 PM   #3795
XDragRacer
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Originally Posted by Adiventure View Post
Well, I tried most of the above to no luck.
Just a suggestion, replace the hex-head machine screws holding the heat shield with hex-socket (Allen head) bolts. More torque available for loosening with a hex key; less likelihood of snapping off the bolt head.
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